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algirdas

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About algirdas

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  • Name
    Algirdas M. Liepas
  • Car
    1971 Elan, 1976 Elite, 1991 Elan
  • Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado
  1. algirdas

    algirdas

  2. Dear All: Does anyone know how many amps are drawn by each of the original 1974 Elite cooling fans? Sincerely, Algirdas
  3. Dear Mr. Phillips: Would you be willing to share with me your front spring compressor design? Sincerely, Algirdas
  4. Dear All: The project is progressing albeit slower than I like. We are starting reupholstery. Everything is coming apart nicely except the covers on the front seat backs. How do you get the seat covers over the headrests without destroying the seat covers? Sincerely, Algirdas
  5. Dear All: My wife and I are starting the reupholstery process. Everything is coming apart nicely, but we are now to the front seatbacks. How do you remove the upholstery on the front seatback? Specifically, how do you get it over the headrest without destroying it? Sincerely, Algirdas
  6. Dear All: Is there an easy way of compressing the front road spring on an Elite? I have not yet taken mine apart, but I can tell that my spring compressors are (i) not long enough and (ii) too fat to fit between the coils. Any suggestions? Sincerely, Algirdas
  7. Dear All: I did the same, but with a 3 1/4 inch hole saw. I also replaced the hand brake clevis pins with a 1/4 inch shouldered hex head bolt. Here are some pictures. The assembled bolt acts as pivot and consists of the shoulder bolt, an M6 narrow band hardened zinc coated washer, a 10-24 stainless steel washer and a 10-24 zinc coated nylon collared nut. The holes then can be plugged using the same round rubber body cavity plug found in the front wheel arch by the steering u-joint. Another tip-cut the holes a bit higher up on the cars back seat backboard. You can then easily access the allen head bolt directly from the top. Sincerely, Algirdas
  8. Dear All: Thanks for the help. Just so I am clear, the bowden cable does not run outside in the wheel arch where it can be exposed to the elements-correct? If I head up the wheel arch, there is no hole there and on the boot side of the wall between the passenger compartment and the boot is the evaporative system catch tank. Next dumb question-I am assuming the jacket or sleeve of the bowden cable gets secured and the cable running through it moves the multiplying lever. Could it be like the throttle on a baby Elan and the cable itself is secured and the sleeve of the bowden cable does the heavy lifting and moves the multiplying lever? I'll try to take some pics tonight. Sincerely, Algirdas
  9. Dear Adrian: My multiplier does not have a 90 degree braket that allows it to stand vertically. But that is not the issue. How does the cable makes its way from the interior to the boot? Sincerely, Algirdas
  10. Dear Friends: I have studied the diagram that Ray has on his website. Its the same one I have in the parts manual. Problem is it does not show where the cable gets routed from the interior to the boot. Plus, the multiplying lever on my car moves forward parallel to the ground and not downward. Sincerely, Algirdas
  11. Dear Friends: I am doing less tearing apart these days and starting to put things back on the car. But I am completely baffled about routing the rear hatch release cable. I know where it originates and where it terminates, but the routing of the middle bit has me stumped. There is a hole down low near the fuel pump mounting which is roughly in line with the cable mounting plate in the rear corner, but it leads into the rear wheel well. The previous "restoration experts" smeared undercoating (I know, WTF!) all over the wheel wells. Could they have covered up a corresponding hole on the interior side of the wheel well? Could Lotus have designed the car to have this cable to go through an open wheel well? I find it hard to believe, but I am at a loss on how to get this cable from point A to point B. Any help? Sincerely, Algirdas
  12. Dear Friends: This is going to sound like a sick joke, but here is how to remove a condensing unit on a S1 Elite: Step 0: soak the a/c fittings on the condensing unit with the best penetrating oil you have. Step 1: remove the headlamps. Step 2: disconnect the turn signals. Step 3: remove the front bumper. Step 4: remove the front spoiler. Step 5: disconnect a/c lines from the condenser. Step 6: remove the nuts holding the condenser in place. Step 7: lift out condenser. My parents always used to joke that whenever a German product was poorly designed it was due to its being designed after lunch. I think the engineers who designed this did so after the pubs were open. Sincerely, Algirdas
  13. Dear Charlie: Mine looks that way too, but I can't get off the front spoiler to get at the underside of the condenser unit. Sincerely, Algirdas
  14. Dear Friends: Can anyone tell me how to remove an S1 Elite front spoiler on a car with aircon? It looks as is the two outside conderser mounts are part of the spoiler mount. I'm trying to remove the condenser, but it looks like it does not have bolts separate from the condenser bracket. Sincerely, Algirdas
  15. Dear All: In going through the cooling system, I came across something interesting. With the radiator out of the car, I decided to bench test the cooling fans. Hooking them up the same way as far as the color coding on the wires is concerned, one spun counter-clockwise while the other spun clockwise. The engraved arrow indicates counter-clockwise rotation is required for both. This car is riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma-and the workshop manual is not the key! Sincerely, Algirdas
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