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Zhastaph

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Everything posted by Zhastaph

  1. Worth whiping the sensor out and cleaning it under a tap, mine was all jammed up with what can best be described as lime-scaley sort of stuff
  2. I had to replace both gearbox mounts on mine as the metal sleave had completely torn itself out of it's rubber mount. It looked ok to the eye, but was reasonaly obvious if you prized/lifted the gearbox up whilst looking at. I was suffering from quite bad clutch at the time also, though I cant recall well enough now which I had decided probably came first {ie the judder or the torn mount}
  3. One of my top ball joints was knackered at 20 something thousand miles, the suspension is loaded in such a way that it's easy enough to disconnnect from the hub and get a better feel for it's condition - they should be so tight that you can 'sort of' move it about with your hand.
  4. Because of the amount jammed under the plenum and around the fuel rail I've seen the low tension wire to the coil packs get chaffed and grounded. A bit of insight: The Esprit uses wasted spark with each half of each coil pack feeding 2 cylinders, to all intense purposes when a spark is generated it starts at the ground of a spark plug, jumps the gap to the centre electrode to generate a spark, flies up the HT lead, through the coil pack, down the partner cylinder's HT lead jumping that gap to generate the second spark. So pretty much always if you lose a spark at a cylinder you will actually lose it at 2. Any one of the following will cause you to lose the spark in a cylinder; Spark plug, HT lead, Coil pack, Condition of the grounding between the coil back and the engine, LT cable to the coil pack or ECU The 2 things most likely to be effected by heat are the HT lead and the coil pack, as any cracks in these tend to expand with temperature and get worse, though it's also possible that a dry join on one of the coil pack tranny's in the ECU is likely to give similar results.
  5. The steam will be irrelevant unless you've got a loose radiator hose or something, and then she'd obviously be losing water ... The white residue and popping is possibly relevant and may be an indication that the left hand side cat has disintergrated, I think mine had destroyed 2 oem cats {same side} before it had done 20odd thousand miles, as Gunter says it's a bit young for that but certainly not impossible. With a blocked cat the car feels awful the more throttle you apply, with very light throttle it can almost feel fine but the harder you press the more strangled and less power you seem to get. It's easy to test for; start the car, rev it to about 2/3,000 rpm, then stick your hand against each pipe - if it's a blocked cat there's a very noticeable difference in the air flow.
  6. Hi Che, Your photo isn't completely clear, but the central splines on the 2 discs are meant to be different. The plate with the spline that potrudes out the most should be against the flywheel with the potruding part of the spline pointing towards the box - if you imagine that the input shaft is only 'so' long and that this plate is at the very end of the shaft and so the spline needs to be deeper in than the other plate. The other plate is mounted facing in the same direction, but in between the 2 pressure plates. But I have to say that; given that the release fork only releases the pressure on the spring, rather than directly moving the clutch plates, I'm not completely sure how fitting them wrong can result in a busted release fork. Also, you do realise that that's a paddle clutch? I'm not sure what they're like on an Esprit, but on most other cars they can be anywhere between stupidly fierce to plain undriveable. Edited to add: I've gone through some of my old photos from one of the many times it had been apart, I'm going to go completely against what everyone else is saying and say; flywheel | B A | centre plate | D C | Pressure Plate
  7. You'd think so wouldn't you ..... but when it comes to changing leads on the v8 nothing could be farther from the truth! I'd certainly echo the responses of those above, coil packs and leads would be chief suspect especially if either are the original fit. A misfire is generally felt as quite a noticeable sudden shudder through the vehicle whilst accelerating whereas; blocked cats, misfueling etc tends to be felt more like a resitance, as if someone is applying the brakes.
  8. Like Mark says it could be your release fork, you only need to lift upwards to release it and it will sort of flap about a bit when it's not engaged. How much is box stuck to the block? Does it sort of lift a way a bit, enough so that there's a small gap between the box and the engine? The first time I had to remove my box it was because the clutch was sortof seized, in fact the clutch plates had actually twisted themselves round on the spline of the input shaft - which also meant that the shaft couldn't be pulled out of the clutch plate. In order to remove the box I ended up dismantling the clutch assy in situ through the hole where the clutch fork sits.
