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Roy Lewington

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Everything posted by Roy Lewington

  1. Hi Dave, that is a really excellent post. Well done and thanks for taking the trouble. Cheers Roy.
  2. I think your oxygen sensor is faulty. 1.7CO and 175HC is not very rich, only just outside the pass. The old carb cars used to run 5.0% co at idle. You mention that your oxygen sensor flatlines at 0.45volts. This is not how they sre supposed to work. I have a carb/turbo so the next information is not specific to an SE. Here is a DIY test you can do which is a general procedure for O2 sensors which are designed to constantly monitor the oxygen content of the exhaust gasses before they get to the cat and alter them accordingly by instruction to the ECU. Locate the plug which will probably have 4
  3. Sorry I don't know the answer to that-------but if you do wind them right down and allow them to adjust automatically you can't be any worse off. Good luck Roy.
  4. Distance for cable to caliper lever is RH 65mm, LH 50mm. This is measured from the inside of the L shaped bracket where the cable exits and the point where the cable goes into the caliper lever (ie not the nipple side). Having said all that I don't think that is the important point. Ian is right about having plenty of travel at the handbrake lever. The important thing at the caliper is that the caliper lever must be fully off. It must be still fully off when the handbrake cables have been connected and adjusted. Too tight and it will start to pull the lever away from its stop. With the cables
  5. Now that seemed like a good idea. Friend of mine has just bought a Mazda MX5 which has its battery in the boot. Fitted as standard are battery pipes venting to the outside through an inner wing fitting. My battery had the vent holes so a couple of L shape connectors, a T piece and some clear plastic tubing was all I needed. I put a connector through the boot channel drain pipe and vented it out the bottom using a short length of copper pipe. Roy.
  6. When I did mine I used a closed cell foam sleeping mat from a camping shop. Cut it out in one complete unit a put it in with Evostick Adhesive. I would have thought the difference between 20 and 25mm would take up in compression as the bonnet is closed. So 25mm would be the preferred option.
  7. No spark. !2 replies offering help. Whilst this is probably valuable reading for members---------no reply. 'Good' and 'Manners' comes to mind.
  8. Thanks Brian, I checked and you are right so I have swopped them round. I was in panic mode thinking that I had not locked the plates in correctly. Fortunately it doesn't affect the brake operation or security but does make it a lot easier to tap the retaining plates out when the next pad change is due. Cheers Roy.
  9. *I decided that the winter project for this year was an overhaul of the brake calipers (standard set-up). These seemed to be working fine although they did have a tendency to pull to one side slightly but centralised very quickly as more pressure was applied. They had passed 2 MOT's so they didn't really need doing did they? To be fair on the last MOT they did say that generally the brakes were a bit 'sticky' and not very well balanced at the front. Worth doing? It absolutely was. What I found was a wee bit scary. Maybe a bit of history first. When I acquired the car and indulged in some spir
  10. Ok, I think you need to go back to basics rather than just renewing everything you can think of. It is not money wasted of course because you will have new parts, but even then it may not cure your problem. First check is to pull back the rubber boot on the big fat ht lead that goes into the centre of the coil. Makes sure the metal end is pushed down as far as it will go into the coil tower as this is a common non-starting problem. Not fixed? Buy, or make yourself, a remote starter. A push button switch connected to 2 leads with a crocodile clip on each. Remove the large spade connector on the
  11. With the front wheel off you can get a spanner or grips on the lower UJ joint and hold it tight to stop it moving. Moving the steering wheel now will indicate where the play is, either above or below this locked point. Taking the drivers seat out will also make life (and your back) easier. Roy.
  12. I had the same trouble on mine and was fairly convinced it was the UJ's. When I got the UJ's off the splines they were perfect and all the play was from the inner and outer collapsible column. I cant explain it very well but with the steering column pulled out of the top UJ the splined part slides in and out of a sleeve which I seem to remember is of triangular shape. This was where my play was and other than packing it with grease it wasn't enough to worry about. It doesn't seem to show this in the manuals. What is very important is to get the correct orientation when refitting (30 degrees ba
  13. Thanks for the info, I think Ferodo DS2500 is what I am looking for. Next question is where can I buy them (I drew a blank on the web). Does anyone have part numbers for front and rear (Stevens X180 Turbo 1988) still on the original calipers---Bendix I presume. Cheers Roy.
