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billstr

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About billstr

  • Rank
    L
  • Birthday 22/01/1950

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • Name
    Bill
  • Car
    2003 Lotus Esprit
  • Location
    California
  1. billstr

    billstr

  2. Did you contact Holloway Performance yet? http://www.hollowayperformance.com/
  3. Unplugging means to take the electrical connector and to disconnect it from the injector. That way, if the injector is sticking in the open position after being activated, it will not be activated in the first place and therefore won't stick open. To prevent the error code, I later plugged in other loose injectors that had the same socket type, instead of the actual injectors (still installed). This prevented the error code but also had the same high-idle problem. Also replacing the secondary injectors had no effect on the problem. The IAC valve has been replaced twice now with no change in this issue. First by the previous owner, next by me. I can assure you the high-idle had absolutely nothing to do with the throttle cable adjustment. This is trivial to check. At the moment, the problem appears to have possibly gone away but it is not easy to reproduce because it takes WOT through much of 2nd gear and a good part of 3rd gear to reproduce. Much less than this and it doesn't happen. I'm thinking now it has something to do with the idle learning or maybe what the Sport 350 ECU thinks is appropriate if this kind of run happens before the idle learn is complete -- maybe not. This kind of run takes me from about 30 mph to over 100 mph. I don't have a race track at my disposal and there are few times/places on public roads here where I can get away with this. If it ever comes back, I might try the idle learn reset through the OBD-II connector but I doubt if I would be able to hear any reaction from the IAC valve with the noise of the engine revving at 3k rpm. Also, I have roughly 1 minute with the car pulled over and the engine at 3k before the temperature begins to climb into the 100 degree range so there isn't a lot of time to fiddle around with much of anything really. If it stays gone, I will chalk it up to mistreatment while still in the idle learn stage. Kind of like what might happen to kids exposed to too much violence at an early age.
  4. It appears the secondary injectors are not the cause of my high-idle problem because it's back. I'll post when I know the cause but as of now, I'm fairly sure it isn't the secondary injectors.
  5. Please disregard my post about secondary injectors and their effect on a high-idle. I thought cleaning these solved my high-idle problem but it appears it's not yet solved. Sorry if I mislead anyone.
  6. It may be that your tires are the limiting factor in your stopping distance. If the brakes are grabbing enough to engage the ABS, and the pedal feel is good, then they are bedded and gripping and that's all brakes can do. It's the tires that have to grip from there. The other reason I believe this is true is that I recently changed my tires (and wheels) from 2 year old Continental Extreme Contact to 10 year old Michelin Pilot Sport (long story) and the braking, cornering and wheel spin difference is astounding. The old Michelins can be quite scary to drive on. I'm having to be very cautious until I get new tires.
  7. I had a terrible high-idle problem on my 2003 (2500 - 3000 rpm) that occurred whenever I did wide-open throttle then returned to a normal idle speed after turning the engine off and waiting 1-2 minutes before restart. SInce I was under the impression that only an air leak could effect idle speed, it took me quite a while to finally discover that the cause was actually the secondary injectors. One or both would stick open on WOT (about the only time they are used) and wouldn't close until the fuel pressure bled off. I'm not sure all of what the ECU was doing with the extra rich mixture but the effect was a very high idle speed. So whenever I hear of someone else with a high idle speed (tick over to you British) I feel compelled to tell my story and encourage them to check the secondary injectors for leaks! I diagnosed the problem by first unplugging the secondaries. When they never opened, they never leaked and I could do WOT/full boost and return to a normal idle. I then cured the problem by simply cleaning them with carburetor cleaner. So I would definitely recommend checking/cleaning the secondary injectors. They are so easy to service.
  8. By a process of price deduction, I would expect the thicker of the two to be the upper seal. This is a guess though. The upper seal (A079K4001F) costs £4.40. The lower seal (A089K0131F) costs £2.10. I expect the thicker seal to be more expensive.
  9. I ordered a few of the plug O-rings (A912E6694F) for spares. I believe I used a box wrench to loosen the plug. The only important part is unplugging the sending unit.
  10. The Idle AIr Controller is preset from the factory to be partially open with no voltage applied but if you've already received the new one, you probably already know this now. Only because I recently had this problem, albeit with virtually none of your symptoms except the high idle, I would recommend you check your secondary fuel injectors for leaks. Mine would stick open after WOT and give me a 3k rpm idle. Simply spraying them with carburetor cleaner solved the problem.
  11. I would start (no pun) with the simplest thing first and load test the battery. In this test, you apply a load and look for a voltage drop. http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-Design-ATD-5495-Tester/dp/B000M5ZW92 Most auto parts stores that sell batteries or service stations can do this test for you. Just because the voltage is good and/or the charging voltage is good doesn't mean the battery is good under load.
  12. Looks like I accidentally moved two of the pictures or something and can't edit that post anymore (why?) so here are the links again. From the left: From the right: From the rear:
  13. The EGR valve has two connectors, one to the actuator (the big one) and one to the EGR temperature sensor (the small one). That is what those two connectors you are holding are for. That clear vacuum line looks like maybe something from a PO. All of my (2003) vacuum lines are either black rubber or black plastic. There are two larger (black) plastic lines from under the plenum, one goes to the rear and one goes toward the front. The one towards the front is connected in the center just below the firewall in the last picture with a special snap connector. I can't guarantee all of my lines are original and unmolested but here are pictures of my U.S.spec (with EGR etc.). A view from the left side side: A view from the right side: And a view from the rear:
  14. WEllison, The shop notes give 130 mph as an example of the high load that engages the secondaries. It doesn't say it's speed controlled. Maybe I mislead you in my wording. From EMM.3: "During periods of very high air flow, typified by a 130 mph road speed, a pair of secondary injectors ..." I'm well aware of differences in ECUs and tables. Dave Simkin and Ron Mann at Lotus helped in reflashing/updating this ECU and there was a lot of diagnostic work done before I found the real issue. That's why I mentioned that I would spare the details but thanks anyway for your "first rule". The secondary injectors (made by Borg Warner) not only "could" leak, on this Esprit they did and that caused a 3k rpm idle. Simply cleaning them fixed the problem so I'm not really interested in an after-market injector substitution. It was likely just some kind of a fuel deposit from being parked for too long and/or seldom engaged.
  15. He sold the car to me and I fixed the problem. See this thread for the solution. http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/43548-continuous-high-idle-after-spirited-run/
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