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Günter

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Everything posted by Günter

  1. Frank ..good to see you had a good summer after all the surgery ! ..so back again to your documentation From the Engineering point of things: We both know that there newer was a plan for 'mass production', and lots of miles put into a car like that with millions of same cars around the world ..right. So it does not count that steady heat transfer from engine/gearbox into those wiper(window lift) motors could degenerate the copper wiring isolation over time in the motor, or the harm the pre filled lubrication in those OEM gearing sections there on the motor gets from that. Even that with this setup, and the 'signal feetback' we see there, via those additional small black levers, that this means even more open and exposed bearing points ..who will get into contact with california dirt and desert sand ..so those will wear and run out of timing over years as well as all those other joints. Anyway -from the DIY point of view it is just fantastic ! ..but my 'spannermans eagle eye' noted the shiny 'plastic lock nut' there, directly on the main axis of the black anodised wiper motor linkage arms, this sits not placed in a good position. So from my point of view (and as my old mechanic master-trainer would say) "this one you need to watch over again young fella !" -there is no 'lock' funtionality on the plastic insert, if the bold it sits on is to short, until you now use additional glue or simply replace it with a more flat type of 'plastic stop' nut. Know what I mean ?
  2. Mark: ..the term "under load" -is this anything different to WOT ? , I mean if I go on the pedal it is at least a 'WOT' situation, even if I only run 120km/h prior ..it is a change from cruise-mode to notable 'load' ..so the secondaries in your experience just do what the intention was, don't you think ? 'Above 3500 with load' for me sounds like a clear signal for the ECU that the driver wants to power up, otherwise the OBD-parameter with the 'load' index would not drastically change, if you are only moderate on the pedal with only a slight change on pedal position in relation to time.. right. the 4000'ish' rpm level is in 5.gear around 170km/h ground speed at least On my 8 + 0 injector layout runs I allways used 8 oversized main-injectors, like you .. to have at least enough fuel on normal Autobahn speed. Without a 'you are permanently lean' warning via the O2 sensor signal level
  3. never trust wiki to much buddsy -but it is good for a main overview
  4. old one: http://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=1585&MAK=1&MDL=15&SMA=0&SMO=14&ST=CV&SC=0 ****** So it is for example different cables, different shifter etc. -the later version uses a long-cable & short-cable layout, and other coupling/joint for the gearstick end, with different 'neutral' position-automatic ..and so on ..for all the rest take a look into the parts list http://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=1586&MAK=1&MDL=15&SMA=0&SMO=14&ST=CV&SC=0 http://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=1587&MAK=1&MDL=15&SMA=0&SMO=14&ST=CV&SC=0 *blah blah -end !
  5. the German owner turbomaster in here, the one with the black V8 in JPS decals that was in a discussion/documentation over here last year -he runs a 6speed box, fitted to the car by Ramspott&Brand, but I'm sure it is simply a GTO set from UK. you can also try to get into contact with him (Kai-Uwe Abel) via the Lotus owners club of Germany www.lotus-club-deutschland.de
  6. johnpwalsh: ..so you work for a pipeline/oil factory ? Isn't there a slight difference in 'risk management' regulations (and of corse, the pressure pulses are different as well) But you are right, hydraulik pipes are labeled, even in the transportation sector -and that is why you have (at least in Germany for sure..) regular inspections on a 'Hauptuntersuchung' -TÜV (German 'MOT') not only for the car ..or truck in this case, no .. also for the crane an other hydraulic-systems added to the truck [load lift, variable load beds, cranes, and so on]
  7. Alex ..sometimes a simple look into the wiki may help you "..ease cleaning procedures, or increase surface hardness" -means a hard suface that does not wear in so much and remains of oil/coal do not hold on so much (both is importand on the stem) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrome_plating#Hard
  8. @Alex: ..the 'bar / lever' method to lock the flywheel is the best and effective one (so no risk to damage the ring-gear there on the flywheel with any improvisations that go wrong..) If you have the gearbox off you can also use the rear mounting bolds there in the engine block as a rest, and fit a srewdriver in the clutch-cage mounting points. Same is if you manage to undo at least one of the flywheel bolts first, use this point and simply fit a bar between one of this holes and one of the rear engine/clutch housing mounting points @Buddsy: ..on the point of 'valve guides' ..sure, the stem is supported by the guide, as the word says ..but I think it is enough that the valve guides supports it with his upper & middle portion (the one above the head cast and the one pressed into the alloy) ..those remained around 4mm there in the intake/exhaust ports are there for the reason that the next available valve-guide size in the market was just this long. And if I'm wrong on it ..after now allready 10 years out of production -I think it would be allowed to get some development background information on it from Brian, so we could ask him ..dont you think ? ..one complication of course is the material specification, as the workshopbook/production documentation notes 'special made' valve stem material that is more heat resistant if I read it right ..so maybe that is why the stems on