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moriniman1

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Posts posted by moriniman1

  1. What oil should I use in the Getrag 265?  I refreshed it with EP80 going back to the days where all my parents’ cars worked perfectly with Ep oil . Fast forward to 2019 using  EP80 in a Getrag is a disaster , requiring more effort to select gears even when warmed up. 

    some forums recommend engine oil , hypoy,  ATF and BMW forums recommending  Redline MT.... all for the same gearbox

    If youre running a Getrag 265  is appreciate your view on the oil you are using


    cheers

    simon

     

     

     


     

     

  2. Finally , the fans work.  The culprit was a loose connector on the back of the ignition switch!  Not that obvious when adopting the lotus position , but easy when the dash is out.

    Thanks for all your help,  Car been out of use for a year so next steps are to change fluids , hook up electronic speedo and get MOT.

    Who knows ,  I might even get to the Lotus Festival in September!

     

     

  3. On 10/07/2017 at 22:53, Clive59 said:

    You should have 4 wires, not three. There is a +12V feed(orange wire) from a relay which is driven from the ignition, (I didn't realise that was there!), so you may just be missing that connection?

     

    Hi Clive , yep found the 4th wire - slate grey rather than orange,  the only wire left unnacounted for as everything else working fine.  No voltage though so will have to remove dash again and trace it through to the failure point.

    Strangely , the wire colours and plug configuration ( connectons 1-5) concur with a  S1 "Federal With Aircon"  diagram rather than the S1  RHD non aircon version I have in my manual.

    How's your dashboard work progressing? 

     

     

  4. 11 hours ago, Clive59 said:

    I can be sure there are no relays for the heater motors on my S1. I have just been there, my dash is in the process of being put back together, and checked. Clearly visible are the bright yellow wires and a connector near the fan.

    Are you sure the switch works fine under load?

    Didnlt think of that to be honest , assumed as there was no evidence of melting I just tested with a Multimeter . There's 5 connections on the back but only 3 wires , black ground , then yellow/slate for one speed and yellow only for second speed.  Will check.  Thanks.

  5. Hi,

    Does anyone know if the heater motors have a relay  and if so where Lotus wold have placed it?   I don;t have much faith in the wring diagrams as the only wires colours and switch configuration which aligns to my car is for an air conditioned model rather than the non aircon model

    Bottom line is that one of my heater motors burned out after I'd replaced my clutch cable back in March ,  blowing the fuse , so I went through the painful process of replacing  both motors with refurbished items. These work which work fine with direct current but not off the switch suggesting my old motor may have burned out a relay or a switch.  Switch works fine so must be another component.

     Wiring diagram suggests a relay exists , but can only see indicator relay and hazard relay on the pedal box.  Must be some others I can't see such as headlamp and heater rear window...

     

     

    Cheers

     

    Simon

     

      

     

  6. Hi all,

    Yet another clutch cable failure on the Elite after only 1500 miles ;  this time with a new genuine Lotus cable and replacing the nylon pulley wheel with an alloy one. What seems to be happening is that Inner cable wears because it is not entering the outer cable at the pedal box squarely. There's no way to adjust the pulley height to compensate unless I feel like bending the mounting brackets holding the pulley which will probably end in disaster.

    Are there any successful alternatives ?

    I had a chat with Mike Taylor about using an Excel pedal box but it involves an awful lot of cutting and re fibreglassing so have eliminated this option

    I've also considered fitting push type a master cylinder inside the car but the pedal travel would be too little.  Still thinking about this option.

    Finally , I also saw on the forum that someone had replaced the pulley with a sprocket and run a small chain from the pedal to the inner cable.

    Any ideas would be appreciated and hopefully I can get some use out of the car this year instead of leaving it as a street ornament! 

    Regards,

    Simon

  7. Last year I replaced my rear diff and took the opportunity to fit new wheel cylinders and a new link pipe but  ended up swapping one problem for another... lovely diff, taller gearing but the brakes had almost gone! They were never sharp but the pedal was almost to the floor & the servo clicked and then hissed like a Cobra on acid before the brakes took effect.

    Since then , I have systematically been through my braking system and fitted new shoes , rebuilt front calipers and fitted a Landrover master cylinder (NRC8690 with a 5mm spacer plate) to try to solve my brake problem. The pedal is solid but takes a huge pedal effort to pull up. Flexi pipes are the braided type so no concerns about old rubber pipe bulging. This leaves the servo and the price of a reconditioned one leaves me looking for an alternative. 

    Landrover has been mentioned before and I think a 227mm type 50 servo (series 2 & 3) is a possibility ; the repair kits have the same reference number so perhaps there are only minor external differences. 

    http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-servo-8391-type-227mm-britpart-stc2878-p-1909.html

    Has anyone had success fitting a servo from another car albeit with some small adjustments?

