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About makepeace

  • Birthday 27/08/1990

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  • Name
  • Car
    Lotus Elite 504 '76
  • Modifications
  • Location
    Hermanus, South Africa

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  1. Hi Pete, sounds great! Apparently the flywheel is different between S1 and S2. I am not sure on the practicalities. I am used to the pain of shipping to SA by now and have worked out some fairly bearable methods. I will be in touch with you via PM.
  2. Hi, I am looking for parts to do a manual conversion on my rhd S1 Elite. I already have a Getrag gearbox, looking for associated bits and pieces.
  3. Hmmm, yes dynamic is probably the correct word, but there is no dynamic advance applied at idle so idle advance == static advance. It is a bit higher than spec, intentionally so, as I've read that the spec is way too conservative and that 12 to 15 is more reasonable. Also have a freeflow exhaust and free-er intake. The distributor is new so it should be good. Regarding the other components, thanks for the suggestions. The only remaining non replaced parts that could be an issue is the carbs, but I've just ordered a serious rebuild kit so will get that sorted soon. In my experience when I've had it running nicest, the accelerator pumps are very finicky. I did do a compression test recently and the values are not great. Ranging from 10 to 20% roughly over spec. I've also ordered a Colourtune so that might help point out dodgy cylinders. Thanks TAR also for the diagram. The markings I was talking about are the coloured ones on the timing sprocket which do not line up with that diagram.
  4. Thanks for the thoughts and good points. So am I right in thinking that all that really matters is the markings on the crank and cam sprockets being correct? And following from that, the distributor and sprocket can be in any relative orientation and the timing mark on the crank will still indicate the advance correctly (with a timing light, which is what I used to set the static timing at idle)?
  5. As per the title, this seems at odds with the locations and positions of the coloured dots. Engine rotated to TDC in the photo and the static timing set at about 15 deg. For good measure, these are the cam sprockets. Engine runs okay (for all I know) but a chap I took it to recently reckons it's quite badly under powered and the previous owner always said it's not firing on all cylinders. Any thoughts?
  6. I've got a 4 way gauge synchro and just ordered a Colourtune. Wise words!
  7. Thanks John. The Colourtune seems like a really useful tool, definitely will get hold of one. I suppose one could use it to tune the air fuel mixture all the way through the rev range. Probably the only thing that one would struggle with is the pump jet then. Re. the idle jet, my understanding is that it's probably mostly responsible/important for the progression to the main jet. The idle mixture screw is probably mostly responsible for the idle air fuel mixture, assuming the idle jet is in the ball park. Does anyone have any thoughts on a starting point? Is something like 10% above the normal jet spec a good place to start?
  8. For clarity this is on an 1976 S1 Elite Spec 5 with free flow exhaust (same 4-2-1-2 setup as the standard system) and cold ram air intake. The standard jetting is as follows from the service manual: Choke - 36 mm Main jet - 160 Main air corrector - 230 Main emulsion tube - 7772-8 Idle jet - 50 (55-58 recommended) Idle jet holder - 7850-9 Float weight - 10g Float height - 16.5-17 mm Needle valve - 170 Pump jets - 38V 42H (50H best available alternative) Starter jet - 70 Starter emulsion tube - 7482-1 The goal is to tune for best performance, fuel consumption and emissions are pretty secondary - our emission requirements are not that strict in South Africa.
  9. Hi everyone, recently got a free flow stainless exhaust fitted, and I'm in the process of improving the air intake system. I will be using the standard airbox, with a plenum fitted to where the S1 spoiler would normally go. One part of the plenum will push air into the radiator vent on the bottom of the car and another part will vent air into the air intake pipe. I am undecided yet whether I will use a cone here on the plenum side or a flat k&n in the airbox, but probably the latter for wet weather concerns. Does anyone have an idea of what jetting I should use for this setup? I am currently at the spec 5 setup for both ignition and carbs, and I have read a number of recommendations that the idle jet is too weak at 50 for the standard setup and should at least go to 55. Hoping for some recommendations for main, idle and pump jets for a free-er flowing exhaust and intake system. I will probably get the car on a dyno at some point, but would like to try and get the best starting point I can.
  10. Thanks Pete, good to know that there is not some other vital piece missing. Brian, thanks for the detailed thoughts. I agree with you and from what I can see from the posts on the subject, that brace is vital to the integrity of the rear. I made up my own brace and the rear is all back together again (I heated up the hub carrier in the oven to 120 degC which worked a treat for getting the bearings in and out). Regarding the diff studs, one of them is the correct stud, but the other as you noticed is a socket head cap and I think it's not the right size as well... Pretty dodgy... I have a suspicion that someone who worked on the car bashed the #$&@ of the stud trying to get it out and destroyed it, when there is a far easier and reliable trick to doing this bit... Will add a replacement on the next parts order from the UK. I have been meaning to post a proper update detailing all of the above, but something is broken on my account. I recently upgraded my membership so that I could upload more attachments, but something seems to have gone wrong and the "max total size" of attachments did not update. Any ideas on how I can get this sorted? I've tried clearing data, cache, cookies etc and logging out of my accounts but it's not fixed it.
  11. Thanks Lance, figured it was that one. From what I can tell it seems that there is another device fitted to the forward mounts of the diff. Mine doesn't seem to have that either... Important?
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