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EXCEL V8

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Everything posted by EXCEL V8

  1. Your battery cable looks much thicker than mine - or is it in an extra cover? I'm thinking of using a heavier cable too. Pete
  2. The front Armstrong dampers on my Elite looked like that but they measured up perfectly on a damper dynamometer and after some cosmetic attention are now fit for service again: Pete
  3. Spoke too soon - the rubber is also off of my pedal at the moment - in storage somewhere! I'll be using drive-by-wire as well, but I'm using a motorsport style sensor. If you're drive-by-wire which engine are you using - still the 907/912? Pete
  4. I'll take a photo of mine tomorrow. Is that a drive-by-wire set-up you have there? Pete
  5. Mine will be in bits for a while yet - bit of a resto-mod going on! You're probably actually better off making your own than trying to find an old one - the frame is tubular and easily bends especially where the board rivets - one made from solid bar would be much better and more able to withstand attempted theft of the spare. You can also get under my Elite easily - pit in the garage. Pete
  6. Beautiful Eclat!! If you have space below the boot floor then that's where the spare goes. At some point - I'm not sure when (maybe the Series 2 cars?) - the spare fits inside a wheel well within the boot as it does in the Excel. The Elite certainly has a full size spare so I assume the Eclat does as well. My frame is off the car at the moment if you want to come and have a look and take some measurements. Do you have any of the assembly? Pete
  7. Where did you get the rubber window seal from Tony? Pete
  8. Shame you can't read the number plate - see if it's still alive! Pete
  9. Almost certainly ☹️. Usual culprit is aluminium corrosion - the manifold is relatively easy to fix but if the head is significantly corroded the manifold mounting face will need skimming to make a proper job of it. Hope it's just the manifold! Let us know what you find. Pete
  10. No - it's not supposed to touch the sump. If you buy some laying out fluid (I use Dykem) and put some on the sump the strainer will leave witness marks if it is touching when you lower the sump into place. Pete
  11. Excellent - I really like the later spoiler! Pete
  12. Yep - part 5. To withdraw the shaft from the housing you have to remove the woodruff key (not part 7 - that is at the pump end) - this can raise burrs on the shaft. Use an ultra-fine file to remove any burrs (I use a fine diamond hone). Pete
  13. Head - then you can stop worrying about the liners 😁. When fitting the auxiliary shaft make double-sure there are no burrs on the keyway end - any burrs will score the auxiliary housing bores. Pete
  14. Just checked my old mbp/sump - sump drops straight on without the slightest restriction and sits flat against the mbp. Pete
  15. Until you can lower the sump onto the studs without it binding you won't easily be able to see why it's not lying flat. Really it should fit over the studs without any trouble if all the studs are straight. Do all the mbp studs appear to be straight? I've got a spare sump you can borrow if you want to try another. It's not the oil strainer/breather pipe causing problems? I'll dig out my old mbp and sump tomorrow to see how easily they mate up - I don't remember them binding when I dismantled them (5 years ago!!) Pete
  16. Before I tuned my LS1-engined car it would do about 28 mpg on a run using the factory (GM) ECU - but it was only doing 2000rpm at 70mph with the diff I'd fitted. Once I'd tuned the engine to 490bhp I never measured the fuel consumption again!! It was a track-focussed car. Personally I'd leave the engine and box alone in an Excel and get the already excellent handling even better. Spend your money on top-rate dampers/brakes/tyres etc.. You won't win the traffic light races but you'll completely leave them behind on the twisty stuff 😎. Pete
  17. The problem with those bosses is that they point to the back of only one inlet valve - that may be by design to induce swirl but I'd have expected a more even fuel distribution like on the later S4 manifold if they had fuel injection in mind. Pete
  18. I had an aluminium copy of the Elite fuel tank made a couple of years ago for about £250 - it would probably be more now though, what with the price of aluminium having doubled in the last few years 😲. Pete
  19. Cut out all the rusty bits and weld in a fresh bit of steel. I wouldn't braze it, and defo not epoxy. I had to get my Mercedes tank welded because of the rust - it was fine afterwards. Pete
  20. I'm not sure how important they are but the bottom four fasteners are button-heads from the factory. I can't see them using them without a reason but I haven't investigated yet. Do your cap-heads touch anything when the flywheel is offered up? Pete
  21. Early or late type? I can't remember what year your car is. Pete
  22. Thanks Graham - the screen printing gives me some food for thought. I've been looking at laser engraving until now. Pete
  23. Excellent! I'm messing about with LEDs at the moment to create a gear position indicator for the auto box I'm fitting to the Elite. How did you create the graphics Graham? Pete
  24. This is what I've done in my Elite: Sorry - last one a bit blurry, but you get the idea. The "nut plates" behind the perimeter of each hole are fabricated from 5mm stainless. Pete
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