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Günter

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Everything posted by Günter

  1. any results - or was thr car sold in parts ? shortcut on O2 sensor "pre heater" wiring , or on sensor heater (internally) can harm your system ..as it was mentioned in one of the comments so was there any outcome with this sitation ? *****( ..ahh - now I can see other replys - as this story was still in my inbox over here in TLF so its running and a cut-oof on relais was the cause - good that you could fix this
  2. ..sounds more like the typical 'dismantle' of a company after Chineese occupation - is this guy from China in any relation to European automotive development or brand history ?? I personally would not wonder if his background is more financial related, as "synergies" often means to take over from other products and brands to create more outcome with less people. Especially as the market chances and investment capabilities for an small exotic carmaker, who still builds the cars in Europe, is not that good - compared to cheap Chineese workfleet. Volvo is bigger in terms of sales and product range, so that's why it is not so easy to transfer this brand completely to China. Lotus on the other hand .. Anyway - an automotive business manager who goes to a relatively small "non OEM" private company, this sounds suspicious. Was he just in the way and blocked the Chineese to take absolute control up to now.. hmm ?
  3. everyone seems to be focussed on starman - I`m just interested to take the Lotus-Chassis back to earth, after lets say two years or so in space.

    As for the engineering interest in me - the temperature and (UV)radiation stresses on the material will for sure cause effects on the car. Those are usable as information for lets say an soon to follow habitat construction on mars..

  4. I had contact with the guys from blackart via fb once.. it is of course an alternative solution, and goes more into my beloved CAD area of drawings What I think it could be good as well to give some positive feeling, that's to have a more "colorfull" scetch style .. in the way years ago seen for the Elise S2 / 340 design scetches in LotusClub Deutschland clubhouse. in my case just more focussed on Esprit S4 and Elise S1
  5. so some premiumbrands have 'classic' support ..like MercedesBenz Classic and BMW Classic ...Lotus has at least a 'brand exclusive' race series and the race-classics support There could be a factory own business in the backup, as value goes up in the collectors market ..more and more Lotus from 1970 up to 1990 years go into the 'value classics' especially if modern cars create more and more awareness for the brand
  6. how is the Lotus Cup backed up in terms of factory support on Cup races ? ..that the "F1 for millionaire" club with the T125 was a short lived thing is clear
  7. Hello .. is there any realistic way to get an S4 series 'Esprit V8 GT' and an 'Elise S1' design print .. signed with real pen by Julian ? ..as the office rooms over here get an official restyle, from an 'temporarily' guest status in our rooms we now get our company-brand looks ..and therefore I have the idea to create just an extra special note - it would help of course to create at least a little awareness in SMT on how I am, what I have as background and what my "tribe" is ? ..as I still not have enough time to get my cars and bikes on road it would help a lot mentally in terms of "keep your dreams" ..instead to run out of the office and shout out to loud on the way things go over here in SOLERA day by day..
  8. years ago there was a story about a (part)rebuild or refresh or something on Nguyen's Esprit in a dedicated section of the factory ..with all the grow in business - is there such 'factory service' still alive - or is all rebuild done normally by us enthusiasts on DIY and privately hired garages ? this question is not to confuse with the Classic F1 shop run by Clive
  9. any news on this ? As Travis told ..918 engine is OBD and CARB compliant with 16pin connector - communication is ISO 9142 protocols you can use any "full screen" OBD diagnostic system, to monitor live data on ignition timing and fuel-trimming usable software is as mentioned the free-available diagnostic software created by Peter Maers most OBD diagnostics who can perform "live data plot" even trigger and store data if engine shuts down, as long as ignition key still is 'on' and connection to ECM is not lost. This means you can copy the "test run" from first startup until it shuts down on roadside on your notebook and load it up here into the V8-group forum section parameters to document should be at least ignition, fuel trim and anything you do not see with own eyes in the cockpit instruments ..as I guess there was newer any indication or warning light in the instrument cluster that warned you on overheat or check-engine or something like this in advance to the shut down ?
