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  1. It maybe that the gauge ia reading high rather than actually overheating. You should verify the gauge reading first. As there are two different sender units one for the gauge one for the ecu.
  2. I normally separate both if I have to do one as it is good practice from a preventative maintenance point of view. And do it as part of the routine maintenance at a major service for my customers.
  3. Perhaps , it all depends on your courage and skill level. But if it is corrosion as I suspect a new seal kit will not help for long
  4. The most common cause of a sticky piston is the build up of corrosion between the cast iron C clamp and the aluminium piston housing . The two different materials react and the resulting corrosion expands. As it does so it squashes the aluminium housing as it is softer than the cast iron which is actually very strong. To provide a long term rectification requires the two halves be separated and cleaned. This requires care and a tool as it is easy to break the aluminium housing.
  5. I honestly think if performance is the issue and the s1 is slower than an Escort you should try it against a car of the same age and see the difference. It is very easy to knock the early Esprits while forgetting that it is the wrong side of 30 years old. I dont remember many cars 30 years ago that could keep up. That said though I am a purist to a certain extent and love all the Lotus range for their character, individuality, style , history, engineering and place in time.
  6. Can you post a pic of the offending calliper and I will try to give you some help. As if it is what I am thinking then it may not be what you think. 13 years as a lotus technician has taught me this is often the case.
  7. I would start with tps and temp senders before coil packs. Need to know the values of those before you go any further unlikely to be coil packs. I would start with tps and temp senders before coil packs. Need to know the values of those before you go any further unlikely to be coil packs. Spark is most likey a red herring. Also I would check the plugs for gap and cleanliness in the well ie no oil. I would start with tps and temp senders before coil packs. Need to know the values of those before you go any further unlikely to be coil packs. Spark is most likey a red herring. Also I would chec
  8. Hi I wouldn't advise doing that as the boost pressure is monitored by the ecu and if too high will set mil light and cut engine out if excessive. Also the difficulty in obtaining parts for the 2l engine in the gt3 would put me off incase it all went wrong.
  9. Hi Langleytw This is just my opinion and I am sure others will have theirs. I would stick with the 2.0l. I am a lotus specialist and over the years have built quite a few s1 Esprits for customers and it is not difficult to get over 200bhp out of the 2.0l engine naturally aspirated. The gearbox will stand up to it as long as you are not harsh on it. By that I mean on and off the throttle causing harsh jerking which can break teeth off the crown wheel. keeping the 2.0l is better from an originality and ultimately overall value point of view. Having said that there is no such thing as a f
  10. The smell of fuel in the cabin is often one of the following two things though not limited to them. Given the age of the car it is worth checking the condition of the fuel tank vent pipes. These run up the channel just above the 1/4 window over the bulkhead and down the other 1/4 window. They are clear although by now probably yellow and about 16mm in diameter. They do perish and split over time. If split they should be replaced. The other possibilty is corrosion on the top of the fuel tanks. This results in the smell of fuel being most noticeable when tanks are full. Is the boost low all th
  11. Very simple and very common fault. Based on the fact it runs fine at first when cold but not when hot would be the reason I am swayed towards the temp sender. It may also be worth checking the setting of the throttle position sensor as if not correct can also cause problems.
  12. so having read through all again seems it was fine just a CEL on . After the technician was done it seems it was not. I really believe that it should not be a hard fix. Sadly I am in the UK not the US but I think you need another opinion. I would try get the car to someone else who has experience of these cars and tell them what has been done and see if they can help.
  13. The sensors connected the wrong way round did not produce a cel but it was horrid to drive. So if it was running fine before the cel appeared then they were not likely the wrong way round to begin with but they may be now. If it was running ok when first taken to the technician but just a cel on then the fault is most likely related to the work that has been done. Could be a number of things but is usually something simple. A wire left off or a pipe . Coil leads, plug gap closed Injector wire not reconnected or similar. No one like to admit they made a mistake but from past experience that
  14. There is no cover there that looks to me to be the place where the main bearing housing meets the block. They do not have anything coverung the flywheel there. I use this as access to jam a large screw driver to hold the crank steady whilst undoing the front pulley bolt. The hole on top originally had a rubber but so few still do not to worry about it. The top one is for the timing marks on on the crankshaft which are stamped on the outside of the flywheel and line up with the pointer in the opening.
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