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2011 Chrome Orange

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Everything posted by 2011 Chrome Orange

  1. There is a used complete assembly on ebay. It may get you back on the road in a pinch. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234686140643?hash=item36a46250e3:g:mwwAAOSw~i1jFwai&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCsfodJdCS4xGl%2F3w97csSetwQl0EqNURBe7W%2FJuwr2OpodAvS9b%2FesRT%2BMnhcGF8g%2Bk49R0zh3dwGNgQdo%2BQ1nvSGqoOzIlire5f285oyGayLWtsIeKB83nJo%2Ft9YHsIeh2yG%2F%2B3DLiBS0YLFlpANV%2Fzkw5XKMGe1FcmwUnXAU3eNfC3ECMhKjjINhFmBsurPRC7seI9XDeoGKlSy11qq0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9SF_NDiYA
  2. Yeah, sorry about the thread hijack. But, your post brought my frustration back up. I knew that brake fluid could destroy paint. So, I wouldn't be surprised if it would damage PPF. Hopefully, you dodged a bullet and the film ends up fine in the end.
  3. This is what I am currently dealing with.... I took my new daily driver (5K miles) to a dealer for warranty work when it was totaled from flooding. Of course, I cannot blame the dealer for an act of God or a natural disaster. However, I later learned they flooded 3 years ago where 42 cars floated off their lot and down the nearby river. So, they knew the propensity of flooding. I also reviewed my dash cam video (which kicked on as my vehicle went under and shorted out) and saw that when they moved my vehicle to the back of their lot just prior to the flooding, they moved ALL OF THEIR NEW INVENTORY off the lot so they could save them. (If you look in the one photo, you can see how empty the lot is. The vehicles still there were customers cars with license plates on them.) So, my insurance totaled the truck and paid me for my loss. But, I still loss my insurance deductible (and contents of the truck) which I believe the dealer should cover. I also had to pay much, much more for a new vehicle due to the crazy market and vehicle shortages etc. The dealer was also so nice to me that they even refused to let me get my vehicle off the lot for 7 days after it was flooded. The dealer said they (1). didn't know where it was-even though you could see it on the lot (2.) didn't know who owned it-even though I had proof of ownership (3.) were too busy to help release it-they were bringing their inventory back. This prevented me from trying to salvage it and its contents. On the 7th day, I went to the local police and had them escort me to have it towed (I owned it outright and had the title with no lien on it). I had intended to file criminal charges against them if they didn't release it (over here we have a charge for "theft of movable property" if you have someone's property and won't give it back). Long story short, its costing me much more money to fight them in court than I'm out but its the principal of the matter. I'm hoping they lose just so they learn a lesson.....that they should take the same care of a customer's car as they do their own. It will also be a public record of how they treated me. I should note that if I had not learned about the prior flooding (showing that they knew the lot could flood), the fact that they only moved their cars to save them (easily over 100 cars) and not the customers cars, or they let me get my vehicle to try to save it, I would never have taken action against them. I hate dealers and do my own work whenever possible in order to avoid them at all cost (this was for warranty work on a new vehicle). Most of them absolutely do not care about your property, only theirs. (Rant over 😉)
  4. You are definitely taking this better than I would. The brake fluid could be chalked up to an accident. But, the oily prints would have put me over the top. When you pay good money to have someone take care of your car.........well, they should take care of your car!
  5. No worries. I just wanted to explain my post in case it wasn't clear for anyone reading in the future....
  6. I did not state the "manual release" from the factory has to be set up. I stated that the "emergency boot release hack" will only work if it is set up PRIOR to having a release issue. I was referring to "emergency boot release hack" as was stated by jimbob3. (I then posted a shot from the manual showing direction of pull for the "manual tailgate release" as this was also mentioned twice before my post.) The "emergency boot release hack" is very similar to what EvoraBob showed with his string and ring. That MUST be set up before you have an issue. How else would you put the string in place with a boot that won't open?
  7. The "emergency boot release hack" will only work if it is set up PRIOR to having a release issue. Here's the direction of pull referred to above on early cars..
  8. Mine came as a complete kit including the power control module. Those photos you posted are from Lckitty's car. He bought them in 2013 off ebay.. "ordered some 9 LED ones for mine today. I found these type (see photo) that matched the look I wanted and are 12 inches long (minor trimming to ends of lens will be needed). All the others seem to only be 6 inches long and I wanted more. These have a slight arc to them too so should fit in there nicely. Only $15 but apparently they are not fully waterproof as advertised so I'll have to do some minor sealing prior to install. I have some extra Flexseal so I'll mask the lens and spray them good." If you want a more quality light, I think TBD_Evora used these in his S: https://autohost.lv/en/product/nolden/led_drl/premium_line/led_drl_premium_line_slim_500_chrome/
  9. I'm in the US so we have the DRL contained within the headlight activated from the factory. However, I added an aftermarket bumper that came with DRLs. So, I did not want the headlight area illuminated at the same time. There are several owners here that utilize the factory DRLs as well as bumper mounted (aftermarket) DRLs at the same time.
  10. On my 2011 S, I used a fuse tap to the cabin power socket which I believe is slot C37 (10A). I used a fuse tap as I did not have to cut any wires and the cabin power socket circuit because if the fuse blows it won't effect anything important. I also used a screw from the front relay box mount as a ground point. (Note the + power wire in the photo is labeled "high beam" as I did not have another heat shrink labeled "DRL". )
  11. ^That would possibly account for the front indicator being out. But, if both front and rear are out it sounds like agentdr8 is pointing in the right direction (pun intended). Like he usually does.
