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Everything posted by ragingfool35

  1. if you have your car elevated (jacks or ramp) in a home garage, it nice that the hatch doesn't open fully and interfere with the garage door operation. I like the SE manual tailgate lift for this reason.
  2. i thought my flapper wasn't opening so i traced the vac hose from the plunger valve to the diaphragm actuator. it was easy to see from the RH footwell, upside down on my SE. (yeah my AC is never used due to freon leaks). The actuator looks like the throttle jack, if it helps to know what to look for. cheers
  3. if you are agile, you can also reconnect the vac line from the foot well
  4. i have the MSDs, they were fairly inexpensive. i think they are MSD 8224.
  5. i set mine at 1.5 deg to increase centering on the highway as it spends most time there. I dont think you could tell the difference at slow speeds as the tires resistance to steering effort is much greater then; camber should make more difference at moderate speeds. Yeah the plastic thrust bush that ensures engagement of the rack and pinion can be set too tight. I've rebuilt my rack twice, each time i had to shim the cover plate to get proper steering effort at rest. Could be that the kit i used had a plastic bush too long, or was missing cover plate gasket, or my rack is a bit under tolerance, etc
  6. big difference, but original suspension was in very poor condition (collapsed rubber spring buffers, shot springs, dropped ride height, etc)
  7. i tried to do same thing using a similar tool. however, the IAC porting is connected to a common rail for the cylinders i think, so that would foul the readings when measuring this way. attempting to measure with engine running, the IAC would have to be disconnected to keep from generating erroneous variations. i think the only way to adjust them is to remove intake, plug the ports (if connected at intake) and use a flow bench or similar to produce constant airflow, then use your anemometer to adjust. maybe Travis or Dave can confirm or deny that. the adjustments are only for idle, though getting the linkage screw too far off will have an affect above idle as well. i haven't read previous topic to know if you have confirmed, but as many similar topics indicate, stalling while accelerating from idle is often due to high IAC counts and/or improper TPS idle volts (or malfunction). perhaps you have already checked?
  8. my aftermarket 330mm brakes developed judder after not much use. I suspected the PUK poly bushes and found they were indeed the problem. This time i used a different brand poly bush set and problem went away. Make sure to tighten suspension bolts to torque specs and per procedure (or modified procedure: i measured wheel centers to arch loaded then used jack under wheel to obtain same position when tightening). Loose suspension bolts will give same symptoms.
  9. that final 10mm to get the bell housing to mate to the block was probably the crank pilot bearing for the input shaft. it can be tricky to get good alignment.
  10. i am interested in pics of the rear sensors and sprocket if you used a non-stock setup. my ECU has TC capability as well.
  11. Dave did you install a VR on the other wheel to utilize your TC?
  12. i dont think there are any on my SE either, but haven;t checked
  13. old school lesson of always tightening exhaust manifold bolts/nuts while hot, due to thermal expansion causing them to come loose. i would think that would hold true most especially for Nordlock. let us know how you fare
  14. from the manual section PD. something looks amiss, but i havent had my door panels off in a while. i too put PE sheet there for a while, but took it off since the possible incursion of water seems unlikely to damage the all-FRP door and panel.
  15. i am using a custom single tank of my design that works fine. cost was $250 from local tank fabricator. omitted is the CC air bleed line fitting which i would reinstate if doing again. yes, the CC is cool on this single tank system. however, the flat aluminum wall radiates considerable heat onto the relay box wall, which required some insulation to be installed. header tank assy 9 tri drawing.PDF
  16. the module is located on the bulkhead under the bonnet. the solenoids:
  17. could be faulty or has poor/intermittent contact with ign-switched 12v wire
  18. aftermarket alarms/keyless entry systems use a time function after ign key on to autolock. all of mine can disable this function by pressing fob buttons in a certain order (as indicated above), each system uses different programming buttons and timings though, so you would need the instructions
  19. the foot pedal will start and end in the same place, the stroke of the cylinder is the same. the slave cylinder will have reduced travel resulting less clutch separation, but there is likely enough travel to disengage fully
  20. you could use a different bore master cylinder to achieve an easier pedal wilwood makes them
  21. here you go lotus Esprit injector dimensions.xlsx
  22. are we talking about the cover? i have installed mine 40 times and hate it. the problem occurs on the left side where the AC duct raises the cover into the windshield and causes a jam. Sitting in the driver seat, insert the cover from the passenger side, starting with the cover pointing at the front passenger wheel. move it to the drivers side while rotating it so that it almost faces fwd. make sure the AC duct hose is glued onto the vent with tenacious glue (i used the urethane sealant used to secure the stationary glass windows to the car), then you can feel free to pull hard down and rearward (temporarily collapsing the AC duct hose) to get the cover to pop into position. See Sanj's photo instructions in the link Travis posted above. hope that helps
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