  10. "Say Hello and step in" ..OK, long time not here, but was asked to look over. What for me is curious is that there is a complete bank of injectors given as inactive. So, as Mike has already mentioned, the Engine Injector system (engine harness) is feed ground on the bellhousing, and there oxids of steady salty UK weather driving are a bad thing. My additional tought on this would be: the engine block itself needs a solid ground as well ..this goes to chassis and should also be free from oxids on the contact surface, of course to proove the integrity of all small wires of the engine system (ECM) undo the multi-contact ECM connector, grab a small needle or paper clip .. and use the workshopbook for harness details ..this way you can first check that all wiring on its own is intact and usable for test of "injector feed" from ECM use simple test lights, who mimic an real injector, those are available in garages and should be there to find for right type of injector (different voltage / connector types are in use in automotive world) for verification of fuel pressure a simple hydraulic pressure tester is usable, feed via the Shraeder valve connector on fuel rail (RH side) if one of the mentioned fuelpumps is old (normally after around 20 years should be the main pump, the one that does have to run steady) - just bridge the relay that is activated on overboost and on "start up" .. as only ECM activates this second fuel-pump normally. If you activate this pump manually by manipulating the contact the second fuelpump will run even on idle and medium cruise, and hold the fuel delivery on top level if you do this manipulation simply by unplugging of relay, the ECM of course will detect an additional fault and set a code most times it is therefore worth to just swap the pumps within wiring iself - or swapp them over physically in the fuel tank (two pumps sit next to each other in a bracket (holder) in the tank on RH side, both pumps are technically the same) ..this for now - have to sleep some night on it SOLERA Holding is my new employer in Germany, US guys may know what this means mentally ..
  11. Hello Graham, as requested I`m back in the Forum now .. via business PC , don`t tell the Boss As far as I can recall the small section of the original catalyst can house an 98mm dia aftermarket catalyst, and the bigger section something with 120mm dia. Means, as the Lotus factory catalyst, with all its matching bends and curvature on the pipe, is good for an reuse - just cut precisely only into the weld lines (grind them off). The sections of the Lotus catalyst are fitted together with an "overlap" style - so you can put them back together after preparation and just weld the "end cap / pipe section" onto it again. Prior mark the orientation of the pipe section in safe distance to the cut, of Course with some corresponding lines / scratch Points. What I`ve used to pass the German MOT Emission test was just an cheapisch round type 200cell "metal core" aftermarket universal catalyst from eBay .. - where I have undone the cones and fitted just the Center sections directly into the original catalyst housing by weld spots, so you need to read the eBay descriptions on dimensions or drawings carefully The production numbers / verification ID of the original catalyst remained outside, and none could see that inside an aftermarket catalyst (without Registration / type ID) was placed into it.
  12. Günter

    Günter

  13. not sure how you manage to invest into '4wheeled projects' - if you have no job (therefore no regular income) ? ..as this was what caused for me to stop serious investments in car/bike fun ..until now. But anyway - you are experienced on international base, as I understand - so why not apply in the wind-energy industry ? In Europe (especially in Germany) there are offers for offshore services, as so far there is of course a debate about more and more offshore as well as about the wind parks on land - but the existing systems need services and management. http://www.deutsche-windtechnik.com/jobs.html On my search for an adequate job in the automotive engineering field I came across those other offers, for mechanical engineering & 'service personal and wind energy engineering'.
  14. as for 'figure of merit' ..in engineering you have to match material specification, acting forces and momentum ..and in terms of a automobile the relation between 'engine momentum' curve (think about power output and rpm) vs. 'motion resistance' curve (think about the exponential rise of resistance force against a car on rise of speed). Main target is to find a gearing set that holds the most effective rpm-point of a engine and the momentum-curve of that near to the 'resistance momentum' of speed. ..if this is the right way to say it in english Means for every model of car it needs a specific set. So this mentioned spreadsheet above needs to have at least a number of different pages, for V8 and additionally all the different power curves on the 4pot cars, since introduction of the Renault box .. Anyway - as long as the main problems and weak points are adressed it should be good, GTO or Holloway as well.
  15. wasn't meant to confuse anyone - what I tell is just technical background, basic engineering for the home-garage, not spaceage sience. So everyone with a Renault box can service the driveshafts in DIY. All you need is a (self made) precice tool to press rings in, if you choose to fit new ones. And if you do that, just keep in mind what I've told about "weared surfaces" - "insertion deepnes" - and the O-ring inside on the diff shaft. The note about "sleeve type" sealing rings was meant as a help, in case of a really worn surface on a mechanical system, with a problem on a leakin shaft. It is also used on classic car engines on the crankshaft, where a piece of leather or labyrinth type sealing was used in past century.