  9. Have you/dealer checked the torque on the hub nut - it is meant to be a monster 200 ft/lb - also the nsr has an annoying habit of coming undone becuase it is a standard clockwise thread and the only thing securing the nut is a bit of nylok. When you changed the bearing did you change it all, including the pita to get off outermost race on the hub?
  10. Technically, but i think you'll find that too subjective to get a difinitave idea. Sure, if it's the worst case and it's full on seized I think it'll be pretty clear but anything in between will be hard to judge. I thought the 350 had an LSD as well? But yeah, unless you've had an LSD fitted you will have a standard open diff in which case turn one wheel will go straight through the box, when in gear with the clutch depressed should be relatively free, only marginally worse than when in neutral. I think how an LSD will act is dependant on the type, in my Beamer it's like trying to hand turn the wheel with the handbrake still on.
  11. Technically, but i think you'll find that too subjective to get a difinitave idea. Sure, if it's the worst case and it's full on seized I think it'll be pretty clear but anything in between will be hard to judge.
  12. If the clutch is full on seized then this will still affect your ability to change gear with the engine off - sounds crazy but you could try lifting one of the rear wheels of the gorund to allow some slack in the system and see what it's like then, perhaps with someone gently rotating it. There needs to be some play in the box for the dog teeth to rotate and engage into position, if the engine/clutch is gripping the input shaft and the rear wheels gripping the output shaft then there's no room for it to manauver into place. If the car stopped letting you put it in reverse 5 years ago, but would allow it with the engine off then I would suggest that the clutch has been dragging since that time. The reverse doesn't have a synchro like the other gears {although irc there is brake in the box to stop the shaft from as you engage reverse} if your clutch is dragging it's the reverse gear that is immediately noticeable. People seem to put up with poor gear selection on the Esprit because we're conditioned to think that way, but the reality is that the gear shift is not really any worse than any other conventional car. For a Gunter style experiment, you could remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing. Then remove the cover that the slave mounts to {3 bolts} this will allow you to access the release fork and with a torch see your 2 clutch plates. Now the crazy bit, if you took a scissor jack and placed it between the fork and crossmember that runs above the box. By winding the jack up you will be able to manually disengage the clutch, be v.careful because you could go too far - look at the plunger in the slave and gestimate how much travel you have. And don't be tempted to press the cluth pedal with the slave out, it needs the release fork to push back in and is easily damaged if you do that! In theory you should find with the clutch disengaged and the car in neautral that the you can relatively easily rotate the cluctch plates. They're both joined together on the input shaft that goes into the box, when in neutral there's little stopping them from rotating other than some bearing and a very small amount of friction with the clutch/preasure plates.
  13. My fuel guage used to show empty long before my fuel light would come on, I used to use the light to tell me when she needed filling and the guage as a rough idea how much was in there.
  14. It's a very clever bot trying to draw Google's attention to www.lo{XX}qu.com based on the 2 hyperlinks and the location of the pictures - scourge of the planet imo
  15. I had a missfire when warm up once due to a dodgy solder joint on one of the big trannys in the ECU.
  16. God, there's 2 of you! Cats falling to bits are quite common, especially the factory jobbies - but I think you'd get slightly different symptons, namely a very strangled car after about 4,500 rpm when it's trying to pump lots of gas whereas low down would be less of a problem. I think it's unlikely to be the boost solenoid, the boost solenoid pulses open and shut rapidly to enable the ECU to maintain the pressure it wants at the wastegate. If this was permanantly open, or there was a leak then the car would produce much higher than normal boost - to the degree where it could potentially damage the engine, but low down boost would be largely unaffected. Whereas if the boost solenoid was permanantly shut then the car would only make the boost as per the ratings of the springs in the wastegate about 5/6 psi off the top of my head. In theory it would still spin up just as quick{ish}, but would most likely feel a bit flat top end. I think for me the first place I'd check is the wastegate solenoids themselves, the factory one's do rust and fall to bits at which point they will flap around, low down your car will make no boost at all but may pick up as enough gas is being pushed through such that all of it cannot be blead off. Check for leaks around exhuast manifolds etc this will blead off exhaust gasses before they make it to the turbo, and will produce rattly sounds. I think after that I'd wait until you get your OBDII up and running, you'll have a much better idea of what's going on. Short of a failed turbo, i think you're probably going to be looking at a wonky sensor confusing the car - front O2 sensors, MAP sensor, coolant temp sensor or throttle position sensor. hope some of that helps.
