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  1. eprsplit


  2. I have a spare correct Motorola that needs a regulator (it currently overcharges) $30USD plus shipping to anyone who wants it.
  3. If you can't find one secondhand why don't you get it welded. I had my aluminum alternator bracket welded and it is just like new. It cost me USD$20........pretty good deal.
  4. Wayne, There is alot missing. The prior owner kept the light pods and alot of other stuff. Essentially you have a really nice, crack free, collision free main body, bonnet, rear lid, doors, excellent rust free SoCal chassis complete with front suspension, rear supension arms, rear brake calipers, emergency brake cables, both fuel tanks, bulkhead glass, and all VIN tags. As it is right now the car is just sitting on the chassis NOT bolted down. I purchased the car as a spare in the event my S2 had a collision. I have a storage issue hence the need to move it along. The asking price is re
  5. Slade, What's up??? Yeah I know the feeling..............I just don't have enough time to get to it. I think if it sells it will sell here........of course $1,500 was a starting point, I am open to offers.
  6. I am looking to cash out.........USD$1,500 I will ship worldwide. My computer is having problems so I can't post pictures directly. Thanks. http://i56.photobuck
  7. Does anyone on the forum want to trade for 149H? I need a set of matched Dellorto DHLA 45's and a genuine 2.2 normally aspirated engine? 149H is missing a bunch but is a decent project. Let me know. I will ship worldwide.
  8. My 1979 S2 has one key and it fits both the ignition and the door locks. I needed a copy so I found an exact duplicate with the plastic head at Part Number KB-AA3P The cost was $5.95 per blank and they worked excellent.
  9. Trevor, I set my Dellorto's up with the following specs: Choke 36 Main Jet 160 Main Air Correction 230 Idle Jet 45 Idle jet Holder 7850.7 Pump Jet 60 Starter Jet 70 Main Emulsion Tube 7772-8 Stater Emulsion Tube 7482-1 I need to also say that I fitted Dellorto DHLA 40's to my car. I wanted the 45's but after talking to a few people who deal with the 907 I was told it is a waste of cash to stick 45's on a Federal low compression engine. My car runs well but around 4,000 RPM she flattens out a bit. I changed the combination a little over this weekend and I am no better.............
  10. Eric, Thanks for the pics. I, like Tony, don't have that spacer in my setup. My shocks/springs are stock and the car was sitting level before I had the upper link added. I think the cure here is a set of adjustable shocks and a twist or two on the upper link to get the camber corrected once she goes down a little. Claudius did the mod for my rear suspension upper link.
  11. Sorry for the late reply gent's, I have been busy over the last few days. Ok where to start............stock shocks and springs. I have seen a rubber pad where the spring seats on the upper portion of the this the "perch" you removed Tony? I compared pictures of when I picked the car up from the prior owner and it is deffinately about an inch or two higher now. I wonder if the addition of the upper suspension link mod changed the geometry of the supension enough to wind it up a bit and provide an "arse up" attitude? If it has then adjustable shocks are next on the list.
  12. Don't let the stickers scare you away, my car a had a few on it as well. The seller needs to check today's market for that car, he is about $3,500 too high. It cracks me up when people ask absorbant prices for cars they don't see very much in their area. I don't know about that car being an 1982 unless it sat on a dealer's lot until it was sold in 1982. That was a common practice here in the states since these car, like many other British cars, did not change much from year to year............thank god. The last year for S2's was 1980. The sunroof mod is enough to make me turn around but
  13. Mine are sagging in the middle as well................I'll give the "screws in the middle" a try for now. I will do a little research on getting a few surrounds popped out for those of us who need them.
  14. Unless I have consumed a few too many pints...........which I have been know to do, my beloved seems to be sitting a little high in the back. I did have the rear suspension modded to include the upper link, and new lower suspension arms fabbed up but I don't remember my car sitting as high in the rear as it now? Currently if I take a measurement at the offside aft front wheelwell sill I am sitting at 6.5 inches and a measurement taken at the offside rear fwd sill is 8.0 inches. Normal or a sagging set of springs?
  15. Gents thanks for all of the kind comments. Trevor, I have my car tagged out of state where I have another residence so the smog police hopefully won't be bothering me. I had the carbs jetted basically in line with what the manual suggested with a few changes. The carbs are a tad off still and I plan on fine tuning them this weekend to get them right. I can post the specs when I'm done so you can a baseline for what works here in SoCal. Regards, John
  16. Well I have finally gotten my car back together and she is running fine indeed! I have stripped all of the rediculous smog gear off, fitted Dellorto's in lui of the Stromberg's, Electromotive coil pack ignition (no distributor to mess with), rear suspension upper link mod to include new drive axle's, bearings, seals, new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, stainless clutch hose, engine stay rod assembly, turbo engine mounts, timing belt, valve adjustment, water pump, new coolant hoses throughout and a custom exhaust. I put a few miles on today and she screams like hell!!!!!!!! I can
  17. Simon, I am new to Esprit's so getting my engine out was a learning curve to say the least. I think your car being a S3 might be a different thing altogether. My chassis at the rear does NOT have the removable bar so I had to drop the gearbox out of the bottom and the engine came out through the top. I think you would be able to get your entire assembly out through the top..............I read someplace you need to remove your rear brake rotors on the S3 if you are bringing the engine and gearbox out together as one unit but I think another S3 owner would be more qualified to give the advic
  18. I have a Esprit S1 tool kit complete with tool roll. All items are accounted for and in excellent unused condition. I need a correct tool kit for my 1979 S2 and I would like to trade with someone. I am also looking for the correct jack, jack handle, and wheel brace. Does anyone have a source or possibly a few spare white plastic clips to hold the jack handle to the recess in the engine cover? Two out of three of mine are broken. Any help would be appreciated.
  19. Lotus Part Number: Not sure British Pacific Part Number: 575383 $54.25 (USA) 800.554.4133, Valencia, CA To add to Graeme Simpson's list on the multi function turn signal assembly: If your switch is bad order a 1973 Land Rover Series III turn signal switch assembly. This was an exact replacement to the switch fitted to my 1979 Esprit S2 with the exception of the stalk. As Graeme suggested you can bend the stalk provided with the switch (Longer and different in appearance) or your can carefully remove the original stalk and installed it in the new switch for an exact replacement. The pi
  20. Tony, Check for the PM. I would like to thank Graeme Simpson for the info, without him I would have made do with something else. I will add the info to parts section.
  21. OK I am back from vacationing in the Bahamas..............very nice indeed!! I worked on my turn signal switch and here is what I came up with. I removed the original stalk assembly complete with two wires from the old unit via driving out the pin carefully. I did the same for the new assembly. I installed the old stalk assembly into to the new switch with a new pin.........functions great. A friend at work provided me with the correct pins that I was able to crimp onto the new (cut) wires (Remember the Land Rover plug is different and some wires are stray, not inserted in the plug like t
  22. My Land Rover series III indicator arrived in todays post. I am happy to report that it appears to be an exact duplicate with the exception of the stalk and Lucas numbers cast into the plastic body. Thanks Graeme for the tip. I will have to switch plugs and figure what to do with the stalk but that should be easy enough. I am leaving on on vacation for the next two weeks so I will update when I return. If any one needs this switch I ordered it from: British Pacific in Valencia, CA. Part #575383 (it is a factory Lucas item) $54.25 1973 Land Rover Series III 1.800.554.4133
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