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Everything posted by Zhastaph

  1. As per title really, my left hand fuel tank is quite badly rusty and although not advanced enough yet that it is losing fuel it does smell very badly of petrol. Short of crying I don't really know what to do. I generally have done all work on the car myself, but from what I've read about removing these things it's going to be a nightmare. Does anyone know of any dealerships in the south of england that would do this? I see that if I was going to do this for myself then my biggest problem is going to be getting the thing in and out with the elbow for the cross over pipe still sttached to the tank and that some peeps have had tanks made especially that are easier to refitt back into the car. Does anyone know any more about this? Any help would be very gratefully appreciated
  2. That's the oil temp sender, made of wax it is It's a funny thread, an M12x1.5 - you can get wheel studs in this size that will plug the hole just nicely and the car wont give a stuff that the sender's not actually connected. This way you can still use the car until you organise a replacement.
  3. Yeah, what he said. You will also notice that the pulsing of the exhuast gases will feel noticebly slower and hotter from the pipe with the failed cat than from the other pipe.
  4. I wouldn't swear to this without double checking, but I'm pretty certain it in the V under the plenum towards the back. Which does make it a bit of a pain to get at. If you have an odb cable and some software it would be worth connecting this first which would isolate what the ECU thinks the temp is compared to the guage is actually showing.
  5. tbh that still kinda sticks with being HT leads or coil pack, they start that way but before long begin affecting the car whether hot or cold.
  6. I tend to agree with mike, because of the design of the cam cover I cant really see how oil can get into the spark plug wells, so i very much doubt it's of any concern. Another theory could be that perhaps someone did a compression test on it and tipped oil in there to test against a poor result?
  7. Yup, i'd agree coil packs or ht leads. One thing I would add is that i've had the same problems in the past with no error codes logged, i believe that it's only the US models that log stuff like this. === If you're planning on looking at it yourself what you need to do is remove both spark plug covers then with the engine running carefully remove each HT lead and lift it just far enough away from the spark plug so that you can hear it cracking. You will generally find that the cylinders that misfire also dont crack when there's a gap between the lead and plug - or sound audibly weaker. Also, because of the way the spark is generated you should find that misfiring cylinders will be in pairs rather than restricted to a single cylinder. Obviously try this first with the engine off to be sure you know what you're doing, and make sure you pull the lead by the rubber boot around it and not from the actually lead itself or you will risk damaging it. And make sure that when you refit them you press them down hard so that they give a click, else they may just be resting on the plug.
  8. Recently I've noticed my Esprit smells a little of petrol when I first get into it after it's been left standing over a weekend. The peculiar thing is is that it doesn't smell outside as you might expect if it was leaking or something. Does any one have any suggestions where to look pls?
  9. As far as I'm aware the v8 doesn't have an air flow meter.
  10. Just gonna throw mine in the ring I changed my clutch for the 3rd time {dont ask} a couple of months back and since then I've been suffering from Judder My symptons are 100% the same as Jeffs. I'm pretty sure the cause is one of 2 things, either; 1. I went a bit mad with the grease on the input shaft which has since spattered all over the clutch plates or 2. I forgot to tighten one of the gear box mounts I initially thought it was the grease as the previous 2 occasions I had put very little on and noticed that the shaft was very dry and gooey after inspection next time around. Also giving the clutch a bit of stick seems to sort it out for a while. Last weekend I noticed there's a lot of movement in one of the gearbox mounts. I noticed that the thread has stripped on the bolt so replaced it. Immediately after this it seemed as smooth as you like, but that only lasted a day or 2 i've since looked at it again and found that the metal centre has been pulled from the bush. I'm currently waiting for a new one to turn up and will let you know the result .....
