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Kristof Thys

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Kristof Thys last won the day on October 21 2014

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  • Name
    Kristof
  • Car
    Exige S
  • Modifications
    ...
  • Location
    Belgium

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  1. The real fun starts when you simply keep valve 2 in place electronically, but disconnect the vacuum and have it run through a separate valve you then switch from the cabin. Like I did. So you can have the car always loud or always quiet with the flick of a switch. Mind you, don't do this with the OEM back box, esp. not the +380 one (due to the very small pipe diameter for the "quiet" trajectory => lots of back pressure).
  2. When I replaced mine, it took me all in all 7 hours. Access from underneath is not sufficient so you need to remove the cover that sits behind the boot carpet, remove the upper engine trim etc, remove undertray, remove diffuser, remove back box, remove Y-pipe, remove both manifolds, add extensions on the O2 leads, replace all other stuff, add all new gaskets, have bolts stuck etc. I would say it's 4 hours MINIMUM.
  3. On the Larini's the valves work 'the other way round' mechanically: valve OPEN is quiet mode, valve CLOSED is loud mode. Electronically it's transparant to the car, so it works as OEM. This was at least the case for the V1 version, but I am pretty sure the V2 version works the same, only the "straight pipe" now goes through the muffler (but isn't perforated). Valve open: absorption path is taken by the exhaust gasses, valve closed, straight through path is followed. So NO risk in burning the valve on track as it's always open. V1 version I had a few weeks on my car. Valve closed= exhaust gasses forced through the straight pipe, which is loud mode: But either way, they are too loud for track. I've never tracked my car, but I have a custom made back box with override switch so I can switch between permanently quiet (absorption muffler) or permanently loud (straight piped). If you stay with the OEM manifolds with cats, such a setup IMO would work for quiet track days in quiet mode without harming the engine (back pressure) or burning the valve (valve sprung CLOSED without vacuum and not open).
  4. That's the spot indeed. I use a wooden block to spread the load.
  5. Like per my post: you need the grille and the diffuser; not the finisher. The 380 cup diffuser is different to the 430 cup one. I fitted the 430 cup one.
  6. It's not a binary approach; just do the sensible thing. Don't weld pipes in restrictive manifolds but get good aftermarket headers. If you want to run with or without sport cat is your choice: like you say, it will work with just 2 "post cat" O2 simulators on the lambda sensors. DixieV6 ran his car for +4 years that way, including a good CAI (with air straightener). However, this setup does drone with the OEM back box. Come 2y inspection time, swapped the straight pipe with a sport cat. I am running headers and a 100-cell (not 200-cell) cat for over 2 years now, with same type of CAI and straight pipes internally in the customised back box. Neither of us have had any issues, both cars on stock tune. At WOT I am seeing on my wideband O2 AFR's 11:1's where when stock I was at 10:1's fcuk rich at WOT. Long term fuel trims are at +3.5 IIRC. So all good. Dave IS correct that on a SC application, freeing up the exhaust too much might decrease low & mid range power. EDITED to add: you say "swapping" the headers/manifolds over IF they use the sniffer at inspection... one extra reason to get decent headers: swapping the decat pipe with the sport cat will be 100x easier than swapping manifolds once.
  7. Disconnect the connector underneath the seat; the seatbelt warning will disappear, but the passenger airbag will still be active.
  8. @Tex the only reliable way I find to unscrew the O2 sensors is by unplugging them and "turning" the lead as you unscrew them. They are indeed a pain in the a$$ as the cables are routed through the subframe I see. I disconnect them, free the lead/cable and remove completely from the car. What modif are you doing to the cat? slip-on flange for the BB?
  9. @KIMUTAKU - yes, the OEM cats are known to fail (on track). When this happens they break apart and chunks get blown further into the exhaust system. That is best case... these OEM cats sit very close to the cylinder heads! Why didn't you just install a sports cat in your Larini setup; added benefit of additional power, less smell (but not completely gone), and no worries about the OEM cats breaking into pieces.
  10. I am with Paul; there is no reason whatsoever why adding/sliding on a straight-through absorption muffler shouldn't work or be "dangerous" to the engine, "even" with the Ti exhaust.
  11. That's the bizarre thing: as stated above already, I also measure exactly 20.5cm of thread on my 205/45/17 PS4's. They are 88W speed index as I posted above. @mario308 measures the same thread. So HOW can other be measuring a LOT less than 205mm thread width? The rim width (I am on a 8.5" wide rim front as opposed to OEM's being 7.5" wide) doesn't have anything to do with things. Even more so: they should look a lot more stretched on my 1 inch wider rims, but looking to the pics OP @Cyborg posted, my front tyres don't look nowhere that stretched; and OP is on a 7.5" rim! Something going on with the tyre batches? 88W vs 88Y tyres? BTW: for me PS4 are much better than the Corsa's
  12. That got my so intrigued that I just ran to the garage (through the pooring rain... again) and measured my PS4 205/45/17 88W. They are on a 8.5" rim and the thread is exactly 20.5cm... so there is something fishy going on with your tyres. Are they genuine Michelin? (joking aside, I once had, without me knowing, fake Uniroyals on my car... they were "made in Cermany" (as opposed to Germany))
  13. thread resurrection as mine seems to get worse... any pointers on how to remedy a loose/rattling passengers' door window when completely lowered? Used to "fix" mine by raising it just a few mms, but now that doesn't work anymore. Appreciated.
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