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Everything posted by atgnat

  1. add a higher capacity radiator before you do anything else.
  2. have him examine the slave cylinder. Sometimes the ring inside of it fails.
  3. bad advise to suggest re-using old fluid.
  4. spinner, you have to pass a TON of fluid through the system to bleed it. I was amazed by how much fluid it took after i lost my slave. i used the "pump the clutch" method. probably took a half an hour, but when i was done i had less pedal effort than a honda. If your clutch is going, the pedal will get heavy. better to change that before you start mulching gears.
  5. sounds to me like it's a slave.
  6. when the system is bled, you should be filling the tank in the wheel well. opening up the top cap lets air back in the system.
  7. fox valley motorcars in st charles illinois sold me a car that they knew had a bad clutch, and then wanted to charge me $7800.00 to rebuild the gearbox when it blew. Mid rivers lotus in st. louis had my car for 1 year to rebuild the engine. it lasted 350 miles before an install related ring failure cooked it again. i feel your pain.
  8. when you sell it all blown up with those waste gates on it, let me know. i might need a parts car.
  9. atgnat


    i would avoid having a dealer look at it.
  10. stay stock, if they are still avaliable. spend the extra cash on spelling lessons.
  11. you can adjust the linkage at the back of the gearbox. it done right, the shifts have a more positive feel, but there is nothing i have heard of that actually shortens the throw. I am not sure you want to shift any faster than stock anyway unless you love expensive clutch/second gear replacements.
  12. i have a set with the evap holes in them on offer.
  13. the car retains the codes. you may want to clear them.
  14. keep it up. i would like a burned piston to use as a paperweight.
  15. Try these 1. The best way to get the O2 heater, EVAP and Secondary AIR tests to run is to idle the vehicle. I just started it from cold and let it idle until it had reached fully warm and these three bits had reset. 2. As you know the O2 sensor and the EGR were a bit trickier, but we modified the calibration to make the conditions for the checks a bit easier to hold. In general for the O2 sensor you need to run pretty steady on the throttle between 35-55mph in 5th for half a minute or so. For EGR the enable conditions are engine speed above 1500rpm and a light acceleration for about 10 seconds, this should keep the load on the engine just higher than normal cruising roadload and allow a high enough level of EGR for the test to run. 3. I'm still looking through the catalyst monitor test code, but when I did the checks here this test ran very easily during normal driving of the car. I managed to reset the CAT monitor bit just driving the car along the road into Wymondham (50mph limit) The reason that the EVAP was not completed could be that the engine was not cold enough when it was started and idled through to fully warm, a cold start and idle should reset this one. As for the oxygen sensor and EGR I'm not sure.... However if the dealership has a Tech1 that they can hook up to the car and monitor engine data whilst they drive, the window for the oxygen sensor test is engine speed between 1140 and 2200rpm, throttle position between 3.5 and 10.5% and MAP between 30 and 65 kPa, (usually 50mph in 5th gear). They need to stay in this window for at least 35 seconds. The EGR window is a bit more complicated, but in general the engine speed needs to be greater than 1500rpm and the MAP needs to be greater than 45 kPa, but not too much greater because the EGR rate will start to reduce with increasing MAP. That's why a gentle acceleration for about 10 seconds from an engine speed of 1700rpm is enough to reset the EGR bit.
  16. my money is on a junk rad.
  17. try to bleeed it at the top of the rad. if that doesn't work, jack the rear of the car up and bleed it again using the screw near the thermostat. getting the last bit of air out of there is a real chore. it sounds like a radiator failure to me though...
  18. i had them. i liked them better than the michelin's. i am told that the goodyear's are better still.
  19. the new one is a grand. re-coring one is @$300. look at @12 hours to do the job.
  20. that's what i did. b.t.w you will get sticker shock when you see how much the replacement costs...
  21. apply the brakes only when the steering wheel is straight. wait to apex. roll the power on. if you are in a struggle with another car for the same piece of track, pit in and get some clear track. when you are at rest, pop the trunk, and DO NOT!!!! engage the parking brake. don't grip the steering wheel to tightly. remember to breathe. brake earlier than you think you should. drink plenty of water between sessions. get an instructor if they are avaliable. and enjoy yourself. you are going to ruin a set of brakes, and tires, so don't even worry about that. if you have a spare, or worn set of front pads, bring them along in case you go metal to metal and need to get home. bring a small took kit with some poly line in case you have to bleed the brakes at the track. and have fun.
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