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Everything posted by Wedgetable

  1. Wedgetable


  2. Follow up to this... I ordered one from SJ and it doesn't fit. Apparently I have an unusual -- but not unheard of -- smaller version of the ignition switch, often found on Triumphs or MG's. Still haven't found out which one.
  3. Hi Fabian,

    Amazing restoration, and so very inspiring and informative!  I saw that you have the same ignition switch arrangement as I do, and I am in need of a replacment ignition switch.  You wrote that it was from a Triumph via Rimmer Bros. Do you have the part number or any idea which Triumph it's from? 


    1. Lotusfab


      Hi Albert,

      I think it came off a TR6. There are many of these ignition switches in the catelogue and they are all very similar looking but wont fit. I bought a few that didnt fit before I got the correct one. The wiring colour coding was wrong to the switch so redid it all. Im away at the moment will have a look when I get back to see if I can find a part number. Cheers Fabian.

    2. Lotusfab


      Hi have got home and can't find the receipt for the switch so dont know the model number. The steering locks do vary and some take a diffeent diameter switch. Best thing to do is measure your switch diameter and call rimmer bros. Get them to get one from a TR6 with the same diameter, thats how I did it once I had identified possible switche from their parts catelogue. The other switch supplier moss-europe. Look at the pictures on there website, but get them to meaure diameter before ordering. Hope this helps. Cheers Fabian.

  4. The ignition switch on my S1 has been getting very hot (100C+ with an infrared probe) but not the wire itself. It looks like the contact connected to the thick red power going in, feeding everything, is the culprit. Additionally, occasionally it won't start because the contacts inside the switch probably aren't doing their job, and I have to jiggle the key a bit to make contact with the starter circuit. Has anyone tried to open up and service the starter switch internals? I've seen it done on old american cars, but this one has little metal tabs that are bent in on the bakelight switchbo
  5. Got under there and took a closer look at mine and according to this similar thread , it looks like I have the older, crappier version of the arm/bushing combo and will need replacing entirely anyways.
  6. Replacement certainly sounds like a good idea. I thought these bushings were supposed to go all the way through the control arm, so I'm a bit unsure about what's going on here. The other side looks like this, and is much tidier. Also, the other side doesn't seem to make any noise.
  7. I've been having an occasional knock in the front end going over bumps and sometimes just turning or sometimes when the weight shifts in the car. Looked under there and noticed that it looks like the bushing has crept/popped out of the lower control arm -- is this something that can be pushed back in with some silicone lube and persistence? Am I going to have to compress the spring prior to undoing that bolt if I have to? Any advice is much appreciated!
  8. Kind of blurry screencap from the video, but it shows the vent lines going into the ARO valve.
  9. Hi Brian, I don't have pics handy right now, but those clear vent hoses connect with the anti run-on valve, which is connected to the carb side face of the air filter box.
  10. By sidelight, you mean the signal lamps embedded in the bumper? I thought about that... maybe getting hold of the eurospec lights with the amber and clear sections, if they'll fit in there? I guess eventually I'd try to change the whole front bumper to the eurospec one and that would take care of it.
  11. Thanks for the awesome reply Tony! I remember those Cibies now... I had them on my old Scirocco. Those lenses are beautifully made. Mounting them to the spoiler -- I wonder if they'll bounce a bit from the thinner material there. I think I'm still considering the Phillips DRL's because of that, and I can tuck them in back farther. I just noticed that the Phillips don't look like their mounting hardware is on any sort of pivot or gimbal, so that could be a problem mounting to the spoiler angle.
  12. zipbyu, andrewp 1989, OnAir, fsrowsell, Mesprit87, Mityrare, aerobat, Kam, MD911, 73JPS, Mark T-C, Wedgetable Hope to meet some/all of you sometime soon.
  13. Wedgetable

    1978 S1

  14. Wedgetable

    01 lotus Qe

    From the album: 1978 S1

  15. I would like the added safety of daytime running lights, but I don't think I want to be popping the main lights up all the time -- too much motor and linkage wear, making the flakey Lucas electrics work more than they need to. I thought I'd get some Phillips 8x led drl's to mount just under the bumper, since they don't draw too much current and are discreet rectangular things. (There's also the exhorbitant fancy new Phillips.) Then I thought about getting period fog lamps and replacing their halogen bulbs (H1's ?) with the LED equivalents. Are there examples of S1's with period-correc
  16. Thanks guys. I got both mounts replaced and wrapped the one on the exhaust manifold side with insulating wrap. It looked like the PO put in the engine mounts the wrong way... I'm discovering a whole lot of wrong with this car that I didn't see nor was disclosed to me when I bought it.
  17. Hi all, So my newly-rebuilt engine just went back in last week, and a new thing has come up after about 15 miles of driving... when I put the car into gear and try to give it some gas, the forward end of the engine is rising up out of the bay, so I figured one or both of the engine mounts is not doing its job. Just to comfirm what I'm looking at is the engine mount puck on the passenger side (NA) is separating at the plate so it's letting the engine go: Short video: This is not normal, right? There isn't another likely reason
  18. Thanks Paul, Yes, I'm pretty paranoid about leaking carbs and regularly check them with a paper towel wipe around them -- they're clean and dry. I did remove the distributor, and yes, that o ring seal is definitely flat. There was already oil seeping past the seal in the shaft. Seeing that it's not a moving part that the seal is against, I figure I should be able to replace that seal with another o-ring seal suitable for oil and heat conditions there? Now I'm thinking of replacing the distributor guts with Pertronix...
  19. Thanks guys, I will definitely take a look at the o-ring first. I see some threads discussing the distributor removal, so that should help. I earlier had the distributor cap off to check inside, and it looked clean and dry inside. I'm pretty sure it's not leaking out the intake cam cover... it seems dry all around that cover.
  20. Agh. I'm tracking down all the leaks on my S1 907 engine, and have sort of got the valve covers under control, but there seems to be an oil leak coming from up high and pooling underneath the distributor. It looks like it's coming from the distributor's mounting plate where it meets the block. I can see 6 bolts securing it, but it looks like I'd have to remove the intake manifold or at least the carbs to get at it. Is there an easier way to get at those bolts that minimizes the amount of disassembly / potential damage, or am I looking in the wrong place? Thanks everyone!
  21. Ha... I haven't gotten to filters yet. I was just getting oil to replace the stuff that was leaking out of my engine.
  22. Thanks Brian, The video is kind of crappy, but the choke cross connect is actually on the outside of the carb fitting -- I'll get some clamps on there. Ah, the disconnected breather line in the red box -- that was me accidentally knocking it out. I just put it back in earlier. Good eye. I checked the fuel feed line where you describe for the same pulling or pushing and it seems ok.
  23. Surprisingly, it was at Canadian Tire for just under $9 a litre. Like I mentioned, it's got a silver cap, not the gold or red that people mourn the discontinuation of, but Mobil's site shows it still has over 1000ppm zddp.
  24. Thanks for the replies. I will keep an eye on this when it gets warmer. It just looks kind of scary having all the fuel backed up in a tube that just leads into the air box.
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