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Karl lambrechts

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About Karl lambrechts

  • Rank
    L
  • Birthday 13/07/1963

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  • Name
    Lambrechts
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit S4
  • Location
    Lint-Belgium

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  1. And if you are interested to sell your broken Delco Moraine?, please message me. I still want to pay a fair amount , but let us be realistic, it is broken (master and/or pump)... .
  2. Sailorbob, Yes Indeed, I learned. If it is still ok after 4 months, (no air and good braking) than the bleeding and the system are ok. If after 4 weeks to 4 months there is again air in the system, the bleeding was ok, but the system (pump and/or master) sucks air somewhere. Take a look at the article and hope you recognise things. Feedback mostly welcomed.
  3. Hi Vanya, The foam has nothing to do with the pressure switch. If the pressure switch fails, the pump will run continuously, or not al all. In the last case you will have no foam, so I guess it is running all the time? I can get you a pressure switch replacement, but not very fast.
  4. Hi RS Blu, I saw a simular add some time ago, and decided nearly to buy, but did not. Luckely because they are different, the pushrod is different. ( I saw that also in the operation manual I bough last.) But the owners of Pontiac's, Cadillac's .... have the same problems as we, so if I run into a cheap (also broken) one, i'm willing to buy, just to have a closer look.( I presume they are cheaper than the Lotus version...). It is good to hear that your master is ca 10 years old. I believe, but it is hard to track, that the good working Delco Moraine's are the ones which were replaced... I think non of them reach the age of 20. My advice: replace the brake fluid as indicated by the manufacterer (3-4 years will do), and especially take care the system is properly bleeded, so no air is in the master. You can do a lot yourself, simply by depressurizing the system, and to flush the abs recirculation valves. When you depressurize, have a look into the reservoir: the amount of air is an indication how bad it is let us know with a picture To all who are going for a deletion of the Delco Moraine : i'm still interested to buy one!
  5. The low temperature bothered me also: so I covered 1 oil cooler with black tape. I now have a nice temperature of nearly 80°C (I never saw a higher temperature than 90°C - in an S4 is an oil temperature gauge), even during the long hot summer from last year. In winter I can even cover them both... Karl
  6. Hi Richard, i believe you mean that if you depressurize the system, the oil (and air) passe through the master, and also here flushes the air away. (indeed, not when it is already after the spool valve and in the brake lines.)
  7. Hi Erik, thanks, i'm looking forward. There are not that many systems available... As I see it there are 2 kinds of people: people with a large garage who keep all their old parts (yes,me ) and normal people, who throw away broken things :-). Neither of them have a system available...
  8. Partual solution for your Delco Moraine problem. This problem is found in SE, SE Highwing, S4, S4S, and GT3. An estimation is that approx 70% of the systems is not working correctly (poll Norwegian Lotus Forum). I'm sure most of you know the phenomena: the car brakes bad, the pedal pushes back while braking, and when you depressurize, and open the cover of the master cylinder, you will see an airy mixture of oil and air (photo ) Since I'm working already quite a time on the problem, here is what happens while you are braking (Sorry push the brake pedal ) Lot's of air get in the system, before and after the spool valve in the mastercylinder. When you push the pedal, the spool valve opens and oil (in the beginning just air!) starts flowing (for seconds!) to the rears and boost system. Only after seconds (while you are panicking because the car is not braking as you expect) , the system gets pressurized and finally your brakes and boost are coming up (the pedal pushes your foot back). Because you are nearly in a complete panic (the car in front is approaching really fast now), you push the brake pedal to your limits. But since the boost and the rears are coming up, and start doing their job, all wheels block. The ABS intervenes, and, in miliseconds, let out all the precious oil and builded up pressure : the compressed air expands very fast and helps pushing away the oil. Then everything starts over: again air flows through the spool valve..., it takes again seconds before you build up pressure, and again the ABS let out all the oil. You have no rear brakes... Positive point: while this is happening, you let out the air, and you are actually bleeding the brakesystem! (ok, not the right moment to do so...) But next time (if you are not crashed the first time), when you brake, your brakes may actually work! And if not, brake on a quite place up to intervention of the abs, and again, you let the air