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Everything posted by ragingfool35

  1. yes, set TDC on crank and dots on cam pulleys facing each other i needed a small flat gear puller, one with adjustable (slotted) holes to grab the cam pulley. I used small bolts and big fender washers through the holes in pulleys. pretty easy blue race belt is made by Gates for lots of cars. JAE in the USA sells them for Esprit $200. Gates says you can double the change period under normal driving JAE also sells the green dot cam pulleys. one is required at $250. there is already one on the aux shaft (oil pump). just swap with one of the cam pulleys the cam alignment was correct before the change. and pretty much perfect after the change. not sure why some people need an adjustable pulley...? Travis has a nice Word doc with plenty of pics for the belt change
  2. I just replaced my cam belt (blue race belt) and decided to install the green dot pulleys while belt was off the job was not too bad, I did have to fashion a short gear puller to remove all 3 pulleys I wish I had installed them years ago everyone says they make such a minor difference so it was low in priority however, they make the car more driveable when there is no boost the engine always seemed breathless until the turbo kicked in the best way I can describe thier effect would be to say that the engine seems more like a 2.4 L with the pulleys than a 2.2 driving around town with no boost much more pleasurable if any have not done it, the cam belt change is the time to do it and only $250 well worth it
  3. my oil pressure never falls below the 2nd line on the gage since I installed a tight fitting o-ring on the chargecooler waterpump... (plug actually) I use castrol 20-50
  4. I purchased the Pilots from JCWhitney maybe google the part number to find who has them for sale or contact the manufacturer on that link they were $60/pair the 3 notches in the retaining ring were about 1/4" off and I had to Dremel longer notches to accept the lights otherwise, they fit right in!
  5. I installed some Pilot 5 3/4 H4 units in mine WI-HL14 fit perfectly... love them
  6. you may be interested in the JAE Blue timing belt a couple of people on here have them call JAE and inquire
  7. no signal conditioning is necessary Jim was good enough to provide an install guide complete with correct DIP settings and part #s and point me to Peter for VSS signal if you PM Jim, I'm sure he would send you the info as well it really made the install a breeze and took out all the guess work and tinkering time I have plenty more pics if anyone needs them from my install Hi Chris, After trying to tap into a speed signal from an ABS Wheel Speed Sensor, and the ECM's VSS signal, to no avail, I finally found success tapping the signal from the ECM's Electronic Speedo Pin Plug. It is located on the ECM's red harness, J2 - B8 pin plug (it should be empty on your vehicle as well). It appears to be the only clean and suitable speed output. You will need to modify a pin (reduce it to the correct size) or obtain the right sized pin, to plug into that pin location. Hope this helps. Good luck. Cheers, Peter 94' S4
  8. from Jim's instructions, I installed similar unit with the panel mount switch. used a pin from a DSUB connector, fit in the ECU connector fine, ran wire traditional route thru RH firewall to CC unit
  9. not an answer to your question, but a general caution as I think I performed a reset with the IAC in the wrong position not long after the brand new IAC rod extended and over traveled right off the end so engine would no longer idle
  10. after installing the Welch electric chargecooler pump and plug, my oil pressure light would come on at startup and idle but would build pressure at higher RPMs. It seemed like the oil pump was losing prime the culprit was the o-ring on the plug it was either too small to start with or had shrunk the 4 yrs I had it sitting on the shelf awaiting motivation to install a new o-ring fixed the problem for those using the stock pump and experiencing similar symptoms, the solution may be the same
  11. Ralph would you also email the info on the brakes to me please? thanks [email protected]
  12. r u serious? $60?! I buy $40 stereo from China, but not fuel pumps, fire supression systems, pacemakers, medications or wheels... they look fantastic, r they still round?
  13. I used Khumos and g-force on mine before buying S4 rims just don't buy run-flats! the Esprit is already a harsh ride, run-flats are bone jarring
  14. I have the EBC yellow on there from when I tracked it with Toyota calipers put braided lines on and the diff was night and day! even with new syn fluid, brake fade was horrid after a few laps
  15. I have same feeling in front I had replaced everything suspension wise and aligned to S4 specs and rebuilt the steering rack and put on new tires it was much better and very communicative; felt like a gokart then I tracked it for 4 hours that slight wear on the tires from the track makes it skittish now read reviews for General Exclaim tires and found others opinions of these tires after track day to be poor even though I can not discern any visible wear on the tires, they make droning noises while driving in a straight line so even if everything else is spot on, the tires can elicit this behavior
  16. funny, I was just thinking mine sounded a bit clackity today... it sounds the same as yours, but did not used to...
  17. I bought one from JAE last month for $65
  18. hi Jim I had same problem on carbureted motorcycle, but doubt thats helpful here if you Freescan when trying to start hot, look for sensor readings not where they should be (coolant temp too low for instance)
  19. the newish IAC worked for a long time (but car wasn't driven much over the last year) it was the problem looks like it extended too far and would not retract it extends to block off the air bypass when throttle is opened, and retracts at idle the motor was spinning to retract, but the arm (I believe) became disconnected and kept the air bypass blocked its $52 at Advance Auto stores (part no 217-52)
  20. i found my old iac and installed along with ecu reset only ran if for 30 sec but idled like it was supposed to the newer iac looked completely extended, maybe too far to retract i watched the counts on it go from 180 to 30 and back and forth on freescan though i'll drive it tomorrow and see
  21. hi Jim negative, but it revs and drives fine, so I would not think that could be the problem what could have happened from the time I parked it to lunch?
  22. car has been sitting for a year with only a monthly drive to keep the tires round over the last week, I have driven it more frequently drove to work this morning fine. start it up at lunch and it wont idle the IAC and MAP are about 1.5 yr old i did just add ZDDP to the oil (no catalyst)... here is freescan log with me holding the pedal to maintain whatever RPM is displayed the oxygen sensor looks all over the place the car actually idles at 100 rpm all the vac lines look secure, pull one off and idle goes up oops, how did I get in V8 area?
  23. I used the super thin double sided tape that OEM use and worked great had to get it from a specialty store
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