the 918 engine can be so small and light, think the traditional sodium filled ones are normally heavier and bigger. The valve guides are specified as we can see as a 'sintered' type, but that is mostly good from point of fabrication tolerances and the effect of mixing materials that do not form an traditional alloy in other ways of production technics ..and of course sintered mixtures have the benefit to be good carriers for lubrication, as you can store oil in the structure. From the replacement cost factor, and as most of our cars are not driven like professional racecars, I think it would also be possible to fit an cheaper (and therefore more traditional) arrangement with simple bronce valve guides and other valves. @sailorbob: ...not sure that the fault there on the engine from Alex was the same that forced Lotus engineering to change from the smaller idlers and shorter 107tooth belt to the now 'common' arrangement in the 918 line. For me it looks more like a last minute cost factor problem in the supplier line, or something with 'short call' changes in the development early on production start. As none has ever mentioned so far an serious number of faults on the 107tooth layout, or customer claims that would have caused something like this change in the V8 Esprit history. Whereas on the other hand we all have read about liners & Loctide vs. Hylomar, and the belt tension recall/ service note story about the change in tension setup within the later production life of the 918 engine, and also have experienced or read the reports about failed intermediate shaft bolts, or for example the factory assisted change to an different clutch system. The workshopbook illustration there clearly shows it with automatic tensioners, right ..but that is maybe just an old illustration reused out of a early development document ??
  9. Every valve guide needs to be fitted in a specific position -seen in relation to the way of movement the cam-follower/ tapped and the valve stem does make. In simple words the valve guide needs to be fitted deep enough into the head (viewed from top of the head) -deep enough, so that in all cases of wear & tear and expansions the cam lobe can still push the valve, with all the parts in contact, can push it into the int/ex. port/combustion chamber -without contacting the top end of the valve guide. Mention there a small pieces attached to the steps, on top end of the valve-stem.. locking the valve-spring/upper plate in place ...and also the cam follower with his inner hydraulic part does have a own dimension -this all needs space too. So if you design an engine it is cost wise not good to make the valve guides as short as possible, only to let it look good. -the guide of course not only "guides" the stem, there is also a heat transfer going on steady .. but this transfer only works if the material of the valve guide does have the head material (the alloy) surrounding him, you understand what I mean ? *if someone is up to smoothen out/port the head -[blue] it would be an option to even smoothen out the sharp broken sections of the exposed guides [read] ..some engines run this way, and as I recall correctly Mike had choosen for one of the customer rebuilds to port those channels there on one of the 918 this way too ..so as engineer you would chose the next available (and cost effective) length that still matches your material specification from the blue-prints. What causes on the other hand that there are in most times remains left over, viewable on the side in the port ..a notable portion of the valve guide is exposed in the intake/exhaust ports. This exposed portion, in case of a sintered material mix [as it is on our 918 engines] is prone to braking off, on side loads -those side loads happen with bend valve stems .. just as you can see on Alex pictures - clear ? ..I too have pictures of the exposed portion from a valve-guide, from one of my heads -this is a normal process within the actual design so far
  10. on the point of *clutch problem* The DIY aligment tool I mentiond (and used) ..an other broomstick thing, ou know ..is maybe not anyones way to go. -but there is at least the *Helix sport* clutch package on the market, different in some details to the Lotus AP setup ..but think this should be a cheaper option for an replacement (in relation, at least..) AP -replacement friction plates cost around 140 GBP per item ( have got some from Steve, SJ-sportscars in 2012, he was very fast & good on delivery arrangement) Helix-sport version of those plates cost nearly the same, as single plates .. http://www.motorsport-tools.com/helix-lotus-esprit-35-v8-competition-twin-plate-clutch-rigid-plate-1.html ..of course, Alex ..this time please give it a go -with my mentioned note from the workshopbook, about the machining on the flywheel and (!) mounting face for the cage
  11. I like of course if someone does his homework in general on those cars we like ..and as such I would help him with the offer for some 'factory-packed' new valves left over. On the other hand there still is the cheaper option to simply fit a different arrangement with an other match (from different OEM source) - I mean a usable match out of valve-guide/valve stem dimension, as the catalogs from Mahle and other part manufacturers are full of it. http://www.motorenteile.mahle.com/product_catalog/modules/motorComponent/specs/index.xhtml?subId=10 ..it just needs to find the right size that fits into the valve seat with the same valve diameter and a valve guide who fits into the bore there in the head. Lotus themselves have enginerd the 918engine with GM parts, as we can see on the followers/ hydraulic tappets ..so the workshop book refers on a specific position for the valve guides to be inserted, just to protect the upper arrangement out of follower and spring and still offer sufficient lift on the