  12. @Cdm2018 I'll share what I did years ago for engine compartment lighting. Its just some ideas to think about. I bought 12V Giella LEDS which were sold as “Intense heat and fire resistant”. The selling demo actually shows a torch placed directly onto a lit strip with no ill effects except carbon deposit and the lights were still shining brightly afterwards. So, they would withstand the heat of the engine bay. Unfortunately, I just looked for Giella LEDS and could no longer find info on them. But, I'm sure there are other brands out there. Anyway, when mounting them, I wanted to be able to easily remove them as they were just for fun not long term use. So, I came up with using aluminum strips, wire ties, Velcro and spire/spring nuts. In the first photo below, you can see the two LED light strips I added to the aluminum strips. The lights had adhesive backing that I used, plus added a few wire ties for good measure. The top light I mounted to aluminum angle. I painted the one side black so it would blend in with the engine bay. On the other side, I added Velcro. I then used two sided Velcro (the round loops in photo) and mounted the two sided Velcro loops to the black engine cover mounting bar that crosses the engine bay. This enabled me to Velcro this light strip to the bar and remove it again in 2 seconds if I wanted. I just left the double sided Velcro loops on the bar. Or, they could have also been removed in another 2 seconds. (For longer installed time I did add two wire ties around the bar for safety) For the bottom LED light strip in the first photo, I attached it to a small strip of aluminum using the light's adhesive and a couple wire ties for good measure. I then epoxied two spire/spring nuts to the aluminum. This enabled me to clamp this light strip to the heat shield closest to the boot using the spire/spring nuts as a "slide on clamp". Once again, this could be installed or removed in 2 seconds. Front light mounted to engine cover bar: Rear light clipped onto heat shield by boot: Here's the back side of those strips.. I also bought a cheap 12V remote on/off box off ebay. I think it was $15 at the time. I wired that to the lights and then to a cigarette lighter adapter that I plugged into the 12V port in the boot (I Velcroed the box in place so it was secure but easily removed). This enabled me to turn the lights on/off from the drivers seat using the remote control switch. There was no hard wiring into the cars harness and I could pull the whole system out as a unit in seconds with no evidence it was ever there. Reading this, it probably sounds much more involved than it is. Oh, and while I think of it, don’t forget to add an in-line fuse (the 12V cigarette adapter I used also had one) and a few wire ties to hold the wires out of the way if needed. Not the best photos, but you should get the general idea.
  13. ^ I believe the mounting holes to bolt the 400 latch into the door are in a different orientation than the S1 latches.
  14. Does the Elise Shop Evora radiator come with a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator tank?
  15. I had a similar issue that I ran into when I had my aftermarket parts painted. My paint code is C25 (Chrome Orange) but the high end body shop I was using could only come up with B25 (a different variant than my Chrome Orange). The body shop kept telling me I must have the wrong code. I insisted it was correct. I even showed them the label with the code by the seat. Then, after two unsuccessful attempts at matching my OEM paint, I requested that the body shop contact the paint manufacturer who then sent out a rep to match it correctly (and use the correct code) 😃. I asked Lotus for clarification on this issue and this is what I was sent: "A new paint system, Cromax Pro, which is an activated water based coat, was introduced for specific paint colours in May 2010 as a running change and can be identified by the letter ‘C’ prefix on the paint code, whereas the previous standard Cromax paint was identified with a ‘B’ prefix. The difference between the standard Cromax and the Cromax Pro is the finished appearance, i.e. the metallic effect of the Cromax Pro system is now applied to the base coat with a standard clear coat, whereas the previous Cromax system the finished effect was achieved through a tinted clear coat over a solid base coat. The finished appearance for the same colour may vary between the two paint systems, therefore it is essential the correct paint system is used when carrying out paint repairs."
  16. ^ You might want to check with that ebay seller before you just click to buy. They claimed they had them in stock last year and later admitted they had none.
  17. I added a CanBus Micro Gauge that I mounted up on my visor. Not the same as a HUDs. But, I find that I now only use that gauge when driving. I could not find a quality HUD that would work without a small reflective screen mounted on the windshield. The mount is actually just slipped behind the visor so there is no drilling or damage and nothing permanent. I can remove it in about 2 minutes. Here is info on the first one I installed (I later installed a second version that is pictured below). (NOTE: Its easier for me to link to them then re-write the info all over) https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-evora-today.166185/post-5991212 https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-evora-today.166185/post-5991291 A little info on the second version: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-evora-today.166185/post-5991291
  18. @MarkindevonMy net came installed when I factory ordered my car back in '11. I don't remember anymore if it was an add on cost or included on the S.
  19. I think the only issue with DYI (if I remember right) is the OEM is molded on the sides so it will fit better. Not by my car right now to take a peek and its been in hibernation for months 😵.
  20. I guess I should have looked it up in the UK. Here's what's quoted for our US pricing 🤬 ( I guessing its a mistake) : https://www.lotuspartsonline.com/a/Lotus_2011_Evora/_83814_9109033/Luggage-Compartment-Carpet/Evora_B132T0325D_1524.html
  21. Would this work? I THINK its for the front of the boot. It looks like it has the battery cut out. Says its part # H132U0049F. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232820255823?hash=item36352b2c4f:g:2FwAAOSwuehbMOId
  22. I can't help with sourcing similar carpeting. But, you can add a newer version battery cover so its mounted externally and no need to yank out the carpet to get to the battery. I did this on my 2011. I found a used carpet from a part out company. I then cut the carpet to fit the battery compartment opening and used a "glue on" binding to seal the edge. However, I did have to add a small plastic tab to the new cover so I could still use the original cover mounting locations with no modifications to the body (tab is basically hidden unless you look for it- note I took photo at angle to show tab). A few cut down bolts used as studs and thumb screw nuts and it was done. It makes servicing the battery very easy and less destructive. It has also helped with carpet droop where the carpet would slide down off the velcro and create a gap at the top of the boot (it drove my OCD crazy).
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