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Elite 4.9

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Posts posted by Elite 4.9

  1. I could easily get more data but for what? Just doing a little research on this subject finding empirical data and not someones opinion says volumes to the Na-Sayers on K&N superiority over paper. Simply read below:

    1)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DbkmThHYMs    Dyno test gave  +5.7HP with K&N over paper filter

     

    2)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJW29eDZXzg    test shows K&N flows more air than paper filter.

     

    3)  http://www.lsxtv.com/tech-stories/engine/dyno-test-4-kn-vs-aem-5th-gen-camaro-intake-options/  just replacing paper with K&N

    ·                                 K&N Panel Filter – Rear Wheel HP: 321.37 HP – increase of 8.4 rwhp

    ·                                 K&N Panel Filter –  Rear Wheel Torque: 338.5 Ft/Lbs – increase of 8.0 ft/lbs

     

    ·                                 Baseline Rear Wheel HP: 312.9 HP

    ·                                 Baseline Rear Wheel Torque: 331.5 Ft/Lbs

    ·                                 K&N Typhoon – Rear Wheel HP: 336.9 HP – increase of 24.0 rwhp

    ·                                 K&N Typhoon –  Rear Wheel Torque: 355.16 Ft/Lbs – increase of 23.6 ft/lbs


    4)  http://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/228514-my-c55-dyno-results-stock-filters-vs-k-n-s.html    

    almost  +10 hp and + 14 ft/lbs torque over paper

     

    5) http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/016727.html

     

    Overview is:
    Std Hi PO type assembly w/paper filter : 211.8 HP and 252.4 TQ.

    No filter at all: 212.8 HP and 256.2 TQ.

    K&N filter w/Xtreme lid: 214.1 HP and 253.9 TQ

     

    .   So yes, my first post was definitive because there is so much data to prove that K&N air filters are superior to paper in every way, including flowing more air, making more power ( hp and torque on the dyno ) which is also an indication of more mpg and best of all trapping more dirt.  And another great reason to use it is because it is the last one you will ever have to buy. Say green!

     

     If all these are not reason enough for you to change over from paper then there probably never will be a reason good enough for you. But that is always a persons choice. 

     

    Not sure who said that Lotus are simply GT cars and not high performance, I think I could easily get over 1,000 Lotus owners to disagree on that one including me.

    Lotus stands for ultra high performance and always has since it's inception back in the 50's with Colin Chapman, who only built cars to support his racing cars. Many of his ideas went right into his street cars. If that isn't high performance then please tell me what is.

    But for me, I have used K&N for decades with great results I think they are worth every penny.

     

    nuf said

     

  2. It is what the striker latches on to, on the door. The part I am talking about is about 2 x 3 inches. The actual door latch not the striker plate. The part that the striker plate ( in your picture) latches on to. It is this rectangle piece that is mounted to the end of the door and needs a small amount of finished trim around it just like you made for the striker on the body.

  3. Very nice. What a great idea trimming them out like that.:)

    I have another place on my '74 Elite  in the door jam only on the door latch itself. Lotus factory put these cheesy, bent, thin pieces of aluminum for a trim surround. I haven't been able to figure out how to dress them up and not use the original trim piece which looks really cheap. I think a 3D printer part may be the answer here too. 

    What does your Esprit have for the latch trim I am talking about?

     

    Richard

  4. I think you guys are missing the point here.

    K & N filters simple trap more dirt and flow more air than paper especially when carrying any load of dirt. That is why they use the on the 1000 mile Baja race cars almost exclusively. Paper wouldn't make it. Same on the helicopters in the desert storm.

    All use K&N.

    All the hot rod guys I know swear by them and all the performance shops sell a ton of them. They are guaranteed for a million miles and you don't have to waist paper ever again on an air filter.

    Same reason I use the  "System one" oil filtration system on my Lotus's hot rod engine.

    I went to extreme detailing all components having this engine custom built with a cost of over $7,000 back in the early "90s. I simple wouldn't use paper ever again but that is just my way of looking at the cost of owning a car like this and wanting to keep it maintained to the highest level as it is quite a major investment.

     I think these products both make for more power and mileage. Certainly, engine life will increase the K&N air filter. So does synthetic oil but that is another subject.

    There is plenty of proven performance data to prove that paper is not the way to go for performance. But, if you are just looking to quiet the harshness and noise of the Lotus 907 engine then maybe a paper air filter is best for you.

