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Everything posted by Escape

  1. That must be why you have the same rating.
  2. SKF or Timken every time, given the choice. I do feel bad for you, all that hard work to be let down by the quality of the parts. What supplier did you get them from? I got mine from SJ and those were fine. That was many years ago though, no need yet to do the bearings on my current Esprit (touching wood...). There are some bearings that need the shaft tightened to remove all play, but those are the conical type. These are ball bearings if I remember correctly, so should always be tight.
  3. Normally, when using a press for bearings there is a sudden increase in force as the bearings settles. Easily felt on a manual press, on a powered one you'd need to watch the pressure gauge. As said, the Esprit bearings all went smoothly. But that doesn't mean that's the case on every car, so maybe yours need a bit more. The 270Nm isn't meant so seat the bearing, just to secure everything, lots of forces acting on the assembly, with a press you're pushing directly on the bearing. Look on the bright side, if this is the problem, it's easy enough to rectify. Filip
  4. So you're the one going by the name "caravan shaker"?
  5. It could be just a sticky mechanism. Assuming the Eclat 2.2 is the same as the (early) Excle, there is a knob under the motor you can just reach (going under the bumper) and turn. That will manually raise or lower the headlight pod and will allow you to feel how smooth everything is working. You can also turn the lights on and then turn the knob, to help to motor and see if it works once the initial friction is overcome. I think the motors are Toyota, not that easy to get to unfortunately.
  6. I was wondering when I saw my 'newbie' badge. Then noticed Sparky had one too, so came looking in the forum section. Should have known there would have been talks about it already. I'll learn in due time, once I spent some more time on the forum and find my way around better. πŸ˜„ Filip
  7. I missed that part. You should press the entire bearing assembly onto the hub. It needs to be a tight fit, maybe you didn't get it seated completely with the driveshaft nut, as Gary says. If it really was that easy to fit, that would also explain some play under load.
  8. I'd expect play in the bearings to be all around, or at least move when the wheel is turned. Have you tried removing the brake pads when checking the play? The way the calipers are positioned means they will mask any play 3 to 9. Having someone apply the brakes (pads reinstalled of course) and check for differences can also help to eliminate play in the bearings. If it is indeed the bearing, you should be able to feel the play between the disc and the top of the hub carrier. I have no idea what could cause that though, especially with new bearings... Unless somehow the carriers got deformed in the process and the bearing is no longer a tight fit? I remember the rear bearings being very easy to fit, but then I'm used to fighting Land Rover bearings that often deform our 20ton press before popping out... Filip
  9. Looking nice, be it a bit dusty. πŸ˜‰ If you have play at 12 and 6, that points to a problem (play) with either the top or bottom links. I'm sure you checked if everything is properly tightened? Ideally have a mate wiggle the wheel while you look for the source of the play. If it's very little, you might not be able to see it, but feel it nevertheless by putting your hand on the linkage (everywhere there could be play). It's strange you have it at both wheels, it could be something to do with the install or fit of the new parts rather than a single defective part. Filip
  10. According to the wiring diagrams, the coil always gets 12V from the ignition, so no ballast needed. So as long as you get a coil rated for 12V, you should be fine (older ones are often only rated at 9V or 7V continously but get 12V from the starter while starting, bypassing the ballast, as you probably know). Filip
  11. You'd have to have the heater on hot, otherwise the heater valve will remain closed and there will be no flow. You can at the same time put the distribution knob to the face vents, so you will not get too much hot air into the cabin, regardless of the temperature setting. But I'm not convinced there actually is a problem, unless the engine is worked particularly hard and/or the cooling system is not in good shape. I always drive with the temperature said as I want it and still going strong after 150k miles total (about 60k since I bought the Esprit). There is already a bypass in place, via the turbo cooling, that should suffice. Filip
  12. As for the brake pipe ends, I think the mating face of DIN and SAE is identical, the difference being the part inside the union. My flaring kit has different clamping plates for SAE and DIN (either convex or flat), but only one kind of insert for the mating face. BTW, nice work making those open-ended P-clips!
  13. BLM, that's the adaptive fueling by the ECU in the Esprit that you can monitor with Espritmon, isn't it? Should be around 128? Amazed the BBC would go into that much detail. Surely can't have been Top Gear!
  14. I'm not that well versed in UK politics and the BBC, but if this was indeed one of the biggest recent protest, it should be covered in the news of a public station. Otherwise their bias is very clear. At least over here we have 2 big rival stations, one public and one private, so we don't get too many omissions. Though it's very clear both are openly supporting the way the government handles creates the current crisis, they're certainly not showing the full picture and only interviewing the same people with the same views over and over again.
  15. Escape

