Tim Jones

After probably 10 years of non-use in the dark, the dash light rheostat on my Eclat is completely siezed up. Any reason why I couldn't give it a quick squirt of WD40 down the shaft to see what happens? TIA

Cheers guys. Why the 10? Fair question. No reason. I have some Xmas money burning a hole in my pocket, the existing conditioner doesn't seem to cut the mustard (the battery is relatively new) and I thought the 10 might have something the 5 didn't and perhaps it was time to push the boat out. As for why CTEK, again, no coherent response other than I'd tried a cheaper brand and it never did that much for me. If I left the car on the conditioner for a few weeks, it was very sluggish and needed a conventional overnight charge.

Afternoon all - I'm looking to replace my battery conditioner. One of the candidates, which seems well received is CTEK Multi MXS 10 10A 12V 8-Stage Battery Charger Conditioner - anyone using this and can recommend it (or any alternative)? TIA

Nice one Pete, much appreciated. My eyes are not what they were when I bought the car 36 years ago 😉

After years of non use, the panel light rheostat seems to have siezed in my 79 Eclat. Thinking of taking the knob off and spraying something (wd40?) down the shaft? Does the knob just pull off? Any locking screw? If the rheostat doesn't free, how do I get it out? In through the side panel? Thanks

Thanks guys. Much appreciated

Evening all - I could do with removing the rear light lenses on 'Linford' to paint the bumper. Looking inside the boot, I can see these 2 bolts - they are longer than I was expecting and the lower one is just spinning and not coming out. With the top bolt completely removed, there's no movement in the lens (of course, it is still attached by the lower bolt) Am I in the right area or am I undoing the wrong bolts?? Can't see anything else or any other reason for these 2 to be where they are (unless they are holding the bumper on) TIA

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/gb-car-sticker-to-be-replaced-by-new-uk-version/

Afternoon all. I was leaking fuel from my fuel cap on my 521 Eclat because the cap wasn't a tight fit - only really happened on twisty bits with a fullish tank So, I got a rather nice fuel proof rubber washer which was a great fit and the cap tightened up nicely - a bit too tight, as it happened and I would have come to a stop quite quickly if I hadn't topped up with a gallon before setting off, because there was a large whoosh when I took the cap off which indicated no air was getting in prior to that. So, plan A is to cut a small section out of the new seal just to let some air in - see pic - do you think this will work/suffice? Cheers Tim

Ah, so I can mix it? I was assuming it was a bit arsey like anti-freeze

Just checking - will this be any DOT 4?

Beautiful

I went there (they are local) but they didn't have anything. Interestingly, the bloke said if he did have any, they would look worse in 12 months time than mine do now (on the grounds that "they don't make them like they used to")

Hmmm - that didn't go as expected. The Lucas switch 33799 isn't behaving as I expected. I'm no electrician, but some things make sense and some things don't make sense, and this is making my head hurt. Effectively, the switch has 3 wires coming into it, the power comes into the central terminal, the top terminal routes power to the 'down' circuit of the motor and and the bottom terminal routes to the 'up' circuit of the motor. The original switch has what I believe to be an internal short - if I press 'down' it goes down, but the instant I release 'down' (intending to stop the window wherever it is), it goes back up again. The 'Up' switch behaves as expected but the central position of the switch (which should be neither up nor down, operates as up) So, I bought a new 33799 but it behaved exactly like the original. Out of the car, I put a multimeter across terminals 6 and 8 and there is a closed circuit even when the switch itself is in the central (off) position. I can't see how this is possible. I returned said 33799 and was sent another one, but this behaves exactly the same. If power is flowing to 'up' when the switch is in the 'off' position, something is awry, is it not? There is nothing wrong with the wiring in the car, because if I put the switch from the passenger side into the driver side, it behaves itself. It also does not behave the same on a multimeter. One explanation is that this whole batch of switches is dud, or there is a peculiar difference between how the Stag uses a switch to how the Eclat uses an almost identical switch (but, surely power flowing to 'up' when the switch is 'off' wouldn't do a Stag any good either?) A different (more visual) explanation is in the attached HELP!!!!!! elec window switch.docx

Phew - having two fitted today. My Eagle NCT's have full tread and look OK but they are 21 years old so I'm operating on the assumption that even mid-range tyres from 2021 will be better than 21 year old tyres, good though they were at the time