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ragingfool35

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Everything posted by ragingfool35

  1. Mike can you send me some pics of yours installed? where did you locate the antenna and how did you enlarge the speedo hole?
  2. I just got one but have not installed. pretty neat, thanks for the suggestion
  3. optimally, measure the unworn thickness, but the thickness where the pad engages the rotor will be fine for selecting pad thickness. email [email protected] he is very responsive and can answer questions on pad material selection for your type of driving and eliminating the squeal as well as sale you the pads you choose
  4. update um, had to rebuild engine right after finally getting brakes installed. (also a general restoration insued) anyway I only have 1k miles on the brakes (and engine) but so far good balance and great pedal feel. a little groan when breaks first applied cold, but have not noticed any noise around town. I have not performed any panic braking either, but hard braking makes my seatbelt really tight FWIW another Esprit owner drove my car and commented that he liked the brakes (Randy has AP fronts on his) but his experience with my car was limited to fairly easy braking for my purposes, and with limited miles, I will say that I am very happy with the $2700 upgrade
  5. I have Wilwood superlight 4 pistons on all wheels. Revolution Brake supplied the kits, but anyone would likely need to know the pad part numbers or the Wilwood caliper part number and the rotor thickness to provide correct pads
  6. use t-bolt or, for small dia silicone hoses, fuel injection clamps. silicone takes a lot more force to compress with a clamp than rubber. also the worm drive clamps cut the silicone right under the screw. hard to see but I learned the hard way, fully half of my hoses were cut there. the t-bolt and fuel injection clamps are designed specifically to avoid these problems. they are all over ebay
  7. McMaster carr stainless steel, black, 1/4" mesh I think
  8. I had it aligned after I rebuilt the rack to toe out. I think I replaced all the bushings a year or 2 later. there was no indication that the bushings were worn when I took them out, no cracks or slop that I could discern. on the other hand they were probably 16 yrs old. the shocks and springs were definitely toast, the car was probably an inch or more lower the specs in the manual. difficult to pin down contributing factors, however it was rock steady at speed before rack rebuild/alignment and again after new suspension and realignment perhaps toe out works better with more trail
  9. yeah bad idea. the turbo is about as far from the engine mounts as you can get so the position delta at extremes might be horrid and it wouldn't take much to ruin the day. easiest would be a strap from the rear CC mount (on top side of the CC mounting flange) to the top clocking bolt, using the CC rubber isolation and the CC itself to distribute the load between its 2 mounts. it would be nearly vertical though, so the 2 studs would take the brunt of the duty. my concern was that over time either the rubber mounts will give way or the cam thrust studs would pull out or otherwise become damaged. comments on that idea? im going to cbore the holes on the turbo outlet to allow a tbolt clamp to fit on the turbo side CC coupling. that may help a bit. don't know yet about spool time, engine is too new. I think some other guys on here have the GT3071R but not sure if same turbine size. I hear it has no lag. I hear the Alunox manifold has no lag. if this was a DeLorean, it might travel backwards in time...
  10. I'm thinking this will perform both functions better than anything else, stabilize and support weight. picks up the cross brace bolts and uses a simple muffler hanger (or spring) to pick up the top downpipe bolt (alternatively the top turbine housing clocking bolt for better center of gravity). anyone see any cons to this idea?
  11. one thing still bothers me, the pulley should still not wobble when sandwiched between the crank bolt washer and the timing pulley?
