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Escape

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Escape last won the day on February 17

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About Escape

  • Rank
    LOTUS

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  • Website URL
    www.escapesworkshop.be

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    English cars

More Info

  • Name
    Filip
  • Member Number
    0
  • Car
    Esprit Turbo SE, Eclat Excel, Elan +2S JPS, Range Rover 4.0 SE
  • Modifications
    104° cam timing, decat, longer 5th gear
  • Location
    Flanders

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  1. My 2cents, having recently rebuild our Workshop: - modern steel sandwich panels do a very good job at insulating a building, both in winter en summer. We have 100mm PU filling, seems plenty and noticeably better than before (40mm I believe). One thing to add for hot days is a skylight you can open, or an extractor. Being able to create a draft through the workshop is very useful when you're working with paint or have an engine running as well. - I agree a 4-poster is the best compromise. Very easy to use and you can always add a jack if you need the wheels free. - we also have part full height for the lifts and part workbays with storage on top. A ladder to reach the attic wont take up much room, but will make it difficult to store and retrieve larger items. Unless you add a hoist on an I-beam. - if possible, have a small door for entry and not only the big one(s). If you don't want to lose space, you can have a a big (car) door with a small door incorporated (as we do). Unfortunately, that's not possible with a roller type, but there are folding doors that avoid the problem of blocking lights an reducing useable headroom. Good luck with planning and building! Filip
  2. If disconnecting the thermal trip and/or otter stops the fans, that's where the problem is. If it was a relay, the fans would still run even with the otter disconnected. Looks like it's making contact as it should, but not breaking contact when temperature drops again. Filip
  3. Congrats Peter! I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun driving it (or even just looking at it). Be prepared to be impressed. Filip
  4. I'm sure they will all run fine on 95, but I only use 97/98 in any Lotus. Less risk of detonation on carbs, potiental of more power with forced induction and less bio ethanol as a bonus.
  5. At 350V (like Tesla uses), 350kW requires a charging current of 1000A! That's a mighty big cable... Also, a 10% loss in the charger means 35kW needs to be dissipated. That's enough to heat a moderate house in winter! It's calculations like that that keep me from believing in full EV. But totally irrelevant for the Evija. Nobody will use it for the daily commute, so charging time is irrelevant, as long as it's ready to go in the weekend (edited, Barry just beat me to it). The fast charger might be useful on trackdays and such. Easily switchable batteries would be even better, as they also avoid the problem of having to start with a hot battery after recharging. But those are all general remarks. I can only add to all the other comments, Lotus has done a great show and the Evija should have noticeable impact on how the public sees the brand. Filip
  6. Driving with a laptop hooked up is the obvious way, I try to log a run a couple of times each year, just to make sure all readings are as they should be. But without a laptop, jacking up the rear wheels will work as well. You can try with manually turning a wheel (make sure the other one can't turn the other way). I think you should be able to get it up to speed for a reading from the ECU. If that doesn't work, you'll have to start the car. No real risk if you make sure the front wheels are properly chocked and the axle stands are stable. I agree it doesn't feel comfortable, especially the first time you try it. If you're in the car, even if something should go wrong, you'll be able to stop it right away. You've been very methodical in your approach, so the ECU seems a plausible culprit. Or the connectors, as your checking continuity from the cable side, not from the ECU side. Another thought, is your speedo an original one, or an aftermarket? I had to be creative with the wiring of an aftermarket one to get it to work in my SE. Good luck, Filip
  7. Those Alfa's are 8C, length 438.1cm, width 189.4cm and height 134.1, so a bit bigger and much higher than the Esprits. Definitely good company!
  8. Have you checked with Freescan or Espritmon if the ECU actually sees a speed signal? If it doesn't, it wont transmit it to the speedo either.
  9. I can only agree with what has been said. I don't think the price is too high, as the car looks nice and is certainly very rare (even less built than the Sport 300). But if it really has seen little or no use for 10+ years, you'll be chasing problems for some time to get everything sorted and/or will need to spend a lot on new parts. If you like the car, are willing to do (some of) the work yourself and can live with a rolling restoration, it can turn out to be a good deal. Go on and see it, ask what has been done, try and verify and take your time to decide. Filip
  10. The thermostat on the Eclat is a 82° one, just like on later 9xx 4-pots. In my Esprit, I usually get a temperature reading of 80°C to 85°C, regardless of speed. And confirmed with Espritmon. Which means the thermostat is doing a good job of controlling coolant flow though the rad right around it's working point. Only when stuck in traffic will temperature rise, until the fans come on around 90°C and bring temperature back down. So I wouldn't be comfortable running at a constant 90°C. That said, you might want to check the reading, as accuracy can be off. For the record, I do have a manual override fitted for the fans, in parallel with the standard ECM control. So no risk if I don't turn them on manually, but I often do so just before parking, as that usually means slow traffic and I feel better parking the Esprit with the temperature not around/above 90°C. Dave, if a slight reduction in speed sees the temperature drop, I'd say your cooling system is at its limit. So airflow or coolant flow or both could be below spec. At constant motorway speeds, you're not really pushing the engine, so should have a fair margin. Radiator is relatively easy to check/clean/flush, thermostats are cheap, piece of mind when enjoying our wonderfull cars is priceless. Filip
  11. I'd start by looking at the radiator and making sure it isn't (partly) blocked. Did the temperature come down once you slowed down, are stay around 90?
  12. Good to hear there's a solution available! With asking prices like that and the possibility to fit a new element, I'm glas I didn't throw my old one away. In fact, I've kept everything from engine and gearbox, and have already reused some parts. Filip
  13. Some have replaced their chargecoolers with larger ones, so there should be a few originals out there. I still have the one from my burned out SE, but chances are that's leaking as well... Filip
  14. Hi Peter, and welcome. If you're looking for a Stevens car (which is a good choice if you ask me ) but don't want a spoiler, you might want to look for an 'S'. That's pretty much an 'SE', but without the chargecooler (still plenty of power) and the spoiler. Hard to find though, only produced in 1991. Alternatives would be an NA or Esprit Turbo (either the European carb version or the US Bosch injection). You could always remove the spoiler, but I thinks it suits the SE. Do keep us posted of you search. Filip
  15. Could it be ignition? Even though that has been looked at. Maye the coil heats up at high speeds, and when you slow down the airflow decreases pushing the temperature beyond the limit? If you can accelerate again, airflow picks up and temperature drops, but if you can't catch it, it stalls and heatsoak prevents it from starting again. Just a theory, and probably hard to check due to the very specific circumstances. Filip
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