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EXCEL V8

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Everything posted by EXCEL V8

  1. Which parts are you planning to replace Jono? Perhaps you could post up a list so we can see if the prices seem reasonable. The exchange rate is rubbish for you as well! You may be able to find some useable second hand bits from the UK as well. Pete
  2. Hi Dave Sorry - by tipping I meant tipping the gearbox in relation to the torque converter during disassembly, not just tipping in relation to vertical. The gearbox must be removed along with the engine. At least you don't get oil pouring from the propshaft end of the gearbox like you do with the W58 if you forget to drain it first!! Yes - the process is covered reasonably well in the service notes - section FC. Pete
  3. With the auto gearbox it's vital that the torque converter is taken off properly (advise reading up on this). Inadvertent tipping can break the internal oil pump drive - lots of trouble! Pete
  4. It's going to make a lovely car when it's done! Will be following your progress 🙂. Pete
  5. £900 to do the water pump is taking the ****. It only takes about an hour to replace the bearing/seal. That must work out at over £200 per hour labour. At that rate it will cost £250k to restore!! There are lots of different water pump bodies - best to get the one off the car done if it's serviceable - corrosion sometimes makes the casting too poor to use. Send it to Lotusbits/Gary Kemp to be serviced. By NSF drive shaft does that mean the stub axle? They are Triumph GT6 parts and are reasonably priced - you can also get a spacer kit that prevents the inner wheel bearing races rotating and spoiling the new stub axle. Sounds like a great project! Pete
  6. It's an electrical sender (VDO) on the late Excels I think. Pete
  7. The exhaust is an easy one. The rear brakes not so much! Depending on when the rear brakes were last serviced it might be almost as easy to drop the diff to service them, especially if the handbrake linkage needs attention - it's a bugger to get to! Check the diff output shaft seals as well- it's common for them to leak oil into the rear brake drums. Let us know how you get on. Pete
  8. Looks like a great resto project! Not too much damage. I love the SA version - I'm even converting my Elite to use the same gearbox! Definitely too good to break. Pete
  9. Hi Torben - welcome! Does your car have the early Delanair system? Does the fan still cut out on the highest setting? The power to the motors goes through some resistors on all but the highest setting where they receive 12v, bypassing the resistors. If the motor works OK on full, the resistors may be suspect. The resistor terminals, oddly, are made from mild steel and corrode. The motors are easy to dismantle and service, but getting them out is very tricky. Pete
  10. Lovely looking car - great colour combo! Pete
  11. Thanks very much for passing this on - really useful info! Pete
  12. Is that a crack in the wheel arch? Mine had one there and I've seen other Elite shells with similar probs. Great job on the engine bay! Pete
  13. Hi Jake - Because I'm converting to an auto gearbox I wanted the torque to come in at a low rpm so I'm using an Eaton M62 blower, rather than the ProCharger/Rotrex type that still needs higher rpm to perform well. The crank will be similar to yours - fully counterweighted but slightly more throw. CNC-ported cylinder head. I'll be using a chargecooler - static compression ratio is 9:1, so should be OK. I'm keeping the aircon so currently building a serpentine belt system for the a/c compressor, water pump and alternator (electric power steering, so no hydraulic pump). Lots still to do! I'm still trying to decide whether to 10-dowel the bottom end now I've effectively got a rev limit of 6k rpm with the auto box - not sure whether to bother. Good fun though 😄 Pete
  14. Hi Jake. Welcome! Great to hear about you building a 2.4 907. Have you left the bottom end standard, or 10-dowelled it? Keep us posted on your progress! I'm building a 2.5 (912, supercharged) for my Elite - slow progress! Pete
  15. What does the thick glass measure Tony? It would be interesting to measure mine! ISTR I may have two sets. Pete
  16. I used a very thin, very flexible, very sharp scraper which I pushed between the glass and the trim until the only bit of mastic still stuck was the very periphery. I then soaked the glass/trim in thinners one side at a time in a trough and carried on pushing the scraper into the remaining mastic. Eventually i could push the trim off the glass. Some bits of trim were harder to remove than others, as you found Tony. I've got a big blister from pushing on the scraper handle for hours!! 😄. Hideous job but I wanted to get all the aluminium trim ready for re-anodising. There are a few bits of corrosion/pitting on the tailgate trim so not sure how well it will turn out. Pete
  17. I've answered my own question! If the clips were originally bonded to the screen they aren't after 45 years! I've removed the trim from two tailgates today and it is a pig of a job. The aforementioned clips are made from brass but there is still some electrolytic corrosion. There are 12 clips per tailgate. Here's a picture of a couple of the clips - one has been cleaned 😄: I'm not sure that I will replace the clips - I can't really see why they are there. The mastic that does 99% of the fixing easily holds the trim in place - even after 45 years! Pete
  18. I'd try straightening one and go to Plan B if it doesn't work 😉 Pete
  19. The Elite workshop manual shows some clips that help retain the anodised trim. Are these clips bonded to the glass? Has anyone dismantled theirs? I think the combination of "Silastic" and the clips is going to make removal of the trim difficult! Pete
  20. Are you running the "semi-automatic" tensioner? A lot of people replace this with the "manual" version. Whichever you have fitted you need to be able to measure the belt tension. Pete
  21. More quality parts from Devon!! 😠 Pete
  22. Mine isn't perfectly straight but only has a 4mm "droop" in that area. Pete
  23. Good opportunity to check the soundness of the upper to lower bodyshell joints in the engine bay area. A heat shield on the left hand side near the exhaust manifold would be a good idea. Engine mounts don't seem to last long on the exhaust side either - worth checking. What's the fuel line like? Rare opportunity to get inside the transmission tunnel! Pete
  24. I think you can get polyurethane ones as well - don't know what sizes they come in though. Pete
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