cam lobe -so from the engineering point of view it is not said that it will not be allowed to use different & shorter valve guides (or simply cut the now broken open portion off, the one that sits in the intake / exhaust ports an is in reality just a point where it minimizes air flow ..with other words to port the heads now as those are already off in the moment -see Mike S. engine modifications as example) *ps @ Gavin: ..think you and me, we both knwo that one of the aims of a valve guide is the heat transfer into the head, and of course a long valveguide without material surrounding can't transfer heat into "nothing" ..that's why I mention to simply grind the remained portion off, in a way that all is smooth again ..same is for the "damaged" pistons --my engine was in most of its years in use with petrol and E85mixtures, as some of you know, and in his first life in the prior owners hands the engine suffered from one of those 'factory concept' faults on the intermediate drive bold there. Long story short -the crowns of several pistons showed old contact marks from this older engine failure and small cracks there, as I opened the engine to rebuild it partly 2008/9 (as it failed on my timing belt problem years later). So the factory 'cast' pistons are not that bad, at least good enough to let the engine run within factory boost range, even if there is sometimes a hot combustion situation in place (as for lean mixtures on fuel experiments) . This means: ..from the cost factor -in Alex situation I would think about an slight sanding on the damaged portions, and use those OEM pistons for a ceramic coating ..as those are named as the "softer" ones, those would benefit from the protective coating, right ? ..and as the pistons are still the not so critical ones on points of thermal expansion and sizing in the liners (compared with what is said about the available aftermarket forged versions) it is a good option to -compared especially with the money for forged ones with an additional coating ..?! ..we even could see how many 'good ones' from the cast OEM I have left over from my rebuild, as in the end I used the full set out of new liners & pistons to replace my worn and allrady rebored liners (the factory offered only full sets of liner& piston those days there as replacement..) . My engine was fitted with *B -class size pistons ..if this is a match to your liners, Alex ? more options - replacement with special fabrication (made out of forged 'pre-modelled' pistons) http://www.wahl-spezialkolben.de/index.php/de/produkte As far as I know -SWLC (south-west-lotus-centre *the lotus cdentre) still does have a full set of forged pistons available, not something I would cal a 'cheap option' ..but available directly in UK now
  12. as far as I recall you told us that you have worked on Ferraris & Lambos in the past ..right ? What is the Nm rating for crank-pulley bolts or lower chain/timing belt drives there ..? Does it work there to lock the crank on a sensor point, instead of simply fit a bar to the flywheel ??
  13. Günter

    Here we go

    at least, you are in *down under* ..so if it is not already in the dry outback a nice sunny shore should be near to you -right ? (this means yacht clubs, with boat service http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/RiggingServicesView?langId=-1&storeId=11151&catalogId=10001&page=Rigging-Services#.UrT48NLuJT4 )
  14. Günter

    Here we go

    'handbrake' ?! ..even with the cables covered in a type of plastic/Teflon ..where no grease (oil) is allowed -ignore it and undo the handbrake cables on both sides, and on the 'multiplicator lever' inside the sill ..now lift up one cable after the other, as high as possible (higher than the cable end inside the car) ..peel off the small rubber cover on the end outside, use a small needle or a small brush 'to lubricate' the cable end -one drop after drop, you need to be patient.. let it run into the cable-end and contaminate all the inner portion of the cable (the steel core) ..after one hour or so get on the end of the inner core with pliers ..and force the cable back and forth -this should free it up (did this on mine ..after years of use, this was the only way to pass the German MOT ..as by nature the cables will suffer from any little bit of water & dirt that enters the system over time, just as for the unequal layout ..so most times it is already only one that is moved up and gets the full move)
  15. wasn' there a pair of two V8 Esprit ...working as 'promotion'-race cars ..under team Garrett ? ..so it should have even a steel floor (instead of the fibre sections) , not only the cage to run in the mentioned race-series ..hope the engine internals are strong enough to compensate 500HP with 1bar boost -gearbox too, what is in there now ? http://gglotus.org/ggrace/grandamer/sema2-sm.jpg http://www.projectm71.com/Garrett_lotus3a.jpg http://www.lotusespritworld.com/images/racing/Garrett_Racecar_01.jpg http://www.lotusespritworld.com/images/racing/Garrett_Racecar_02.jpg
  16. David: sometimes to look into the workshop book is the best way just as Derek mentions ..the 'two stage' pump system is meant to compensate fuel demands under WOT and 'engine-start' conditions ..as such to deliver fuel for the 8 +2 injectors under full load, and if more fuel injection is required (cold start , fuel condensation on the intake walls) ..if you monitor your OBD live data, it should state that under a 'full load condition' (see *load* under OBD parameter list) both pump work. the good thing with this concept is, on an older Esprit V8 ..with a notable 'noisy' and aged primary pump, you simply undo the pump system from the tank, and replace the less used secondary with the former primary ..so you interchange them in the pump-mounting and don't need to spend much money on replacements (been there, done that..)