  17. There's nothing on the engine that will make any difference to pressure in the clutch with the engine running or not. There's a master cylinder, some brake fluid and a slave cylinder. And it's not connected to anything electronic. === If you've already blead the system then problems getting into gear with the engine running are unlikely to be anything other than clutch plates seized on the spline of the primary shaft. This is very common on V8s, unfortunately, and can be as simple as requiring a clean and regrease, or as painful twisted/damaged clutch splines require a new clutch. Either way the box is going to need to be removed to inspect/repair.
  18. You could also check the pivots at the end of the radial arms, there's only 2 little bolts that hold the shims in. If one of these comes loose it can clonk, but only during a transition between accelerating and overrun, on bumpy roads you wouldn't notice a thing.
  19. I don't know why, but when i saw the attachement I was expecting it to be a sound file to help diagnose the problem i know a picture says a thousand words and all that ..... I don't know if this is similar but on mine when starting as soon as the engine had fired she used to sound like someone had just shaken a bag full of spanners, it did it every single start from the day I had her for 3 years. It never sounded especially 'right' though I've never heard anyone else's to compare against and the noise never changed in all that time.
  20. It's not a massive job getting at the clutch on a V8, off the top of my head; 1. remove exhaust 2. drain gearbox oil 3. Pop drive shafts 4. Remove cross member 5. remove gear linkages 6. unbolt gear box mounts and bolts connecting box to engine Then slide off the back. The box will need to be removed from the car, but once realeased is easily lifted out the top or dragged from underneath. Once you've done it once a single person can have the box out in about 2 hours
  21. There are 2 different types of pollution that vehicles put out, older cars release plenty of carbon monoxide and such like, when in high concentration, such as in a city, in can cause bad health as they're absorbed into the lungs and bloodstream. In 1992 {K reg} it was compulsory for Catalytic converters to be added to cars, these take the carbon monoxide and unburnt hrydrocarbons and convert them into much less harmful carbon dioxide and water. As for as concerns environmental impact, all cars release carbon dioxide, which is a result of taking carbon from the ground, burning it and pumping it back into the atmosphere as carbon dioxide - this is bad for the envirnoment for reasons I'm sure we all know, but is nonetheless harmless to breath in.
  22. If she's been misfiring, and you've just bought her - I wouldn't rule out the oil being having been left over from a previous compression test whereby perhaps low results were shown on that cylinder with oil having been poured in there to test to see if it's ring related. Like other say there's no danger whatsoever of it being from the head gasket is this is well below that point, but there is a round oil seal around each spark plug well in between the cam cover and the head, it's possible this has failed or wrongly fitted.
  23. Probably a bit late now if you've already bought a new sender, but when I first purchased my Esprit it was very much the same as you describe the previous owner commented especially on how small the fuel tank was and how often you have to fill it up. Well, being a disbelieving little so and so I looked a little further into it, determined that the pair of tanks hold somewhere around 70 litres and then decided to use the mileage guage to estimate how much fuel I had. You can then confirm this at each fill up, and adjust the number of miles next time around accordingly. After about a month or so i even saw the petrol light come on The thing I found is that gradually over time the fuel guage begin to adjust itself - I'm not sure whether this was something to do with the ECU seeing an extended range supplied from it, or just the fact that it's been used that way for so long that it had sort of gummed up or something. After this it became just strange in a similar vein to Joey's - I think they're all like that .....
  24. Not stateside, but I got mine from Marcus These one's aren't polished metal either, they're a sort of rubbery clear plasticy sort of thing. But, they've been on the car for 2 years and still look like new and really good
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