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About makepeace

  • Birthday 27/08/1990

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  • Name
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    Lotus Elite 504 '76
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    Hermanus, South Africa

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  1. Following the instructions here Chart.pdf For 3.2 mm toe in (I am not sure if this is per side or total ?!) and 14" wheel size, I get 2' + 29' = 31'. If I had to guess, this seems like it should be for one side, giving 1 deg, 2' total.
  2. A follow up after doing some digging online, it should be relatively easy to calculate, but one thing that seems critical is whether the mm value is based on the diameter of the tire or the rim. Any ideas?
  3. So I removed the pod and took everything apart and lubricated etc. Same story after reassembly. Next is to remove both and compare and then possibly look at a replacement solenoid. Thanks for the suggestions all!
  4. Hi everyone, 2nd last thing that I need to get sorted for roadworthy is wheel alignment. All the shops here say they don't have the spec in their machines and to do it manually they need it in minutes and degrees. Looking at the workshop manual, they are listed in mm for some values (ie toe). Does anyone know what the spec should be in minutes and degrees? Or how one could reasonably calculate it? Thanks in advance.
  5. Thanks for the thoughts, agree with doing it properly. Will see if I can source parts here in SA first.
  6. Hi everyone, next problem holding up roadworthy-ness. Since replacing my cracked radiator, there is coolant weeping out the weep hole. I suspect the rest of the pump is fine, so I would like to limit the cost and just do the seal for now. Firstly, is this a bad idea? Secondly, does anyone know where one could purchase the seal only? From what I've seen online - all the suppliers sell a full rebuild kit only. Thanks for any help!
  7. Hi all, My 76 Elite's right headlight takes quite a while to pop up when compared to the left. Probably around 10s. The roadworthy centre marked this as being a problem. Anything particularly I should check and any way of solving this or is it expected behaviour? I mentioned to them that they are vacuum operated and that this sort of behaviour could be expected, and it seems like they might give me a pass for it, but would like to try if there is anything that can be done.
  8. Thanks for the response. Sorry I meant to say retorque the cam towers - that is what is leaking. Ah cool, that is what I was hoping for - thanks. Will see if I can find the thread.
  9. Hi all, my cam covers are the wrong way around and leaking badly (as well as the head). I want to remove them, repaint, swap them around and replace the cam cover gaskets as well as retorque the head. Is this possible with the engine in situ? It seems very cramped at the exhaust side. Any tips for doing this with limited access to tools (ie engine hoist, lift etc?)?
  10. Awesome, thanks all - sounds like the way to go. In the meantime, anything against taking the thermal switch out if the circuit?
  11. Hi everyone, I have a peculiar issue with my 1976 504 Elite. After being on for some time - say 30 min, the headlights switch off and the pods go down, even though the switch remains on. When touching the switch and console area around it, it is quite warm. I replaced the switch, same story. I think the bulbs I am using are 55 W. Any ideas?
  12. Thanks for the thoughts! Glad to hear that the feeling is the compression is okay. I made some headway this weekend. Having the plugs out to test the compression led me to clean them up a bit, and somehow the gaps were ridiculously out. I don't remember setting them that way, but the gap was closer to 1mm than 0.6. Setting back to normal fixed my running issues for now. Something else I discovered was that the accelerator pump linkage was loose on the shaft on both carbs. Tightened that and set the pumps up correctly also to get the right volume and rate. Something is still not 100% right with the carb setup, but everything is running more or less okay for now. Next step is suspension and exhausts and then should be ready for roadworthy. Thanks again.
  13. Hi everyone, After running problems with my 1976 504 Elite jumping from one place to the next: fuel supply, vacuum, carbs, ignition, etc I decided to test the compression. All tests done with butterflies fully open, all plugs out and a good battery pretty much at sea level. Hot tests with engine at temperature, cold test at ambient - about 25 deg. Cold wet test with 5ml of ATF in each cylinder. Please have a look at the attached image and see if you can help me interpret the results. Firstly I can see that my tester is probably quite bad - it seems to measure high as the compression readings are a lot higher than they should be for this engine (150-170 for Lotus 907 LC hot as per a thread I found). That being said, I can see carbon buildup on the pistons (I imagine cylinder head too), so perhaps compression is just high due to the reduced volume. Then, it seems like the inter cylinder readings are okay, but not great. It seems cylinder 3 is a bit over the 10 psi between cylinders spec. Then with the "leak down" wet test, this seems to indicate a rings problem, particularly on cylinders 1 and 4. Question is, how bad is this really and what am I looking at. Will I ever get the engine to run okay with these measurements, or is a rebuild in order?
  14. Hi all, I'm tuning carbs and setting timing again. Something that's always been a pain is trying to do this as a one man job. I don't have the ear to tell what 950 rpm or 3500/4000 rpm is, and it's not possible for me to be in the driver's seat and adjusting ignition timing and carbs at the same time. Is there any way to connect an external rev counter somewhere in the engine bay? Or any other good ideas? Would appreciate any tips!
  15. Thanks for all of the suggestions, going to see what I can get away with that actually needs replacing. @dmottram, I respect your view, but I think it's pretty reasonable to keep spend in line with the value of the car. In my view (which I don't think is that unpopular), classic cars are assets as much as they are recreational pieces of history.
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