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Neil Potter

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Neil Potter last won the day on August 30 2013

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About Neil Potter

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  • Name
  • Car
    1988 Esprit Turbo
  • Modifications
    Decent stereo now, alloy fuel/header tanks, K&N, braided clutch hose, Protech shocks, Aldon Ignitor, Magnecors, Flamethrower coil, Goodridge stainless brake hoses
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  1. I’ve got a roll of that mesh in the garage if you’re swinging by Lanarkshire anytime soon?!
  2. Hi cyril, the mod is where you patch two relays between the drivers window switch and the motor so the switch just trips one or other relay rather than having the full 10amp current go through the switch. Avoids voltage loss through the switch contacts. There are diagrams on how to do it eleswhere in the forum I believe.
  3. One of the best things about Ghost in the Shell. Quite something for a forty year old design to still look futuristic.
  4. Final thoughts on the door removal adventure: -The critical bits of removal and replacement/alignment benefit from having an assistant! - Label all the bits you remove from the door, careful with marking which spacers are between beam and window frame, and frame and nut. Helps to draw a diagram. You'll need to put stud and tapping plates back into the beam in a particular order to make sure they're all in the right place. -When refitting... Fit hinge pin, bushes, and bracket to the beam; then put the beam on the car in rough alignment, then refit the door shell. Then plumb th
  5. Hi Phil, A few pointers which might be relevant to your G car, now mine is all back and working much better: -Hotwire the motor first, see how much voltage you are losing through the electrics. The relay mod really helps, or try cleaning the switches/remaking terminals. After checking on the motor, try these: -Degrease and regrease all the moving parts you can see. I don't know how much this actually helped on mine, but the old gunk was more putty than grease. I replaced with silicone grease. - Watch the motor bracket when the motor is in use. Mine still flexes a b
  6. So far, not as bad as I feared. The frame came out fairly easily and is in ok shape - no serious rust. It’s very unwieldy. Am going to treat and repaint this weekend and put new channel felt in. Once the door beam was out it was easy enough to tap out the hinge pin. The bushes didn’t need much prompting to fall apart once the pin was out. I sent the pin, plus the big brackets and the support rod connecting the two, to be cleaned up and plated. Now they’re back the hinge pin itself has a lot of pitting on one end which has been masked by bits of plastic from the bush. I feel I n
  7. Thanks for the comments folks. I had a look for anyone facing the same problem and drew a blank. Even if the bushes could be pulled out somehow, I don't think it would be an easy press fit back, so I am psyched for the dismantling. Window motor is out (now I understand why there was a big crude hole in the inner door skin - to get at that bottom nut!), and now just trying to find time to pull out the frame. I have the exortionate plastic bushes for the hinge but spent some time looking for the bronze ones mentioned in other posts. The 13/16"" outer diameter seems hard to get. Have m
  8. Evening all, I’ve always had trouble with the drivers door not quite shutting and being badly aligned. There is play in the pivot bushes (can lift the door slightly on the hinge) so I’ve finally got round to replacing them. Door is off the car and there is just enough room to remove the nuts at the top and bottom of the hinge pin. Having done that though, the pin and bushes are stuck fast. Can’t get a hammer to the pin or a drill to the bushes to try and free things up. Anyone else faced this problem? I’d hoped it might all just fall apart! i am really hoping there’s
  9. I have the same knob (!). I found replacement red numbering from someone from France on ebay. Et voila:
  10. And Roy has the two tone paint on the first 200 Stevens ones! Looks great with the blue.
  11. I have the Kumhos 245s on the rear of my 88 carb turbo, they are fine and look much meaner than the 225s I was running on the 15 inch rims before I switched to the SE wheels. At the front I have the Vredestein Sportrac 3s (no longer available), but am very happy with them. I'd rather the Vredestein Sportrac 5s on all corners but not possible with the 16 inch rears. I have the SE front wheel rims in the loft but I don't believe they can be fitted safely to an 88 model.
  12. Thanks Barry. Yeah, the wrinkle finish is good for a while but I hate doing jobs like that more than once. I could be persuaded to go for glossy but I had an idea that you can get other finishes. The bits are off the car and I want them done so I can get back on the road! I take it there were no issues masking off the lettering? Where did you get them done?
  13. Evening all, Can anyone recommend a decent powder coater who will strip and coat these parts in something similar to the original Rover Vermilion? Any finish other than perfectly gloss (so matt or some kind of texture) would be OK. Not managed to find anyone willing or able to do it in Scotland yet, so looking further afield. I know I could paint them myself, but just don’t fancy it and want a result that will last...
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