  14. Hope everyone had a nice stress-free Christmas. My winter job this year is a brake caliper overhaul, new seals, pads etc. Should I go for 'Green stuff' pads. Are they poor for normal driving until warmed up, do they chew the discs or should I stick to the standard pads. I will probably do one track day this year. What would you recommend? Cheers Roy.
  15. OK, this is what I did with my jack. Still the easiest way to get a wheel off the ground, what with the low ride height, lack of jacking points etc. I still find the rear a problem, very easy to bend a suspension part if you are not careful. I found an old (fairly deep) half inch drive socket. I cut a groove in it and drilled it out to take a nut and bolt. The addition of a couple of rubber washers stops it slopping about when attached to the jack. I just wind it up and down with a nice rachet drive. Working OK so far . Regards Roy.
  16. Hi Simon, how is Adelaide? Spent some good times there, my mother used to live in Fairview Park. Email me on [email protected] Roy.
  17. It never made much sense to me to put water (even with additives) into an aluminium engine. I bit the bullit and fitted a nice new aluminium radiator and then ran it on Evans Waterless Coolant. It is expensive but lasts forever (unless you have a leak of course). It is like a very fine oil--no corrosion, doesn't expand when hot, doesn't boil, doesn't freeze so no pressure on the hoses. I can sit in a traffic jam all day (not recommended) and it's fine. I have to say I am very impressed. Cheaper than a head gasket if your fan doesn't kick in! Roy.
  18. Hi People, thanks for your input. Radio is fine now and this is what I did. With the cover off the A frame windscreen pillar (n/s). Well let's start there- a well documented pig job. With the rubber door seal off you can get a couple of thin levers in (take care not to damage any wiring) and prise. As you can see from the pics they need to be pushed horizontaly (ie towards the drivers door). Once popped out it is still stuck. I had to remove the dashboard speaker, drop the headling a bit and protect the dashboard leather from damage (an old plastic milk botle cut up is good), strong and quite
  19. Hi Simon thanks for your reply. I don't have to turn the DAB antenna on and the old analogue/FM aerial is disconnected at the moment. I have made some enquiries including speaking to a very helpful chap in my local radio fitting workshop. It seems that my aluminium earth plate should work OK but he thought that also sticking the film part of the DAB antenna to the plate might mask the signal. I'll let you know how I get on. Roy.
  20. Thought I had done well to buy a hardly used Sony DAB with good spec---Dab and FM, USB and Aux ports, CD player. I carefully followed the forum advice and made up an aluminium plate bolted to the earth post on the passenger-side windscreen pillar. Aerial is also 12v powered. Now I have some questions as the reception is very poor and inconsistent, dropping out completely in many areas. Background interference sounds like somebody drowning. I have 2 digital mains powered radios at home which are excellent. ---I have stuck the complete aerial onto the ally plate, including the film part will thi
  21. A couple of DIY checks you may like to try. If the engine runs put your ear on the handle end of a long screwdriver and press the blade onto the injector plug. You will hear it clicking if it is operating. Do it on all 4 so you will know because 1 and 4 are ok. If they are clicking it is very unlikely that both 3 and 4 injectors would be blocked. Coil pack: Just get a length of insulated copper cable (household mains is fine), remove plug lead from coil, bear each end of the cable for an inch. Tape 1 end into the coil tube where the plug lead came from and tape or hold the other end 1/4 inch a
  22. I also had a leak on the overflow pipe from my SJS Alloy header tank. It was threaded so screwded in but bearing in mind the thickness of the ally it didn't seal. I refitted it with liquid metal------no leaks now. Roy.
  23. Do it properly once. On my 88 esprit turbo I treated it to a new alluminium rad. I thought it was expensive but it was a beautifully engineered piece of kit and a direct replacement, a straight swop. I changed it without disconnecting the air-con but the oil cooler had to be replaced as It was damaged whilst undoing the hoses (ally threads picked up on the steel hose unions). Hoses I cleaned up ok. I then went for Evans Waterless Cooling Fluid. Again expensive and needing prep fluid as well as the final fluid. But this is for ever (assuming you don't get a split hose). It doesn't boil,
  24. I got myself a second-hand deflector which I also resprayed in matt black. I found it worth having with regard to reducing wind noise and buffeting. Roy.
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