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Escape last won the day on March 4 2020

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About Escape

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    Esprit Turbo SE, Eclat Excel, Elan +2S JPS, Jaguar XJ-SC V12, Range Rover 4.6 SE, TVR 280S
  • Modifications
    104° cam timing, decat, longer 5th gear
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  1. Not just today, all over the weekend I've been seeing a lot of classic cars out on the roads. Very happy to see them out and about again and people enjoying themselves (with a stop in pub as well). 2 Lotus amongst the many, an Elise and a Seven (I was too far away and am no expert so can't be sure if it was an actual Lotus but it did look the part). And another Jag XJ-SC pulled alongside ours while on our way back from a run yesterday. 😎 Never had that happen with the Esprit!
  2. My ex had one of those, a 2014 low spec one and I couldn't really fault it. It was an honest car and did everything you asked of it, except for highish speed motorway driving, that saw the oil temp rise. It wasn't my choice of course, but I never minded driving it either. Unlike most other euroboxes/moderns. The one thing that did annoy us was the emergency braking. I had it come on once when the pick-up in front turned into a side street. I was not tailgating (not even close) and he didn't brake hard or anything, but still the bloody thing thought it was a good idea to slam the brakes. I think the big flat sided pick-up suddenly changing direction and relative speed threw it off balance. We then turned the feature off, but that was a chore as it needs to be done every time you start the engine. Ooh and the radio was ludicrously expensive, no DIN-slot available so you're forced to pay the VW ransom. Despite all the above, still by far the least annoying modern car I've driven. Filip
  3. When first seeing this, I read 'mini' as 'small'. Puts a different twist to the quote!
  4. Your plan B should work to pass MOT I think, don't see a reason why the pods need to lower. As I understand it, the dim/dip relay has the dipped beam on at 10%(ish) when the sidelights are turned on. And it also raises the pods of course. So in normal operation you wont notice a difference, as you're rarely running with just the sidelights on (actually, I do on occasion run just the sidelights, mostly to have the rear lights on when there is reduced visibility but no real need for the headlights). As for the real problem, could it be the linkage that is binding? As the motor is spinning as it should without load and the gears have been checked. Maybe something got disturbed when you disconnected the linkage to clear the bowls? Filip
  5. That must be why you have the same rating.
  6. SKF or Timken every time, given the choice. I do feel bad for you, all that hard work to be let down by the quality of the parts. What supplier did you get them from? I got mine from SJ and those were fine. That was many years ago though, no need yet to do the bearings on my current Esprit (touching wood...). There are some bearings that need the shaft tightened to remove all play, but those are the conical type. These are ball bearings if I remember correctly, so should always be tight.
  7. Normally, when using a press for bearings there is a sudden increase in force as the bearings settles. Easily felt on a manual press, on a powered one you'd need to watch the pressure gauge. As said, the Esprit bearings all went smoothly. But that doesn't mean that's the case on every car, so maybe yours need a bit more. The 270Nm isn't meant so seat the bearing, just to secure everything, lots of forces acting on the assembly, with a press you're pushing directly on the bearing. Look on the bright side, if this is the problem, it's easy enough to rectify. Filip
  8. So you're the one going by the name "caravan shaker"?
  9. It could be just a sticky mechanism. Assuming the Eclat 2.2 is the same as the (early) Excle, there is a knob under the motor you can just reach (going under the bumper) and turn. That will manually raise or lower the headlight pod and will allow you to feel how smooth everything is working. You can also turn the lights on and then turn the knob, to help to motor and see if it works once the initial friction is overcome. I think the motors are Toyota, not that easy to get to unfortunately.
  10. I was wondering when I saw my 'newbie' badge. Then noticed Sparky had one too, so came looking in the forum section. Should have known there would have been talks about it already. I'll learn in due time, once I spent some more time on the forum and find my way around better. 😄 Filip
  11. I missed that part. You should press the entire bearing assembly onto the hub. It needs to be a tight fit, maybe you didn't get it seated completely with the driveshaft nut, as Gary says. If it really was that easy to fit, that would also explain some play under load.
  12. I'd expect play in the bearings to be all around, or at least move when the wheel is turned. Have you tried removing the brake pads when checking the play? The way the calipers are positioned means they will mask any play 3 to 9. Having someone apply the brakes (pads reinstalled of course) and check for differences can also help to eliminate play in the bearings. If it is indeed the bearing, you should be able to feel the play between the disc and the top of the hub carrier. I have no idea what could cause that though, especially with new bearings... Unless somehow the carriers got deformed in the process and the bearing is no longer a tight fit? I remember the rear bearings being very easy to fit, but then I'm used to fighting Land Rover bearings that often deform our 20ton press before popping out... Filip
  13. Looking nice, be it a bit dusty. 😉 If you have play at 12 and 6, that points to a problem (play) with either the top or bottom links. I'm sure you checked if everything is properly tightened? Ideally have a mate wiggle the wheel while you look for the source of the play. If it's very little, you might not be able to see it, but feel it nevertheless by putting your hand on the linkage (everywhere there could be play). It's strange you have it at both wheels, it could be something to do with the install or fit of the new parts rather than a single defective part. Filip
  14. According to the wiring diagrams, the coil always gets 12V from the ignition, so no ballast needed. So as long as you get a coil rated for 12V, you should be fine (older ones are often only rated at 9V or 7V continously but get 12V from the starter while starting, bypassing the ballast, as you probably know). Filip
  15. You'd have to have the heater on hot, otherwise the heater valve will remain closed and there will be no flow. You can at the same time put the distribution knob to the face vents, so you will not get too much hot air into the cabin, regardless of the temperature setting. But I'm not convinced there actually is a problem, unless the engine is worked particularly hard and/or the cooling system is not in good shape. I always drive with the temperature said as I want it and still going strong after 150k miles total (about 60k since I bought the Esprit). There is already a bypass in place, via the turbo cooling, that should suffice. Filip
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