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Russ91SE

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Everything posted by Russ91SE

  1. Thanks Jacques, that helps. The SJS part does then match mine. Here are pictures anyway. I highly recommend if anyone feels the reverse collar getting sticky, or not sliding freely, to open it up and clean the shaft to keep it sliding smoothly before you break it. It's easy to do. I wish I had though of it sooner. Anyone found these anywhere besides SJS?
  2. On my 91 SE, in the last 8 months or so, I had been having a hard time getting into reverse. I guarantee not driving it enough caused this problem. The collar wouldn't pull up on the gear shifter. It would stick, but eventually pull up, so I ignored the problem. One day, after being especially stubborn, it finally pulled up but felt a little different, and that's when I found that I could engage reverse without pulling up on the collar. When I opened it up and looked down in the shift mechanism, I found the plastic sliding collar with the reverse lockout block had broken, and the bottom half had disappeared into the nether regions of the tunnel. The roll pin was still in place, the top half with the reverse block was intact and I was able to manually pull it up and push it down enough to drive home (although, without a gaiter, I was getting a lot of fumes and heat in the cabin). After sitting for the last couple of months, I found the plastic collar had become stuck/fused to years of gunk that had collected on the shifter shaft and wouldn't slide any more at all. I got the shifter out, cleaned the shaft, and now I need to replace the sliding collar. I searched the forum, but didn't find any info on replacing this part. I know Lotus only sold the shifter as a whole unit. I saw some pics Travis posted a while ago, and my shifter is not that style. Is the later SE the same as the S4? I can probably post pics tomorrow. I saw SJ has their own part that looks similar ( SJ082F0011 ), but I'm not 100% sure, because I only have 2/3 of mine left. Is this something that could be built on a 3D printer? Or would it have to be moulded? Any info or ideas appreciated.
  3. Thanks for chiming in, Vanya and Trevor. The spark plug wells are, and always have been, clean and dry. I cleaned as much residue as I could from the manifold and lower block, then ran the engine for a bit until the smoking stopped. I hope, as you say, that running the car more will reduce or eliminate the smoke in the future. It was sitting far too long without running last year. Now moving to the next jobs, bleeding the clutch and checking the brakes...
  4. Update from the past weekend. I didn't see any fresh leak around the blanking plug. In case anyone else wonders, it's a 4.5mm hex bit. I got one and gave it a wiggle, but it didn't want to move, so I left it alone. The cam cover is clean, but the cam tower to head area may be the culprit as mentioned above. I also read a thread over on Lotus Talk about others who had manifold studs work loose. Someone else mentioned the area behind the stud threads is pretty thin and could become compromised allowing leakage. Seems like a long shot, but could that assist the stud to work loose? The stud has been replaced with appropriate threadlocker and nut tightened to spec. I'll run it a bit and see if any new oil shows up. At least I feel comfortable that the exhaust manifold, cat, and muffler are secure again.
  5. Yeah, thanks for the vote of confidence, Atwell. I just feel lucky I don't have leaking gas tanks again! Jim, I've cleaned the area around there as much as I can, so maybe if it starts a fresh mess I can figure where it came from. The blanking plug just had the biggest drop of oil, so that along with it sticking out attracted my attention as the culprit. I had assumed it was supposed to be more flush. If it doesn't show any new signs of leakage, then I probably won't disturb it. Your suggestion sounds more legit, but that looks like a bit of a job to get the cam tower off.
  6. I was planning to remove the blanking plug and reinstall with new sealant to see if that would help. I wonder how much oil might come out behind it? Can't be too much up there after the engine not turning for months, can there?
  7. Car has been sitting for a while, and when I started it up, there was smoke in the engine bay. It smelled of oil too. Underneath, I found loose bolts into and out of the catalytic converter, and while tightening them up, I found possible culprits to the smoke. I am completely missing a stud on the exhaust manifold, and also have a loose nut, both on #1 cyl. I also noticed an amount of oil clinging around, and seemed to be associated with the forward blanking plug. It's sticking out of the block by a few millimeters, so I thought maybe it has worked loose, but I see other pictures where that looks about right, so I'm not 100% sure if that's the origin. The cam cover seems clean and dry, so I don't think it's leaking down. Possibly something at the front of the head? I'm having a hard time with the hex size on the blanking plug. Anyone know? I've tried 4mm, too small, 5mm too big. I don't have a 4.5 - is that the one I need? I hijacked a picture from Travis and drew on it to show the location. As for the manifold stud, I was able to verify that it hadn't sheared off, so I'll just contact JAE for replacement. Do you think the leaky oil helped it work loose? I did notice that the lock tabs were not bent up as they should be. I never really noticed before, but I'll remedy that. DPO
  8. Russ91SE