    I think that the harshness is heard more, because there is a larger flow of air (at all speeds) and increasing airspeed, would increase noise and raise the level of audable harshness

    Some of loudest, db tested noise level producers are accomplished with compressed air. I think it applies in this case with the testimony given here.

    Colin Chapman didn't have the money to properly R & D this engine so two of the characteristics are simply that, it is noisy and harsh. IMHO, it was almost the death of the company and if not for two outsiders (at different times) coming to the rescue Lotus, I think that Lotus cars may have gone the same sad way that their F1 team went, of which I had been a fan since 1962 when Jimmy Clark entered the picture with Lotus.

    btw, I use K&N and synthetic lubricants on all my rigs. Gas cost too much so this is one way to cheat gas prices and with all of the other benefits it has,  to me, is the only way to go. .

     

    atb,

     

    Richard

  5. If I understand you correctly, you are saying the clutch arm coming out of the tyranny which operates the throw out bearing separating the engine from the transmission is loose. Right?

    If so, it is loose because you didn't get it adjusted quite right on the cable end assembly, near the clutch arm.

    This is no big deal but, if there is too much slack, then your clutch disengagement throw, will be a little short so all you need to do is, adjust the three nuts on the threaded rod, at the end of the cable assembly, in relation to your clutch arm. So just move the arm further up the threaded rod. I usually have just a very small amount of slack on mine so not to put any undo tension the already short lives of these cables but you could put just a very small amount of tension on the arm so it could not rattle or move,  without hurting anything.

    I am wishing I had put in an hydraulic clutch when I put my drive train together. 20/20 hindsight. lol

     

    However, I am wondering how some lubrication down the inside of the cable shaft would elongate the life some. Seems that there is simply too much pressure on this cable to last  a descent amount of time.

     

    hope this helps,

     

    Richard

  6. The engine's balance point is going to be near the back of the engine block, not too far from the transmission. So I would put one pickup near that area and one forward near the front of the block. One on each side.

    The thing is, the engine and transmission will have to be almost vertical to clear the nose of the car. So, unless your cherry picker has an adjustable pivot point, the main lift chain pulls on, then then all you can hope for is to get close. It is a pretty light combo (around 350 lbs )  so you can muscle it about fairly easy with two people

    I always use a chain and put an engine bolt through the link into a large bolt hole in the block. so you will have to find a longer bolt than the one you took out of the  engine as you have to account for the chain link thickness and the original bolt will simply be too short to get a good hold on your engine..

    I also use a good deal of blankets on around the engine bay covering the body as just a slight scrap can really mess up your paint and fiberglass body if not careful.

    As I remember taking mine out, you need to jack up the front of the car as the tail of the tyranny will drag on the ground if you don't when hoisting it out.

     

    atb

     

    Richard

  7. I would try and find an "easy out" that size. Simple to use, designed for just this type of problem and no cutting required possibly into your sump pan. These are cheap and designed just for this reason, braking the bolt. So you already have the hole but with an easy out normally use, one has to drill the center of the bolt out and then insert the easy out and back out the broken bolt or in your case drain plug. 

    Have used them for many years. Works great! 

    take your pick:  https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=easy%20out%20tool

     

    Richard

    • Like 1
  8. I sold a friend a TR8 I restored years ago. He was really had no money to his name but driving this pretty, shiny, black sports car and one time, while waiting for the light to turn green, there where two girls standing at the curb and one said to him in a loud voice, " I hate rich people"  

    And as far as people driving in packs or bunching up, my reasoning is that 80% of them are on what I call "route 350" and that is where their minds and emotions are which is not still with their body nor with them in the car. They are basically on auto pilot and can't make major decisions like changing lanes. You can tell these people a mile away as they are simply not paying attention to their driving. A lack of focus. I also believe that these same people should be riding the bus.

     

    Richard

  9. Yeah, you are correct John. I shouldn't have said only.  And also removes or disperses pad dust as do the slots. I like the look as well of drilled rotors. Not to leave anything out, here is a quote from Wilwood about their drilled rotors: " SRP Drilled Performance Rotors feature a specially engineered directional cross drill and face slot pattern that improve brake response and pad performance throughout the entire range of light to heavy braking. The venting and cleaning action of the holes and slots will reduce pad glaze and disperse gasses and heat generated during the pad-to-rotor interface. The holes and slots also inhibit irregular pad compound buildup on the rotor faces, resulting in smoother engagement and improved pedal response in all conditions. The material removed also contributes to lower rotating and unsprung suspension weight."