    I know brakes are a key safety item but I'm loathed the spend nearly £300 without exhausting other alternatives!

     

    Simon

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  8. Hi all,

    Having had a new rack fitted last year, I'm convinced that the tyre wear on the outer edge of each tyre has been caused by incorrect tracking ( too much toe in?).

     

    Having had the local tyre place dismiss my car as "too specialist" (a euphamism they can't be bothered  with an old car), I'm having to do my own tracking for the first time ever.

     

    Having looked under the car , it doesn't look like I can do this with the track rod end in situ. There is only one nut which looks like a lock nut. Its covered in rust so maybe I am missing something.

    My Lotus workshop manual diagrams reveal nothing intelligable.

    Does the track rod end really have to be unbolted from the upright to be adjusted? Doesn't feel right , but then this is a hand built car so I guess anything is possible! 

     

    Cheers,

    Simon

  9. I’m running a 4.6 RV8 engine mated to 5 Speed Getrag with uprated clutch cover and disc good for 250 flt lbs so slighlty on the limit.  After 5000 miles , its pretty worn
    Is there a bigger clutch assy I can install for longevity?
     
    Seriously thinking about going automatic at this rate as I've read about a ZF 4 speed being fitted to a MGBv8. 
     
     
    Cheers,
     
    Simon
     
     
  10. Hi John,

    Thanks,  

    Kingston has changed and its all one way round the railway bridge but will Google local box specialists.

     

    Replacing the oil seal sounds like another huge job to replace a small component.

    If mine and Duncan's 3.05:1 diff builds ever materialise , there's real merit in dropping the box and diff   

    In the meantime , I'll get the car higher so I can see more directly underneath the tailshaft and prop to see just how bad it is.

     

    Being in Caterham, I guess you know Duncan?

     

     

    Cheers,

    Simon

  11. Hello, 

    My Getrag box has always whined a bit but recently became louder.  Got under the car last weekend and the tailshaft seal is leaking. Can this be replaced by just removing the propshaft or do I have to remove the gearbox.

    If the latter , does anyone know a good transmission specialist who can overhaul the box and replace the layshaft bearings?

     

    Cheers,

     

    Simon

     

     

     

     

  12. Hi

    I use a lotus rad with extra core. My inlet is on the RH (as per Lotus, not Rover) and outlet bottom lh. I use 2xelectric fans (12" from memory) , I also replaced the electromechanical 8v voltage regulator with an 7805-device regulator. My car runs fine temperature wise, I also made sure there is no air bleed around the radiator.

     

    Dunc.  I consulted with (can't think of the Irish fellows name now, he also worked on Lotus F1 chassis, Ronnie Peterson etc, such a long time ago now) Spydersport when they were designing this chassis, and I have number 2. I know of a flaw the original Donington chassis introduced but wondered what flaws you were referring to? 

    My chassis (or frame to give it it's correct name) has been modified by me to correct what I saw as a flaw around the rear suspension.

    This chassis was also sold with an optional front lower-link assembly that located the wheels much better and removed the dependence on the anti-roll bar for location.

    I further modified mine for coilovers all round, the easily-available range of standard springs making it very easy to get the correct spring rate for the car, mainly by trial and error. That nice Jag powerlock diff, available in a range of ratios from 2.88:1 to 3.31:1 (I finally settled for a 3.07:1 from an E-type), with the large inboard disc brakes, is quite heavy and the standard Lotus springs not suitable.

    The rear hub-carrier also has a top-link as per Excell, removing a lot of the load on the outboard driveshaft UJ's (Inboard is a CV joint).

    Rev counter was recalibrated by me, as was the std speedo (by stroking the right part with a magnet).

    The combination of a large torquey engine and higher gearing has transformed the car from the std little high-revving screamer into something much lazier, and much faster, and much more useable imho. This Lotus was supposed to have a V8 in from the start according to many rumours.

    mpg is about the same (even though 4.6l with typhoon cam, big valve heads, 500cfm carb), there's no bonnet-bulge or anything (except V8 badge) to give away this from a std car.   

    Lotus purists will hate it.

     

    Thanks

    So its sounds like I'm using the right size radiator so will check for air locks etc as twin kenlowe fans cannot seem to cool it down in warm weather regardless of temp reading. It did boil over and have been topping up ever since

     

    Would like to see some pics of your car. I bought Guy Abbots old car which also looks completely standard externally.  Will post up pics in due course as its had some additional interior work done.

  13. Got a Jag 3.07:1 diff in mine, with the bonus of inboard discs.

    Denis,  What size radiator are your running on your car as mine is running too hot.  

    I have the original 3 core Lotus one with the inlet confirgured for the V8 . inlet is top lhs and outlet bottom rhs. Creeps up to 125 centigrade as normal running temp.

    .  

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