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Alex Carter

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Everything posted by Alex Carter

  1. anyone have any for sale
  2. http://www.speedtest.net/result/2331606328.png
  3. Friend of mine is selling this might help some one out on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=140890856845
  4. Thanks for the info guys the engine is out and currently seperated from the box before it goes back in I want a specialist to refit the rear main oil seal and do the belt while its out but was just interested in finding out what a professional would charge . Also just taken the alternator off as the main 12v post was loose and the bearing is a little noisy so looking for info on a replacement I see people upgrade to 120 or 150 amp ones has anyone done this . And finally turbos both mine are shot no sign of originals left owen developments said they can re do mine for 750 plus vat each ! Ouch so is PUK the only option
  5. Great Info from everyone I rang lotus again today to find out whats happening as gary said he d email me monday and nothing came .he stated hes not done anything yet and now I feel like im bothering him . So just sat with a grands worth of usless suspension in a box .
  6. Really bibs everything ive found claims 80 kilos lighter for the 350 and the spring rates are alot different
  7. Thanks for your concern the hub faces will be removed of coating before the wheels get put back on the fly wheel was only milled by 2000 th of an inch the clutch plate will see movement of 9mm in its life I think itll be fine as for the bolts I may change them but only if I find ones toughend for the right use .
  8. Anothe vote for driftcam I have the hd and its awsome .
  9. Yes thats on today s list steve Gunter the hubs were powder coated as one unit I only intend to replace bearings and regrease The shims were not powder coated as this would add thickness and mess up the geometry . Replacing nuts and bolts for shiney ones is not good stainless bolts look nice but snap under stress so kept the originals Only the fly wheels contact surface was milled to re flatten the surface .the clutch basket area was not milled as that would change the whole tollerence the release bearing and fork would be working in the wrong location . The bearing has been checked not noisy at all the clutch is fairly new The rear gearbox seals were not a kit but everyone lists them the same diameter they are not if you re-do as I have done just becarefull to not damage it so you can get a replacement failing that ill get the id from the guy so you can order the right one seperatly
  10. Gary aftersales advised me bibs and theres nothing wrong with 350 handling but my car is a v8 se not a 350 so the cars heavier the springs arnt weighted correctly for my car and the rebound from the shocks wont be right either . Hence why I spent so much in the first place buying this eibach and bilstein set up instead of the cheaper option
  11. Good advice . its ironic that the kings of suspensions should advise this mix match . Im going to go coilovers and tune the car to my likeing
  12. My car had avo s on it and they were not good .I shall order the pro kit from sj instead and return these So how is it ?
  13. the problem is bilstein hedgerly they cant give a date to deliver. lotus have rang them and theres nothing that they use to make a set for me they have to build from scratch basically . now my concern is that back in the day lotus were famous for there handling but these new kits all use the same parts so theres no individuality between cars anymore they share the same shocks so this kit almost seems like an average now not a specific . i think ill send the lot back and go for a coilover set and just spend time setting it up. . poor jim clark he'd turn in his grave if he knew
  14. its not the money the rear shocks were suppose to be delivered in june this year and didnt come they are on back order but unsure of a date could be next year .
