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Paul Coleman

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Everything posted by Paul Coleman

  1. Thanks for the info. I have ordered one of those senders and will get the machine shop at work to make me an adapter to mount it to the tank I decided to separate the body from the chassis today. I'm definitely getting weaker as I get older so I let the engine crane take the strain rather than my back. I don't have the headroom for a 2 post lift and I can't be bothered to start modifying my garage. Plus I can't see that I would really use it that much. If you're stupid enough to do this you need to get the floor of the body 700mm off the actual floor in order to be able to easily roll the chassis in and out from below. So here it is flying... Despite the fact that is was sleeting I couldn't resist wheeling the chassis out to have a better look at it properly. I was pleasantly surprised to see no real damage to the chassis on the top. I know it has a bit of jacking damage at the front on the underside but I'll wait until I have a bare chassis to assess how bad that is and what can be done about it. It looks as though everything that should be there is present and correct which is a relief after everything else that was missing. They obviously didn't get round to raping the underside... With the chassis out of the way I was able to get a better look at the body damage and it's not as bad as my white car was when I got that. There are a few unnecessary holes which will need repairing and a couple of pretty bad cracks although I'm not sure what has caused those... Of course the damage to the front underside needs sorting out where somebody has fitted an S2 spoiler. It looks as though they've bonded steel in which has all rusted so that will have to come out... The underside looks okay apart from that though... So, all in all, not too bad all things considered! I haven't fully decided whether I'm going to restore it or not. I bought it with the intention of fully restoring it but I have recently decided to retire in the summer and I'm not sure yet whether I want £30k or £40k tied up in another toy. If I do move it on I will have the satisfaction of knowing that I've helped to save it from a fate worse than death and there will be no reason why it can't be put back on the road We shall see... Total spend so far £16,973.59
  2. I decided to sell this car and bought another S1... I didn't like the look of all that plumbing in the Turbo!!
  3. Thanks for doing that It raises a number of questions... 1. What voltage are you running the gauge off? I was under the impression the gauges have a 10V regulator to feed them all but I could be wrong as I've never really looked. 2. The S1 sender is 345 Ohms when empty and 50 Ohms when full so it should be possible to add a bit of resistance in series with the S2 sender to see if that improves it a bit? 3. The S1 sender is about 215mm in length but the sender you have looks as though you can just lengthen the arm quite easily so that's not an issue. 4. Is the sender you have one of these as it's the only one SJ sells for the S2 by the looks of it... Thanks, Paul.
  4. Good to know as this car I just bought doesn't have any door seals with it.
  5. The DHL man came today with another parcel for this project. So I now have an original brown leather steering wheel, boss and crash pad. I'm pretty sure my car would have had a brown wheel rather than a black one as the interior was brown marcasite not black. So it makes logical sense that brown goes with brown and black with black. Jon Roberts car (which is the next chassis number) has a brown wheel and is identical to this one. There were 2 sizes of steering wheel... the early cars had a smaller diameter wheel where the edges of the crash pad touch the leather, like my white cars has... But this car would have had the larger wheel where there's a gap between the ends of the crash pad and the leather. So I'm happy that this is the correct wheel for my car... I can't help thinking how ironic it would be if some of these bits that I'm buying originally came off this car! The steering wheel and the road wheels have to be correct in my humble opinion because to me, they are some of the main defining characteristics of the S1 cars. I know the steering wheel was used on the S2 but if I'm restoring it then I feel the need to try and put it back to how it would have left the factory. It's a shame I don't have a steering column to bolt it to hahaha But that's available via SJ Sportscars so a minor detail Total spend so far: £16,885.00
  6. I don't know how the throttle cable attaches to that one? The UPS man trudged through the snow today to bring me a few more missing bits for the project. Here we have a single headlamp lift motor and the plate for the microswitches although one of them needs changing for the 4 pin version - which is now obsolete but I just happen to have one... Then I also have a pair of filler necks and right angled pipes to connect to the tanks... The person I bought them off also had a pair of early rear calipers so I bought those as well just in case mine are toast. The early ones are square in shape around the piston area whereas the later ones are round... The list of missing items is growing ever shorter... Missing items when bought Current Status Rear bumper Found (free) Front bumper Already had one Binnacle Already had one Rear tailgate glass Already had one Rear light surround Found (free) Number plate surround Found (free) Rear lights Already had a pair Complete pedal box Found Complete heater Possibly found Heater plenum Possibly found Single head lamp lift motor Found Headlamp motor mechanism Not found Sun visors Possibly found Fuel filler necks Found Steering column SJ (to buy) Brown steering wheel Found Crash pad for steering wheel Found Boss for steering wheel Found Gear knob Possibly found Windscreen SJ (to buy) Fuel filler caps SJ (to buy) Rear valance Have a mould so will make one Front valance Have a mould so will make one Radiator Possibly found Both sills SJ (to buy) Fuel sender Not found Windscreen wiper motor Found Windscreen wiper mechanism Found Bonnet catch Not found 2 front+ 2 rear Wolfrace wheels Found Front Wolfrace wheel for spare Possibly found
  7. Yes, thanks. Should be easy enough to make, looks like 3mm or 4mm thick. I will have to assume 'The Lotus Position' and measure my white car.
