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Lasse

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About Lasse

  • Rank
    L
  • Birthday 30/10/1964

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  • Name
    Lasse
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit Turbo SE
  1. Fantastic! Very clear and nice pictures! I've checked with the depiction in the manual, and it looks right (obviously AP knows how to put the stuff together). Really nice that you could make the effort! Thanks a million. BR //L
  2. The function of the pins and spring clips are to regulate the gap around the outer disc so it doesn't expand too much (decreasing the gap around the inner friction disc with the potential making it not release). The idea is that the clips, which can slide only in one direction on the pins, is that as the outer friction disc wears, the clips will move on the pins to maintain proper opening of the clutch around the outer disc. This is the reason why Lotus require (not recommend) the pins & clips to be replaced when the pack has been disassembled. I don't know, but to me it seems impossible to remove the pins from the intermediate disc without destroying the clips (they have to be cut because they lock the pins and can not be withdrawn in the "wrong" direction). They also need to be changed when friction discs are changed because the clips will produce "markings" in the pins so that they will not move correctly (rather in steps) on the pins the second time around which can cause the intermediate disc to move so it becomes not parallel. It is imperative that the intermediate disc is parallel with everything else. If not, drag may occur. BR //L
  3. Now I have also found out that the intermediate pressure plate (the one between the two friction discs) have been replaced (old invoice from S J Sportscars). We have done some testing on the clutch release function. The outer disc release well (opens until the spring clips stops further widening) but there seem to be problem with relese on the inner disc. Could this be caused by the blade springs mounted on the intermediate plate, whose function I would presume would be to push the whole moving pack away from the inner disc. I would guess if these springs are not strong enough that the pack will not move as required, inhibiting the release of the inner disc. Is there any experience that anyone could share? Best Regards /L
  4. The thing is that I have no history what so ever on what work has been done on the clutch earlier, mabye the discs aren't even the Lotus/AP original part... At the moment they are mounted exactly as depicted in the manual, which in this case also means that the markings are reversed. BR //L
  5. Pictures would be nice. I ask for this confirmation because one of the problems I have is that the marking of the outer friction plate is contradictory to how it is depicted in the manual. I.e. if I fit it according to the marking (flywheel side/bearing side) it will be fitted the wrong way round according to the depiction in the manual. Having been working on Lotuses for over 10 years now I don't find such circumstances strange - they're more sort of typical BR //L
  6. If I'm remebering correctly all clutch parts BUT the friction plates has this paint marking. Unfortunatly the marking doesn't help to mount the friction discs in the right position nor with correct orientation. Can anyone verify that the depiction of the friction discs in the service manual is correct i.e. it depicts the actual discs in correct position and orientation? BR // Lasse
  7. Hello Günter, interesting information since it seem possible that the friction plates may have been refurbished based on the fact they look brand new even though the clutch travelled probably 50.000km or so. Next step will be to pull the tranny once again, this time ALL pieces will end up on my measurement table and be thorougly measured and examined. Service kit (pins and clips) will also be purchased for excange. Whish me luck... I will report back on sollution and result... Please keep posting interesting causes and similar cases with known solutions. Best Regards to you all/ Lasse
  8. Hi all you guys! Thanks a million for all the replies and your devotion to the subject. I will most certainly look into all the possible causes that has been presented here. I've also learned that there is a known problem on very early clutches (which this is) with a possible contact between friction disc periphery and the six steel wear plates on the cover housing. Marcus3, Yes, I will again measure the thickness and other properties, but the clutch definitely doesn't look worn out. I agree that a worn-out clutch could produce this problem if it is related to the release mechanism going bad, but the wear in itself doesn't increase the drag. It will however produce clutch-slip once the friction plates are worn down to the rivets or the slave cylinder will bottom out so the clutch can't engage anymore... Again, thanks for all the useful input to the further investigation so far... Best Regards /Lasse
  9. Yes, the gearbox was completely removed from the car. Splines on the input shaft looked ok. //L
  10. Hello Freshcut, The disks were inspected a couple of weeks ago during an attempt to solve this problem. They were, as mentioned above, only inspected visually, but they looked as new. And yes, gearbox oil is planned to be changed in the near future. Best Regards /Lasse
  11. It's old and due for change... But that should not affect this problem? Conditions for selecting gears when car stands still: Secondary shaft stands still because wheels stands still --> Primary shaft needs to stand still to engage any gear. If primary shaft is moving it is because clutch is not fully disengaged and this means that the synchros need to brake movement to "0" before any gear can be selected. If the drag from the clutch is to great, the friction force in the synchros will not be big enough to stop the primary, which is why reverse can ot be selected at all... So yes, if the oil lost all its friction properties, I would presume that even a very small drag from the clutch can produce a problem. However, normally the clutch should disengage to such a degree that the primary axis doesn't rotate even without the help of synchros. I mean, this is how it works on all the older cars without synchromesh on reverse, working properly they will never produce gear-teeth noise when engaging reverse indicating primary axix actually standing still (="0" Clutch drag). Is the twin-plate clutch on the V8 different in this respect? Is this mabye the reason for having synchro-mesh on reverse gear? Best Regards, Lasse
  12. Hi guys, i see that there is basically kilometers of text written about twin-clutch problems. I would like this thread to focus on possible causes for clutch drag caused by the clutch pack itself (not bad working hydraulics) The car is a 96 MY Esprit V8 with retrofitted twin plate clutch (work probably done back in the 90's, lacking documentation), travel approx. 30000 miles. The following is the nature of the problem: 1. Impossible to get reverse in with engine running. Hard to get other gears in as well (indicating clutch is not disengaged fully). Absolutely no problem to engage any gear when engine off. 2. Hydraulics have been fully re-furbished not long ago. Clutch line has been successfully bled. Pedal will respond nice and distinctly within a cm or so of travel. 3. Pedal travel set to 90-95mm according to manual. However, ability to select gears did not improve if the travel was increased (tested with "full travel" well in excess of 120mm with no noticable improvment). 4. Engagement point under load (gear in, point of engagement to get car moving) is approx. 30-40mm under pedal up-stop indicating good function of hudraulics and mabye also release mechanism in the clutch pack. 5. No noise under load or else indicating bad release bearring etc. 6. Friction discs inspected (not measured for flatness) - looks almost unused. And still there is drag... Anyone with knowledege of possible causes? Best Regards/ Lasse, Sweden
  13. Hello Nigel! The O2 sensor has nothing to do with your starting problem. The O2 sensor becomes active after the engine has started and will then control fuel/air ratio. During start-up the ECM uses only some primary sensor values like crank position, temperature and baro-pressure together with it's pre-programmed data tables to get the engine running. Best Regards/ LasseW
  14. "Somebody" gave me a hint that the tension should probably be around 160 lb. Does this sound familiar to anyone? //Lasse
  15. Hi all! I'm wondering if anybody could tell me what what the tension that produces 95-120Hz corresponds to in lb so that I could check the belt tension using a Burroughs gauge instead. Best Regards/ Lasse
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