  16. as said many times in past years: First check that the inner differential shafts (short ends the drive-shafts are stacked onto) do not have to much play, means differential main bearings in the gearbox are set up precize. so those shaft do not "wobble" to much. As a shaft with to much play does have unsteady contact on the sealing lip of any arrangement you put on the end .. Other point is - if you fit "new" sealing ring again and again, allways in the same position (deepnes) into the casing - it will run on the same "wear point" on your driveshaft, hence the sealing lip on the newly fitted ring will wear out even faster .. that's why the mentioned way to 'mimic' the arrangement of oil-lip & dust-lip edge via two separate rings with slightly differend dimension is good (in terms of insertion deepness) if added together .. therfore lips run on formerly untouched surfaces, therfore last as expected. ..same effect if you not place a new ring into the same position as the previous was fitted into (even 1mm change in position can help) next technical point - if you in a hurry to pass a MOT, and you have patience to fiddle and price out the driveshaft and the small spring inside of the sealin lip - undo the spring, find the joint point of the "endless" lookin sping, get it off - shorten one end (the right end of course !) .. attach ends together again and fiddle the spring behnd the lip afterwards (needs patience and at least small modelcrafting screwdrivers or "3 Fingers at a time.." ) - with this you can compensate a problem with delivery time and pass MOT way more guarantied than just a "wash & wipe" with brakecleaner .. as sometimes even the way to the MOT station causes a drip again, if just wiped clean on easy try.. . But keep in mind that a shorter spring means stronger contact pressure on the lip, whereas the physical design and sealing effect of those sealing rings is mostly based on atmospheric pressure and hydrodynamic effects, so it wasn't intendet to be in a strong contact ..so the seal will now wear within 1 month or so and leak even more if you drive with this "manipulation" to long around the streets. But the method is proven by years of practise anyway .. . Other more technical advanced method to compensate sealing problems on "worn" (grooved) surface areas of a shaft: Use the "sleeve type" sealing rings ..mostly used in comercial trucks where long distance replacements count. Those rings do have a own "sealing surface" for the traditional sealing lip - but additional inside of the ring is a fabricated 'sleeve' that suits the original shaft by dimension. This sleeve is pressed onto the shaft if you insert the ring as replacement and fit the driveshaft flange or any shaft in this case into a gearbox / mechanical drive .. so the surface of 'sleeve to shaft' does not rotate relative to each other, it is additionaly rubberised as well .. what rotates is the freshly fabricated sleeve-surface in relation to the sealing ring lip. For this the outer dimension of those rings are the same as the traditional ones .. as well as the inner (shaft) dimension - what different is is the diameter of the sealing-lip dimension (as to compensate the sleeve diameter) example: Final note - keep in mind that the splined surface of the short shafts on the differential do have a O-ring on the base .. means this ring needs to be compressed to seal the oil passage way from inside alng the spline way up to the pin holes (so if you notice a oil leake even with some dots of silicone on the pin ends - think about to inspect condition of the inner O-rings on the differential stubshafts .. you can replace them with different (bigger size as well) it just needs more power to press on the dirveshaft in such case, to align the pin holes ..
  17. As it looks, the pictures shown, are from the old D.Bell page .. I would guess ..and there on his old page was a 'note' that he thanks Ramspott & Brand in Germany for the pictures .. and guess who has the remained main part of the broken shaft pictured there on his desk at home ? .. I've got it from Steffen and Olaf and used it for a technical discussion in the university several years ago. The details of a crack and structural problems can be seen on the surface, and looks of the exposed structure, that's why the Professor was interested as well to see this part as example and reference for the topic.
  18. response time, if you apply on jobs in modern industry is so odd .. automated mail with 'we've got your post in' notes, but after that 4 weeks or six weeks nothing .. and if you ask by phone in the meantime, in most case no one knows that there was / is a job on the career page .. other odd thing is SAP 's "automated applycation tool" .. several companies use - we learn as students how to write up a CV, cover letter and "design" a application-map in international style .. but the companies let the candidates do the job of the H&R-stuff, and the candidate has to fill in by hand (or with a not so "intelligent" parser tool) pages after pages with terms and data about the worklife, studies & career
  19. just as a 'technical sidenote' for interested people, those who know me in persion know that I tend to be a teacher sometimes ..sorry for that .. Renault used to fit the 356/UN-1 boxes in different types of cars, all over the production period as we know. ..so it is logical to have a 'main setup' for the gearshafts with different types of input shafts as add-ons for different flywheel/engine designs in the Renault family. Therefor create the input end as a "slip on" two piece shaft. From mechanical dynamics, and stress calculation on a shaft a "grove" can smoothen out the hard points in the stress curve (tension curve) - but if placed wrong or fabricated in a bad design (harsh surface step, raw surfaces) can make it even weaker. So it is not bad in general to have a "joint point" on a shaft where a other shaft fits or is contacted. Sometimes a small step with a harsh radius change just causes a stress load, to interact as the beginning point of a crack line. Especially if you have a notable diameter difference, or a big and stiff object pressed to hard onto a shaft with bad calculated