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Everything posted by alzmoore

  1. Rambo Yes. Strangely when I shorted the link to fans came on...? I think I best try Freescan. Cable on the way Thanks
  2. Bibs, Yes and you are right, there is no code 11 but it's flashing 11.....!!
  3. Hello, Shorted A to B and after code 12 three times, it then flashed 11.....There doesn't seem to be a code 11 (or 20) or anything less than 13 in the manual. Does this make any sense to anyone? Thanks Alan
  4. Many thanks. Pulled fan motor out and very dry and stiff and one of the blades has picked up a small metal clip from somewhere... Hopefully that's it sorted.
  5. Hello, all running well on my1989 turbo SE until on a nice run today heater fans stopped working (the heater gives out no heat anyway due to stuck heater valve that is on the to do list) and engine warning light came on. Left it to cool for a while then started to loop out the acdl socket. For no particular reason, I turned the heater fan switch off and the cooling fans came on. If I turn the heater fan switch on, the cooling fans go off. (ignition on only, engine not running). Does this make any sense to anyone.. The fault code is 26. Many thanks Alan
  6. Thanks..That make sense. Jump wire from front to back seems to have solved it now....
  7. Thanks all. Checked with freescan and ecu is seeing the temperature and it matches the gauge closely. If I've got it right the ecu outputs 12v to the relay until the temp reaches 92C and then it earths which energies the coil relay??? Does that sound right? It appears that there is no voltage arriving at the rear relay from fuse 13 at the front of the car so it looks like another broken connection from front to back....
  8. hello, Just failed MoT because the car boiled up on the lift and so could not be emission tested.......the tester thinks that the fans didn't come on. (Strange that I could idle it forever and it never overheated but hey.....) The first fault I found was that a voltage from the rear relay wasn't arriving at the front relay which was due to the little spade terminal in the front relay holder being pushed back so not making contact. That got me to the point that if i send 12v from the back of the car to the front relay via the connecting wire the fans came on........however, I now find that I don't appear to be getting any input to the rear relay from the ecu so the fans aren't triggered. This is the case even when the indicated temp on the dashboard is about 100C. The sensor in the inlet manifold must be working, firstly because it's new and secondly because I have no fault codes and if it wasn't working it would affect other system and trigger fault codes. So I'm baffled again. Does anyone know at what temp the fans should cut in at? I understand that the thermostat opens at something like 82C but surely the fans should trip in by 100C???
  9. Thanks Andy. As soon as the skin grows back on my knuckles I will try and get it out..
  10. Andy. No they don't. The pipe from the back of the head gets hot for as far down as I can reach
  11. Hello, I've tried the following: Backflushed the heater core (from the outlet at the rear of the cylinder head all the way through to the connection back at the water pump. No dirt and full flow at mains pressure. Flushed both ways Tested the movement of the heater valve. It moves through 90 degrees from hot to cold (but I cant see the stop referred to in the manual) cracked the hose at the highest point on entry to the heater control valve to bleed out any trapped air (this resulted in a little bit of warmth, but it didn't last long) There is some kind of thermostatic control thing on the water valve. Could it be something to do with that...…………...i hope not as I've got no skin left on both wrists trying to reach the water valve. I'll cry if I have to change it...(or buy a warm coat) Thanks Alan
  12. I am ready to reassemble my 89 turbo esprit SE gearbox and wanted to check the diff preload. I only stripped the box to replace the primary shaft seal so didn't remove primary and secondary shafts. The manual has a procedure for diff checking but it looks like it's done with these shafts removed. Is there another way that avoids me removing the shafts? Alan
  13. I have finally got round to checking valve clearances and have the following measurements (in old money..thou) Inlet (5,3) (4,7) (3,3) (3,3) Manual states 5-7 Ex. (5,7) (9,7) (8,8) (6,5) manual states 10-12 So these are well out of spec, but all smaller... What I can't understand is why as things wear, the gaps have got smaller, or could they have been wrong from the start? Sorry if its a stupid question but I wanted to get it straight in my head before I start taking the cams off. Thanks Alan
  14. Yes it's gearbox oil... You are right it has a particular smell....
  15. Filip, thanks for the encouragement.... I guess I better just bite the bullet...
  16. Thanks Sailorbob...... Looks like a nightmare but I think I'll get the House of Commons to make no leak illegal and that should solve it....
  17. I knew it was too good to be true. Car has been running well but now it seems to be leaking something that looks like brown gravy from the bottom of the clutch bellhousing. The engine doesn't seem to be losing oil, so i guess it must be the gearbox seal. It's the Renault gearbox. Has anyone had a similar problem and how difficult is the fix? Many thanks Alan
  18. Many thanks Dave. I never seemed to get anxious before I had a Lotus........
  19. After 5 years my 1989 SE turbo project now has an MoT and is actually on the road...!!! ...However, panic set in when I got the dreaded flickering oil pressure light and low/zero reading on the guage at idle and flickering lights on gear changes once it got warm. I have removed the sensor and fitted a temporary manual gauge and am very relieved to find 60psi at idle when cold which drops to just under 30 when hot. At 3500 I get about 50 psi (hot). Because I suffer from extreme Lotus anxiety, I'm now wondering if that is too high as it seems to be well above the manaul spec? I guess i obviously need a new sender unit. Any recommendations?. many thanks Alan
  20. I have always had problems get a decent idle on my 1989 turbo esprit SE project, but maybe I have stumbled on the cause of the problem? It will start from cold and behave itself more or less all the way up to 85C and beyond (can't go much further as the fans won't kick, which is another problem to sort..)..If I restart when warm it idles badly and usually eventually stalls. However, if i restart when warm with the O2 sensor disconnected, it seems to idle reasonably well. But why does it not stall when started from cold and run up to temperature? The system goes closed circuit because the idle speed drops, so the sensor is doing something. The sensor is an SJ alternative. I can't road test yet as I haven't got any door yet... Before I lash out on a new Lotus sensor, does any of this make sense?
  21. Bob, It looks like you are right. Sj can't source it... So scratching my head now for a solution... I'll try the other spares outfits and scrappers, but if anyone has any ideas please let me know. Thanks
  22. Barry, Thanks for the reply. I can only get a voltage if I rotate the tps clockwise about 30 degrees, to give the required 0.5-0.7 volts. I have to clamp in this position as the holes are way out of line. The throttles are closed and it will start and run (unevenly) in this position. I think the previous owner had dismantled the bodies for powder coating, but i can't see how you could reassemble the butterflies the wrong way round anyway....very puzzling. I got a new tps from SJ and it's just the same as the one the car came with. i will get some photos tomorrow Alan
  23. Hello, I've finally managed to get back to my 1989 SE project.. I can't get the tps to align properly with the screw holes on the end of the throttle bodies and get the right voltage and my mate is convinced that there is an adaptor missing from the end of the throttle spindle. The shaft end is basically a small flat spade on the end of the shaft which fits into the tps. It does operate the switch...... but should the be an adaptor on the end of the shaft that fully fills the 'hole' in the tps... And if so where could it get one...? Many thanks
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