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ragingfool35

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Everything posted by ragingfool35

  1. wow, maybe its an American thing Dave my 90SE made 14 more hp than the Corvette of the same year (30 more if you count the short overboost). the Esprit had the highest specific output of a production car (here) until about 7 yrs ago, and then only due to incorporation of VVT and direct injection. My SCCA buddies and my NASCAR mechanic acquaintance viewed section TDE of the manual and observed that the tolerances match their race engine specs. My '06 ZX-10 has broader range of tolerances FFS! Of course European cars have historically been higher output than American ones...I recon "high state of tune" is a relative thing. with the exception of a few devoted enthusiasts on here, most in the States don't use the Esprit as a daily driver, so that may contribute to accelerated wear here? Welch told me he rarely sees an Esprit engine in great health at 50k miles. no argument here that these are well engineered motors though well, even if our engines don't fare as well as our brothers across the pond, at least our metal bits don't rust
  2. compression, leak down, valve clearance and fuel pressure would be prereq for dyno testing. at 70k miles, my motor was poop and I was really surprised. these 2.2s are in a high state of tune from the factory and apparently don't stay at peak output for long. I would be surprised if mine made even 230 hp in the condition it was in. still idled, cruised and romped smooth, just ran out of steam when pushed hard. if you haven't assessed your engine's health, don't blame chips and mods for low hp, they cant cure a worn motor.
  3. you will be able to put some honk'n big brakes in them! if you still have stock rotors, they will look...out of place
  4. Tom M. and Randy on here use the ISS Pro, I put one in mine. $55 for the std unit with no switch for low fuel light. custom unit with Euro Ohm range a bit more
  5. Sanj has a pictorial of removal http://home.earthlink.net/~turboesprit/
  6. I installed a ring terminal on the ground wire and slipped over the bottom header tank mounting stud
  7. yeah the additional digit at the end indicates the length (I purchased a 25 ft length) Lotus used a generic extrusion available at the time; I guess the double ridge is more popular with consumers. It does the intended job. cheers
  8. groovy thanks. i'll put more grunt on them
  9. I bought ARP studs for rebuild. does the block need to be heated near the studs to remove them? the manual indicates they are not installed with threadlocking compound or torqued excessively. experienced advice appreciated. thanks
  10. I found the paper reciept I replaced top and bottom seal with this 12335A422
  11. Travis had some info on sender I just replaced mine with VDO aftermarket but also installed corresponding VDO gage in dash
  12. I bought mine from McMaster.com I cant find the receipt with part number though, sorry
  13. i replaced all the parts in red when I did mine. I used PUK poly bushes and let me say there is nothing wrong with them. however, after 8k some are destroyed. the inserts are intended as a bearing and wear surface and should not move relative to the bushing material; the whole assembly should rotate on the bolts. which begs the question of just how tight the nuts should be. the rubber bushings can tolerate more internal movement (shear) than the urethane so miles of big suspension movements may not be conducive to using poly and cranking the nuts. I put a jack under the ball joint until the arm was slightly higher than when it sat on the wheels with no people in the car. doing it a 3rd time I would follow the service notes instructions and measure the hub to wheel arch or some such ref point first, then repeat the procedure above until measurement achieved prior to tightening nuts. since I just did them for the 2nd time, I left them all loose enough to freely rotate about the bolts and greased the bolts prior to insertion. I drove 5 miles this way before removing the engine, so the car is immobile yet again. maybe a Moderator could contact Brian Angus about this ambiguity
  14. really nobody knows the bores? I chucked mine before having sense to measure them
  15. what is the piston diameter of the pre-brembo front and rear calipers?
  16. sorry, I never drove in the rain research them on tirerack.com, there are tons of user reviews including wet performance. but only believe owners that had them for 6 months or more
  17. I had them, they did the job fine. just don't get runflats, they were too stiff. I swear I could feel driving over a toothpick
  18. Brian's assistance with my collision repair can not be understated. one call, immediate answer and irrefutable Esprit expertise at my fingertips forced insurance company to repair correctly. Retire in Florida...near my house...where the car is kept... best wishes!
  19. looks nice. I would be interested in a single exit exhaust with manifold would both items then be at the group buy price? just curious, why is this topic in the engine forum? fortunately I saw a recent update and found it, after searching in the exhaust forum with puzzled frown
  20. oh I see a pic of the modified assy in my gallery if you are interested
  21. wow well I guess if you intend to order you will have to do that. unfortunately I don't remember exactly what I did to fit these except remove the extra arm, z bend the main arm to intercept the window lift track and relocate the ashtray retaining screw an inch off center to avoid fouling the bull gear. then later I decided to fit the original arm to this assy at 20 or so degrees off axis via welding in order to center the travel of the motor to the bull gear. both ways worked great I believe and easy to do, but the last method was more proper in my mind. using these, the speed was slightly faster but no longer hesitated at spots on raising, probably due to fresh motors and springs. order left and right
  22. Strange I just tried it n it works. What happens when u click it?
  23. Guy I found the problem. my pulley has a loose fit on the intake cam. the belt is rotating the cam compressing the valve springs until other side of lobe where springs close the valve. here the springs try to rotate the cam in the opposite direction. the small amount of play causes my loud clink, at high rpm, there isn't time for this to happen. try tightening your cam pulley retaining bolts and see if it makes a difference.
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