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directordanw

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Everything posted by directordanw

  1. So today's the day I'm dropping the diff, and so far it's been boringly easy. But there's plenty more time for surprises. Looking at the diff it's really manky, peeling paint and rust on the frame and needs a good clean up. The rest of the suspension components I'm going to shot blast and paint with epoxy mastic but I was wondering what people had used to paint the diff and brake drums. The epoxy is only good up to 100 degrees and the diff must get quite hot. i will post photos of the diff coming out. Hopefully!
  2. As the actress said to the bishop... I'll give it a go tomorrow. Cheers.
  3. Morning all, in the process of rebuilding the rear suspension SO I'm having to drop the diff (which has been painless enough so far, although the propshaft to output flange bolts might be going to get their own thread..!) SO I am cutting the suggested holes behind the the rear seats including the trapezoid to reach the handbrake compensator SO I need to remove the transmission tunnel cover. And this is where I'm stuck. How does the handbrake come out of it's leather gaiter without trashing it? Does the black plastic grip slide off? Mine won't budge at all. Would a heat gun help to soften the grip? The diff is supposed to be a PITA but it's not supposed to be this bit!
  4. If there's petrol leaking from the bottom of the carb there are two rubber gaskets under there around the accelerator jet assembly. I had a wrinkle in one and it was flooding petrol - very easily, and cheaply replaced.
  5. I think I've got a pair among my spares but I couldn't tell you if they're PAS or not. Let me know if you're still interested and I'll try and grab a photo for you at the weekend.
  6. That would be amazing on both counts - although I would prefer a new frame in black not chrome. Please do PM with a price when you get one. Otherwise I would love to get your old one off you - I'm trying to save money where I can!
  7. Evening all. Just stripping down the bonnet of the Elite for painting and when I was popping the metal frame out it fell apart in my hands. Years of living in a field had taken their toll. So I realise it's unlikely that anyone just has the frame lying around but if they do please let me know. Failing that a bonnet, any colour, any condition but with a solid frame would be great. It's at this point that I regret the spare bonnet I used to have going for 99p on eBay...
  8. So as to eliminate any kind of future error I've been all over the internet tonight researching and there's one topic on which there seems to be a wide variety of opinion - namely how hard to push the feeler gauge in. Some say stop at the first gauge that feels snug others to push against the resistance until one just won't squeeze in. So, what's the opinion of the forum?
  9. Everything fits beautifully. Except it doesn't... Beaten by the light now. I'll dry fit the old shims tomorrow and check my calculations again. I guess it's not impossible that if a PO hadn't properly torqued the cam carriers then the spring pressure would have widened all the clearances. And so now all my new shims are too fat. I didn't cheque the torque before I took it apart.
  10. I measured flat across the middle of the shim with callipers, and from all sides. I can see that might make a difference but not to this extent surely? It makes no sense, even if an original exhaust clearance was .017" - meaning it's .005 over - then a new shim allowing for this discrepancy can't have completely filled the gap. It's not scientifically possible. Which leaves human error... I don't believe I can have measured them ALL wrong so I must be doing something in the reassembly.
  11. Hello all, just checking the valve clearances and all of them were quite loose so I've done all my A=(B-C)+D and got new shims. And now when I dry fit the cam carriers I've got no clearance at the heel at all. None. And it's not a question of badly ordered shims, I've been back and checked them all. What am I missing? What have I forgotten to do?! Or am I going to have to refit the old shims, recheck the clearances and start again?
  12. It's M6 - it is indeed a 10mm nut. I managed to replace the two broken studs with a bit of threaded rod cut to length. On to the next problem, how in God's name does one get a spanner to the PAS pump adjuster? I've tried from every direction! Help please.
  13. Planning to refit the tailgate today but had forgotten that a number of the hinge studs had sheared during removal and the rest are all pretty grotty. So, does anyone happen to know the size of the stud? Is it an M8? I'm hoping it's something pretty stock so I can create my own.
  14. And because of the breather pipe on the filler neck they then have to be twisted to slide them out. There is a notch in the bodywork under the grommet that is cut specifically for this. I found it easiest to unclip the grommet from the body on the outside then guide the neck through from the inside. If that makes sense...
  15. I can't get the whole of a 10mm ratchet spanner round it. I've been thinking about an open-ended ratchet spanner but it's mean investing in a set (more tools, what a hardship!). Does anyone know if they're any good? I struggle to get my head round how they work!
  16. So, it's been a very long while since I've had a chance to think about the Elite - real life really does get in the way! - but today the sun was shining and I had nothing better to do so I thought it was high time to pick up for 2016. The Eclat Riviera has been sold, very satisfactorily, and I'll be driving it to Austria to its new owner in the next couple of weeks. I'll be sure to post any photos and stories along the way. So, the Elite. I'd already changed the cam belt and removed the a/c and was planning to pull the water pump today to check it out, clean it and maybe recondition it. All going well, but then I discover the fourth bolt which is half hidden behind the distributor toothed wheel. It's a 10mm like all the others but I can't seem to get anything to it at any angle. Socket won't fit, too tight for a ratchet spanner and an open ended spanner doesn't give me enough room to start it turning. What's the secret? Without pulling off the cam belt again... Please don't tell me I have to do the cam belt again..!
  17. Take a look at this link: //wiki.seloc.org/a/Paint_codes It doesn't show the individual colours but the codes are certainly still the same for my Elite and Eclat.
  18. I've got a pair of calipers that I can let you have, not in great shape but yours for not much more than the postage. PM me if you're interested. Dan
  19. And I'm not far into my Elite project but as it's an S2 I won't be lifting the body off. I'll do the basics first to get it through the MOT and then start on the fine detail. They are fun cars to work in. They're even more fun to drive.
  20. And although it's not going to be cheap the sad truth is there have been so many of these amazing cars broken for parts that, with a bit of patience, you can always find that one bit you need for less than you'd expect. And this forum is a fabulous resource, both for great advice and the odd spare part too.
  21. There's a rubber O ring on the barrel that houses the shaft going into the side of the box. You'll get some oil leaking out when you remove it but not much if the car's level.
  22. As long as this wheel is kept lubricated then it will prolong cable life. I discovered, to my cost, that wear and tear is mainly due to the cable running over the plastic. If the wheel is spinning freely then the problem is (theoretically) eliminated.
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