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Neil Potter

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Everything posted by Neil Potter

  1. One of the best things about Ghost in the Shell. Quite something for a forty year old design to still look futuristic.
  2. Final thoughts on the door removal adventure: -The critical bits of removal and replacement/alignment benefit from having an assistant! - Label all the bits you remove from the door, careful with marking which spacers are between beam and window frame, and frame and nut. Helps to draw a diagram. You'll need to put stud and tapping plates back into the beam in a particular order to make sure they're all in the right place. -When refitting... Fit hinge pin, bushes, and bracket to the beam; then put the beam on the car in rough alignment, then refit the door shell. Then plumb the wires back in through a new grommet (old one won't survive removal). You'll likely need to make a new mounting plate for that grommet and rivet it in place - this is pretty much impossible if you only come to this last (as I did). Then fit the additional hinge support pin (the wires go between that pin and the beam) and the check strap. - You don't need to remove the latch-side plastic finisher at the top of the door to do all this, though it looks like you do. - There's a metal plate on both sides of the door shell, riveted to the shell, where the screws holding the door card to the shell are supposed to go. Someone at the factory had missed those plates by half an inch, which is probably why my door card has always felt a bit insecure. Surprised I hadn't noticed before. For both sides I drilled a small hole through card and plate, put in an M3 rawlnut and a bolt. Much better. Repairing the old holes in the card was quite satisfying too. Enjoy!
  3. Hi Phil, A few pointers which might be relevant to your G car, now mine is all back and working much better: -Hotwire the motor first, see how much voltage you are losing through the electrics. The relay mod really helps, or try cleaning the switches/remaking terminals. After checking on the motor, try these: -Degrease and regrease all the moving parts you can see. I don't know how much this actually helped on mine, but the old gunk was more putty than grease. I replaced with silicone grease. - Watch the motor bracket when the motor is in use. Mine still flexes a bit, but was much reduced on tightening up the bottom of the 3 bolts - which on mine is a real pig to get to. (I think cutting off the middle leg of the windown frame just below the mounting point would help access, don't know why I didn't do it myself on refitting). This helps the alignment, so the motor is putting more power into moving the window. - I replaced 2 of the 4 pulley wheels on the carriage plate, because I'm tight. Again, it helps with alignment, though probably replacing all 4 is best. - Don't be afraid to persuade the window frame into better alignment, eg by pushing top rear corner towards the car when the glass is down. Mine has had a tendency for the glass to miss the channel when going back up, particularly when driving due to air pressure It's better now, but I still put a bit of silicone spray on the new felt channel to help it back in. - The only other thing I can suggest, which I didn't try on mine, is to replace the wheel on the end of the bar the motor moves. This isn't a perfect fit in the channel along the bottom of the glass, possibly as it's worn down, so it may push the window a bit in and out as well as up and down. Good luck with it and let us know how you get on neil
  4. So far, not as bad as I feared. The frame came out fairly easily and is in ok shape - no serious rust. It’s very unwieldy. Am going to treat and repaint this weekend and put new channel felt in. Once the door beam was out it was easy enough to tap out the hinge pin. The bushes didn’t need much prompting to fall apart once the pin was out. I sent the pin, plus the big brackets and the support rod connecting the two, to be cleaned up and plated. Now they’re back the hinge pin itself has a lot of pitting on one end which has been masked by bits of plastic from the bush. I feel I need to replace the pin given how inaccessible it is. Meanwhile I reckon one reason for my slow window is the carry plate and its four nylon pulley wheels. One of these had worn through so was a drag against the guide “blade” as the plate moved. Have replaced the wheel and the one opposite, and the play is much reduced and its smooth. Worth emerying the blade too. Electric motor is fine and the relay mod is built and tested. New terminals on the motor should help too. All these parts (pin, pulley wheels and rivets, hinge bushes) are easily fabricable for folks with the right tools - they’ll save a packet. In cleaning the alloy beam, I noticed it can take a serious shine if you’re into hidden part detailing! Onwards!
  5. Thanks for the comments folks. I had a look for anyone facing the same problem and drew a blank. Even if the bushes could be pulled out somehow, I don't think it would be an easy press fit back, so I am psyched for the dismantling. Window motor is out (now I understand why there was a big crude hole in the inner door skin - to get at that bottom nut!), and now just trying to find time to pull out the frame. I have the exortionate plastic bushes for the hinge but spent some time looking for the bronze ones mentioned in other posts. The 13/16"" outer diameter seems hard to get. Have made some enquiries though as I'm buggered if I'm doing this again anytime soon. I've managed to lose one of the metal dumbbells out of the window switch already. Phil - sadly I've had the Esprit long enough to know that any job takes much longer than ever thought possible. But given how much play there was in the door I thought the bushes were mush - seems not! Will post any interesting discoveries along the way. Now I'm here I'm going to fix the window alignment (it doesn't easily go back into the top rear corner of the frame) and do the relay mod for the motor...
