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andydclements

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Everything posted by andydclements

  1. You'd be better to check the spark voltage using a meter which is a pair of sharp points where the gap can be altered, the shortest distance at which the spark fails to cross, gives you the voltage of the spark. Then just compare to Accuspark's specification (you may need to contact them to get that).
  2. Doh, I was thinking of Aldi win Gin Lane, although I've not found Old Tom in either of them at the times I've looked.
  3. I know a few of us have had and binned Protech. On mine within 6 months of light use, pretty much all damping had gone, that may have been due to softer springs leading to the fluid having to work a lot more than it should with normal springs, but then compare that with what the firm above have stated.
  4. And now that's taken me to a lost evening watching Youtube of that sketch and others.
  5. It's all @Sparky 's fault. For years a lamp connected to a couple of lengths of wire was enough, maybe luxury involved a crocodile clamp or two. Then I migrated to a multimeter. But then some time ago I suffered from tool envy due to his Power Probe. So, plunge has been taken and now I have a pp100. It had better be worth it, else future recommendations from Watford Exotics will be treated with scepticism, after all it cost a fair bit more than a 5w lamp and two salvaged bits of wire.
  6. It's impossible to say that it would not /could not happen, but it does appear to have a mechanical fail-safe mechanism in the form of the hooks along the bottom, so if the hydraulics failed it shouldn't come down. Lotus tend to be very even weight distribution front to rear, so with that ramp it looks at though the centre of mass will be within the area of the supports even when at full support. I think that I'd probably also put some very tall axle stands in place if I was to use something of that type. That said, I use Carstages, and even then put mechanical chocks in addition to the ramps which do that, and the weight of the car which is what primarily keeps it from tipping. So I'm probably over-cautious.
  7. Did the misfire happen before the parts were replaced? If not then I'd suggest revert bits at a time because as JonWat says, new doesn't mean it's fine. I was caught out by a new rotor arm that was faulty due to its design.
  8. Do you mean "Gin Lane 1751 old Tom"? I think that Hortus is used as a brand for their dry gin.
  9. What's distinct about the "Dutch coastal gin" compared to others? For example, London Dry = very dry, Plymouth = moderately dry, Old tom = mild dry, Jenever = not dry, almost sweet.
  10. I'm with Sparky, but also take account of the parts coming off Vs quality of the replacement. If you take off a part that was good for 30yrs so obviously relative free of manufacturing defect, and replace it with the cheapest compatible item, then expect to introduce problems.
  11. Just make sure it doesn't eat the chocolate Easter eggs.
  12. Here's an image (from LotusTalk) of the arrangement, although I think this is aftermarket so goes to show it can be fabricated with a bit of steel, a drill press and a welder. The spacer can be made to be adjustable, so you don't have to be spot on first time, the hole is not central in the square spacer so you use the four different dimensions to find the one that gets the right angle.
  13. You could do it the way that Lotus did on the late Esprits. Elongate the holes in the uppers, and put in spacers to push the bolts closer to the pivot.
  14. SJsportscars list the same kit number for 88-92 and 93 onwards, so appears they remained unchanged
  15. Are they absolutely non-return valves and not anti-flow valves for if the car rolls over? I've never seen the Elite's system but the Esprit had valves that would allow air to move either way so long as the valve was near-vertical, if it was tilted too far then the valve closed and so in the event of a roll-over type of accident, you'd not get massive fuel leaks.
  16. They are a press-fit, so if you have a press coming then that's the best bet. Do you really need to remove them though? If it's painting and rust removal on the carrier, then you could just mask off the stub.
  17. It will almost certainly, Lotus bushes will be imperial not metric, but you'll always be within 1mm of the exact size of the hole (as you'll need to go smaller not larger than the hole), so far from a disaster (the steel walls of the metalastic will be c1mm and if one was 25.x mm (25.4 IIRC = 1 inch) outer diameter you'll be OK with a tool 23.4mm so 25 is near perfect. Personally, I've normally got away with a big socket set or two (if one manufacturer's socket wasn't quite right, then normally another manufacturer will have made the socket's wall a fraction thinner/thicker.
  18. I've never worked on a K series but believe the bolts are a substantial part of the strength of the block, so if there's any chance that the thread at the bottom has failed, then pull it apart and check, but hopefully they just hadn't engaged thread properly.
  19. What is the aim of going FI? If it's reliability, tractability , easy starting etc then that seems like a good idea but don't expect to get a massive power increase as the 45s deliver pretty much enough fuel as the standard engine can handle, more power will need the adjustments that @jonwat called out.
  20. I got the old metalastic bushes out without a press but it was an awful job, I had to drill the rubber between the steel tubes then use a hacksaw to cut a gap into the outer tube which allowed it to contract and come out. It probably would have pressed out had I had one at the time. If there's one you can borrow, then great, but failing that yes purchase a press as it will be much easier and possibly safer (I went 20T but then I to do over-kill, and 20T wasn't much more than one with a smaller bottle jack). £70 for the 6T or £110 for 20T equates to very little time if you had to pay somebody to do the job, and you can recoup a fair bit of that price when sold after the job.
  21. Looks like you may have bagged a real bargain, and Phew with regards to fitting some wheels of an appropriate style.
  22. If the fronts have a full set of shims on, then it's just a matter of moving the positions to adjust, not adding any. I say, if it has a full set as not all do.
  23. Depends on the conditions of things like body and interior. If just carpets and a clean of the leather then £200, but if the leather is rotting then that's more like £2k. If paint generally OK and just touch up on chips, then few£s, if needs complete respray then few £1000s. So, yes engine needs assembling and fitting, but depends on the views of the seller as compared to your views as prospective owner as to what's necessary.
  24. Do a Google search on the term "cold galvanisation" (or "cold galvanization") and you'll find lots of zinc-rich paints that can either be brushed or sprayed on. These will give a better protection in the event that the paint layer is broken through, but if you already have rust then I'd suggest using a stabilising solution first (search term "Cure rust" to chemically alter the existing oxides.
  25. L75B06 11967 So, if I'm reading that right, is an Elite engine wit Ar conditioning and Power Assisted Steering for the UK (domestic) market. 75 refers to the year of build, and 06 te month of build (June), then 11967 is the serial number Tat all means you'd expect it to be a 2l not 2.2l, but it is easy to swap out some of the internals from a 2.2l and build it as such. The difference is the stroke of the piston, 2.0l will be 69.2mm whereas 2.2l will be 76.2mm. So worth checking what stroke the engine guy says it is. Do you have a photograph of the crack?
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