  17. was there a different 'formulation' used ..in the oil ? So in a way that the more traditional rubber hose starts to interact and gets brittle ?? Any other leaks notable on your oil system ?
  18. Alex -wasn't it you ..who asked about a warranty and 'factory belt-service' ? ..and Bibs and others told you that this was no general action, carried out by Lotus for all of us, as it was only for US cars related to US consumer laws. It is clear that from the constructive point the drive system of those cams is a fail, or let's say a misconception ..as you can see it by comparison with other 16V- four valve head engines ..in the end those two banks are just two inline four, and therefore should last as long as the same belt driven engines of ordinary family hatchbacks (-at least this is my point of view) ..there is a mounting point for an automatic tensioner, with a positioning hole in the cast structure -but for some reasons the development team changed its mind -who knows why :/ On my rebuild I wasn't sure that it is a good idea to let the cam pins in and turn the crank a little more until you tighten up the tensioner bold ..think it was meant this way up in the manual, there in one section mentioning something like this. So I was just happy that I could manage to set-up the tension within the tolerance band after some tries -as on first try it was 200+ HZ and it did not work for me to exactly match the frequency given for a new belt, so as far as I recall in the end it was in the more lower 100 -116HZ area -timing itself was there on the engine stand still within tolerance, so I glued all bolts tightened up in place, and fitted the engine into the car ..at least I was happy that all was running fine. Even the trip to the UK afterwards, with the track run on the old factory test field worked up fine, no noise from the belts and full power. Now -with your story in mind, and as the mileage is up for the '20.000km factory recommendation' on re-check ..I just tried to test it, with engine in the car ..and noticed for example that on the LH side measuring angle of 80° BTDC this belt was 'slack' below the sensitive range of my method with "hit it with the spanner & measure with PDA mic" arrangement. On most other crank angle positions the LH was barely up to 70HZ (with some inconsistency on several tries) ..the thing is, if the belt is that loose near the 80°BTDC reference point you can feel and see that the cam-lobe forces the LH inlet cam to "jump" independently into an defined position -a position that is not 'timed' anymore compared to the LH exhaust cam. The RH side too is a little weak -with a measuring of 90 This is a situation where harsh 'peaks' of load could happen and destroy the core of the belt -don't you think ?! for piece of mind I have now undone the whole LH belt (with a surface / contact face that still looks good on the Nylon mesh on the tooth side) ..and will undo the RH side too and start over from the beginning like on a normal belt change.. so it means I just try to fit them again on both sides, with all setting-pins installed and crank tool in position to be sure that all is ok for the next 20K km. If nothing helps I have to heat up the cam wheels to undo the bolts there (the factory advice was to use this strong white Loctite sealant as a glue there) and even re-position all of the cam-wheels.
