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2011 Chrome Orange

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2011 Chrome Orange last won the day on October 12 2014

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About 2011 Chrome Orange

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  • Name
  • Car
    2011 Chrome Orange/Cocobolo Evora S 2+0
  • Location
    Northern New Jersey

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  1. It might be where you are putting pressure on the door to close. Contrary to what you might think, push down on the front edge (the edge closer to the front of the car) not the back edge.
  2. LotusFella, no need to pump the clutch. Just make sure you have a good connection with the bleed hose on the slave bleed nipple and do not open the bleed nipple more than you have to or you can pull air from the nipple threads while vacuum bleeding. Other option if you aren't successful... pressure bleed from the master so that there is no air introduced at the bleed nipple. Several guys over here have performed a good bleed and got the pedal back. Lotus recommends every two years, if I remember right. But, I bleed every year with Castrol SRF React Racing fluid. Its pricey but I have never had an issue. Also, while you are there, check for the heat wrap on the slave line as mentioned above. If you don't have's pretty much a must have to prevent further issues. Also, I'm not sure about your right hand cars, but on our left hand cars, master cylinder replacement has been done through the left wheel well. I haven't done it myself, but it has been done. Although, my guess is it would be much easier with the clam off if you haven't done one before (if I ever have to replace mine, I'll be doing clam off).
  3. I don't recall if those nuts are captive or not. So, they may or may not drop and require clam removal for retrieval. But, I believe a very small hole drilled in the VERY CORNER of the hatch opening (below the pollen filter trap door and in the corner so water does not pool on the pollen filter) would not be an issue based on what is below. Of course, do so at your own risk. I would also use a drill stop to make sure you only drill through the clam and not any further.
  4. I'm a fan of Deltran Battery tenders (I currently have 18 on various vehicles/boats etc.). They sell solar controllers or panels with built in controllers: I'm just not sure if they are compatible with lithium batteries. However, I'm sure an inquiry will answer that: [email protected] If they are not compatible, I'm sure there are solar panels that can power a compatible lithium battery charger out there.
  5. Is that garage a private one? Does the garage have windows? Can a solar panel be placed in a window or outside to power a trickle charger compatible with a lithium battery ?
  6. For what its worth, over this way, there have been more '14 cars that had to have the wiring harness replaced than any other year. (Almost all have been '13 and '14 cars.)
  7. Are you the original owner? Have your wheel been refinished? Did you use their product on all 4 wheels and if so, do any other wheels have the same issue? Meguiar's webpage states their Ultimate all wheel cleaner is "Acid free and pH balanced". I would therefore believe it was not caused by their product. However, it does contain the following: Sodium mercaptoacetate, alcohol ethoxysulfate (sodium salt) and Ethoxylated C9-11 alcohols. What this means... I have no idea as I'm not a chemist. But it looks like at least some of those chemicals are used in (of all things) beauty products. Your research may vary though.
  8. Someone on one of the forums had a custom dash cover made. I tried to inquire about getting one but the company I was linked to said they do not make them for the Evora.
  9. Yes, your vacuum line is folded over and plugged so it is no longer going to an EP valve.
  10. When you say you don't hear a change, do you mean your valve is open all the time? Depending on what year your S is will determine where the EP valve (exhaust protection valve) is located.
  11. Although unorthodox, you might be able to hook up a tender using alligator clips via the front fuse box power feed. Then, run the cord out of a partially lowered window (providing you park in a garage).
  12. Some threads to read (also use the links contained in it): Here's info on faulty boot latches and possible failure reason: There is also a boot "fail safe" that will help you get into the boot if your battery dies, or your interior cable doesn't work. However, this fail safe must be put into place BEFORE you have an issue. It will also NOT ALWAYS work - mostly if you have a faulty latch assembly that has loosened where the striker isn't striking. The fail safe is not posted publicly because it will enable someone to get into your boot. However, I will PM you the fail safe now....
  13. Thanks Gordon for the follow-up post and particularly the photos! I too have the rubber version on my '11 S. But it looks like I'll have to disconnect the oil feed and return lines to the sandwich plate to be able to access the fasteners for the oil cooler feed/return pipes.
  14. My PIN tag was extremely hard to read so I contacted a dealer (my selling dealer had closed) who confirmed the PIN with my VIN information and proof of ownership. As far as programming additional transmitters: "Two transmitter fobs are provided with the new car. If one transmitter is lost or damaged, a replacement should be obtained immediately, and programmed to the car alarm controller using the alarm system’s unique specific Identification Number (PIN). A maximum of 6 transmitters may be programmed to the car, any thereafter overwriting the first to have been programmed. - With the engine immobilised (tell tale flashes briefly once per second), turn on the ignition. - Enter the PIN as detailed in the emergency disarming process below, followed by the additional two digits 1, 1. - The tell tale will flash rapidly for one second, then turn off. - Within 8 seconds, press any button on the transmitter to be programmed. The tell tale will then pulse rapidly and the siren will beep. - Within 10 seconds press any button on the next transmitter to be programmed (if applicable), and repeat this process for all remaining transmitters. - When all transmitters have been programmed, wait for 10 seconds, or turn off the ignition. To disable a lost or stolen transmitter from the system, use the above procedure to programme 6 transmitters, if necessary repeatedly reprogramming the same transmitter if less than 6 programmed transmitters are to be used. Emergency Disarming/Mobilising If the key transmitter is damaged or fails to function, and a spare key is not available, the alarm system’s unique sPecific Identification Number (PIN) may be used to disarm the alarm provided that access is available to the cabin: - Turn on the ignition. The alarm tell tale will light. - If the alarm is armed, accessing the cabin, or turning on the ignition will trigger the alarm until completion of this emergency process. - Within 10 seconds, turn the ignition off; the tell tale will begin to flash. - After a number of flashes corresponding to the first digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Note that the first flash may not be of full duration (but is still to be counted) dependent on the waveform position at time of ignition switch off. Note that 10 flashes correspond to a zero digit. - Turn off the ignition and after a number of flashes corresponding to the second digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Repeat this process until all 5 digits have been completed. If, at any stage of the process, a number is entered incorrectly, the system will immediately revert to the start, so that the whole PIN must be re-entered. - If the PIN is entered correctly, the alarm will now be overridden and the engine mobilised. However, automatic immobilisation will still occur after an ignition off time of 40 seconds, requiring a repeat of the above procedure to mobilise. Note that automatic re-arming of the alarm and automatic door locking cannot occur until a working transmitter is used to operate the alarm."
  15. I have not used SprayMax 2K specifically on my headlights, but I have used it on other automotive and motorcycle projects. It sprays quite nice with a decent pattern and I have had very good results with it. Note that as a 2K, two part (acrylic paint with activator) system, it contains some pretty harsh chemicals like isocyanates (I found out years ago I was allergic to isocyanates and had a bad reaction). So, my suggestion is that if you try it you consider using a proper paint respirator/eye protection and gloves. More info on SprayMax 2K Clear: Good luck with the refurb.
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