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EXCEL V8

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About EXCEL V8

  • Rank
    LOTU

More Info

  • Name
    Peter Boole
  • Car
    1974 Elite
  • Modifications
    Total restoration
  • Location
    Nottingham

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  1. When Spyder used refurbish standard chassis they used to add a strengthening piece under the front cross-member - it was curved - like a section of pipe welded along the entire width of the cross-member. Great work on the diff etc.. I put an LS1 in my trackday Excel a few years ago - 490hp at the flywheel! I used a BTR hydratrak diff in that, but you need CV's with it. Pete
  2. Hi Rob - foam is OK, it's the leather that's poor. The passenger side seat isn't too bad and the driver's side back is reasonable, but the driver's side "squab" is quite worn. It will eventually need recovering but I can't afford that yet! If I could find a good base - squab - I would have a serviceable set. Pete
  3. Yes - I meant cushion as well. My frames need painting but are solid. Pete
  4. OK, thanks Tony. It's a good base I need. Pete
  5. What are you doing with the seats Tony? Pete
  6. I like that removable link between the diff pickup points. Pete
  7. Fantastic job Roland! Looks like new. Pete
  8. I've taken the opportunity to rebuild my drive shafts with Hardy Spicer 163s - described as "wide-angle heavy duty". It'll probably be another year before they get tested though . Pete
  9. It was a long while ago but I'm pretty sure it was one pump/two tubes. Pete
  10. My original post was just to explain my "so that's how it works" moment! I'm not trying to alter the basic set-up at all - as you say Richard it may be flawed but it's fundamentally sound. The talk of making adjustments evolved just as part of the discussion - making those adjustments easier can only be a good thing surely! Pete
  11. Hi Tom - no, just make it easier to adjust so you can alter/experiment with the settings if you want to. Messing about making up shims to adjust the camber seems like a lot of trouble once the drive shaft are bolted on (although you've still got to mess about with the washers on the forward end of the radius arm). Pete
  12. Hi dunc - you could easily make up adjustable rear lower links using a turnbuckle - perhaps Mike Taylor's Excel kit could be used, or make some from scratch using rod ends (I don't think it would add too much harshness since the diff and radius arm are rubber mounted). I've not done an alignment on an Elite yet - before I fit mine on my restoration would it be worth converting them? I'd be happy to make up more than one set if you're interested, and think it would be worthwhile. What do you think? You're right with the toe I think - increasing negative camber by lengthening the rear link would increase toe, but this could be remedied with the shims at the front end. You would then have easier adjustment of camber and toe. Pete
  13. Our old Audi did, but it had a little pump which activated as required - no reservoir. Pete
  14. Thanks very much Angus! From those figures I can calculate how far the hub centre is from the ground. Pete
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