  8. Ooooohhhh could be. Do you have a picture of the other side please? There were 2 different vertically mounted non-AC versions of the radiator. The way to tell is whether your car has pipe #13 or #14 shown here... The one I need goes with pipe #13 that has the small stub for the heater. Thanks, Paul.
  9. Shame that picture doesn't fully show the arm which goes to the cable...
  10. Put my feet up in front of the log burner. Work is very overrated and being semi-retired is much more appealing I plan on fully retiring at the end of June so I can then work on this 5 days/week. No I'm going to keep the single motor as that's how it left the factory and I've never had any issues with my white car. I know some people say you can't raise the headlights above 100mph but realistically how often is that problem? @Matt-watts has offered to lend me a pair of external moulds for the front. I thought it was a daft idea to start with but the more he explained it, the more it made sense. If I just buy repair sections from SJ (which I could do at £300 +VAT) I will have to cut and trim them to fit but it will be difficult to get the shape exactly right. However, using an external mould I can then fit it to the outside of the body and repair it from the inside using gel and matting. Once it's dry and the mould is removed the shape will be exactly how it should be and I won't even have to think about it, so it makes sense and saves a ton of money too I have a spare roof section which came with the car and I need to deal with the 80s sunroof, so I'll either ask Matt if I can borrow his external roof mould or make one from the panel I have. Then to repair the sunroof you stick the external mould on and turn it upside down and lay it on an old mattress and fill it in from the inside with gel and matt. The pedal box is close enough to be able to correct anything that's not quite right and fortunately, nobody will ever see it I don't think there's too much work to do to it... famous last words...
  11. Not a massive amount of progress yesterday and today as it's too cold in my garage! I stripped both the seats yesterday and was pleasantly surprised to find that the seat foams are all good. That's a relief as the foams would be difficult to source... Then I had a look at the brake servo and master cylinder. They're both in a bad way but the master cylinder is the worst of the two. It's very rusty and seized solid... The servo is a little better... I had the master cylinder of my white car re-sleeved in stainless steel by and they did a great job so I think I'm going to send them the master cylinder and servo and let them see what they can do with it. That should chew through the best part of £450. I might rebuild the brakes myself or again send them those as well. A couple of missing bits turned up today, namely a pedal box and a windscreen wiper motor and mechanism... the pedal box is actually out of an S3 but it's only the accelerator arm where the cable attaches that's different. So I will need to fabricate a new arm at some point but that's a long way off being a priority! Then it was onto ignition locks/switches. this car came without a key and to get a key cut for it (without any numbers on the barrel) was going to be awkward. But I had the ignition lock from my white car which is a very early car and they had a different electrical switch which is long obsolete. So, after a bit of hunting I found it in the garage loft and low and behold it still had the original key in it and the mechanism works fine. So I drilled out the pin the holds the barrel in the lock and swapped it over. So now I have a working lock with a key and it didn't cost me anything - every little helps The early locks (the one on the right) have a different electrical switch... But never mind as I have robbed my old lock of its barrel and I now have a working later style lock that I can actually get a switch for from SJ Sportscars, so I'm very happy about that. Again, small victories... So my wanted list is growing ever shorter now and I've nearly found everything that's missing. There are only a few more items to find and I should be good to go. I just need to source... 1. The single headlamp lift motor mechanism (I've found the motor) 2. A single bonnet catch like this... I don't think it's worth trying to find an upright radiator that I can send to SJ to have rebuilt when I can just buy an alloy one and be done with it. Even if the alloy one is no better I'm assuming it won't be any worse. The spend so far is £16,813.00
  12. I bought the correct brown leather steering wheel yesterday including the original crash pad and boss. A black steering wheel/pad/boss is hard enough to find but the brown ones are even harder. My car had brown marcasite so would probably have had a brown wheel. I'm using Jon Roberts's car as a reference as his is the car after mine in terms of chassis numbers (I know the build dates are really what counts but it's as close as I've got). I thought last night how ironic it would be if the wheel I've just bought actually came from this car to start with! I have also hopefully found the correct heater (fingers crossed) although I haven't actually bought it yet. The plenum for the early cars is obsolete and not available from SJ but I know somebody who may be able to sort that for me There were a number of different style heaters because the demist vents changed from having 3 small rectangular dash vents initially to then having two long thin dash demisters and then later on there was also a demister in the binnacle. So mine is the middle one which means I need 4 hoses out of the heater, not five. Where's my anorak...