  12. Dave the turbo was recommended by John Welch. Garret came out with a Cosworth housing for the 3071 that was bolt on for the Esprit. its the Cos housing that is bulky. the Esprit is the only turbo I have experience with, so keep in mind my ignorance. it seems like they cast the housing for a bigger turbine and machined it for smaller units and didn't remove any of the beef afterward. looks like the same turbo with a non-Cos housing would be much lighter from the pics of the options on ATP website. also it was pretty affordable, I would rather keep it if I can make it work with the manifold. anyway, I did convey that to Leon in recent email after I read your post about the design parameters. with the loss of the CC coupling support, a rag joint support suspending from the chargecooler mount or something like a muffler hanger would seem ideal? could also do something like a small coil spring support similar to the Alunox stabilizing bar. both would be soft support. if you have any more input, it would be welcome. (after temporary fix with a bolt on bracket for top of stabilizing bar, the bottom bolt sheared after 30 miles. it was an old used bolt though) All (directed at no one!) the manifold is the best yet; its an honest and experienced effort with honest aftersales support. it's performance is undeniable, but don't forget it isn't factory, its still in development and early buyers of anything will always be part of that effort. make any such purchase with your eyes open. Personally I feel lucky that another manifold attempt was undertaken after the previous results and have no regrets with my Alunox purchase however it turns out. (super happy with the exhaust system they supplied as well)
  13. Dave to fit my 3071 I had to cut off/shorten the barbs/ribs on the CC inlet and turbo outlet and t bolt clamps would not fit (on the turbo) there is only 7/16" nipple to grab the coupling now. I'm dubious there is enough clamping force now to suspend the turbo. did you have to modify your setup at all? it's moot but I would be interested in any pics you have of your turbo installation. I am not fluent in turbos, the 3071 with the Cosworth housing is a honk'n lump of casting; I was surprised by it's weight, maybe 20 lbs also, there was no fillet weld on the bottom of the bracket, just a groove weld on the top. is yours the same? I could barely get the nut on the bolt with a thin wall socket for the closeness of the bracket so I imagine that was why the fillet weld was omitted. I suggested a bolt on bracket (formed, not welded) to Leon and he replied that was his plan as well
  14. Leon did respond immediately indicating he was thinking along he same lines as I was: a bracket not welded but mounted using the turbo-to-manifold bolts. He indicated he was going to send out kits FOC to owners. I cant remember if that is the orientation that the unit arrived, but I did move it to the other side and made a temporary repair bracket as noted above. There was no preload on the support, the eyes lined up perfectly and the arm could be rotated by hand once installed. I would suspect vibration as the culprit before anything else. Sometimes during my 400 mile break-in, the engine ran so smooth I thought it was electric; other times, the interior would buzz madly thru 2500 to 3000 rpm. im checking on that. The manifold is high quality, but uses very thin tubing and I am using a heavier GT3071 turbo. Thin wall, esp with a stainless alloy, is key to preventing stress from thermal expansion. I believe the Alunox manifold would last a very long time if it wasn't also holding up a heavy turbo cantilevered. I was also thinking of a second support attaching horizontally the same way the existing support does. This would allow fore and aft movement for expansion, but not up and down. The cast manifold is very thick and rigid, even hot, and could support the stock turbo sufficiently. I'll run these ideas by Leon. thanks for all the replies. i'll you updated. it's a mad world out there...stay sane and friendly in here! all we have is each other
  15. I got 390 easy engine break-in miles on my manifold and the turbo support mount broke at the weld. anybody else had this happen?
  16. I made this combined tank and catch some flak about it. works fine so far though header tank assy 9 tri drawing.PDF
  17. interesting I just had a new rad core installed while doing my engine rebuild. the car used to stay steady at 82 but now mostly 78ish and fluctuates more than before. this in the hot Florida weather. freescan corroborates gage
  18. conversion from mm in manual to deg used in US comes up now and then. I got these numbers from the (former) Lotus dealer in Florida, but don't take as gospel 1988-93 Esprit front camber -.7 to -.2 deg caster 1.0 to 1.5 deg toe 0.0 to 0.15 deg cross caster -.5 to .5 deg total toe 0.0 to .30 deg rear camber -.8 to -.3 deg toe .15 to .30 deg total toe .30 to .60 deg 1993.5 to 2004 Esprit front camber -.8 to -.5 deg caster 3.0 to 3.4 deg toe -.10 to -.03 deg cross camber -.2 to .2 deg cross caster -.2 to .2 deg total toe -.20 to -.07 deg rear camber -1.1 to -.7 deg toe .13 to .27 deg cross camber -.1 to .1 deg total toe .27 to .53 deg
  19. I bought 2.5" Alunox with 27x6 round muffler. it sounds very much like above video. very light and super easy to fit. plus has the flex coupling in the downpipe. not cheap but happy with product
  20. little known fact: Lotus was conceived as part of Satan's "Hell on Earth" program, whereby the cars were diabolically designed to cause frustration, excessive cursing and even to extract human blood. the list of initiatives of the Hell on Earth program is too long to list here, but Ethanol in gasoline is the latest and most successful yet
  21. wow, maybe its an American thing Dave my 90SE made 14 more hp than the Corvette of the same year (30 more if you count the short overboost). the Esprit had the highest specific output of a production car (here) until about 7 yrs ago, and then only due to incorporation of VVT and direct injection. My SCCA buddies and my NASCAR mechanic acquaintance viewed section TDE of the manual and observed that the tolerances match their race engine specs. My '06 ZX-10 has broader range of tolerances FFS! Of course European cars have historically been higher output than American ones...I recon "high state of tune" is a relative thing. with the exception of a few devoted enthusiasts on here, most in the States don't use the Esprit as a daily driver, so that may contribute to accelerated wear here? Welch told me he rarely sees an Esprit engine in great health at 50k miles. no argument here that these are well engineered motors though well, even if our engines don't fare as well as our brothers across the pond, at least our metal bits don't rust
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