out of the system. So, to bleed the system before you go driving, do following: depressurize the system (push the brake pedal 40 times, contact off). Have a look into the brakesystem reservoir: when this is an airy mixture (photo), wait 15 minutes - you do not want this to be pumped back in your brake lines. Close the reservoir again(, or brake fluid will be spilled around). Switch on contact, and the pump will pump for ca 30 sec. Switch off contact, push brake pedal, switch contact on, and you will feel the brake pedal going down a little bit in 2 steps, switch contact off: you are bleeding the abs recirculation valves. Do this 3 times, and wait until the foam (see photo) in the reservoir has dissappaired. Switch on contact, let the pump run untill it switches off, and do this again 3 times. Your car should brake better... Better but not really good, because doing so, you do not bleed the brake lines, so there is still air in, but maybe the brakes will start after 1 second... You will also still feel the pedal pushing back. You can bleed the rear brake lines (rear left is enough, you do not need your wife, with a long stick you can push the pedal), and again your car will brake better. While doing this, keep an eye on the level in the reservoir. When it runs dry, take a day off to bleed the system properly. I'm working on the problem, without succes up to now, and whether I will be succesfull is still a doubt. I broke another precious master cylinder that I purchased: the parts are that fine and sensitive, the work cannot be done on a workbench, you do it at a desk, with magnifier and good lighting. It is a very complicated system. I'm in electronics (I studied car mechanics after that), I have very fine fingers, but while opening the master cylinder, they seemed like the hands of a giant. I damaged the pushrod, and after disassembly of a deeper inner part, some part (maybe a clip?) was lost in the system (i did not notice). Anyway, something blocks the moving parts from coming out for further analysis, but I do not see the blocking "thing", it is too deep in. So that is why i'm looking for another system...or 2 :-) (serious) Some people say the car brakes much better when the abs is disabled. That is true. Because after building up the pressure (after the seconds of panic), the abs will not intervene, and the system stays pressurised. It is tire consuming in the beginning ( blocking wheels, blue smoke,...), but you learn how to handle and prevent that. You can disable the ABS/solenoids by pulling the fuse. (Do not pull the pump fuse! Be sure.) The abs warning lamp will be on, but you can feel how the car drives and brakes without the abs, in an emergency situation. If satisfactory, you can replace the speedsensors in the wheels by a resistor: you fool the system, and the abs lamps stays off. I searched the world for somebody who could repair the system, but did not found. Both Lotus and Delco cannot or are not able to give any explication "When the systems were sold, we had not such a problem..." (Really? Yes really) Pressure switch problem: Solvable, but expensive. There are a few suppliers with 1 to 1 replacements, mostly found at Lotus dealers. ( ca 1000 Eur) But a far cheaper way (ca 500 Eur) and as good as is to solve this by replacing the whole pumpassembly, by a P38 Range Rover system. Pressure is almost the same (2-5% less - you do not feel the difference), you have to rewire the switch, and you have to made some new mechanical mountings, but it fits in the same place, and you can cover things with the same original cover. Take care you buy also the connectors of the pump and switch. You also need to buy a ca 30 cm long flexible brake line, with appropriate connections. This pump is noisier. But it is a more durable solution, since the accumulator and switch are easier and cheaper to get. But pay attention, the accumulator is larger, and there is the possibility of overflowing the brake fluid reservoir when you depressurize. After replacement of the system, before switching the contact on, just fill the reservoir slightly above the indicated original level. After the pump ran, the fluid will slightly below the original 'low' level. Contact Filip van Vracem (see FB or [email protected]) for a pump if you want a relaible source. I could lent one from him (thanks Filip). What goes wrong in the Delco Moraine brake system. That is not completely clear yet, but with the experience and research I did, I come to following theory. The shaft of the pump corrodes, but does not leak brakefluid. Instead, I presume it sucks small bubbles of air into the system, and pumps them to the mastercylinder. I connected a transparent hose, and at no load (so low pressure and high flow, fe after depressurizing), I noticed bubbles. I opened my pump and the corrosion is a fact: I reworked the shaft, and reworked the pump, but the Delco Moraine problem persisted. I believe the air in the system caused major wear in the Delco Moraine master cylinder: seals and metal parts are no longer immersed in oil. And surplus, because we know that air + water (in the air) + brake fluid + aluminium gives nasty corrosion, it will affect overal function. It is amazing how much air gets trapped in the mastercylinder! I expect to see a lot of damage. Even so, if the pump does not sucks air in, I expect damage: the system is difficult to bleed, and some air may remain in the system (even when the car is new). This small amount may cause problems, certainly when the brake fluid has not been replaced for years, which of course never happens... My brake fluid after I bought the car, (and it was a "really good mechanic" said the previous owner) I never went back to him. Anyway, since this is more water than oil, I can only imagine it speeds up corrosion. Some also claim that the hose between the reservoir and pump has some kind of defect. I pressurized the old hose, put it under vacuum for days, I could not find any leak or anomaly. Finally, I replaced it, but without any improvement. Evenso for the accumulator, I replaced it, but the problem stayed. Finally, I tried to buy a replacement systems, because the same systems were used in the American cars, Buick, chevrolet,... But no carbroker kept them, the systems were too old. Many people were already looking into this problem, and I read many times very positive news after a repair. Many, and also me, thaught at a certain moment to have found the solution. And indeed, after repairs ( attempt to repair...) the car brakes a lot better. During that enthousiasm, I also wrote FB posts with the good news. Thing is that after any attempt to repair, you end up with bleeding the system... Right, the car brakes as new, but the air creeps in again, and after 4 weeks- 4 months, you end up with the same bad brakes. But the post is still on the internet... To resume: The pump is affected by corrosion, and I expect that the master cylinder is also heavely affected, certainly when the phenomena is already there for a long time. Eventually the whole system will have to be overhauled or replaced. Since I did not found, in the world -and I did my best- somebody who can refurb the system, it seems that replacement is the only solution. More and more people do so because complete systems are available from people in this group. Not me, I want ABS on my car In the mean time, be carefull, we do not want Esprit's to crash. But if you do, sell me your obviously broken Delco Moraine , so i can analyse.
  9. Yes, indeed, but take care you pull the fuse of the abs/solenoids. Do not pull the fuse of the pump. You will get an orange abs warning lamp, but you get to know the feeling of a braking car
  10. Partual solution for your Delco Moraine problem(see lower) Hi all, I'm still looking for a broken (most are ) Delco Moraine mastercylinder (ABSIII) as found in SE Highwing, S4, S4S, and GT3. (and/or pumpassembly) An estimation is that approx 70% of the systems is not working correctly (poll Norwegian Lotus Forum), so I'm adressing myself especially to people who placed already an alternatif and wants to get rid of the bad memories... (I'm sure most of you know the phenomena: the car brakes bad, the pedal pushes back while braking, and when you depressurize, and open the cover, you will see an airy mixture of oil and air (photo 3) I do not want to take out mine, since my car would then be completely out of service and i have this opinion even stronger now, since a first attempt went wrong on a 2nd unit I was able to buy Yes, i also still suspect the pump, so I'm interested in both parts. I revised my pump: the shaft was corroded, and under no load (=low pressure, high flow), I saw small bubbles of air coming out (transparent hose). However after fixing that, the Delco Moraine problem persisted. My idea is that the air pumped in the master damages metal parts and seals since parts are moving without oil. It is impressive how much air is collected in the system!! Since I'm working already quite a time on the problem here is what happens while you are braking (Sorry push the brake pedal ) Lot's of air get in the system, before and after the spool valve in the mastercylinder. When you push the pedal, the spool valve opens and oil (in the beginning just air!) starts flowing (for seconds!) to the rears and boost system. Only after seconds (while you are panicking because the car is not braking as you expect) , the system gets pressurized and finally your brakes and boost are coming up (the pedal pushes your foot back). Because you are nearly in a complete panic (the car in front is approaching really fast now), you push the brake pedal to your limits. But since the boost and the rears are coming up, and start doing their job, all wheels block. The ABS intervenes, and, in miliseconds, let out all the precious oil and builded up pressure : the compressed air expands very fast and helps pushing away the oil. Then everything starts over: again air flows through the spool valve..., it takes again seconds before you build up pressure, and again the ABS let out all the oil. You have no rear brakes... Positive point: while this is happening, you let out the air, and you are actually bleeding the brakesystem! (ok, not the right moment to do