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Everything posted by Freemason

  1. Does anyone know what size bolts go either side to fix the lens on the housing? Seems close to M4 but looks like it's not a metric size.
  2. What holes? The hole next to the latch is for access to fit the latch. It just has a bung over it. Is that what you mean? Or do you mean the two holes where the latch fits into?
  3. Interesting, my bumber was completely enclosed at the back save for a couple of access holes.
  4. I also fit a plastic washer because I couldn't stand the bolt grating on the fibreglass. But you have to be careful because the plastic bush will alter the height of the pod, resulting in pane gap issues. Overall the way the pods fit with the bonnet is the worst system ever and I spent many hours getting it all to fit and due to the terrible design it is impossible to get perfect. If the S3 has a better design I would strongly recommend implementing that.
  5. Q1: a jack nut goes into this hole. Requires a specific jack nut tool to fit. From memory M5 but I can check if required. Q2: bonnet latch is held by a backing plate with welded on nuts. Tricky to fit because if you drop it it falls all the way inside and is a bitch to get out . Ask me how I know. You get a proper fit with shims. Q3: horrible alignment from factory, which is why my bonnet/headlamp pod shutlines are all over the place.
  6. I have disassembled everything, and when putting it all back together I'm finding the lever/spring is not doing anything, just moving up and down uselessly. I had everything cad plated, which means it would all have been stripped with something that would have eaten anything plastic. So my question is: is there a nylon bush inside this part? What holds the spring for pulling up the lever to select reverse? Why is it when the lever goes in with the spring, washer, circlip etc it doesn't seem to be doing anything?
  7. So I want to copy the original carpets and boards but improve where possible. When I have my new taillight boards made up wouldn't it be better to glue the carpet on rather than use fasteners? Could leave a flap to make the bolts to the fixing brackets accessible.
  8. So where the blue arrow and text box sits on the above pic there is no board, just a rectangular carpet with a cutout for the battery? And is the carpet on the two taillight end boards glued on?
  9. Were these boards also used on the S2? Does anyone have pics of them in situ?
  10. Mine is missing the other boards around the battery cover. A PO made some new ones up and then nailed a beam of wood across the back into the body and screwed some more boards into that. What a mess I had to clean up. So in the pic below I have the original top four, and am missing the bottom four. I don't even know where those bottom two go.
  11. The picture is of one board. Then there will be a gap and another board creating a shelf from the bottom frame of the rear 1/4 window.
  12. New rear boot boards above fuel tank. The old ones were warped, so had some new ones made up in a matching plywood, then had them carpeted by Pro-Stitch in Carlton, Sydney.
  13. I would commit to the original colour, black, which looks superb on the S2. Vinyl wrapping belongs to a different scene altogether and a classic car should never, ever, ever be wrapped IMO. Engine transplant idea is intriguing though...
  14. And what is the purpose of them anyway? I'm tossing up whether to put them on or not...
  15. Gis so you have the PNM replaccement kit for the S3/Turbo? I believe this is different to the rear caliper kit PNM sell for the S1/S2: So far looks like no one one here has tried it on their S1/S2 yet.
  16. I think there are two different sizes going through the engine cover on the S2.
  17. Good news, Roland has generously offered to provide a sample part for copying. Luckily his heater box is out at the moment awaiting refurbishing so the part should be easy to remove. I might look into 3D printing, I like the idea of scanning and reproducing an exact copy. If the cost frightens me off, it's off to the machine shop...
  18. Not a bad idea! I need to find however an original part to have it reproduced. Mine has actually now snapped in two so is pretty much useless as a model. Spoke with the plater, appartently it is the cleaning process and degreasing process that eats at the diecast, not the zinc-plating itself. I didn't have a lot of small parts so it's unfortunate that the part wasn't identified as not steel. I guess I've learnt my lesson...
  19. Matt Watts unfortunately never had the shorter ones made, only the longer ones. The metal is so thin now I can bend the whole piece with my fingers.
  20. Yeah on reflection that was a dumb thing to do now that I know zinc plating eats at cast alloy. I've bought the longer one from Matt Watts before, as my original one had snapped, I'll send him a PM.
  21. Have started reassembling heater box. Didn't get very far before I discovered that plater has ruined a few parts, namely I think those made of cast alloy. Looks like zinc plating eats at the alloy: So now I have this thingo used to adjust the flaps inside the box that has had half its metal eaten away and is ruined. Anyone know where I can get a replacement? It's the yellow part on here:
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