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Lou R

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  • Name
    Louis Riegler
  • Car
    79 S2
  • Location
    Oxford, New Jersey, USA

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  1. I was hoping someone might be able to help me to understand the V-Belts on my 79 Federal S2. My car is an A/C car so the crank pulley is set up for 3 belts. The alternator has a 2 belt pulley and a single belt pulley for the water pump. My car has been off the road for a number of years and was not running when I got it. Needless to say the V-Belts were not present on the car which has led to my dilemma in trying to replace them. SJ's site has a number of V-Belts available but they seem to be a bit confusing when trying to order the correct belts for my car. Can anyone shed any light on this ? It's certainly possible the existing pulleys may also be incorrect. I was thinking of separate belts for the water pump, alternator and A/C compressor (as seems to be illustrated in the Parts Manual) but SJ specifically states this is an unusual set-up (and the 2 belt pulley on he alternator only adds con fusion). Can anyone clarify this for me ? Many thanks, Lou R
  2. That's gotta be it ! Thanks. It's even available new (a remanufactured part) from SJ.
  3. HI All, Was wondering if someone might help me figure out where to connect the end of a 3/8" steel pipe that runs through the chassis on my Federal S2. This pipe exits the chassis just to the left (facing forward) of the two 5/8" alloy pipes for the heater and then veers to the right (again, facing forward). I know the engine end of this pipe connects to the leading forward edge of the Intake Manifold but my notes don't indicate where the other end terminates. It appears long enough to go through the chassis tunnel and exit at the front of the chassis. I'm stumped - can anyone set me straight ? Didn't see anything on SJ's site that might help me to figure this out. Also, doesn't seem to be offered by SJ. Thanks, Lou R
  4. Mark, The size and pitch for my Federal S2 spare tire hold down is M12 x 1.75. Lou R
  5. Hi Pete, Thanks very much - I've already cut new boards and put them away so I'll have to dig them out of the loft and see if they have the cutout (it's been so long I don't remember). One question - does your battery box have any holes cut into it (other than the holes on the bottom for the battery clamp) ? If not, looks like I'll have to repair those already cut into mine. Lou R
  6. Hi All, Was wondering if someone could give me some guidance on the S2 battery box. Specifically, can anyone advise how Lotus originally ran the cables into the box. My battery box has two holes cut into it presumably for running the positive and negative cables. One of the holes is a nicely cut circular hole while the other looks like it was cut with a chain saw and an axe (see attache photo). I suspect the hole on the left was put there by the PO but I'd like to be certain so I can eliminate it if it isn't correct. Did Lotus use separate holes for each cable or were they run into a single hole ? Just trying to keep it as original as possible. Thanks, Lou R
  7. Thanks guys, Seems odd that Lotus would use different switches in the same car - not the best quality control. Oddly, when I look at the owners handbook where it details the dash layout you can faintly see where the light and hazard switches have the international light and hazard symbols engraved on the throws. In my mind that tells me they can not be ribbed (?). Regardless, from my perspective it looks best when they are all ribbed. Not much need for the engraved symbols since the switch function is engraved on the housing. Just to be consistent I'm probably going to use all ribbed throws. Fortunately, I've got a few spare switches (with ribbed throws) which I can use for parts. Thanks again. Lou R
  8. Hi All, I'm restoring a 79 Federal S2 and have a question on the dash switches. Specifically, I was hoping someone who has an original dash layout could advise on the headlight and hazard light switches. All of the other dash switches have ribbed finger throws but the headlight and hazard switches (on my car) have smooth finger throws with international emblems (for lights and hazard "triangle") engraved into the throw. I'm trying to determine if these switches, in their original format, had unmarked (no engravings), ribbed throws or if what I currently have is correct. Seems odd that these two switches would be different from the others especially given that these switches (as well as all the others) have printed overlays (on the switch housing) identifying the function of each switch. Can anyone who is certain on which is correct please advise. Many thanks, Lou R
  9. Hi Antonio, Sorry ! the 4 bolts that secure the pedal box to the chassis (through the body) are all M8 x 1.25 x 20 mm (each with a washer and lock washer). Good luck getting that one hard one back in - I recall it was a major pain to get at it. Lou R
  10. Antonio, The studs should be welded to the pedal box and are fitted with M8 x 1.25 Nylocs (don't forget the spacers and washers). Lou R
  11. Hi Antonio, The 2 bolts you identified as floating are both M8 x 1.25 x 30 mm. Sorry, but I don't understand your reference to the "bolts/nuts on top". If you can further clarify I can help out as my pedal box is already restored and off my car awaiting its time to go back in. Lou R
  12. Tocus, See attached photo - chassis number should be stamped in the highlighted area. Lou R.
  13. Tocus, The chassis number should be stamped on the rear horizontal crossmember. Specifically, it should be stamped on the rear vertical lip (on the horizontal crossmember) that faces aft. Not sure if it can be seen with the body in place. Lou R
  14. Hi Wolfgang, As you stated the Flowlock is simply in place to stop the flow of fuel when the ignition is cut off. The Inertia Switch (wired to the Flowlock valve) is in place to stop the fuel flow in the event of an accident. Not sure if they were used on the S1 but the S2's did have them. A check in the Parts Manual should clarify if the Inertia Switch was used on the S1's. Lou R
  15. Hi Wolfgang, The Federal S2's had a white cloth braided wire that was the resistive wire for the coil. It is spliced to a white wire which runs to the ignition switch and a white/lilac wire which runs to the Inertia Switch (the safety fuel shutoff). The shielded grey wire runs to the tach. The green wire is likely the ARO. Lou R
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