so...) But next time (if you are not crashed the first time), when you brake, your brakes may actually work! And if not, brake on a quite place up to intervention of the abs, and again, you let the air out of the system. So, to bleed the system before you go driving, do following: depressurize the system (push the brake pedal 40 times, contact off). Have a look into the brakesystem reservoir: when this is an airy mixture (photo), wait 15 minutes - you do not want this back in your brake lines. Close the reservoir again(, or brake fluid will be spilled around). Switch on contact, and the pump will pump for ca 30 sec. Switch off contact, push brake pedal, swicht contact on, and you will feel the brake pedal going down, switch contact off: you are bleeding the abs recirculation valves. Do this 3 times, and wait until the foam (see photo) in the reservoir has dissappaired. Switch on contact, let the pump pump, and do this again 3 times. Your car should brake better... Better but not really good, because doing so, you do not bleed the brake lines, so there is still air in, but maybe the brakes will start after 1 second... You can bleed the rear brake lines, and again your car will brake better. While doing this, keep an eye on the level in the reservoir. When it runs dry, take a day off to bleed the system properly. I'm working on the problem, without succes up to now, and whether i will be succesfull is still a doubt. I broke another precious master cylinder that I purchased: the parts are that fine and sensitive, the work cannot be done on a workbench, you do it at a desk, with magnifier and good lighting. It is a very complicated system. I'm in electronics (I studied car mechanics after that), I have very fine fingers, but while opening the master cylinder, they seemed like the hands of a giant. I damaged the pushrod, and after disassembly of a part, maybe a circlips? was lost in the system (i did not notice). Anyway, something blocks the moving parts from further analysis, but I do not see the blocking "thing", it is too deep in. So that is why i'm looking for another system...or 2 :-) (serious) Some people say the car brakes much better when the abs is disabled. That is true! Because after building up the pressure (after the seconds of panic), the abs will not intervene, and the system stays pressurised. It is tire consuming in the beginning ( blocking wheels, blue smoke,...), but you learn how to handle and prevent that. As far as I can say, replacing the system by a system from Barry or Ian or..., is the best solution. I searched the world for somebody who could repair the system, but did not found. Both Lotus and Delco cannot or not able to give any explication "When the systems were sold, we had not such a problem"... Good luck and have fun with the Esprit!!! Let me know when you want to sell your system, see also my add in the buy/sell section (brakes)
  11. Hi all, I'm still looking for a broken (most are ) Delco Moraine mastercylinder (ABS III) as found in SE, SE Highwing, S4, S4S, and GT3. An estimation is that approx 70% of the systems is not working correctly (poll Norwegian Lotus Forum), so I'm adressing myself especially to people who placed already an alternatif (like the one from Barry or Ian), and wants to get rid of these bad memories... If you want to know whether your system has the problem: the car brakes bad, the pedal pushes back while braking, and when you depressurize, and open the cover, you will see an airy mixture of oil and air (photo 2) I do not want to take out mine, since my car would then be completely out of service and i have this opinion even stronger now, since a first attempt went wrong on a 2nd unit I was able to buy Yes, i also still suspect the pump. Wanted to pay a very reasonable price.
  12. The hand brake light comes up when the pressure in the accumulator is really low (that is while braking) below every acceptable level to be able to brake normally. It is somewhere mentioned in the manual, and I had it also. I changed the accumulator and everything works as it should. A second thing : after depressurizing, my pump runs 20-25 seconds before it switches off, not 4 seconds as you mentioned. These both aspects points out you need a new accumulator :-)
  13. Front or back? Fronts: I don't know the diameters any more, but the total surface of the 2 pistons on 1 side is exactly the same as the 1 in the toyota's caliper. And the center point of the pads is also on the same diameter. So changing only the fronts does not influence the balance (front-rear) while braking. Back: The diameter of the pistons in the Brembo's is considerably smaller than the original ones (bendix?). They are placed at a larger diameter: so that the braking torque ( braking force x radius) is the same. The braking torque of the Toyota+Bendix's and the Brembo's is the same, but the Brembo's have a much higher heat dissipation possibility, and have a larger surface (better cooling), so can be used more intensively. (This is basic sceince, despite what people tell, most of the time without thinking...)
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