  6. Evening all, I’ve always had trouble with the drivers door not quite shutting and being badly aligned. There is play in the pivot bushes (can lift the door slightly on the hinge) so I’ve finally got round to replacing them. Door is off the car and there is just enough room to remove the nuts at the top and bottom of the hinge pin. Having done that though, the pin and bushes are stuck fast. Can’t get a hammer to the pin or a drill to the bushes to try and free things up. Anyone else faced this problem? I’d hoped it might all just fall apart! i am really hoping there’s an alternative to dismantling the entire door to get the beam on the bench. I just know it won’t go back together again easily or with the same geometry. And I’ll probably break something. thanks for any advice or moral support! neil
  7. I have the same knob (!). I found replacement red numbering from someone from France on ebay. Et voila:
  8. And Roy has the two tone paint on the first 200 Stevens ones! Looks great with the blue.
  9. I have the Kumhos 245s on the rear of my 88 carb turbo, they are fine and look much meaner than the 225s I was running on the 15 inch rims before I switched to the SE wheels. At the front I have the Vredestein Sportrac 3s (no longer available), but am very happy with them. I'd rather the Vredestein Sportrac 5s on all corners but not possible with the 16 inch rears. I have the SE front wheel rims in the loft but I don't believe they can be fitted safely to an 88 model.
  10. Thanks Barry. Yeah, the wrinkle finish is good for a while but I hate doing jobs like that more than once. I could be persuaded to go for glossy but I had an idea that you can get other finishes. The bits are off the car and I want them done so I can get back on the road! I take it there were no issues masking off the lettering? Where did you get them done?
  11. Evening all, Can anyone recommend a decent powder coater who will strip and coat these parts in something similar to the original Rover Vermilion? Any finish other than perfectly gloss (so matt or some kind of texture) would be OK. Not managed to find anyone willing or able to do it in Scotland yet, so looking further afield. I know I could paint them myself, but just don’t fancy it and want a result that will last...
  12. Well, I used to live in Oxford and took mine to Esprit Engineering near Salisbury as Geoff there is a guru. He knows the V8 very well. Black and magnolia - a classy choice, enjoy!
  13. Another recommend for Jack at Royal - did a first class job on mine that many have commented on.
  14. Mine broke in 2016. SJs told me they were obsolete, maybe they have a new source now. I found one on ebay listed as off a hillman hunter.
  15. Thanks for the kind offer, will try here first though. I was in Singapore in April - I hope your air con works! Can't be many Esprits there.
  16. Nice work. Can you share where you found the motor? Mine has been sounding unhealthy for a while now.
  17. Argh, would love to, especially as the green peril is back on the road after a protracted heatshield saga, but am pre-booked to take family to Whitby for the weekend. Next time for sure!
  18. Hi James, welcome and I think your urge for Esprit will be well understood here. I was also looking for an SE but they don't seem to come up often, so was swayed by a slightly tatty carb turbo for a lot less cash. No regrets on my part but the usual advice is good: hold out for the best you can afford. Also ask yourself how much spannering you are prepared to do as a lot of work is quite easy and will save lots. If I was buying now my first choice would be a private enthusiast selling up. Ideally get an expert to view with you, but a few pointers when looking at them: the aircon seems to be a pig to fix, if this works that's great. Look for chassis damage near the exhaust manifold due to heat. Exhaust manifold shouldn't look like it's on it's last legs. Press all the buttons to check the electrics. Check doors close properly and don't be fobbed off with a "just needs an adjustment" story, could be the hinge bushes and door removal. Steering should be smooth albeit heavy at low speed. Engine should sound like a sewing machine when warm, not hiccup or be underpowered, but you'll need to drive a few first to know. best of luck!
  19. Good suggestions from chillidoggy. I had a similar problem but much improved when i was able to access the cable drive behind the panel, clean off the old hardened grease and relube. With a long straw you might be able to get some lube on the water valve through the stereo aperture.
  20. I used jdo to get my vdo speedometer fixed: good service and fair price.
  21. All sounds very frustrating. On the cutting-out issue - you could try replacing the fuel pump relay? I had a dodgy one and I noticed it took about 30 seconds for the carbs to stop supplying fuel. On mine you can hear the pump constantly, but on yours I think it is an intermittent clicky one so hard to tell if stops? Carb float level too high so going too rich?
  22. Uk Sports Cars has a Stevens carb n/a esprit up for 23k. No mileage given, no engine rebuild, looks ok but nothing special. Even 20pc off that feels strong to me but good luck to them. If it goes i might have to review my insurance valuation!
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