  11. Just to throw another into the ring .... When I did mine, I turned my lights on, popped the bonnet, then found the trailing cable for each motor. There's a quick fit connector about 20cm from the motor, I unplugged this then turned the lights off. Et voila, no lights but still all nice and popped up. They sort themselves out quite happily when you plug them back in again
  12. From your description I don't think removing that hose is affecting your problem in the way you believe, pulling off a vacuum house will have the effect of drawing in more air thus raising the idle. After a short period the ECU will suss that this has happened and adjust the idle control valve duty accordingly. You should be able to confirm/deny this by watching your idle speed whilst you do this and see if that correlates with the vibration. Also, Does the car run normally? I assume that this is literally at idle only, and not during normal driving? With this in mind is it definately RPM related as opposed to load related? What does it idle at? They should be about 850/900 rpm And What about fast idle when it's cold {12/300 rpm} and does it do it then?
  13. I actually ended up grinding down the top spacer about a mm, it's all in and fine now though. I think we should compile a list of most shit jobs, give me a gearbox swap any day .......
  14. I've just sheered off my oil temp sender whilst doing an oil change - funny thing is, I know these things are fragile so was ever so careful, hey ho Does anyone know if these are a standard part I can get any place?
  15. I'm most of the way through replacing my alternator. The top bracket is a desperately tight fit, I'm unable to get it on - I've had enough for tonight. Tell me, those that have done theirs how did you get it on? There's very little to prize against in there, I'm considering refitting the drive belt to see if the tension on that is enough, I'm also thinking about sticking a jack under there if there's room.
  16. I don't know what spec Esprit you get in Norway but as far as I'm aware it's only the US cars that care whether the cats are there or not. Certainly the UK cars don't care.
  17. Yup, 20 miles a day and I wouldn't have it any other way. She needs the occasional thing replacing and tightening, but in 2.5 years has never once needed to be towed home
  18. Yeah but you need to leave the thing idling for a fair bit from cold to hot with and without air con otherwise it keeps cutting out at junctions and stuff.
  19. I can mostly confirm both of these. I changed my clutch again for the 3rd time recently, I've had clutch spline problems that I've now got to the bottom of. Anyway this time I put considerably more grease on the spline than i had on previous occasions, the manual indeed does say 'use sparingly' result was clutch judder which I've never had in the car since I've owned it. I believe that the grease has been spattered all over the plates I had an Impreza that used to suffer from clutch judder occasionally, I always found a full blown 'launch' would stop it for a few months. I've not wanted to do this with my Esprit, but every now and then I spend the journey to or from work puilling away in 2nd gear with a fair bit more revs than normal. The judder has gradually been going away and now is almost undectable. hth Col
  20. There's no need to undo that nut to remove the brake disk, so it's unlikely to have been caused by that. The rear nut on the left hand side of the car does tend to gradually loosen itself becuase Lotus used a standard clockwise thread and didn't bother with anything sensible to secure it like a stake nut. I make a point of checking that side on mine every few months or so.
  21. Hi chris, you don't actually say but this noise is it in unison with engine speed or road speed? If it is the latter than both my rear wheel bearings failed at around 30,000 miles producing exactly the symptons you describe. I've also noticed that the left hand rear hub nut has a habit of loosening itself as it is a standard clockwise thread held in place merely with a nylok - this too will cause the same 'ticking' noise.
  22. I would have thought the outside of the box would give a reasonble indication - if it's covered in grubby oily grime still then it hasn't been cleaned and the chances are it didn't get particularly hot. If it did get a bit too hot the only the only thing likely to warp as a result would be the bell which is easily changed over with another. The seals on he drive shaft are made of plastic and the rubber boots on the gear selector are ummm rubber, both of these would be damaged by heat before the box. it's worth engaging a gear on the unit and turning the input shaft by hand to ensure it turns nice and smooth, be aware there is naturally what feels like a bit of play in it if you wind it one way then the next.
  23. I've had her 2 years and put about 15,000 miles on it, she's someplace around 34,000 miles now I think. In that time she has never once properly let me down, like everyone's it always needs stuff doing, bits tightening, stuff replacing but at least nothing jumps up behind me and suprises me, noises gradually appear, things slowly get worse - then you fix them Personally I think it would be a shame to have car like that and not drive it always B) Thankyou, that actually sounds quite good I could have sworn I'd seen stories of removing engine mounts and lifting the engine a few inches
  24. Trouble is she's my daily driver, so I'd really like to make it a weekend swap
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