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Kristof Thys

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Kristof Thys last won the day on October 21 2014

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    Exige S
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  1. not my picture... but indeed on this forum. Big bore KT system doesn't seem to clear the gearbox (rather than the sump) well?
  2. yes, IMO they are. You should change the title however, the V6S and 390FE are both S3 Exiges...
  3. On the analog dash you typically get the 3 red lights at 4k RPM when the car is in limp home mode. I have no clue what the "AIM dash version" of that looks like; same goes for the CEL. Only thing I can think of is that the code cleared after restart (so not a persistent code thus not emissions related) - fuel surge is possible, but it would throw a code, albeit maybe not a persistent one; would need to look that up. Anyway, it is fixed now he 😉
  4. @dakm - to your question: not getting into gear is not normal. Course of action: change gearbox oil. Otherwise have gear selector cables adjusted.
  5. It's soot mixed with water that's coming out when the exhaust is cold. The exhaust gases condensate, mix with the soot and it drips out. That doesn't cause any damage whatsoever. Decent sport cats even have a "vent hole" for the condensate run out the same way. That flex pipe however is prone to fail. I would suggest you take it to the dealer as under warranty and have them rectify the situation. Best case it is just the gasket between the Y-pipe and the aft exhaust section. Might be cracked, missing or been reused after an exhaust swap (never do that). "Worst" case it's indeed the flex section that failed and then you might need a nex Y-pipe or have an exhaust shop cut off the old section and weld on a new one. It won't harm anything however. My guess: flex pipe failed.
  6. Have a EU spec (LHD) car with alu footrest on the passenger side (passenger over here sits on the right hand side ;-)). Considering moving to a full carpet set. I know Imran is selling a LHD set, not sure they are different (I do think they are different in the footwell area?) - does anybody know what options are out there? - I've read using double sided tape... I do want things to be fully reversible without leaving any marks on the alu; any tips & tricks? Many thanks! Interior shot:
  7. There are others out there, but limited. The guys over at BR-Performance have mapped a few now. These are bespoke maps, so you can have everything done as long as the OEM T6 ECU supports the required changes. Over at BR Netherlands they recently mapped a V6 to a healthy 395bhp / 464Nm. There are also a few tuners in France able to work with the T6. Komotec isn't gonna do anything with "non-Komotec stuff" on your car.
  8. The stock engine has (IIRC) a 10.8:1 compression ratio. So running anything over 100 octane will actually make LESS power due to the slower burn. I see no benefit whatsoever over running good quality 98 RON as knock with 98 won't be an issue on our very conservatively tuned engines.
  9. Me likey a lot!
  10. @Ollie260 The 350 has a higher rev limit and has the supercharger spinning slower at all times compared to the Sport 380. As both are non-charged cooled and running the same supercharger, you will get more heat soak in the 380. Peak power in the 380 comes in at 100 rpm before it cuts ignition; on the 350 you'll have 200 rpm "bandwidth" making an easier run up through the gears whilst on it on track. (6800 vs 7200 is a lot) Jokke Vlo on here (he has moved on) did a nice write-up on his comparison between his old V6S and then his 380 Sport. In the end, he had the EX460 kit installed on the 380 (as he did on his V6 earlier) as the rev limit "thing" was really bothersome.
  11. For extended track use, a 350 might even be the better choice.
  12. The post cat O2 sensors are located BEFORE the third cat; so removing that one will never cause a check engine light.
  13. The real fun starts when you simply keep valve 2 in place electronically, but disconnect the vacuum and have it run through a separate valve you then switch from the cabin. Like I did. So you can have the car always loud or always quiet with the flick of a switch. Mind you, don't do this with the OEM back box, esp. not the +380 one (due to the very small pipe diameter for the "quiet" trajectory => lots of back pressure).
  14. When I replaced mine, it took me all in all 7 hours. Access from underneath is not sufficient so you need to remove the cover that sits behind the boot carpet, remove the upper engine trim etc, remove undertray, remove diffuser, remove back box, remove Y-pipe, remove both manifolds, add extensions on the O2 leads, replace all other stuff, add all new gaskets, have bolts stuck etc. I would say it's 4 hours MINIMUM.
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