  15. ok thanks for the info jon ill have a word with a lotus garage ok time for another update. started on the inside had a sticking stork so found a billy bargin on ebay and ordered two new ones . very anal but the click is so crisp now . the last remaining normal bushes on my car time to get rid and replace with the red polys . so disconected the trailing arm. started to undo the nuts and bolts laid out the part so it goes abck in the right order . and also found these hiding up the top the most rediculous place to put a flexi line not only that a pain to undo without snapping drivers side not looking to healthy all assembled ready to go back new brake line now braided no more fails all done
  16. Some of you may know im restoring my v8 . I have purchased the revamped kit from lotus eibach springs and bilstien shocks . the front set up shocks and springs are fitted to the car . the rear springs are sat in my lounge and the rear shocks are not available from bilstein yet . lotus cant get hold of them as bilstein wont give a delivery date could be a while . so speaking to lotus cars i was told that putting a set of sport 350 shocks at the rear to go with my eibach springs would work .so officially i would have different shocks front to back but same springs . after some thought i decided that i didnt want odd shocks and that it would be better to go with the sporth 350 shocks all round. and keep the v8 springs . after some discussions with people that know a little the conclusion was lotus are trying to fob me off with something thats not right but itll do to get me off there backs . im a little bit annoyed and confused as the whole idea of my build was to refresh the car to its former glory and enjoy it how lotus originally made it as best as possible . now it seems that wont happen because of this problem opinions solutions welcome im not sure what to do spring rates will me different and rebound blah blah blah ..... lotus are suppose to email me monday with a solution but i dont want to be told itll be fine because i dont want fine ! i want right .
  17. really hmmm well theres no seal for this part just instant gasket and theres two bolts under the lip and the rest around the plate .The only aligning i had to do was make sure the seal didnt catch on the shaft as i slid it over but ill look into this ...
  18. this camera is in spain its a scare monger thing sweaping the uk lol
  19. Right another busy day in the man cave . as the engine is now out i started the process of splitting the engine and box in order to start checking for wear and tear leaks and problems . i already new there were two seals gone in the end plate of the gearbox and also the driveshaft oil seals were leaking but further inspection would needed as it was all apart. so this is the current state of the box the years of oil leaking and dust sticking to the casing looking rather poor condition . inside the bell housing rather dry just in need of a clean. also the engine side time to remove the clutch and see what condition it was in . here are some shot of the clutch being separated in bits . basket. two friction plates now the fly wheel note the coloured markings caused by heat spots blue and gold i started to experience some judder on take off so had the plate milled at a local firm to get the plate flat again only cost 15 quid and should cure the judder. right end plate on the gearbox i had already ordered some parts from sj ready for this job so set about sorting a few leaks. when removing the end plate watch out for the ball bearing this will drop out dont lose it . id suggest removing this alan key bolt and pulling out the spring and ball bearing before removing the end plate then with your bag of bits. start to dismantle the endplate and lay it all out so not to get confused . infortunatly the kit is wrong the outer shaft seals left and right are correct the little metal shaft cup for the fork side is correct but the metal shaft for the spring side isnt right the original part is slightly bigger . so after a while of digging and swearing i found a bearing company near me that did a replacement the same size diameter but a little longer by 3mm so more time spent on the cutting wheel slowly getting rid of the extra then sanding to remove all the roughness and finaly adding the tapered edge so is slid in easily. new oil seal . home made tool to pull the colar into its new home. once all cleaned re assemble and smile after a few phone calls to AP i cleaned all the grime and dirt and re assembled the clutch then turned my attention to the back plate.( under the fly wheel ) fantastic wtf is that . after more inspection it turned out to be the corner seal from where the sump meets the rear main plate so off it came . alot of carefull cleaning and slow flat sanding with a scrapper and a block to remove the old crusty sealant. removal of the main oil seal. not leaking but when in rome nice new replacement from the same bearing company now improved . clean the back casing and refit new seal this is the new skimmed fly wheel not all the colour gone and the glaze you can see are the heat marks from use now without the judder . bolts locktite in so they dont fly out . then replaceing the end plate with the new seals you can see from the clean bit what ive been working on . time to steam clean the rest of the box ready for drive shaft seals once my fitting tool arrives. and then my rod thingy broke time to hunt for new joint ends thats all for now
  20. i asked the road oem clutch guy at AP and his answer was 2.5 mm thick across the friction plate so at new each plate is 7.1 mm thick and the sugested replacement limit is 2.5mm thick .
  21. Mines popped out the joint and the balls keep on popping out is there a replacement for this part A082F6196H think this is it
  22. Spoke to ap today the replacement limit is 2.5 mm across the whole friction plate which means mine all good not far from new
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