EXCEL V8

In theory the carbs should never over-fill if the needle valves are working correctly and the fuel pump pressure is correct. I'd start by checking the float heights, renewing the needle valves and checking the fuel pressure. A new fire extinguisher also sounds like a good idea!! You can remove the distributor risk by going to mapped ignition with coil-on plug/wasted spark ignition coils (expensive!) Pete

The dizzy (and it's associated sparks) is directly below where the petrol drips off the carbs. Maybe the culprit? Really sorry to hear about the fire. I still own the (quite large) fire extinguisher that came with my first Excel nearly 20 years ago - it had had an under bonnet fire before I bought it. Pete

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Chris is right - the door card is effectively "hung" on the top of the fibreglass door skin by a small lip on the door card itself. Pull out at the bottom and lift. Pete

And great number plate! 😀 Pete

Sorry - should also have said that to replace the oil seal you have to remove the bearing from the shaft by grinding/cutting the retaining collar off. This is a major undertaking as you need bearing pullers to remove the bearing and to replace the retaining collar it has to be heated to cherry red before sliding back onto the shaft and holding down in a press until cool. You can avoid this by buying reconditioned units, but this is not cheap. However, it's pretty important to replace the oil seals. Pete

You may not need a slide hammer - they often come out fairly easily. ISTR that the bolts holding the retaining plates are metric fine - M8x1.00mm? Make sure you read the notes in the manual about the required "nip" on those bearing retaining plates. When replacing these I put a small chamfer on the end of the diff tubes to help the o-rings slide in without damage - the edges are rather sharp. Take the opportunity to replace the oil seals as well - they are prone to leak - possibly because of the heat associated with the inboard brakes. If you decide to take the diff cover off make sure yo

You may need different mounting bracketry for the Lucas unit. Pete

I think the Chrysler unit was only fitted to cars with a/c - it will be a matter of finding something that physically fits, unless you're happy fabricating brackets etc.. It also has a separate voltage regulator - most alternatives will have one built in; just a matter of altering the loom to suit. I inherited parts of a Chrysler alternator with my resto project - if you manage to find the problem some of the bits might help. Pete

Far too late here -sorry! May help in the future. This is the tool I made to hold the hub while undoing/tightening the nuts on my Elite: It made removing/tightening the nuts pretty easy with no damage to the studs. The end of the bar sits on a suitable block of timber - one side or the other depending on whether removing or tightening. Pete

It will make a great restoration project for someone. Looks like a fundamentally sound car. Pete

Just noticed on fleabay what looks like the correct part from Lotusbits - check out item number 283894504640. Pete

Hi Guys Looking for a nearside headlight pod for my Elite resto - mine appears to be twisted. At least I hope it's the pod and not the body!! Thanks Pete

Hi Terry 2.75"/70mm from centre of ball pin to end threaded part. Your chassis is looking fantastic BTW! Pete

Anything can happen with bits from SJ. I'll measure my old ones tomorrow - see if there is much difference. Pete