tolerance between bore & shaft (Hx/hx) - the mentioned EMCO guys will hopefully explain in better english what I mean. So if you look onto the rear end of the UN-1 gearbox with the overhang gear, keep in mind that there is: 1. way a nut srewed on, so this means tensional load in the shaft axis, to press the bearing/gear and related parts onto the shaft. Additionally there is the Nm transfered from one shaft to the other. In one time transfered straigt on a rolling car with engine power delivered to the street, on the other situation the driveline and the engine volume with closet trottle acts as brake system, with a car (and its translatoric & rotatoric masses) running into this and slow down. Means the pairing of gears (as well shafts) has to compensate the load .. and from naturally aspects every gear does have a contact surface with the opposite gear that is under load [if engaged] ..and you know from [technical] shool that every vector of force needs a opposite vector of force to hold. That guides to the effect of gears (gearwheels) who want to get of from each other - but as normaly gears sit on shafts and those shafts are supported by bearings in a main case the gear(wheels) cant's separate .. . If you know have a gear-pairing that is on the "overhung" end of a shaft, so only supported on one side - the overhung tends more to flex [in structural relevant micrometer distance, of course] under load. Now two bad situations are together, you can see them in the well known pictures: A small diameter step on the shaft, with harsh radius change - where the rear bearing sits on.. The existing Nm torsional load from the engine/driveline power on the gearwheel-contact sufaces.. ..and - but that's more or less a issue with garage (or the Renault workshopbook) - a 'overdone' tension rate / tension load from fitting with Nm pretention on the nut, to fit the 5 gear pairing with tools. **** other sidenote: It was my car with a "harsh wear" on the spline of the input shaft - but this problem was (is still) not the spline for the 'two piece joint' ..it is the spline for the clutch plates .. as Renault used what I would call "mouse tooth" profile type that does not hold on for that hard loads of trackday and / or 918 power capabilitys. Therefore the not so 'hard' surface preparation on the AP-clutch plates weared out as well .. two weared profile flanges can slip over and "twist" easy - means no power transfer anymore, and if you park the car and stop the engine, with clutch pedall still pressed you could hear the clutch plates still rotate with rest of rotational energy and "wear of" the rest of the toth profile on the plates. Even metall flakes from the shread shaft profile had fallen off from the openig on the clutch housing underside.. If you study engineering you lean what it means, lets say the difference between a splinetooth with \/ - profile and a \__/ -profile ..until the 'contact hight' is reduced on the profile-shoulders..
  20. haa.. first thought was our Kylie now drives Evora
  21. Hi Bibs, as I know good things are in the ASO sales usually ..I just have to make some more or less detailed words, or lets say basic questions, first to any order. Several (engine) parts do have a **** with a 'machined' note, others have a 'cast' note - does it mean some are bare parts, in the middle of the tooling process and not fully finished ? There is a note 'casting V8 cylinder block' and the dealer-network notes the number C918E0133K as obsolete, and the number C918E0133P on the ASO list as not existend. Does it mean a bare engine-block, unmachined, with rough flanges, without mainbearing caps and without calibrated drillings is in offer now..?? Thing is that 2 years ago I even heared from dealer contact that not even (unmachined) cylinder heads are available anymore. Now there are 41 engine blocks listed, that makes me wonder what it allready is - as I not have CNC machinery to finish a 'bare engine block' to use as replacement. Same thing with an unclear number on the list is 'crankshaft' (C918E0019 L & P) - as the parts cataloge notes the replacement part number for a 918 crankshaft as C918E0019F with a 'unknown price'. That brings me to the question what type of crankshaft is this version with the 'P'-index for a interesting price of 135 GBP ? The note shot peened for crankshaft with the 'L' -index in the ASO list sounds like it has good a surface preparation, to minimise risc of cracks under stress load ..is this a remained part of the GT1 engine parts ..??
  22. Jacques -> startet my Lotus life with age 26/7 ..with the 'gentlemans car' Esprit V8-GT and used it not only for weekends, more so to carry anything that fits in place, even a toilet bowl in the rear trunk ! ..with age of 39 I've got a BMW 735 (E38) with towbar as 'workhorse' ..so how does that fit into your thesis -?!
  23. this picture illustrates perfectly the main problem of Esprit factory-seat systems .. the backrest is not high enough ...especially the 'SE'-type leather seats are a pain, if you have the 'headrest bolster' just between your shoulders
  24. have I not done enough 'tech advice' over here in the forum, on how to find space for a taller driver -? seat spacers (on original leather-seat system, if still fitted) -> undone steering collumn -> repositioned, by bigger frontwall-spacer, reshaped intermediate collumn shaft and a 'cut & weld' on the collumn-body with its brakeout spacers and mounting ..this lifts up the steering system, if you measure on the steeringwheel, around 2cm and moves it at least 2-3cm, or even more, into the cabin - so the driver get's enough space for the knees and you can still use a factory steering and resuse the collumn switch arrangement with covers. If you optimise with a steeringwheel-spacer and/or smaller steeringwheel you get even more room proven & done by a 1.90m guy ..with "slightly over" 17stone
  25. you do not need to take the engine out to replace the catalysts .. nor for the Turbos (for those it would be wise to use a *dremel -type grinder for modelcrafting, to cut the nuts on the manifold studs -the four ones each side for the Turbos to manifold)
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