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2011 Chrome Orange

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2011 Chrome Orange last won the day on October 12 2014

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About 2011 Chrome Orange

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    2011 Chrome Orange/Cocobolo Evora S 2+0
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    Northern New Jersey
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  1. I'm both a fan of black wheels and I've never lifted my Lotus with a forklift 😀
  2. Maybe a one-way valve or Anti-siphon valve to keep the system primed?
  3. The battery would be my biggest concern. But, you have it covered with the trickle charger. If you are worried about tires, you could add a little extra air and just set proper pressures before you drive. But, I don't think you have anything to really worry about. Used cars sit on dealers lots for months without being started. I used to store my Evora from late November/Early December until late March/early May without starting it and without an issue. During this hibernation, it was always covered, on a battery tender, with slightly over pressured tires, flat spotters, full gas tank with stabil and had recent fluid changes. However, there is one thing I would like to note. A few years back when I took my car out in the spring, the AC was somewhat weak. I took it to the dealer for a leak check (with dye) and they found absolutely nothing wrong. They topped it up and I was good to go. The only thing I could figure was that the seals were drying out slightly from lack of use for several months. So, now I have changed my routine. I now start it the 1st of every month and let her run for a while with the AC going. I haven't had an AC issue since. (For those that may worry that I don't warm the car up long enough to get rid of condensation....the car is kept in a heated garage with exhaust port vents in the garage door. So, I run the car in the warmth of the garage without having to open the garage door.) I don't know definitively that this was my issue. But, I was provided no other reason for the slight loss of charge. And, it hasn't reoccurred since I changed my routine.
  4. An out of adjustment or bad brake switch can throw TC light, kick you out of Sport Mode and also knock off cruise. Although, I don't remember off the top of my head if it also caused a limp mode?? I would try driving in Sport Mode, and see if you get the TC light. If TC light pops up, see if it kicked you out of Sport Mode. Then you can also try to activate cruise. If you have all three issues, my bet is the brake switch which you might get it back in order by pulling the brake switch plunger out one notch.
  5. Do you also get kicked out of sport mode and your cruise control becomes disabled? If so, could be your brake switch is out of adjustment or is going bad. If you have those symptoms (TC light, no Sport Mode, no Cruise Control) , you might get it back in order by pulling the brake switch plunger out one notch.
  6. If your reverse lights work, then the fuse should be good to the camera as they share the same 5A fuse. And, if you can manually select the camera from the head unit, I would think that the video feed from the camera itself is fine too. So, my guess is that its an activation issue possibly caused from lack of signal from the + reverse feed ( I think on my Alpine this is an orange/white wire at the back of the head unit). That's where I would test first with the gear in reverse. For the reverse sensors, if they are now working that's great news. However, if they stop again, try re-seating the power cable on the module. On the Cobra Parkmaster 0158 it is this cable:
  7. I don't want to hijack this belt change thread. But, the owner's manual also references 10 years. Of course, you can have a sensor that craps out long before the 10 years. Just for fun, I would try a few simple steps to see if it will fix itself: 1. Deflate the bad tire and then over inflate the bad tire 2. Go for a short drive until the TPMS registers 3. See if that tire shows up. If so, let some air out and re-inflate to proper amount 4. If it does not register, over inflate and try 1 more time 5. test drive again to see if everything is working. Either way, make sure you have proper pressure when done using an accurate hand held gauge. I know this has worked on other vehicles when the system was just acting wonky. Although, if it is a battery failure this will not help. But of course it won't hurt either and cost nothing to try.
  8. I think the posts above about coolant may be on to something.... A couple guys over here had a similar 4500-5000RPM limit. No CEL/or service lights, and the temperature appeared normal. However, a thorough check revealed they were slightly low on coolant. Once topped off, they had no further issues. One also replaced the overflow tank cap (Toyota part #16475-28140) as he felt he was losing pressure/coolant from there. Interestingly, the Toyota service advisor he bought the cap from stated that the caps should be replaced every 2 years.
  9. For what its worth, Lotus Service Notes, Section GJ.2 page 2 (TPMS), states... "Note that the pressure sensors are powered by integral batteries, with an average service life of 10 years. It is recommended to renew all pressure sensors at this time interval."
  10. Glad its working. But to answer your question, yes #9 above. It should be made by Cobra (probably model 0158) and will look like this.....(please disregard the extra wires with inline fuse holder. They are for something I added to my car)
  11. HethelSport over here sells Powerflex ARB bushings (both purple and black). According to their website: "Bushings are available for two applications: PERFORMANCE for street/track driving, and RACE for competition and road racing. The difference is simply the density of the bushing. Rubber bushings typically have a durometer of 50A (a standardized unit of measure for hardness). Our purple Performance bushings are around 80A and our black Race bushings are about 95A."
  12. I would expect it to last the life of the tire if added by the manufacturer. I also wouldn't expect any increase in price. Factory produced white letter tires have been around for decades. They are still stock tires for many car brands. Its not new technology. So, really no reason for added cost. I would actually think tire manufacturers would love to produce them as they are a never ending source of advertising.
  13. You should not need a PIN just for a dead battery. (Although, you may have an airbag light that will need to be reset after a battery discharge) However, if you do need to use the PIN.... You can use the 5 digit PIN to bypass the immobilizer and start the car. If you don't know the PIN, try calling your dealer for help. (PIN came with keys presented to original owner). Here's the process: If the key transmitter is damaged or fails to function, and a spare key is not available, the alarm system’s unique specific Identification Number (PIN) may be used to disarm the alarm provided that access is available to the cabin: - Turn on the ignition. The alarm tell tale will light. - If the alarm is armed, accessing the cabin, or turning on the ignition will trigger the alarm until completion of this emergency process. - Within 10 seconds, turn the ignition off; the tell tale will begin to flash. - After a number of flashes corresponding to the first digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Note that the first flash may not be of full duration (but is still to be counted). Note that 10 flashes correspond to a zero digit. - Turn off the ignition and after a number of flashes corresponding to the second digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Repeat this process until all 5 digits have been completed. If, at any stage of the process, a number is entered incorrectly, the system will immediately revert to the start, so that the whole PIN must be re-entered. - If the PIN is entered correctly, the alarm will now be overridden and the engine mobilised. However, automatic immobilisation will still occur after an ignition off time of 40 seconds, requiring a repeat of the above procedure to mobilise. Note that automatic re-arming of the alarm and automatic door locking cannot occur until a working transmitter is used to operate the alarm. Lastly, if you can't get the boot open with the release, you you can try this method and pop a maxi fuse out to temporarily apply 12V directly to the fuse block: From what has been reported, there is also access to one of the battery distribution terminals from the left hand rear wheel well area.
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