  13. Interesting. I asked Steve at SJ about the S2 sender and his reply was "The senders are electrically compatible but the S2 will not fit in the tank, unless it is a very early one. The best way round this is for us to make you a special S1 tank with an Aftermarket sender fitted." Not sure what constitutes a very early one?
  14. I would imagine that it's just a simple moving coil meter with the sender acting as a variable resistor down to ground. If it is a moving coil meter then if you swap the wires on it you will try and wrap the needle round the wrong way, it won't compensate for the sender being the wrong way around.
  15. Yes, not many blue ones about. In fact I don't think I've ever seen one in the flesh although @LOTUSMAN33 has an original lagoon blue S1 to restore.
  16. I have to say that orange is my favourite colour for the S1 and when I was looking for a car 15 years ago it was orange that was at the top of my wish list but I ended up finding a white/tartan car which was my second choice and at £2,000 I couldn't turn it down. I do have a problem with the idea of changing the colour of a car, I would find it very difficult to do.
  17. Okay, as promised here is the spreadsheet which will be used to detail all the costings... Hope my wife doesn't find this post We should have a poll as to what colour I do it... 1. Leave it red with a brown marcasite interior as it left the factory 2.White & tartan 3. Orange & tartan 4. something else - you suggest
  18. Going through some of the boxes today and tried to put things together if they belonged to something... I managed to find all the bits for the tailgate release and put them back together as a unit (you have to be grateful for small victories!)... I did a stock take of the interior and it's all there apart from the binnacle but I had one already that I have been able to donate... The engine is not seized and looks pretty complete although it will no doubt need a full rebuild... The bodywork has been butchered by some Philistine in a number of ways. It has had the front lower corners cut off to fit an S2 spoiler. It has had Turbo sills on it which have a great big pipe at the back end so two big circles have been hacked out. It's had an 'ear' cut into it on the driver's side (but not on the passenger side) and of course the obligatory 80s sunroof. Down the passenger side somebody has deseamed it along the waistline but not all the way (that'll be fun to try and repair that!). The lower section of the firewall has been hacked out behind the driver's seat and there's a bit of cracking and damage in the rear of the engine bay... I have managed to find a pair of ABS rear light surrounds and an ABS number plate surround. I already had a pair of rear lights I can donate... I have a boot full of electric string... All 4 corners have the suspension and brakes (the front brakes are in one of the boxes). It's funny but there always seems to be a brand new set of brake pads whenever you buy a car like this for some reason... It would have had an upright radiator (long gone and no longer available other than an expensive alloy one) but the twin cooling fans are still there... The chassis doesn't look too bad although it's had its fair share of jacking damage at the front as most of them have. So I'll probably cut that section out and weld a new bit in... Both doors are complete and the window mechanism for one of the doors is not fitted but it is present and correct... Unfortunately they both have aftermarket wing mirrors... I need another one of these, so if anybody happens to have one they're willing to sell please let me know... And finally it's not just any old common or garden S1 I'll have you know. Do you think I should leave these? So that's my first appraisal of it, not looking too good is it hahaha However, it shall be raped no more!
  19. Ah okay, well either way it's just a variable resistor from the gauge to ground so it won't make a blind bit of difference. The movement of the arm affects the resistance and nothing else. To reverse it you would have to rewire the sender.
  20. It's been 5 years since I saw mine but the two terminals are normally electrically isolated from the case iirc. The resistance between the two terminals is just a resistance and assuming they are isolated it would make no difference which way you connect it up. The tanks are normally grounded through an earth strap to the chassis but that's just for safety.
  21. That makes sense as the previous owner sold a Federal car and a UK car together. Re sender: yes please. Does it have 3 holes in the top like an s1 sender? Afraid not, pure resistance has no polarity.
  22. Whenever anybody starts a restoration thread on here we always have to play "Where does that bit go?" so here we go then.... 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. there are 2 of the first item and number 6 is solid metal and very heavy. And go... I'm sure some of them are nothing to do with it but I don't want to throw them away until I know for certain.
  23. That's interesting as you're the second person to tell me that. The S2 had Smiths gauges but you still have the original green Veglia ones fitted? This is the S2 one but it lists it as Series 2 from chassis number 486G if Steve knew it worked with the S1 I would have expected it to say so? Very strange... Thanks, it would be interesting to know.
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