    Russ91SE

  9. That DeLorean was crazy! Too much engine though, because after 88 mph... well, we all know what happens. I had a friend with one of those Impulses in 1990. I don't think he drove it hard enough to discover the Lotus handling. Not whenever I was in the car anyway.
  10. I saw in the news that C. Springs had some flooding and mudslide last week. Was it anywhere near the LOG hotel/events? I don't have mud tires on the car at the moment! I start my trip on Wed and see you all on Friday!
  11. Hey Travis, I look forward to seeing you again. And your car. I plan on driving my M100 out there this year. After 9 LOGs in the Esprit, I decided it's time for a change. Hotel is booked. I'm sure August in CO will be nice, but I have to get across Texas first. I'll need air conditioning!
  12. Glad to hear you got it done. Sorry you didn't make it to Asheville. We had a good time with the "spirited" driving in the back roads on Sunday. You wouldn't have wanted to be there with 23 year old tires!
  13. Phil, did you get your tires? I didn't see the Jim Clark Edition at LOG?!
  14. I will be having this issue soon. Very disappointing that original size not made anymore. Try this website for equivalent tire sizes. http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/ I found tires in both 225/50r15 and 225/45r15 to be close. I've always had 4 matching brand/style tires, but looks like I'll have to adjust at my next tire change. I might try to go with the 45 profile. My other thought is to change wheels. I've always liked the OZ Novas...
  15. The times that I've had the strange warning light issues were all related to the electrical system. First time was when the Valeo alternator was giving up the ghost and while driving the first lights to come on were the ABS system. I believe now it was shedding the load to try to keep me running. Unfortunately, I didn't make it home as the battery ran out. New Bosch alt installed and there were no more lights. Next time was later when the battery was old, and the lights before startup didn't make sense. I don't remember exactly what it was, but they weren't acting normal. And the final, recent event, I was having an eternal running ABS pump and brake fail light at startup. At first I thought it was a faulty pressure switch, but then found the alternator mount had worked loose and the belt was slipping. Voltage in Espritmon showed only about 12.5V. Tightened it up and now it's back up to 13.5+ with no brake warnings. I'm no electrical engineer, so I'm not sure if it has to do with system voltage, amps, or weak battery. But I'm running happy for now.
  16. Sorry I didn't spot this post earlier because I had this same issue a couple of years ago. I had no engine codes at all so it was frustrating to troubleshoot. It started out as an intermittent problem, but then became full time. After new coils and spark plugs, it ran OK, but then acted up again while enroute to LOG in Orlando. Dave Simkin and Arnie Johnson ended up helping me solve it, and I replaced the fuel injectors to clear it up beautifully.
  17. That's somewhat of a relative question. How low are you letting the tanks get? Waiting for the low fuel light or using the gauge? I just drove a 2500 mile road trip at mostly 75mph and got 24+ mpg, with over 400 miles per fill up. My "fill up" was about 16-17 gallons and it was after the low fuel light came on. Incidentally, before installing the PUK #6 chip I was seeing 28-32 mpg. Driving in the city still gets me over 300 miles per tank. Apparently I'm not as lead-footed as some of you!
  18. I've had a set of them on my 91SE for about 3 years. I have nothing bad to say about them. They've performed well on the street, on a track day, on an autocross, and still have a good treadlife left on them. I usually don't take the Esprit out in the rain, but I just drove from Florida to NY and back for LOG 33 and it rained each day while travelling. No problems on the wet back roads or interstates at 60-75mph. Given the limited choices, I'll probably replace with them again when it's time, and I won't have any qualms about it.
  19. Sorry for the delayed reply. What I thought was a fixed system has turned to dismay and frustration. Too long a story to type all the details, but basically I replaced the pump with a used one that I bought. I also used the pressure switch that came with it, but that turned out to cause intermittent running of the pump. So with my original brake system, original pressure switch, new accumulator, and used pump installed, it all worked. For two months. I drove the car probably 4 times with about 10-12 hours of highway and city driving and it worked great. Then with the bad weather of December it sat in the garage for the whole month. Unfortunately, when I started it up last week, the pump ran continuously again and both lights came on. Espritmon gave the Low Pressure code, but I haven't had any further time to work on the troubleshooting. So that's where I'm at. Pretty much back where I started. At least now I have more time to work on it since I'm not looking at a LOG deadline. (Not until August anyway)
  20. Silver, or yellow, or a combination... Silver with some yellow trim.
  21. I just heard from my wife on her visit to the store. I guess she didn't ask the right question or didn't ask the right person, but she got there about 6:15 and said there was nobody else around. One of the girls there helped her with shopping and they talked with a manager at checkout about the TLF discount, which she got. And then they showed her the door. She said it was a great store, but too bad she missed out on the private party. Apparently after she went out, she saw the group through a window in a different room, but at that point she decided it was too late. Oh well, the upside was that she spent some money and got the discount - Merry Christmas to me! Sorry she didn't get to meet any of you.
  22. Yeah, I read that thread a couple of weekends ago when I got started. Almost took the whole weekend to read it! It's good stuff; thanks for posting it. If I had more time available I would continue to tackle this. Unfortunately, I need to have it running for LOG, and between work and a couple of out-of-town trips coming up starting this week, I'm just running out of time. On the bright side, one of the trips is to London and I've scheduled a visit to Hethel. Definitely looking forward to that. Oh, and I'm near Pensacola, Florida.
  23. Follow up. I tested the electricals and they seem OK. I don't know how the pump is set up internally, but I put some suction on the feed side and nothing came out. I'm at a loss for any more "simple" cures, and don't have time to take it all apart in the coming weeks, so it's going off to the shop. Perhaps a real mechanic with some GM experience can fix a GM brake system.
  24. Thanks, yeah I've been through those steps too. Forgot to mention. I may give that another shot though.
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