ragingfool35

wow they are no longer available....Tom Mieczkoski probably has some used ones. i think i gave him 2 from me. I made this in 2014 to utilize an aftermarket regulator on mine. fuel rail adapter.PDF

the fuel pressure does bleed away after sitting for a while. There is a 2 (or 3) second fuel pump activate each time the ignition switch is turned to the ON position for this reason. wait for the fuel pump to finish before cranking, see if that helps

he does good work. i rebuilt my engine (and just about the entire car) at his shop with his help. with the engine fully assembled and hanging on the chain about to be lowered into the car, i found a single leftover part. i showed him and immediately he knew where it was supposed to go, lol. Are you planning to disassemble your engine and assess all the damage? Welch advised that i would be surprised at the amount of wear and he was right. new exhaust valves, 16 new seats, new liners and optional new pistons. new turbo and exhaust manifold, new flywheel, clutch. anyway ended up $16k in parts but happy with the results. certainly more than the $5k i budgeted. Don't know what he is asking but that is my somewhat extreme cost perspective. hope you get it resolved! there are 4 race engine machine shops within stone's throw of my house that could repair it; i'm sure you can find something similar local to you. just aint cheap. cheers

Tom Mieczkoski probably has a rebuilt engine for sale

i put grease on the bolts/studs at assembly and clean the threads prior to installing the nuts

JAE in USA is sourcing AN bolts for the suspension. That seems an appropriate choice to me

its been a long time since i've looked at a black belt. I think the cross section of the blue belt is thicker and may be fiber reinforced, meaning all things being equal, the belt will undergo less deformation from the same tensile force. A buddy of mine at work did some development on the blue belts; i'll ask him the differences. so the engine gets hot and the distance between the crank and cam sprocket increases slightly from thermal expansion, increasing the tension on the belt. that's pretty straight forward. what the belt undergoes is out of my education, but if the blue belt is indeed less elastic then for the same cold tension, the hot (engine) tension will be higher for the blue belt. too bad the Esprit doesn't have a spring-loaded tensioner. that would solve a couple of issues. Tim Engel posted some comments on the blue belt cold tension. do a search or PM him for a more detailed discussion

i am still doing mine. getting the frame aligned with the window slide track such that the glass goes up and down without binding AND getting the frame snug at the top corner with the body shell hasn't been easy

i recently had more doors off and could not get the stud to move so had to unbolt the assembly from the car. The studs rotated as expected but lightly hammering did not budge them through the bushing.

yeah i had similar code 26 experience where i eventually discovered the relays were not arranged per the illustration in the manual so the relays i replaced were not actually applicable to the error code. good job

https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/69635-wc-engineering-ceramic-bearing-turbo/ i also made some comments regarding the stock ECU with my GT3071 here: https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/83569-rolling-road-leans-out-severely-at-4200rpm/?tab=comments#comment-659885

i suspect they are sacrificial much as the inserts of many other types of couplings is such as Lovejoy, etc. Since they are plastic with a plastic wheel it is less likely they absorb shock as many inserts do. I put aluminum gears in mine so the plastic torque pins probably serve both purposes now

very nice! i was not aware of that process. Certainly gives another option for the dash. thanks what are your climate control knobs from? did you reconfigure the stock system?

yes please

here is what the 3D vinyl looks like