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About tjs98jetta

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  • Birthday December 12

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  • Name
  • Car
    1991 Esprit SE
  • Modifications
    HKS BOV, S4 wheels, mostly stock
  • Location
    Long Island, NY

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  1. This car is apparently very close to where I live. Didn't know about it until I saw the advert at the weekend. The paint on the intake manifold looks a bit tired for only 14 k miles. Missing front lower spoiler. But overall looks to be in nice shape. No details on maintenance of course. Price looks very optimistic though!
  2. I used a lab pressure gauge I had access to. Then you need to measure the offset at the spec pressure and this needs a micrometer really, so it's not so easy to do well. My comment was suggesting the absolute reading accuracy of the sensor may not be great, resolution is probably fine. I found that I did not get the required activation of the by-pass relay until I set the actuator to at slightly higher actual value, as measured by my independent gauge, than the spec 0.65 bar. In practice, 1/2 or 1 thread of the screw on the actuator rod.
  3. In the freescan manual, a setting of 0.65-0.75 bar is suggested, BTW. I agree with Barry, 0.70 bar is fine. I don't believe the accuracy of the sensor in the engine is good enough to warrant the precision quoted in the manual, especially given the age of the cars now. If you set it too low, the engine's sensor thinks the boost is never reaching the limit and you never get higher boost, so loose a lot of performance. I don't recall the colour of the actuator spring in my Forge unit, but it was definitely possible to set it to open at below and above the 0.65 setting by adjusting the rod length. Any of the available possibilities will work fine, I am sure.
  4. I've had the Forge unit for 6 years or more with no problems. It has an aluminium body, so no rust problems, still looks shiny and beautiful. You order with selected spring tension that includes the maximum Esprit mechanical setting (SE in my case) of 0.65 bar. As I recall, set up installed in car with external pressure gauge so that opening is at 0.65 bar or slightly above by adjusting the length of the actuator rod. Then the bleed relay will be controlled by the ECU and allow boost pressures up to just over 1 bar by bleeding off pressure sensed by the wastegate actuator as long as everything else is within specs and the engine up to normal temperature.
  5. 1) Mark K 2) Pan 3) Chris 4) Barrykearley 5) Trevor. (tjs98jetta)
  6. Mine fell off too. Poked around to look for replacements and found they were uncommon/expensive. Also, it's a pain to get off,. the mounting screws seem to be attached to nuts under the trim which rotate, so trim has to be removed. In the end, I cut a small piece of 1/16 inch aluminium plate to strengthen the attachment and epoxied it back together with JB-Weld. I used duct tape to hold it in position against the windscreen while it set up. No problems after several years. And you can hardly see the join. Trevor
  7. There is a picture above in this thread. It comes as a length you cut to fit and I installed mine as one length, no join in the middle. As I said above, it has pre-drilled holes every 3-4 inches and I installed it with 6 mm bolts and washers with nyloc nuts. Easy to fit and takes the abuse, mine often scrapes the ground, but survives reasonably well. It can be polished with fine sandpaper and Armorall. I have a new set of the glass fiber Ramspott and Brandt front splitters (L+R) for an S4S, but never installed them as, like you, I got fed up with the hard ones cracking. If you're interested in those let me know. Trevor
  8. I picked up a replacement voltage regulator when I visited the UK earlier in the year. Cost is about 8 pounds. Search on E-Bay The part number is visible on the photo, it is Mobiletron VR-VW002-P513267B. Matches Peugeot and Renault models among others. Direct replacement and has been working OK for me.
  9. Picked up one of these voltage regulators when in the UK last month. The original? one on my car had leaked all its potting material a couple of years ago due to overheating and I'd not got around to fixing it. The really good news is that random erroneous ABS and coolant warning lights have stopped since I installed the new one. So I wonder if they were due to poor voltage regulation now. Anyway Paul, thanks for chasing these parts down. 8 pounds 50 plus an hour or so of my labour is a cheap fix. Trevor
  10. I can get you some when I get home next week, if you haven't found any by then. Trevor
  11. I remember the one I got was designed for a Scion (Toyota sub-brand, here in the US), so It might be possible to source it from Toyota. I used 6mm cheesehead screws and washers plus Nyloc nuts to install it. Very solid!!
  12. I installed a rubber lip on my SE to protect the fibre glass and replace the cracked black hard plastic one that had been installed when I bought the car. The link to the company that sold it is no longer active, but looking at Rhino Lip, it's very similar. It came as an 8 + foot length of creased rubber with holes about every 3-4 inches for fitting. I drilled holes into the lower fiber glass lip and used nuts and bolts with anti-vibration lock washers to attach it solidly. Attached picture shows the result. It looks good, has been very reliable, and is cheap enough to change if it gets really scuffed up. Mine's survived some scrapes and looks as good as new. Trevor
  13. Thanks for posting your experiences, Vanya. I started my Esprit up recently after a 4 month break, and saw the same oil smoke symptoms. Cleaned everywhere and couldn't see anything obvious, but suspected the lower cam cover, even though it had had a new seal early last year. No oil in spark plug holes (had seen this before). As you say, it went away and I haven't seen any obvious oil collecting, so hoping it's as you say. Will keep an eye on it, but doesn't seem as if it's going to be a real problem. Cheers, Trevor
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