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Karl lambrechts

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About Karl lambrechts

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  • Birthday 13/07/1963

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    Lotus Esprit S4
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  1. The hand brake light comes up when the pressure in the accumulator is really low (that is while braking) below every acceptable level to be able to brake normally. It is somewhere mentioned in the manual, and I had it also. I changed the accumulator and everything works as it should. A second thing : after depressurizing, my pump runs 20-25 seconds before it switches off, not 4 seconds as you mentioned. These both aspects points out you need a new accumulator :-)
  2. Front or back? Fronts: I don't know the diameters any more, but the total surface of the 2 pistons on 1 side is exactly the same as the 1 in the toyota's caliper. And the center point of the pads is also on the same diameter. So changing only the fronts does not influence the balance (front-rear) while braking. Back: The diameter of the pistons in the Brembo's is considerably smaller than the original ones (bendix?). They are placed at a larger diameter: so that the braking torque ( braking force x radius) is the same. The braking torque of the Toyota+Bendix's and the Brembo's is the same, but the Brembo's have a much higher heat dissipation possibility, and have a larger surface (better cooling), so can be used more intensively. (This is basic sceince, despite what people tell, most of the time without thinking...)
  3. Hi, The Delco system brakes fine, but it has to be in good shape. When you see bubbles (very small, milky look) in the reservoir, the system is broken, and does not brake well, and the pedal pushes back. Your plates: (I went to see mine - S4) the order looks ok, I did not notice shims and they nicely touch. There are some towers used at the base, may be there are different lengths used to allign things (and may be different thicknesses are used on differente places? - Mixing up is possible?) I would add some spacers where the mounting is of the upper bracket... Good success!
  4. Hi Guys, Mine is a early S4. There is no fuse C2, instead it is fuse nr 33 under the front bulkhead. (It took me hours, spread over days, weeks, to find...)
  5. Hi Richard, Milky look = very small airbubbles. It can be that it happens with a lot of cars, but it is not normal: air in the high pressure side of the brake circuit is not ok 1/ for braking, and 2/ the humidity of the air will absorbed by the brake fluid. But it strenghten my idea that a lot of cars have this problem. Thanks for that info
  6. Hi Richard, There are several ways: 1/Push the brake pedal, and switch the contact on (that is the way to bleed the recirculation valves from the abs). You will feel the ABS test ( and bleeding) in the pedal. Do that 4-5 times and look into the reservoir: If you have a milky fluid, that are tiny air bubbles. 2/Just depressurize the accumulator, and look again in the reservoir. If you see a difference in colour between both reservoirs, that is suspicious.... 3/Bleed the rear brakes (1 is enough- I always take the left and push the pedal with a long stick), you will see passing an air bubble. Afterwards, the brakes feel different (better), the 'pushing back' of the brake pedal is less, and the rear brakes (and the servo of the brakes) are acting faster. ( Rear brakes and servo action are fed by the same valve in the main brake cylinder). Only this circuit is affected. I'am almost sure that cars where the brake pedal pushes clearly back are affected by this phenomena: the spool valve is very small, and to compress the air ( after the spool valve), it will take up to 3-6 sec before pressure is building up ( and before you get proper rear braking and servo action = the pushing back of the pedal) The number of presses does not change. Please , let me know what you see in the reservoir.
  7. Hi, After some years of intensive search, the system is not that odd anymore... :-) I hear the pump, it runs normal. Every 3(-4) presses of the brake pedal it switches on ( 3-5 is normal according the servica manual)- the accumulator is ca 2 years old- and even straight after the replacement I had the same thing. Pressure is ok, switch is ok. Really everything is ok (even with the diagnostics), except that after a while there is again air in the system. I checked the aeration (with rubber membrane) of the reservoir ( so there will be no underpressure) that is ok. A next test i will do is uncouple the high pressure side, and guide it with a transparent hose back to the reservoir: I expect to see very tiny bubbles. But a consideration is that they may be that small I cannot see them...)
  8. Hi guys, This problem is a hard one: already 4 years... I follow the bleeding procedure, and the car brakes perfectly. But after a while ( variable 1 week - 1 month), there is always air in the system, and also in the accumulator. I presume some air is sucked in by the brake pump. I tightened the clamps around the hose (reservoir-accumulator assembly) , later I replaced the hose , but the phenomena stays. I can only imagine something goes wrong in the pump. Any ideas? Any experience? Is a seal kit available for this pump? Where can I buy a complete pump? Brand? Thanks in advance.
  9. You can truly say (for heroes only): 'This is how a man buys his car.' :-)
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