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Everything posted by EXCEL V8

  1. I'd be tempted to gradually build your own harness and include some more relays for the lights/heater circuits etc. - the switches carry too much current and tend to fail as a result. A modern harness with thin-walled wire would be an improvement but I think you could do better, unless you really would like to keep it as original as possible. Pete
  2. Or is it purple and red - glove box light? Pete
  3. Hi Asmund - welcome to the forum! Looking at your photos I think I'd start by rewiring everything! Most of the original wire colours are available - usually in thin-walled cable. Let us know how you get on! Pete
  4. I can't quite see from the video - are both leading edges chamfered? Is the little "H" - shaped piece in there? Pete
  5. Is the back plate completely flat where the brake shoes sit? Mine had worn a ridge that needed grinding off to provide a flat surface again. ISTR there were 3 flat slightly raised areas for each shoe. How flexible is the brake pipe connected to the cylinder - is it copper (or steel etc..) or flexible hose? Pete
  6. You need to look at relatively short gearboxes. The "chassis" narrows very quickly behind the engine. The original Lotus 5-speed fits, of course, but is renowned for being a bit weak. With a series 2 chassis the original gearbox was a 5-speed Getrag - good gearbox but expensive now. I'm going the opposite way and fitting a 4-speed ZF auto to my Elite. I've moved the engine forward by about 1" to make it fit a little easier (the Excel has the engine slightly further forward), but before I fit it I'm going to see how much room there is for a Toyota W58 (original Excel gearbox) just in case I don't like the auto! The W58 is a lovely gearbox. Welcome to the forum, by the way!! 🙂 Pete
  7. I've also just bought a Clavis meter - second hand from fleabay - a type 13SR. Not used yet but a lovely bit of kit. Pete
  8. I don't ever recall seeing a separate mounting boss either - you could use one of the engine mounting bolts. There may be a drier bracket that is not obvious - it is a flat plate welded to the chassis just below the top edge and a few inches behind the offside suspension "tower" and engine mounting plate. There are two captive nuts for a drier if fitted. Pete
  9. Here's a photo of one of mine (1974 Elite). They are the same R+L. It is 10" long. You can see that the distribution "flaps" change angle from the centre to the outside. Let me know if you need any other shots/measurements. Pete
  10. Mine are in a box somewhere at the moment. I'll try and dig them out this afternoon! Pete
  11. Thanks very much guys - I will look into all of these! Pete
  12. What equipment are you guys using for this - the Clavis gauge is so expensive! Thanks Pete
  13. Try that on a piece you don't intend to re-use. I couldn't get it to work. Had the anodic layer removed professionally on my parts - didn't cost much. Pete
  14. I'm doing that at the moment - it's really hard getting a flat/smoot finish 😕. You can't just re-anodise either - it has to be bright anodising - much more difficult to get done. Pete
  15. I'll be coming to you for tips on fitting the screen Dave! It will be next year now 🙁 Pete
  16. M8 bolts (all the aux housing bolts are M8) are usually E10 size socket. That Torx head bolt is not standard. I prefer Torco MPZ engine building lubes to graphogen and Permabond A136 for cam housings and sump. Pete
  17. I'm building a jig to assess the pressure at which the oil pressure release valve opens. Think this would be handy to know before fitting to the engine. Gives an opportunity to shim the spring if needs be. Pete
  18. Interesting to know - I'd assumed they were all the same. Do you know how they differ Dave? Pete
  19. Yep - it will be the foam in there breaking up. It has the same texture as the foam you get to fill petrol tanks on track cars, or used as filters for aquaria. It's the same in the Excel. Pete
  20. ISTR there are also details on Sanden's website regarding the degree to which the fill hole can be tilted when mounted. Pete
  21. I'd have thought the car should be level to get the diff fill correct. Pete
  22. Hi Steve. I'm pretty sure the rear "stand-offs" will be the same thickness as all the other brackets but it would be nice to have the thickness of the front "stand-offs". I can calculate it from the other components but it would be nice to have it confirmed by measurement. The brackets I've had laser cut are made from a laser scan of an original Lotus bracket. Thanks Pete
  23. Dave/Thomas - is your front a/c bracket still accessible or is it all back together now? I could do with a couple of measurements 🙂. Pete
  24. Does the bracket differ depending on what timing belt tensioner type is fitted, or is the tensioner made to fit the same bracket? What type of tensioner is fitted to yours Alistair? The rear stand-offs welded to the bracket look the same as mine - 1/2" ISTR. I think I may have a tensioner bracket as well somewhere - I'll have a look over the weekend. Pete
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