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Everything posted by directordanw

  1. Thanks as always guys, although I'm no closer to deciding what to do. I think I'll clean it up and repaint it, fit new u joints and then have another think about getting it balanced. Like I say it is already dotted with little metal plates so it has been balanced, and my Elite does have the vibration isolator weight mounted on the gearbox so some thought has got into this matter in the past. Hmmmm...
  2. And so the rear suspension rebuild progresses, and yesterday I slid the prop shaft out with a view to changing the u joints. They feel pretty solid but for the few quid they cost it seem crazy not to do everything while the shaft is out. And this 'everything' got me to thinking about balancing the shaft, the barrel is dotted with little metal plates welded on, these must be the weights from its original balancing. The shaft itself doesn't telescope - which I'd assumed it would - and there's a rubber seal between the two barrels that looks suspiciously cracked. And given the fact that new u/js will theoretically upset the original balance I reckon the whole thing needs a professional eye so I'm wondering if anyone has had theirs serviced, who by and how much I'm looking at. Although as we know that's not a consideration cos we all just pay anyway! Any recommendations gratefully received.
  3. Took my Riviera up to 110 one time. It was amazing. Until I remembered the car was made of plastic. And that I'd built it!
  4. It was me, although I doubt I'm the first. Amazing how much easier things are when you're not lying on your back under a ton of precariously perched car trying to reach something that was installed by somebody with four elbows!
  5. Hi Ant, any joy yet? And any closer to discovering if the S2 and S1 were a slightly different shape in this area? As far as the 52mm spanner was concerned I just clamped the flat sides of the large washer in the vice and removed the nut from the rear. But I had managed to remove the whole unit in the first place..!
  6. If I have to I will but I've had a rebuild kit sitting on my shelf for a while so I'm going to have a look at them first. Any money I can save is money I can spend elsewhere. In truth of course any money I save is money I will be spending elsewhere. Or already have spent elsewhere. But it helps me pretend this process won't bankrupt me!
  7. Thanks guys, and I'm going to email Andy and find out if he can tell me anything about it. I remember him mentioning something about serial numbers starting D - but that might just have been that all diff serial numbers start with a D. Weather not so inviting today so I'm going to spend a bit of time at the bench cleaning up these fellas.
  8. I was hoping someone might be able to fill me in on this breather because I'm convinced my S2 Eclat didn't have one. And the only picture I can find of a diff is from the parts manual - which shows an S1 differential. I had always assumed they were the same, all the other components are but perhaps it's a ratio thing. When this Elite came off the production line (the 2nd S2, the first publicly sold!) it was an automatic. It was then returned to the factory and recommissioned as a manual car, with a new VIN. However the Lotus archive has no record whether the diff was changed from the lower automatic ratio to the standard manual Elite one when the switch was done. I'm hoping with the serial number now Andy at the archives can give me a bit more info.
  9. First time the diff has been off to my knowledge. There's been some work on the suspension - mainly removing bits the PO didn't think important from what I can tell! - but most of it has been just waiting there for me since 1981. The back plates look bad but they're solid. Nothing a bit of rust converter and some epoxy paint won't cure!
  10. Maybe it was my confidence yesterday that's messed me up but today the diff has thrown up a couple of snags that I would welcome any and all advice to solve. First up the drain plug is completely rounded off and before I start going at it with a drill I'd love to know if any one has any tips for getting it out. I don't mind mangling it, I have a new one standing by. And secondly one of the bottom studs won't shift at all - I've had to cut off every component to get this far, everything is welded on with rust. Once again, any thoughts welcome! On the plus side a first degrease has made the diff look much less sorry and I've got the brake cylinders off for a clean and rebuild - they were manky! New gasket, a coat of paint and some fresh oil and it'll look good as new. If I can solve these two issues...
  11. And it's out! Despite all the warnings - or perhaps because of all the advice on the site! - the differential floated down from its home supported by a transmission jack that I picked up off eBay for a song. It really made to job easy (yes, I said easy!), the only slight hold up was when I discovered rather than just strapping the diff to the jack I'd managed to strap it to most of the chassis - and then couldn't work out why it wouldn't lower. Doh! The jack was seriously a godsend however, it's now living in North London if anyone wants to borrow. Pictures to follow but I'm still struggling to upload them! Is there a limit on the site?
  12. Fresh from the oven, get 'em while they're hot!
  13. There were some surprising components the PO had used in a previous rebuild - any number of different washers, bits of commoner pipe fitting as spacers, no reinforcing bracket at all on the near side radius arm. But it all meant I had less remorse taking the grinder to any stubborn bits. (There are loads more photos but for some reason my phone will only let me upload some - any ideas?) Everything not being replaced is now getting cleaned up, derusted and repainted before refitting I do sometimes wonder why freshly painted components that no one will ever see still please me so much!
  14. Another year has shot past since I last posted about my restoration. That's cos another year has shot past since I've got anywhere near the car. But now I've got three months before I disappear off for work again and I'm really going to make some progress this time. Hopefully! First up a complete suspension rebuild - new springs, shocks, bolts, bushes, everything. Well if I'm going to work most of the year I need to waste it on something in my time off... Back end first. And apart from the odd stuck nut it all came apart pretty easily. The original Lotus shocks were very intelligently fitted with two nuts on the top so you can avoid the nightmare of the shock shaft just spinning while trying to remove it by double nutting the two nuts off. This also helps slowly release the spring tension although access is good at the back so it's pretty easy to get spring compressors in.
  15. That's an interesting thought, but the originals (somewhere under the surface rust!) were certainly painted so I was going to use black calliper paint. I have just cleaned up the insides but left the bare metal for a good friction surface.
  16. Hi Ant, I don't get that at all! Once the radius arms were off I could get a socket on both of the bolts that mount the bush to the chassis. I think I'm out of useful advice now, sorry! Dan
  17. Are you any further forward? I'll be back under there today and haven't refitted anything yet so I'll grab some photos of how all mine came apart.
  18. That's exactly what I'm saying. Two bolts with spring washers. And on one side of mine not even the reinforcing plate - my PO liked to live dangerously, other components offered as alternative suspension solutions include bits of copper central heating fitting as spacers. Once the bush is off there's just a big hole in the side of the chassis through to the prop shaft.
  19. I did this very job last week. You shouldn't have to remove the long stud before shifting the whole assembly. Those two bolts on the reinforcing plate do indeed go to captive nuts - fortunately mine came off very easily - then the entire assembly lifts out; stud, rubber and all. Then you can use your 52mm spanner on the bench. In order to get the radius arms off the stud while still on the chassis I found it was vital to jack the arm up so the stud was horizontal. Then wrap two hands round the radius arm and tug...and hope your axle stands are securely positioned!
  20. That would probably work - just paint the whole lot in calliper paint, diff, back plates and drums. The mess so far... I wasn't going any where near the radius arms or hubs, just a clean up for them. But I would think the rear links and driveshafts should be OK. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong!
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