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ragingfool35

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Everything posted by ragingfool35

  1. PUK has some or you could just get a new turbo-back exhaust from Alunox
  2. Dave some new bearings supplied in the USA squealed after a very short time, someone opened one and found no lubricant. I reduced the tension on my blue belt to rid the whine. the two sounds are not the same however. the belt zings and whirs, the bearing has more of a squeal. certainly easier to distinguish between the two when one has had the privilege that I had to hear them both the common belief and mine too is that it does not stretch as much as stock belt, so if tension is set cold to stock spec, there is too much tension at engine operating temperature. after a short use (4k miles), I disassembled engine to find that the 1st main bearing had serious wear only in the direction of the head. perhaps a more scientific method would be to measure the tension of the stock belt with engine hot, install and tension the blue belt to same measurement also with engine hot. then measure blue belt tension with engine cold for future reference. not a perfect method, but a rational start
  3. no that is the "plastic ball joint cushion" noted in Travis' pic. the pic that says "white plastic parts" shows the cup, spring and cover plate I was referencing. in USA, JAE sells a "steering rack rebuild kit" that contains all these parts that are not listed individually. I don't know what Travis' experience was, but mine and a few others who have rebuilt the rack, did not find fault with the track rod plastic cushions Lotus Margues does not list the cup and spring for the rack and pinion lash an easy way to tell if this is culprit is to remove the gasket from the coverplate and reinstall the coverplate if the play is no longer present, the cup (and spring) needs to be replaced
  4. the rack assy has a cup the engages the rack gear to the pinion. the cup is plastic and there is a strong spring. if the cup or spring is worn there is too much lash resulting in play at the wheel. normally, this should not happen, but twice on my rack I have had to replace the cup. it's a quick job, just 2 bolts, the rack remains in place.
  5. if you are staying with the 4-2 non sequential setup, use injectors of the same flow rate, even if you get new ones. does the MS3 drive both high and low impedance drivers? If you decide for sequential injection, now is the time to make the changes, not later. I can send you a part list for the 2 mods you need for sequential, then you need 4x 800 to 840 cc/min injectors and ditch the secondaries. I purchased five-o motorsports black op injectors (high impedance) which have all stainless internals (for flex fuel) and response times equal to the old peak and hold units. they market them as having smaller droplet size (always desirable) but narrow cone (engine setup specific what cone size works best) my mods are not complete so I cant speak intelligently about them yet yes its confirmed from my logs and the local tuners that 750cc/min will support 350 hp (the stock system uses 2x380 cc/min) I currently am using brand new RC 370 injectors (for sale now) and a Walbro GSS340 pump. you can go to www.injectordynamics.com and click on their fuel flow calculator to get a good idea (there are pics and calcs in my spreadsheet) rule of thumb is to stay below 80% injector duty cycle at max rpm
  6. Cam you wont need higher flow injectors with your mods. with my mods, the highest PW is 15ms, 20ms is a standard acceptable limit before needing a higher flow unit. Welch used to rebuild the stock turbos similarly with great results, though I don't know the specifics of the wheels. if you haven't purchased the manifold yet, you can spec the flange to match any turbo you wish. you have my (Welch's) turbo part number, ATB can provide a different housing with same or better performance, esp with twin scroll option since Welch no longer supplies turbos, he may divulge the specifics of his rebuilt stockers if you ask
  7. let us know how your conversion goes I looked hard at MS3 Pro but for about the same $ got an AEM Infinity 6 mainly because all the tuners in the area are AEM proficient and it tunes via VE like todays stock ECUs are you planning on being able to convert back to stock ECU for some reason? are you going sequential and COP? if so PM me for part numbers and drawings to make the transition easier
  8. I created a pin map for my SE for my conversion to AEM Infinity 6 EMS generated from EMH4 if you need it, PM me
  9. if you are seriously concerned, Tom and Randy have fully rebuilt engines for sale in Florida
  10. the core seems to be a standard size so there may not have been much of economical choice for Lotus. the cross section area for air is probably slightly larger than the inlet area. probably most desirable is to have the areas very similar and the cores in series instead of parallel as with the larger chargecoolers...if only another core could fit where the secondary injectors go. quite likely the front exchanger can deal with the extra heat with the assumption that high boost occurs at significant road speeds. I would love to see some comparative data with same turbo and boost levels. I doubt the decrease in MAT slope is worth the cost IHMO.
  11. assuming your boost transducer is functioning properly: check your wastegate actuator for proper operation check wastegate for proper seating check for leaks in intake system check for leaks in exhaust manifold lastly, turbo may be malfunctioning
  12. Espritmon reports MAP 1.05 and BARO .99 that's more comforting thanks fellas
  13. hmm well I guess that's somewhat comforting In the other peoples Freescan, were their BLMs 128 or there about? i'll try Espritmon and see if it reports differently what effect would using the same sensor for MAP and BARO have on fueling?
  14. fair enough but they should read the same with engine off do yours?
  15. my Esprit seems to be compensating for lean condition always, like its looking at the wrong cell. with ignition ON but engine not running and no hoses attached, Freescan reports MAP .92 and BARO .85. all internet sites report current conditions in my area 29.95. . I swapped new MAP and get same reading. another new MAP same reading. plugged in MAP to BARO plug and get BARO .92. MAPs are 12569241 which come up as the latest PN for 16009886. I have no idea what the BARO sensor is I checked internet again after Freescan for current readings so that timestamps showed no change during Freescan observations, no weather to make baro change in the area. are these new parts manufactured 15 yrs ago and no longer accurate? is Freescan reporting BAR? thoughts?
  16. sounds like Travis nailed it. loosen the screws on the TPS and with Freescan running, manually turn TPS until correct voltage is indicated per service notes (I think .55v to .7v) then tighten screws. if cant achieve range, replace TPS. afterward, run car to temp and verify TPS voltage then observe IAC position counts. there is a procedure in service notes to adjust IAC. if adjusting the throttle stop screw is necessary, make very small adjustment, drive the car for a while, and observe IAC at idle at end of drive. Travis is correct when he cautions against large adjustments as the engine thermal expansion cause significant and continuous variation in the actual gap in the throttle plates
  17. service notes for 90SE indicate IAC at 20 to 40. Freescan manual indicates "40 to 70 now". all the Esprits I have seen including mine are set 65 to 70. which is correct? I set mine to 35 after engine rebuild and it thinks it's running lean. of course I have checked for leaks and found nothing. the injector pulse width is determined from table in ECM based partly on TPS. I'm wondering if setting IAC back to 65 will adjust AFR command richer accordingly. adjusting throttle plate stop screw for IAC operation is somewhat of PIA
  18. interesting, I have RR6 chip and big turbo and boost control after resetting the ECM is smooth and spot on
  19. I used the 30R9 5/16" and 1/4" for return line with some black PE braid and fuel injection hose clamps, reused the fittings. I thanks Amazon had the fuel line cheapest. also replaced the O-rings with ones from JAE
  20. Welch now recommends the GT3071R turbine AR 72 for cosworth special turbine housing cosworth AR 72 comp housing 2385 in, 200 out, T3 spool quick, 1.2 bar holds for as long as I can responsibly keep foot planted turbo is unreasonably heavy though IMHO total cost is 1650+tax and shipping, including oil and water fittings and new oil return hose
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