free hit
counters
mikeeech - The Lotus Forums Jump to content

mikeeech

Basic Account
  • Content Count

    1,510
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

mikeeech last won the day on May 27 2016

mikeeech had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

301 Excellent

1 Follower

About mikeeech

  • Rank
    LOTUS

More Info

  • Name
    Mike Channell
  • Car
    Elite
  • Modifications
    Galvanised chassis, Poly suspension bushes, getrag gearbox, everything renewed
  • Location
    Wellingborough

Recent Profile Visitors

4,802 profile views
  1. Oohhh the aluminium trim around the switch panel looks in good nick. I'm jealous
  2. That's a shame. Restoring a car is a long committment and takes more time and money than I think anyone appreciates at the start of the project. Enthusiasm will always win early on. I hope you find a good home for it.
  3. Paint choice is hard. You do only get one shot at it so I can understand your uncertainty but remember though, that any colour with freshly painted car will produce an amazing transformation. Especially when sealed and polished with a good carnauba wax that will really make it shine.
  4. That's definitely correct. I have the granada calipers and GT6 discs from the éclat sprint on my car with discs and calipers to rebuild from an elite and the discs are bigger as OEM on the elite
  5. Bead blasting I very cheap and a tin of but black paint is equally cheap. I'd go for the £280 option
  6. Personally I would keep the engine standard. The longer stroke of the 2.2 produces more torque but you can do a lot with a 3d map with a modern ECU which will improve the original designs efficiency. You don't need throttle bodies to do this, but throttle bodies will improve things further and can be done over time.
  7. The base of the mirror has serrations on the bottom that locate in serrations on the chrome base. I have modified an open ended spanner by grinding away at the outside to make it a thin as possible but I still cannot move the nut to tighten it. A ring spanner won't go round the back since the nut is hard up against the shell of the mirror. I'm reluctant to put the mirror back on until I get them tighter since to Tang's that bend will probably snap off.
  8. I used t&l engineering in Bedford. I've used them for years (30 odd) to rebuild engines heads etc. My dad used them before that with no issues
  9. I thought I would share some more images. My spares box drawer is now finished I just need a foam block which is on order to place some spares. It should be good for two levels so might house a good few critical spares but no tools. These might have to live in the spare wheel... The panel behind the lights is finished with a pocket around the hatch catch which is cool. Once in situ it needs some spacers screwed to the boot floor to locate it properly and to stop it bowing in. I would post some pictures of the finished boot but everything is now black with carpet up the sides and across the back so it's difficult to see in a picture... I've fixed the hatch microswitch also which avoided me finding a replacement which is cool. Now the boot is finished and all the cables run to the drivers foot well I have fitted the rear trim. This was a bigger job than I expected since I had the change the rear seat belt mounting brackets which required lifting the body off slightly again. This only took a morning but made fitting the rear seat more of a job than I expected. I've now moved on to some other odd jobs... Siting the front washer bottle which I was going to run the water pipe to the underside of the front bulkhead where I was going to fit some proper washer jets. Now I have found out why the originals that come up through the heater intake are as they are since the bulkhead appears to be an inch thick here! If anyone has proper washer jets fitted I would appreciate some photos of the location! I've also been poncing around with the bonnet release catch... The plate that holds the cables to the hinge plate baffles me at the moment. Can someone post a picture of theirs? I've got to the sharp end of the re-wiring now so will make a frame to hold the dash centre panel which will avoid me having to have the dash in whilst I'm wiring it all up and should make for a much easier job running cables. One other thing... Had anyone had to tighten these nuts up before and if so how do you get a spanner on them!
  10. I did the rear trailing arm in poly since to replace it I think the body has to be moved... I could be wrong on that. My ARB is poly, the rest is rubber. I've not driven it at all so can't comment on how it drives so this is just my two pence worth...
  11. I have now finished re wiring everything rear of the front seats including some neat hidden LEDs on the rear passengers compartment that will add some accent lighting since the original 70's interior lamps will be very dull. I've started retrimming the boot and thought I would share progress on the battery boxes... I know they are notionally quite simple but I now have a drawer for some critical spares... Cool The battery side has feed throughs for an in situ battery charger the opposite side looks a bit ropy until it's covered in quilted leather obviously the drawer needs a base and a handle before that is covered. I will line the drawer then cut some foam to hold a selection of bulbs, fuses, relays, spanners etc. the panel behind the lights is now also quilted leather but I need a new microswitch for the rear hatch before this is fitted... 
  12. Will the power rating of the diode make much of a difference? Clearly if you use a low power diode then it will burn out but if you used a power diode it would still drop 0.7v across it. You might pay more but it's not like you're buying lots of them... The wiring will take 16amp I would guess. It's clearly 12v then max power will be 192 watts... I'd go north of that.
  13. I think she is listening to an imbalance in the carb setups
×
×
  • Create New...