  19. Can you say for sure that the tensioners have been fitted in the right way round ? ..in a way that the rotational direction of the belt forces the tensioner to 'run into' the belt in any case, instead of 'jumping off' (see workshop manual for this) Or how exact was the initial timing position done ? ..as for example I can see that on my rebuild (that was not done up to the highest tension specification (HZ) ) -now with a little over 20.000km on the belts the tension is even not up to the lowest spec. '95HZ' rate anymore. And if I try to re-tension it, it runs notable out of timing position, so it means for a exact position I would need to undo the cam wheels again -the 'slack' / tension loss is around one tooth now, and I'm worried too how long those belts will last in general, even with a 're-tension' set up to 120+ HZ
  20. Alex -as you can see by the surface design/cast structure of the heads on front ..there was a plan to create an mounting point for automatic tensioner Maybe you can now be the guinea pig, to test if it is possible/cost effective to install some available modern tensioners there. Or see my topic about a 'redesign/reverse engineering' of the belt drive -with different belts, at least 25mm or even more 30mm belt and '8mm HTD pitch' design that is more common now, and if possible with bigger wheels for the belts to make it a more 'smooth' run with a whider spread load on the contact area
  21. John , you can make it a even bigger show if you use (like me) the unused RH port on our later cars as a "recharge plug" ..the filler door is the same, for design reasons and production efficiency -what is not there is the second catch & release mechanism ..so it is simply glued to stay in the closed position -with big spots of this black 'sikaflex' glue that is used on many Lotus cars. Mask the area around and the filler door itself, with strong masking tape to protect the painting there .. use a flat, thin and flexible piece of metal stripe, if possible with a sharp edge, to cut the fixings ..so it means let the wife with her fingernails lift up the filler door a small amount, and now slide under the gap and try to 'cut' as much of those spots as possible ..the filler door will come free step by step, until you can lift it up with bare fingers. There is nothing 'high tech' on it, just a unused filler door that was glued in place. So there is even no hole in the body there ..what means you can place the coupling for the battery charger, or a universal power socket there into the body. Install an 'inline fuse' into the recharger wiring, to fight against manipulations or 'short cuts' and add a magnet, like those on kitchen furniture or a *welcro strap, to support the filler door to stay closed until someone lifts it up by pushing it on the frontal edge and pull on the rear edge. If you are a smart ass you will tell infant people this is your hybrid car, with a electric recharger port as well as a petrol refill port on the other side.
  22. You've got Email/PN as reply ..hope those *pdf are of good use for you -it is the workshop-collection (link) that I send all with request, so would guess it is exactly what Garth has send you
  23. Alex -not meant to be offensive, but sometimes I have the impression you do not read what others say ..and just 'go with your head into the brick wall' ..if I look closer into you engine pictures, from my impression there on the liner base is lots of remains of the typical *lightbrown-yellowish * sealant all around -right !? ..think this is already what the 3400 sealant looks like, after it was in contact with coolant over years -so there already was a time in the history of your engine that it was (partly) rebuild or resealed. ..as for the 'all engines have got a recall' -no, as I read the factory documentation (in LEW) about the sealant change it was just found that 'in case of an overheating / permanent temperature stress' -so in the way the engine was used -that those engines failed as for the natural expansion characteristics between liner & engine block, and that the older Loctite used per factory was not up to the job. So if a car was used on track or running hotter than medium 'use & abuse' it failed, with other words you could own a early car and never suffer from it ..it all depents on type of use. The term 'most if not all engines nowadays have got the later sealant in' means nothing else than -most if not all engines have got nowadays rebuilds in private hands within the engine live now. Some simply have got internal upgrades like pistons or head porting and some just failed on timing belts and intermediate-shaft issues. So in all those cases the advice was -if you put it all back together undo the liners and use Hylomar3400 now. It was not a general recall from factory ..for example -on my 1998 production engine I found the same light-brown/yellowish sealant around the liners, as I rebuild it again in 2008/9 (rebuild as for the timing belt fail, caused by my own type of bad engine use). From the history documents of my car it was one of those cars who had an engines that already failed early on after first registration -due to an intermediate shaft coming loose and that caused a serious timing issue with bend/broken valves and piston damage. In previous owners hands the car was into service and repair on a regular contracted Lotus service point in those past days. My liner (bore) measurement showed that the Lotus garage had machined the liner/bore a little above factory specification and the sealant that I found those years later showed me that the liners have got this modification within this engine rework. But there is no note in the documents that the previous owner ever directly claimed a loss of water or a liner fail before this timing belt issue was solved -so it looks like it was just one of those early cars who have got a reseal within the process of other engine repairs. ..and of course, for my rebuild I used again the yellowish Hylomar3400 sealant -so far nothing to complain in terms of water loss -if it runs hot on a trackday or traffic jam it does it for natural reasons, and everytime goes back to normal levels under constant driving
  24. 8000 GBP for a "new" V8 Esprit in LHD ? ..ok, that's less than I have in one of my accounts So go for it
  25. you know that you can see if it is an 'fresh' or old crack ..even on alloy ?= ..what I mean is, on steel parts there are several issues and indication marks who can tell you the type of stress/cause of failure -and on an alloy part like yours, you can at least see if there are old 'oxides' and dark grey sections on the outer ends -followed by a more fresh (shiny) area of exposed material ..if it looks like this I would say that the cast already had an older crack/imperfection and the head just failed now as for being not able to compensate the normal stress loads on the bearing (*stress loads* caused by the naturally imperfect engine cycle of any reciprocating combustion engine)
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