andydclements

SJsportscars list the same kit number for 88-92 and 93 onwards, so appears they remained unchanged

Are they absolutely non-return valves and not anti-flow valves for if the car rolls over? I've never seen the Elite's system but the Esprit had valves that would allow air to move either way so long as the valve was near-vertical, if it was tilted too far then the valve closed and so in the event of a roll-over type of accident, you'd not get massive fuel leaks.

They are a press-fit, so if you have a press coming then that's the best bet. Do you really need to remove them though? If it's painting and rust removal on the carrier, then you could just mask off the stub.

It will almost certainly, Lotus bushes will be imperial not metric, but you'll always be within 1mm of the exact size of the hole (as you'll need to go smaller not larger than the hole), so far from a disaster (the steel walls of the metalastic will be c1mm and if one was 25.x mm (25.4 IIRC = 1 inch) outer diameter you'll be OK with a tool 23.4mm so 25 is near perfect. Personally, I've normally got away with a big socket set or two (if one manufacturer's socket wasn't quite right, then normally another manufacturer will have made the socket's wall a fraction thinner/thicker.

I've never worked on a K series but believe the bolts are a substantial part of the strength of the block, so if there's any chance that the thread at the bottom has failed, then pull it apart and check, but hopefully they just hadn't engaged thread properly.

What is the aim of going FI? If it's reliability, tractability , easy starting etc then that seems like a good idea but don't expect to get a massive power increase as the 45s deliver pretty much enough fuel as the standard engine can handle, more power will need the adjustments that @jonwat called out.

I got the old metalastic bushes out without a press but it was an awful job, I had to drill the rubber between the steel tubes then use a hacksaw to cut a gap into the outer tube which allowed it to contract and come out. It probably would have pressed out had I had one at the time. If there's one you can borrow, then great, but failing that yes purchase a press as it will be much easier and possibly safer (I went 20T but then I to do over-kill, and 20T wasn't much more than one with a smaller bottle jack). £70 for the 6T or £110 for 20T equates to very little time if you had to pay somebody to do the job, and you can recoup a fair bit of that price when sold after the job.

Looks like you may have bagged a real bargain, and Phew with regards to fitting some wheels of an appropriate style.

If the fronts have a full set of shims on, then it's just a matter of moving the positions to adjust, not adding any. I say, if it has a full set as not all do.

Depends on the conditions of things like body and interior. If just carpets and a clean of the leather then £200, but if the leather is rotting then that's more like £2k. If paint generally OK and just touch up on chips, then few£s, if needs complete respray then few £1000s. So, yes engine needs assembling and fitting, but depends on the views of the seller as compared to your views as prospective owner as to what's necessary.

Do a Google search on the term "cold galvanisation" (or "cold galvanization") and you'll find lots of zinc-rich paints that can either be brushed or sprayed on. These will give a better protection in the event that the paint layer is broken through, but if you already have rust then I'd suggest using a stabilising solution first (search term "Cure rust" to chemically alter the existing oxides.

L75B06 11967 So, if I'm reading that right, is an Elite engine wit Ar conditioning and Power Assisted Steering for the UK (domestic) market. 75 refers to the year of build, and 06 te month of build (June), then 11967 is the serial number Tat all means you'd expect it to be a 2l not 2.2l, but it is easy to swap out some of the internals from a 2.2l and build it as such. The difference is the stroke of the piston, 2.0l will be 69.2mm whereas 2.2l will be 76.2mm. So worth checking what stroke the engine guy says it is. Do you have a photograph of the crack?

Yes, definitely best to call them, they used to be it by a lot of spam (probably due to publicising the email address for so long), so good chance emails get picked up erroneously by the filters, even if the emails get through phone requests would take priority.

If you do change the rating below the manufacturer's spec, then make sure your insurance are informed. Most tyres are rated way over the actual speed the car will generally travel at (@Bibs may be excluded from that statement) in which case the speed rating is more about the acceleration force (rather than weight which is load) they will experience, so depends if you'd be giving it full force on winter tyres.

The Lotac bushes will bring handling back to factory spec as those bushes are engineered (incl testing and design) to replicate those original characteristics. Well-worn rubber ones will obviously be sloppy and a dramatic improvement achieved by simply putting in new rubber ones, but these don't have the same composition as the originals and the handling will not as it was back when the car was new. So, original handling= Lotac, original look = rubber. Dampers and springs, given time and expertise you could probably tweak the aftermarket dampers to replicate the lotus ones or at least close enough to not be noticeable in most driving situations, if you want that achieved as soon as bolted on, then you'd really have to go with the (much more) expensive option.