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2011 Chrome Orange

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2011 Chrome Orange last won the day on October 12 2014

2011 Chrome Orange had the most liked content!

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  • Name
  • Car
    2011 Chrome Orange/Cocobolo Evora S 2+0
  • Location
    Northern New Jersey

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  1. Has anyone tried to source the door latch as the full latch install kit? They use different part #'s than the latches alone. For the early cars with the door sill button (NON-Inteva), Lotus sells kits that include the latch, door curtain, interior cable release, fasteners, clips, new sill button, and even the release handle setting tool. The kit was for TSB 2011/26 for door latches. Although, I cannot find any documentation on this TSB. The kits don't show up in the online search unless you enter in the part number. I inquired if they were a proper fit for my 2011 car WITH DOOR SILL BUTTON and my Lotus dealer originally did not know. He inquired with Lotus, and then obtained a kit from them to visually check and verified they are for the door sill button cars. This is the part numbers for the kits: Evora Door latch kit A132B4320S RH Evora Door latch kit A132B4319S LH I did note that the latch part # listed in the kit as shown below (for example, they show the left hand latch as C132B4151F) is a different part # then the latch by itself. But, the kit includes the sill button. So, they should work according to my dealer. However, you may want to verify for yourself that it is the same if you go this route.
  2. Gotcha. I have no idea how they fabricate their grilles. I was under the impression the carbon is laid in a mold followed by (the non visible) fiberglass. Of course, I could be wrong. My mother used to tell me I was on a daily basis. I'm not by my car right now but I don't recall seeing any waviness in the cf. I was very pleased at how they looked. And, I'm pretty anal so I'd be shocked if they were wavy. But I'll have to look again.
  3. Yes, OEM mesh gets removed. (I did it a while ago, but if I remember rights there are studs and nuts. It was very very basic. I thought I had more photos but can't find them) The new vents have their own mesh. I'm not sure how "quality of CF lamination is very low" was meant. Meaning all CF lamination or a particular sample? My vents are pretty darn nice. And, having just done my own (real) CF overlay on the front dash panel, I think it came out pretty good too.
  4. Not very difficult to install. Front clam off, minor adjustments of holes (rats tail file) to get them to line up and to bolt in. I bought the cf so they did not require additional body work/paint.
  5. Back in the day, I went the Disney Cars version too...
  6. Still looks great even if its beat up a little. I hope the poor kid who lost it got a new one! (I have about 10 that I keep in the boot to hand out to kids who show interest my car
  7. Be very careful if you try to jump start an Evora. If you have the key in the ignition while you apply outside voltage, you can corrupt the ECU and get a (fatal) "COMMS ERR". The way to avoid this is to keep the key away from the vehicle until you have the jump box connected. Then proceed to grab the key and start the vehicle. The ECU is extremely sensitive to voltage spikes and is powered up when the key is in the ignition in ANY position. Originally, this error would cause you to have to purchase a new and very expensive ECU. However, the ECU can now be recovered by Lotus but is still a very costly procedure. It has happened to several owners over here before it was learned what had actually caused the issue (all common with owners trying to jump start their vehicles).
  8. I "borrowed" these photos from online to show what you are looking for when replacing the brake switch...
  9. Paint code for the US is printed on the VIN decal that is affixed behind the passenger seat. It may be the same for the ROW: "The number is also printed on a label stuck to the vertical face of the fuel tank bay, below the front edge of the right hand rear seat cushion or luggage shelf. Pull back a flap in the carpet to view."
  10. Although not an Evora, I kept a car covered outdoors for roughly two years without issue. The main thing is to get the best cover you can designed for outdoors. Over here, we have a company called California Car Cover that makes covers in various types of materials for what you would use it for. Their materials for outdoors are basically water proof but still breathable. So, rain does not penetrate but any humidity/moisture that may get under the cover can still evaporate. I related it to a raincoat for us humans. The car I had covered stayed perfect and as clean the day I would uncover it as the day I covered it. The key I found to keeping the car perfect was to make sure it was spotless before I covered it and also secured all the way around to prevent the wind from lifting. I did this with "tarp clips" in the front, rear and two on each side. I then used thin rope "tie downs" to pull it tight. Even in the highest winds, it never moved. California Car Cover will even make a custom cover or a cover any way you want (I've ordered 11 complete custom covers from them over the years). So, I ordered mined with a longer "skirt" so even when I pulled it tight, even the wheels were completely covered. I know shipping to you would be rough, but perhaps you can find similar materials over by you and a company that will make it how you want. More info :
  11. I had a torque issue when I bought new rims (BC Forged). I brought new wheels/ new tires/ new transmitters to the tire fitter and didn't realize he did not torque the new transmitters properly. After I mounted them, all 4 tires lost air over night. I had to tighten all 4 transmitters to stop the leaks. I also had to drive about 50 miles for the new transmitters to all register correctly on the dash. The proper torque for them is 7.5Nm.
  12. It might be where you are putting pressure on the door to close. Contrary to what you might think, push down on the front edge (the edge closer to the front of the car) not the back edge.
  13. LotusFella, no need to pump the clutch. Just make sure you have a good connection with the bleed hose on the slave bleed nipple and do not open the bleed nipple more than you have to or you can pull air from the nipple threads while vacuum bleeding. Other option if you aren't successful... pressure bleed from the master so that there is no air introduced at the bleed nipple. Several guys over here have performed a good bleed and got the pedal back. Lotus recommends every two years, if I remember right. But, I bleed every year with Castrol SRF React Racing fluid. Its pricey but I have never had an issue. Also, while you are there, check for the heat wrap on the slave line as mentioned above. If you don't have's pretty much a must have to prevent further issues. Also, I'm not sure about your right hand cars, but on our left hand cars, master cylinder replacement has been done through the left wheel well. I haven't done it myself, but it has been done. Although, my guess is it would be much easier with the clam off if you haven't done one before (if I ever have to replace mine, I'll be doing clam off).
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