  10. To improve braking on nearly any car, you need to increase the total sweep area that the pads contact the rotors. The easiest way to do that is to enlarge the rotor diameters which will also necessitate new calipers to match. Almost any car has adequate brakes for normal driving but these cars, we are talking about, are not only NOT normal but high performance and most older performance cars like Lotus could benefit from larger brakes. 

    Most brakes become inadequate when pushed and driven hard which causes the rotors to heat up and fad once the threshold is reached. Larger is better and vented also helps.

    Drilling holes is only for lightening the rotating mass and is not done to increase cooling as some think. The holes do help cool down the rotor faster but they also lend in helping it heat up faster so it is a wash but do it for handling. 

     

    People also think having more pistons clamping the rotor, the better it will stop but there is only so much hydraulic pressure available in a given system.

     

    Richard

  11. 1 hour ago, Jacques said:

    The general view on politicians here in Denmark, is a solid disgust across all political parties. As it is generally said and printed here: there's an abyss between the voters and the politicians.

    MOSTLY THE SAME here in the US ESPECIALLY the party in office :angry:  seems they really don't represent anyone here and  most people just disengage from it all which is the sad part as no changes can be made by being indifferent. Sooooooooooooooooooooo much corruption, lying and deceit.

    btw ..My mom, who is 93 today, was from a family of 11 kids from Denmark. 

     

    Richard

  12. I learned of this years ago when reading "optimizing your ignition" by the electrical guru Christopher Jacobs of Jacobs electrics who puts out killer ignition systems and one I have on my Elite. He was a guy who knew how to maximize every available hp from his engines and had many tricks to do exactly that. He is retired now but used to have a 450 hp Z-28 Camaro which got 28 mpg so He proved that not only hp is available which is coupled with extra mpg.

    He sold copper washers of different thickness to index the spark plug to open toward the intake valve. 

     

    Richard

  13. The main problem with most street rotors it that they are one piece design and don't allow the disc to heat up evenly without distortion.  

    Newer designs now have a two piece designed rotor ( disc separate ) usually bolted to  an aluminum top hat which allows the rotor to get much hotter without warping.

    Most after market high performance use this type of system as it totally eliminats rotor warpage so if you drive fast and brake hard these this is the type one needs.

    They are also lighter !!!

    q=two+piece+disc+brake+rotors&rlz=1C1ASUM_enUS646US646&espv=2&biw=1446&bih=761&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CFEQsARqFQoTCMbhzvjD_MgCFVj9YwodRGMJZw&dpr=1.25

     

    atb

    Richard

  14. I replaced mine but for a different reason. Simply....there are no good high performance tires available for a 14 " / 60 series ( no one makes them any more as there is no market with a 14" wheel )

    Everyone, including Lotus, has gone larger.

    so........... I went with a 16" wheel and a Z rated tire. You will have to go with a 45 series front tire with this size it is the same diameter as the original and the Elite has no room for any larger diameter tire.

    I have had lots of positive comments and of course I picked them out so I like them too. lol

    They are from American Racing Equipment  ( ARE )  and were quite reasonably priced.

     

    http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/profile/15875-elite-49/?tab=node_gallery_gallery

     

  15. The history of this plane shows it had crash landed with the tail breaking apart but was repaired by the manufacture and was said to be air worthy but I read about two 747's that had the same thing happen and they both went down.

    http://www.nytimes.com/2015/11/03/world/europe/sinai-peninsula-russian-plane-crash.html?_r=0

     

    Quote

    A China Airlines Boeing 747 en route to Hong Kong from Taiwan in May 2002 broke into several pieces as it was climbing to 35,000 feet, killing all 225 people on board. The repairs made 22 years earlier on the tail failed, causing a sudden and explosive decompression, according to the analysis by the Taiwanese government

    A Japan Airlines 747 suffered a similar failure in 1985, seven years after a tail strike had been repaired. The crew struggled to control the plane for some 46 minutes after takeoff before it crashed, killing all but four of the 524 people on board.

    If it was a missile, it had to be an air to air as it was flying at 35,000 ft and too high for a ground launched missile as they are only good to around 20,000 ft.

    Could have been a bomb aboard the plane but I think the cause was probably from the previous wreak weakening the structure. There is so much expansion with temperature extremes from the ground to cruising altitudes that metal fatigue is more than likely the culprit.

    Must have been a horrible way to go knowing there is no way to survive such a fall but probably took a few very long minutes to hit the ground.

    Richard

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