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Everything posted by andydclements

  1. Compression ratios are different, so would be complete strip-down and replace lots of internals, carbs are set to have boost both sides of the fuel, lots of differences. I'd agree with Buddsy, easier and cheaper to sell NA and buy Turbo car. In your original post you stated "..the options for moderate turbo boost (nothing extreme) and therefore greater reliability...." I'd say the NA is more reliable.
  2. Tat would be a very detailed CAD design. Perhaps specify which dimensions you need, or the purpose so that somebody can supply the ones necessary.
  3. As per original reply, Domestic = UK USA= Federal
  4. Although the car that Sparky is currently working on is perhaps a bit worse tan most, I'd say that typically a car in the UK will be closer to it's state than the state of Travis's, just given the climate meaning that cars get driven on damp roads at least occasionally, and ten don't get to quickly dry out.
  5. Oh. I for Indigo, is Domestic with PAS and AC, so 1974 with PAS would have to be Elite (Eclat arrived in 75)
  6. L = Domestic = UK 74 = made in 1974 05 = Made in May of 1974 7176 = serial number
  7. No way. I often end up having to "watch" shows 3-4 times as I nod off part way through, so it will be set to record.
  8. The twin tank system (it's two compartments connected internally into one body) is an improvement. There's an internal pipe that goes from the top of the front tank, to the bottom of the second one. The front tank has a flat sealing cap on it, and should always be full of coolant. The rear tank acts as the expansion tank, and should be approx half full (if over-filled it will empty itself to achieve the appropriate level), and has the pressurised cap which leaks off excess coolant to atmosphere (little drain pipe). Edit: plumbing wise, there are two different pipe sizes, one goes to the top of the thermostat casting, and I cannot recall where the other goes.
  9. Until it's diagnosed, I'd suggest you don't drive it. If it is (just) a rusty UJ or other ting that isn't going to cause the steering to seize, then you might be OK, but if it's something that could cause the steering to lock in one position or cease to turn beyond a certain position, then you could have a very dangerous vehicle even at moderate speeds (such as 30mph).
  10. A closely relates topic as just been discussed as part of restoration topic. You'll be best to remove the cast carrier from the car, and soak/ eta etc to free 45 within the casting & the split sleeve 46.
  11. As Christian indicated, even the Lotus rubber bushes sold now are not "original", the compound has had to change to meet ever-changing regulations, so hence the Lotus programme that devised their poly-bushes which achieved the original handling characteristics.
  12. Sorry, I cannot, it's just what two different Lotus specialists have said when selling bushes, I think it was over-steer but memory fade could mean it was under-steer (cannot think why a little under-steer would be a problem, but over-steer is more difficult to control if unexpected). I would guess that stiffer bush (caused by poly) acts similar to a more rigid ARB.
  13. Ah, yes those are the ones where I was advised to stick with rubber (on an Esprit and an Excel) as poly makes it more likely to over-steer, I wasn't previously aware of it impacting bump-steer as well.
  14. Even some specialists say poly (or perhaps normal compound poly) isn't suitable on some steering bushes, such as ARB mounts being too stiff if poly is used. @peteyg which ones was that? The ones in the lower suspension arms, or the ARB mounts? If it's lower mounts then, I would have not been surprised if it were S3 pre-'85 lower mounts, but I think S2 are similar to post'85 and think not as susceptible.
  15. Actually, they should be possible to pop out of the nylon that's in the backplate, and so no need to unscrew them from the mobile plate and its little threaded nylon sections.
  16. Looking back, I'd not phrased my replies earlier correctly ( but the one of 11 hrs ago was correct). If they don't charge you extra for the privileged, then that's right (don't add VAT to the MOT fee, simply pass it through), but if they made some sort of service charge/profit on the actual MOT cost (such as they get a discount but charge you the £54), then they'd have to add VAT. I guess that a brand dealer places value on being able to have customers' vehicles MOT'd at the same appointment as servicing etc (where they make a decent profit), so just pass on the cost and add nothing on top.
  17. But you do if the fee is the passed on by another service provider as part of VAT invoice.
  18. Yes, but not if the garage (who are VAT registered) then pass on the charge, it then has VAT added.
  19. In some cases you may end up paying VAT on the MOT fee. If the garage don't charge for their services then it may be possible to just pay the MOT fee, but if they charge you a fee + MOT cost, then VAT (assuming they are VAT registered) should be applied to both, so effectively making the MOT £60. Just a weird bit about how VAT works.
  20. Purchased a new battery for the Excel that probably hasn't run since the last MOT test in Feb 2017, and despite me suspecting fuel pump problems as I couldn't hear a ticking noise, it actually started and ran. Even better, the front headlight that refused to budge, moved easily by hand turning, and is now moving electrically as it should, and the indicator repeater still works despite an accident with a snow shovel in March 2018 (OK, I'm having to glue the lens on, but the thing still lights up). Even if it fails an MOT (yet to be booked) on some little things I think I'd take that as a really good outcome.
  21. Looking at the last image (the one with 4 images in one) I think that it looks as though the lacquer has lifted, so if that's the case it's a full respray as it will all start to lift very soon.
  22. Rather than describe, here's the post with the discussion.
  23. Traditionally, as the population has expanded beyond what could be sustained at the time, a cull has happened. When population density exceeded limits that medicine couldn't sustain then there would be mass infections, when population exceeded what poor levels of harvest could be achieved in bad years, then people starved, or when population either just go too dense for comfort or even good years of harvest were not sufficient, then wars happened. So, yes Hitler tried that but not just by religious / racial persecution but more generally by the military actions designed to spread out the area that he & his followers could claim.
  24. It's as per Guy's post in 2006. The release is a thin metal bar that runs across the footwell, right up behind the dash, at a guess it's nearly half way up between the opening and the top of the dash (driver's side). Most people would probably guess it's a bar to support cables or something, and never suspect it's a release lever.
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