ragingfool35

i went back and forth with iridium plugs, really didn't notice a difference (also using PUK's red race chip) but that doesn't mean much. However when i had my car rough-tuned on dyno after aftermarket ECU and COP, the tuner recommended to switch back to iridium. I did and it partially smoothed a timing problem i was having. It was tuned to 1.24 bar boost. It is super crisp and powerful after resolving my timing issue (my homemade cam sensor used a set screw that made the trigger point vary as the shaft it was on floated axially). I have yet to re-dyno (will inspect plugs then) but have put about 4k miles on the plugs, a lot of them max boosting for "long" periods down the interstate as i fine-tuned the myriad settings. Data logs (hundreds of them) show no misfires or knock or timing issues with the iridiums. Doesn't mean they are good or bad or better or worse than the standard plugs, just some incidental data to consider. when i told the tuner that the Esprit forums eschew iridium plugs, he responded that he puts them in all his cars. He is a tuner of local renown and strictly tunes Supras and GTRs to 1200 hp. My Esprit was his first 4 cyl car tune, I had to talk him into it and schedule 6 months in advance. Doesn't mean his experience with iridium should be taken as gospel, just something else to consider.

sweet boats? here is the gaiter. probably replace the reverse inhibitor delrin piece while there as well cheers

you can do it without disconnecting the rear but it is much easier if you unbolt the rod end joints and cable clamps at the rear so that you can pull the cables out of the hole at the shift lever to connect them to the lever's new bushings. I fought it for an hour before disconnecting the rear. Then it was literally 2 minutes to reconnect cables to gearshift. If you do disconnect the rear, be sure to mark which cable goes where. I used a Jeep CJ gater boot to replace the old Lotus unit. You are a sailor too? Just sold my Hunter 260, preparing to buy a 2014 Oceanis 38! yeah the work is never done

its been 10 yrs since I did that job so don't remember much. Pretty sure I searched this forum then and got some tips. Maybe this pic from then will help. While you are in there, check the HVAC plungers. Mine had been pushed a bit out of their retaining brackets; I had to glue them back into proper position so the cams would fully actuate them again.

many go with a GT3071R. Mine is .72AR. If I upgraded again I would seriously consider Gen 2 GTX3071R. But without other upgrades you will likely benefit only from reduced lag and maybe a second more of boost before air temp safety engages. I'm no turbo expert though.

i had a Greddy hanging on a bracket (just like the oil dip stick tube bracket) next to the oil dipstick. All it did was fill up with water though. I have a red and silver Greddy free if anyone wants. I can't find an old pic of either installed though.

just my experience: every manifold i've ever wrapped rusted pretty quick. The wrap holds moisture from rainy driving far more than I would ever have expected. Maybe a good ceramic coating will help, but it did not prevent rust on my buddy's 69 Camaro. My personal preference is never to insulate but instead improve airflow and use heat shields smartly.

the RC units fit just as Travis indicates. No drama, I converted to sequential injection and COP using five-0 black ops injectors and AEM Infinity ECU. The values I listed for five-0 are for the black ops 840cc/min injectors from that project. I ditched the secondary injectors. I measured and sketched everything to ensure the black ops would fit well. the sketch also includes the rail and intake injector seat dimensions as well as the distance between them (the top part of the sketch) (I have 6 RC injectors that only have 2000 miles on them for cheap if you want them as a result of the ECU conversion)

66 o-ring to o-ring bosch 75 total length 11.5 clip slot from end 14.6 o-ring dia 16 body dia 60 o-ring to o-ring RC 70.8 total length 8.7 clip slot from end 66 o-ring to o-ring Five-o 74 total length 10.8 clip slot from end 14 o-ring dia 17 body dia 14.6 o-ring OD 3.62 o-ring cross section dia

i have both a serial and USB that I can no longer use if anybody needs one

no joke about how dangerous the front springs especially. I had the spring compressed and carefully set it on the workbench when about 1 min later it freed itself and launched across the garage! fortunately nothing was in its path. Scary job

of course an aftermarket ECU usually has several flexfuel maps available

the tuners in the USA advised ditching the stock setup and use Audi coils as they are light, inexpensive and available anywhere for about $100 a set of 4. I have no idea if mine are any better or worse than the stock system, but the elimination of plug wires was appealing and my understanding is that COPs: allow for better spark management. Dwell time can be adjusted individually per cylinder Better misfire detection. Multiple sparks per combustion event possible. Greater reliability. Less effect on emissions during a failure. No need for a "double" platinum style plug when using an aftermarket ECU. These tuners are doing crazy high hp builds though, not a street motor. I had heard of spark blow out at high boost (higher than I was going to attempt) and they indicated the use of these COPs would either delay that problem to higher boost or RPM or provide a means to mitigate. interestingly, my first tune was done with a misfire. The tuner advised switching from the double platinum plug to iridium, which helped noticeably. I installed a new set of Audi-clone COPs and misfire resolved. If you go sequential, COP conversion is a no-brainer. Replacing that unobtainable OEM coil driver seems a good idea...

this the same as your order? https://shop.quaife.co.uk/renault-un1-lotus-esprit-v8-helical-upgrade-kit