    Lotus Emira

    Don't buy, adopt. πŸ˜‰ Better for you wallet and much better for the animals!
  16. It all points to some resistance in the linkage, as you correctly diagnosed. Often spraying some lubricant on all the pivots is enough to get things working again. I have had this problem a couple of times, usually after summer, when the lights haven't been used much for some time. A quick spray with penetrating oil and all is well again through the regular use in the winter months.
  17. This popped up in my newsfeed this morning. I don't think it was mentioned here already, but definitely seems relevant. Both because it could be an electric 7 and certainly because it will (should) be a lightweight electric sports car. Moderators, if it has been posted, feel free to remove this topic. Personally, I'm far from thrilled. I can understand the need, if ICE will be banned it will be the only way for a car manufacturer to survive. Unless there will be execptions for kitcars or low volume types. But with a Caterham being first and foremost about the driving experience, I don't see how the sound and feel of an battery powered RC car can ever take the place of the smell and heat burning petrol and the hands-on control of a pure driving machine.
  18. I'm sure that kind of people also wears a rubber while alone in bed. πŸ˜„ (not that I'd want to get close enough to find out!)
  19. It looks pretty good for an electrical toy, but no match for the Jags of old... I find it funny how after a period where most brands were making there normal cars higher (Golf plus etc), the trend now seems to be to make the SUVs lower. @Spinney, dinosaurs are important, over time they become the black gold we all love and need. πŸ˜„ And I'm with you 100%, I remember the first time I saw a Fisker Karma drive by. I liked the futuristic look but felt it needed a nice V8 burble to complete the package.
  20. Or with a forklift, but definitely easier from behind. πŸ™‚
  21. Escape

    Nissan GTR

    I don't think there's much comparison, the GTR maybe be powerful and fast, but is a heavy computer controlled car, not an analogue driving machine like a Lotus.
  22. You must have misunderstood, the guy clearly couldn't believe a Toyota V6 could sound that awesome. πŸ˜‰ Or he really was just an envious [email protected]
  23. By pressing the brakes until they go hard (max 40 times) you effectively release all the pressure in the system, which is why the pedal goes hard: no more pressure to assist. So no need to worry taking off the accumulator. Brake fluid can sill drip out of it, so do have some rags ready and rinse with plenty of water if you do get some on the car. Straightforward job, you'll do fine! πŸ˜‰ Filip
  24. I don't see that as much of a problem. Most of the engine bay is GRP as well and not all is covered with reflective or insulating material. By removing the cover ventilation will improve, so less heat trapped in the engine bay. I've done >60k miles without the cover, no signs of ill effects. It is louder in the cabin though, especially at higher loads. So for traveling I put the cover back (if I don't forget), so we're able to have more of a conversation on long motorway runs.
  25. Yes, the boot does get a bit warmer without the cover, but you also get better heat extraction from the engine bay (certainly in the SE with the rear glass panel acting a bit as a venturi). I never noticed any extra fumes in the boot. There is an easy solution, something I've been thinking about since my first SE about 10 years ago but never got 'round to: fit a thick rubber to seal the opening between the front of the boot and the tailgate. Filip
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