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Karl lambrechts

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  1. Do you have ABS on your car '(with the Delco Moraine system)? Most probably this system fails, and changing to Brembo's front and/or rear, will not improve braking. I know, because I did... The diagnose is very simple: does your pedal pushes back, or if you depressurize, is there foam in the braking reservoir? If the answer on one of these questions is "yes", all costs and efforts will lead to nothing. Interesting to know is that the braking torque of the original Toyota fronts and original DBA rears is exactly the same as the Brembo's (as of the late S4) :The brake discs have a larger diameter, but the total surface of the brake cylinders is smaller, so that compensates. But the Brembo's are far better in dissipation, so you can brake more and longer before overheating will occur. And yes, they also look a lot better . The routing of the handbrake cables is not easy: when Brembo's are used, there is a pass through in the rear hub. It seems possible to route around, but it never will look nice. Besides, the DBA rears are not that bad: I did temperature tests and they become hardly warmer (+ 10%) than my fronts which are upgraded to Brembo's. The technology is also the same: both have a sliding caliper.
  2. And if you are interested to sell your broken Delco Moraine?, please message me. I still want to pay a fair amount , but let us be realistic, it is broken (master and/or pump)... .
  3. Sailorbob, Yes Indeed, I learned. If it is still ok after 4 months, (no air and good braking) than the bleeding and the system are ok. If after 4 weeks to 4 months there is again air in the system, the bleeding was ok, but the system (pump and/or master) sucks air somewhere. Take a look at the article and hope you recognise things. Feedback mostly welcomed.
  4. Hi Vanya, The foam has nothing to do with the pressure switch. If the pressure switch fails, the pump will run continuously, or not al all. In the last case you will have no foam, so I guess it is running all the time? I can get you a pressure switch replacement, but not very fast.
  5. Hi RS Blu, I saw a simular add some time ago, and decided nearly to buy, but did not. Luckely because they are different, the pushrod is different. ( I saw that also in the operation manual I bough last.) But the owners of Pontiac's, Cadillac's .... have the same problems as we, so if I run into a cheap (also broken) one, i'm willing to buy, just to have a closer look.( I presume they are cheaper than the Lotus version...). It is good to hear that your master is ca 10 years old. I believe, but it is hard to track, that the good working Delco Moraine's are the ones which were replaced... I think non of them reach the age of 20. My advice: replace the brake fluid as indicated by the manufacterer (3-4 years will do), and especially take care the system is properly bleeded, so no air is in the master. You can do a lot yourself, simply by depressurizing the system, and to flush the abs recirculation valves. When you depressurize, have a look into the reservoir: the amount of air is an indication how bad it is let us know with a picture To all who are going for a deletion of the Delco Moraine : i'm still interested to buy one!
  6. The low temperature bothered me also: so I covered 1 oil cooler with black tape. I now have a nice temperature of nearly 80°C (I never saw a higher temperature than 90°C - in an S4 is an oil temperature gauge), even during the long hot summer from last year. In winter I can even cover them both... Karl
  7. Hi Erik, thanks, i'm looking forward. There are not that many systems available... As I see it there are 2 kinds of people: people with a large garage who keep all their old parts (yes,me ) and normal people, who throw away broken things :-). Neither of them have a system available...
  8. Yes, indeed, but take care you pull the fuse of the abs/solenoids. Do not pull the fuse of the pump. You will get an orange abs warning lamp, but you get to know the feeling of a braking car
  9. Partual solution for your Delco Moraine problem(see lower) Hi all, I'm still looking for a broken (most are ) Delco Moraine mastercylinder (ABSIII) as found in SE Highwing, S4, S4S, and GT3. (and/or pumpassembly) An estimation is that approx 70% of the systems is not working correctly (poll Norwegian Lotus Forum), so I'm adressing myself especially to people who placed already an alternatif and wants to get rid of the bad memories... (I'm sure most of you know the phenomena: the car brakes bad, the pedal pushes back while braking, and when you depressurize, and open the cover, you will see an airy mixture of oil and air (photo 3) I do not want to take out mine, since my car would then be completely out of service and i have this opinion even stronger now, since a first attempt went wrong on a 2nd unit I was able to buy Yes, i also still suspect the pump, so I'm interested in both parts. I revised my pump: the shaft was corroded, and under no load (=low pressure, high flow), I saw small bubbles of air coming out (transparent hose). However after fixing that, the Delco Moraine problem persisted. My idea is that the air pumped in the master damages metal parts and seals since parts are moving without oil. It is impressive how much air is collected in the system!! Since I'm working already quite a time on the problem here is what happens while you are braking (Sorry push the brake pedal ) Lot's of air get in the system, before and after the spool valve in the mastercylinder. When you push the pedal, the spool valve opens and oil (in the beginning just air!) starts flowing (for seconds!) to the rears and boost system. Only after seconds (while you are panicking because the car is not braking as you expect) , the system gets pressurized and finally your brakes and boost are coming up (the pedal pushes your foot back). Because you are nearly in a complete panic (the car in front is approaching really fast now), you push the brake pedal to your limits. But since the boost and the rears are coming up, and start doing their job, all wheels block. The ABS intervenes, and, in miliseconds, let out all the precious oil and builded up pressure : the compressed air expands very fast and helps pushing away the oil. Then everything starts over: again air flows through the spool valve..., it takes again seconds before you build up pressure, and again the ABS let out all the oil. You have no rear brakes... Positive point: while this is happening, you let out the air, and you are actually bleeding the brakesystem! (ok, not the right moment to do so...) But next time (if you are not crashed the first time), when you brake, your