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ragingfool35

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About ragingfool35

  • Rank
    LOTUS
  • Birthday 04/09/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    guitar, sportbikes, martial arts, archery, rc areoplanes, strippers

More Info

  • Name
    Chris
  • Car
    esprit 90SE
  • Modifications
    engine rebuild, JE pistons, Alunox manifold and exhaust, GT3701R turbo, AEM Infinity ECU, Audi COP, custom header tank, GPS speedo, poly bushings, Lotus Bilstien/Eibach suspension, Wilwood big brake kit all wheels, S4 wheels, H4 halo headlights, cruise control, custom window motors, custom aluminum fuel tanks
  • Location
    St Pete, FL USA

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  1. you are thinking of this, but above 5000 rpm and TPS above 75% the target value is .84 bar, TPS above 95% is 1 bar. The wastegate solenoid will do what it has to do to achieve the target boost, starting with the values in this table and modifying them until it has. I have some old logs with dc at 100%. This graph shows the base settings that have the least error to achieve those targets. Below 5000 rpm and TPS <75% there is no boost target. This is slightly different for my Infinity ECU which I specify a boost target for the entire range, but still have to include the same duty cycle table for the ECU to use as base settings to get there. Without the table the only safe way to do it would be to start at zero everytime and specify a ramp. Make sense?
  2. BTW I looked at a few old Freescan logs. To achieve the target 2.25 Map my wastegate duty cycle ranges from 65 to 80
  3. you are not wrong but the wastegate doesn't have to open much at all to kill the pressure. throttle position and coolant temp set the target boost. this is changed if knock is encountered. boost is determined by MAP. The PWM will change to achieve the target boost pressure. read EMH2 for the factory explanation of function. anyway even if you use the OEM capsule, the setup indicated in the service notes is just to get it close. you should then do a freescan log or 2 to see if it is responding properly. graph wastegate duty cycle with MAP and TPS something to consider when using OEM parts is how old they are. Rubber bushings have a shelf life for example. if the OEM capsule was assembled 20 yrs ago, the spring has been in some compression for that time whereas the Forge spring is shipped uninstalled. I doubt very much there would be any significant difference, just something to think about when pondering OEM vs aftermarket. one thing i don't like about the Forge is the mounting studs only engage a couple of threads of the capsule. you have to be careful not to install the nuts too tight or the studs pull out and the capsule is scrap hope that helps cheers
  4. use the Forge. i have for 12 years. The spring rate only needs to be close. the force to achieve the desired pressure setting is achieved by compressing the spring via the threads on the rod end. different spring rates just mean more or less turns of the rod end. If the selected spring rate is too far off, there won't be enough turns available on the rod end or it will be too sensitive to achieve desired pressure. I think i use a 7-12 psi spring. the spring rate was not given but those values are the achievable range using the rod end threads. even if you set the OEM or the Forge incorrectly, the ECU logic has to deal with more error but still compensates well. too far out of adjustment will allow boost spikes
  5. FYI my GT3071R .72 AR with Alunox manifold generates boost starting a 3k and sustains 18 psi at 4k and that is with a lot of D and no PI in my boost control. there is no lag. a twinscroll option might increase the spool speed but I don't see the need. But the stock ECU can't make use of the extra flow capacity of that turbo. Something to consider
  6. the wheel arch screws are sheet metal screws, maybe covered with wheel well undercoating, maybe vibrated out. 10.23A item 17 of the parts manual. nutplates? my SE has all factory stud plates
  7. i went back and forth with iridium plugs, really didn't notice a difference (also using PUK's red race chip) but that doesn't mean much. However when i had my car rough-tuned on dyno after aftermarket ECU and COP, the tuner recommended to switch back to iridium. I did and it partially smoothed a timing problem i was having. It was tuned to 1.24 bar boost. It is super crisp and powerful after resolving my timing issue (my homemade cam sensor used a set screw that made the trigger point vary as the shaft it was on floated axially). I have yet to re-dyno (will inspect plugs then) but have put about 4k miles on the plugs, a lot of them max boosting for "long" periods down the interstate as i fine-tuned the myriad settings. Data logs (hundreds of them) show no misfires or knock or timing issues with the iridiums. Doesn't mean they are good or bad or better or worse than the standard plugs, just some incidental data to consider. when i told the tuner that the Esprit forums eschew iridium plugs, he responded that he puts them in all his cars. He is a tuner of local renown and strictly tunes Supras and GTRs to 1200 hp. My Esprit was his first 4 cyl car tune, I had to talk him into it and schedule 6 months in advance. Doesn't mean his experience with iridium should be taken as gospel, just something else to consider.
  8. sweet boats? here is the gaiter. probably replace the reverse inhibitor delrin piece while there as well cheers
  9. you can do it without disconnecting the rear but it is much easier if you unbolt the rod end joints and cable clamps at the rear so that you can pull the cables out of the hole at the shift lever to connect them to the lever's new bushings. I fought it for an hour before disconnecting the rear. Then it was literally 2 minutes to reconnect cables to gearshift. If you do disconnect the rear, be sure to mark which cable goes where. I used a Jeep CJ gater boot to replace the old Lotus unit. You are a sailor too? Just sold my Hunter 260, preparing to buy a 2014 Oceanis 38! yeah the work is never done
  10. its been 10 yrs since I did that job so don't remember much. Pretty sure I searched this forum then and got some tips. Maybe this pic from then will help. While you are in there, check the HVAC plungers. Mine had been pushed a bit out of their retaining brackets; I had to glue them back into proper position so the cams would fully actuate them again.
  11. many go with a GT3071R. Mine is .72AR. If I upgraded again I would seriously consider Gen 2 GTX3071R. But without other upgrades you will likely benefit only from reduced lag and maybe a second more of boost before air temp safety engages. I'm no turbo expert though.
  12. i had a Greddy hanging on a bracket (just like the oil dip stick tube bracket) next to the oil dipstick. All it did was fill up with water though. I have a red and silver Greddy free if anyone wants. I can't find an old pic of either installed though.
  13. just my experience: every manifold i've ever wrapped rusted pretty quick. The wrap holds moisture from rainy driving far more than I would ever have expected. Maybe a good ceramic coating will help, but it did not prevent rust on my buddy's 69 Camaro. My personal preference is never to insulate but instead improve airflow and use heat shields smartly.
  14. the RC units fit just as Travis indicates. No drama, I converted to sequential injection and COP using five-0 black ops injectors and AEM Infinity ECU. The values I listed for five-0 are for the black ops 840cc/min injectors from that project. I ditched the secondary injectors. I measured and sketched everything to ensure the black ops would fit well. the sketch also includes the rail and intake injector seat dimensions as well as the distance between them (the top part of the sketch) (I have 6 RC injectors that only have 2000 miles on them for cheap if you want them as a result of the ECU conversion)
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