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Everything posted by top-plumber

  1. So the TE has now done 600 miles and is behaving it’s self perfectly. Straight through the mot with no problems. Keeping off boost ATM but engine feels strong and tight. Brakes are sweet and all gauges read normal. Bit of creaking on the front when reversing on full lock out of my garage on the dropped kerb. Investigation needed. Long term front end will be refurbished but for now I’m just driving it as much as I can. I love these cars...
  2. I have been driving my car with the pump for 600 miles now and it runs at start up for about 5 sec then cuts out as expected. The vac rail does most of the work under running conditions but when demand is higher the pump runs for probably 3 sec then cuts out. I’m totally happy with the outcome with the switch and relay supplied by Ian. Maybe because the later cars rely totally on the pump the demand becomes destructive for the relay and as any failure is more crucial needs the more robust solution. However mine is perfect ATM. Happy daze
  3. My 84 Turbo Esprit is missing the front undertray that covers the oil cooler pipes. Does anyone have a spare floating about? I know SJ advertise them but thought I would try here first. Mine is the 2 piece unit. Cheers wayne
  4. Very smart indeed scaramanga. But we are calling the car “ Moore” only the car
  5. Me and Shelly Schumacher will be attending as usual... Happy Easter...
  6. As I posted in my car thread. If you set the pump vacuum just below the rail vacuum the rail will peak and hold the vacuum and the pump will work on demand. As long as the rail gives you enough vac. My engine is 15” at idle so really good as it’s all new.
  7. Ok so this is my understanding of the servo brake vacuum pump saga. My car pulls 15hg on the gauge I have fitted when the engine is running. After engaging the brake peddle the engine alone struggles to replenish the servo quickly enough to assist the brakes for a further rapid application of the brakes. This is where the vacuum pump takes up the short fall. It engages immediately that the pressure drops in the servo and pulls it straight back up to operational levels then cuts out via the vacuum switch. The pump vacuum is set at just below the vacuum rail as to facilitate the rail doing the heavy lifting and the pump backing it up under high demand. This is all being carried out in the workshop but I don’t expect the performance to be any different when on the road. Overall a good outcome in my opinion and looking forward to trouble free assisted braking for many years. Tah dah....
  8. Ok. I have proved to myself on my car the chattering relay is definitely a leaking servo. When I remove the valve elbow and put a thumb on the end the vacuum builds immediately and shuts off the pump. If you take the relay out of the equation and just run a live through the switch you get the same outcome when pipe is connected to the servo, rapid pump fluctuations. I’m going to leave this alone for a while as when I get the engine running the vacuum rail may take up any vacuum that leaks away hence leaving the pump static until required. Question... does a servo have any vacuum pressure loss as a matter of course or should it hold pretty static over a given time period?
  9. The valve in this position allows the switch to be pulled in both directions @Andyww already here fella...
  10. That’s how I’m set up as your second description. How ever if I move the valve from behind the pump to infront of the switch it will have the same effect as we are looking for but it will stop any vacuum from the rail interfering with the switch inadvertently because the valve is now stopping any reverse pull. Yes but where you have the valve behind the pump the rail can reverse pull on the switch. If you move the valve to behind the switch it will stop the rail reverse pull but still allow the pump to build vacuum.
  11. I think we may need a nrv between the vac switch and the vac rail as this may have some effect on the switch when the rail is pulling vacuum? Direction facing the switch obviously. Yes but I think we need one after the tee piece protecting the switch from the rail vac? Maybe move the pump nrv to before the switch to achieve the same outcome?
  12. This is all without the engine running. I’m going to put another valve in behind the tee piece to stop any effect coming back from the inlet manifold into the vac pump manifold. Barry I have checked the servo elbow and it’s good. When the engine is running it should continually top up the vacuum leak at the servo and the pump will come on when demand is high.. that’s my theory anyway.
  13. It’s definitely a Leak that’s causing the problem. I have just disconnected the servo pipe and blanked the end to leak test. When it comes upto vacuum it shuts of solid and holds. I even by passed the relay and same . The smallest leak is what’s causing the chatter. Maybe even the servo leaking. I’m convinced this is the problem. Leaking. I’m going to run a new pipe outside the car upto the servo and check again. If it’s the servo I will be able to tell immediately.if not then it may be a joint somewhere. Either way, I may just ditch the intake connection as the more joints the more chance of leaks.
  14. I’m having the same problem. I think it’s a leak on my system as when I had the switch set at 25hg it wasn’t doing this. What’s your solution Andy? smaller pipe work? accumulator?
  15. The engine is rebuilt and everything is new so compression and consequently vacuum should be at optimum levels.
  16. About 12hg on the gauge I have fitted. I don’t think a reservoir will be necessary as the pump will probably keep up with the demand. I also kept the original connection to the manifold to act as a stand by Incase of pump failure. Gin? Whiskey? Vodka? All 3?
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