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irox

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About irox

  • Rank
    L

More Info

  • Name
    Harald
  • Car
    '98 Esprit, Calpyso Red
  • Modifications
    Exige steering wheel
  • Location
    Florida Left Coast
  1. Hi, I have a '98 V8 with 28k miles looking to sell; near Atlanta; It's in beautiful shape, red, lots of recent upgrades. Let me know if you want to know more. It's listed on the for sale section of lotus talk com
  2. Lining with Velcro... What an interesting solution. I like that idea.
  3. Hopefully this question is somewhat on topic. In the photograph of the first post, there's a small diameter red plastic tube traveling from the right side engine bay wall to the rear of the plenum. Is this not the vacuum control tube to be tapped for the BOV, dump valves? If not, what's the purpose of the tube? I've looked at the service and parts guide and still cannot ferret out what this is...
  4. I believe I have it off... now to slip in the T-Pipes and BOV's.
  5. Hello, I've been removing various parts to reroute the SAI and EGR plumbing in preparation for a BOV install and have managed to remove the hard airline (SAI), EGR pipe and right side compression intake duct (from turbo). It's been easier than I imagined; just the typical Lotus cramped work area where you have to fiddle things out and be flexible with the tool arrangements, extensions, wrench type, etc... I'm stuck with the left side turbo duct. I believe there is a single bolt, attaching the EGR mounting bracket and the turbo duct to the engine block, and I also believe that bolt to be a 6mm hex head; although I had to use a little mustard (small hammer) getting the hex wrench inserted into the head. I tried to twist the bolt, standard anti-clockwise (lefty loosey, righty tighty) and its not going anywhere. No budge; I used a small breaker pipe, about 12", and turned harder... No give. I fear I'm either going to snap off the bolt head or break the wrench... Am I going at this bolt correctly? Is it the right one? I know, obscure question; but I'm thinking someone here has removed this item before and may have a tip. Maybe a bit of heat? No visible rust or corrosion Thanks
  6. JAE, California where I got my window guides. There are 3 per door. SJ sports cars, UK may also carry them.
  7. Yes! That was far easier than I imagined. The service guide is pretty clear on the process. The only thing, which I suppose is rather obvious, is to lower the glass so the window guides can be slipped out of the retention rail. Then as ramjet said, a little juggling, twisting, turning and gently bending, it pops right out. It also, helps, but may not be necessary, to remove the door opening latch from the inside panel causing the articulating rods to be lowered out the way.
  8. I'm sure many readers have seen examples of a sailing vessel, a ship, built inside of a glass bottle and wonder how is that done? Well, I'm feeling the same way about the window lift mechanism inside the passenger door of a V8 model. If the door panel is removed, there are two small openings in the door shell where one can catch a glimpse of the lift frame mechanism; but not the motor. It's snug behind the panel and can only be felt, assuming you know where to probe. The point here is my window does not work. Most of the time... And I finally bored two 1 1/2 inch holes in the panel so I could remove the motor. That's been done and I also took the opportunity to degrease the rails and regreased the rails with a far less sticky product and replaced the tattered window frame seal. The window moves much more freely now and I wish to reinstall the motor but cannot get it to fit back into place. As you can imagine the motor shaft is a screw which apparently drives the lift sprocket up or down depending on the direction of twist and I'm thinking I need to somehow "thread" the screw into the sprocket gear teeth. The reinstall is completely by feel for the motor is and the lift mount are entirely obscured by the door panel and I'm wondering how did the original assemblers get the lift rails and motor in the door in the first place... There are no large openings in the panel, no seams where it might betaken apart... It's like the ship in a bottle mystery to me... How did they do that? Any help or direction greatly appreciated. Pictures provided on request. Thanks
  9. Progress, I think I ran my finger behind and upwards on the right side turbo hose connecting to the plenum elbow. It was wet with oil; not dripping; but definitely wet. The opposite, left turbo, was not; So, as my previous images suggested; the right side coupling seems to be the culprit; as also previously mentioned, the hose clamp was not loose; but there were turns available on the adjustments screws and I did tighten it up. So, question is, is it possible it was just a loose hose; but I have to wonder from where the oil is coming, loose hose or not; Is there anything significant behind that hose that could be leaking (dripping) on the backside of the hose. Need better pictures of what's behind there... Although, I feel as if I'm on the trail of the source
  10. The intake passage of the IAC looks very clean, I even crimped a paper towel wad on a "claw", inserted it into the aperture, swirled it around and it came out with a yellow orange sport or two. No blackness, smudge whatsoever. I'm sort of scratching my head over this at the moment. I'm thinking nothing is out of sorts with the turbo. I'll keep digging I also ran a dewalt remote camera inside the port. Looks ok
  11. I have clear access to the turbo charge pipes; problem I'm anticipating is the pipe coming from the turbo is obviously metal, ie rigid, and I'm assuming the pipe is rigidly mounted which means no flex to the pipe; the hose is about 3" long, so limited flex there; and of course the short pipe leading into the plenum is rigid. So, how easy is it to remove the hose with no "give" (deflection)? Do I loosen both clamps and slide the hose left or right? Seems unlikely.... Do I need to loosen the mount on the pipe coming from the turbo? Or, forbid, remove the plenum?
  12. Here's a shot of the entire engine bay; probably not very useful...
  13. I ran out of time today, took the Esprit into the tint shop for a 30 VLT tint job on side windows and that took a longer than expected That boot floor is easy to remove and puts an entirely new perspective on things. As you said, you can just have a seat right on the gearbox; after wiping 23K miles of grundge. I did manage to see the turbo coupling hoses and I would say right away, I'm having some leakage from the right side turbo on the compression side. The hose clamp had a few turns left in the adjustment screws and I tightened them down, both turbos. I would like to remove them and swab a sample; but it looks difficult to remove the hose and fit it back. Is there a special technique or things to know before attacking it?
  14. Hi Gunter, Those are great suggestions which I will follow up on. MAP Sensor Removed the sensor; there is what appears to be an OEM sealing rubber; orange multi-level, accordion looking thing... you can see it was partially split; pretty sure it came "out" that way. The wall of the port was fairly clean; some grudge in the bottom (seat); I wiped it out with a qtip and also ran the other end of the qtip down inside the port to try to wipe a sample from inside (never have seen the inside) and could not reach anything solid. Did not loose the Tip of the Q; that was good. I would say it was not too bad; but, never have looked at one before; so, for 23K miles; look OK? I'll have to remove the boot tub to gain access to the turbo in/out-lets... IAC and EGR... tomorrow. Oh, and the gaskets between the layers (plenum/manifold/etc) are fitted and seem OK; looking at the outside edges only. Thanks a lot for your help; you obviously have been "all over your Esprit"; probably completely disassembled and reassembled it a couple times; eh?
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