brakes may actually work! And if not, brake on a quite place up to intervention of the abs, and again, you let the air out of the system. So, to bleed the system before you go driving, do following: depressurize the system (push the brake pedal 40 times, contact off). Have a look into the brakesystem reservoir: when this is an airy mixture (photo), wait 15 minutes - you do not want this back in your brake lines. Close the reservoir again(, or brake fluid will be spilled around). Switch on contact, and the pump will pump for ca 30 sec. Switch off contact, push brake pedal, swicht contact on, and you will feel the brake pedal going down, switch contact off: you are bleeding the abs recirculation valves. Do this 3 times, and wait until the foam (see photo) in the reservoir has dissappaired. Switch on contact, let the pump pump, and do this again 3 times. Your car should brake better... Better but not really good, because doing so, you do not bleed the brake lines, so there is still air in, but maybe the brakes will start after 1 second... You can bleed the rear brake lines, and again your car will brake better. While doing this, keep an eye on the level in the reservoir. When it runs dry, take a day off to bleed the system properly. I'm working on the problem, without succes up to now, and whether i will be succesfull is still a doubt. I broke another precious master cylinder that I purchased: the parts are that fine and sensitive, the work cannot be done on a workbench, you do it at a desk, with magnifier and good lighting. It is a very complicated system. I'm in electronics (I studied car mechanics after that), I have very fine fingers, but while opening the master cylinder, they seemed like the hands of a giant. I damaged the pushrod, and after disassembly of a part, maybe a circlips? was lost in the system (i did not notice). Anyway, something blocks the moving parts from further analysis, but I do not see the blocking "thing", it is too deep in. So that is why i'm looking for another system...or 2 :-) (serious) Some people say the car brakes much better when the abs is disabled. That is true! Because after building up the pressure (after the seconds of panic), the abs will not intervene, and the system stays pressurised. It is tire consuming in the beginning ( blocking wheels, blue smoke,...), but you learn how to handle and prevent that. As far as I can say, replacing the system by a system from Barry or Ian or..., is the best solution. I searched the world for somebody who could repair the system, but did not found. Both Lotus and Delco cannot or not able to give any explication "When the systems were sold, we had not such a problem"... Good luck and have fun with the Esprit!!! Let me know when you want to sell your system, see also my add in the buy/sell section (brakes)
  10. Hi all, I'm still looking for a broken (most are ) Delco Moraine mastercylinder (ABS III) as found in SE, SE Highwing, S4, S4S, and GT3. An estimation is that approx 70% of the systems is not working correctly (poll Norwegian Lotus Forum), so I'm adressing myself especially to people who placed already an alternatif (like the one from Barry or Ian), and wants to get rid of these bad memories... If you want to know whether your system has the problem: the car brakes bad, the pedal pushes back while braking, and when you depressurize, and open the cover, you will see an airy mixture of oil and air (photo 2) I do not want to take out mine, since my car would then be completely out of service and i have this opinion even stronger now, since a first attempt went wrong on a 2nd unit I was able to buy Yes, i also still suspect the pump. Wanted to pay a very reasonable price.
  11. The hand brake light comes up when the pressure in the accumulator is really low (that is while braking) below every acceptable level to be able to brake normally. It is somewhere mentioned in the manual, and I had it also. I changed the accumulator and everything works as it should. A second thing : after depressurizing, my pump runs 20-25 seconds before it switches off, not 4 seconds as you mentioned. These both aspects points out you need a new accumulator :-)
  12. Front or back? Fronts: I don't know the diameters any more, but the total surface of the 2 pistons on 1 side is exactly the same as the 1 in the toyota's caliper. And the center point of the pads is also on the same diameter. So changing only the fronts does not influence the balance (front-rear) while braking. Back: The diameter of the pistons in the Brembo's is considerably smaller than the original ones (bendix?). They are placed at a larger diameter: so that the braking torque ( braking force x radius) is the same. The braking torque of the Toyota+Bendix's and the Brembo's is the same, but the Brembo's have a much higher heat dissipation possibility, and have a larger surface (better cooling), so can be used more intensively. (This is basic sceince, despite what people tell, most of the time without thinking...)
  13. Hi, The Delco system brakes fine, but it has to be in good shape. When you see bubbles (very small, milky look) in the reservoir, the system is broken, and does not brake well, and the pedal pushes back. Your plates: (I went to see mine - S4) the order looks ok, I did not notice shims and they nicely touch. There are some towers used at the base, may be there are different lengths used to allign things (and may be different thicknesses are used on differente places? - Mixing up is possible?) I would add some spacers where the mounting is of the upper bracket... Good success!
  14. Hi Guys, Mine is a early S4. There is no fuse C2, instead it is fuse nr 33 under the front bulkhead. (It took me hours, spread over days, weeks, to find...)
  15. Hi Richard, Milky look = very small airbubbles. It can be that it happens with a lot of cars, but it is not normal: air in the high pressure side of the brake circuit is not ok 1/ for braking, and 2/ the humidity of the air will absorbed by the brake fluid. But it strenghten my idea that a lot of cars have this problem. Thanks for that info
  16. Hi Richard, There are several ways: 1/Push the brake pedal, and switch the contact on (that is the way to bleed the recirculation valves from the abs). You will feel the ABS test ( and bleeding) in the pedal. Do that 4-5 times and look into the reservoir: If you have a milky fluid, that are tiny air bubbles. 2/Just depressurize the accumulator, and look again in the reservoir. If you see a difference in colour between both reservoirs, that is suspicious.... 3/Bleed the rear brakes (1 is enough- I always take the left and push the pedal with a long stick), you will see passing an air bubble. Afterwards, the brakes feel different (better), the 'pushing back' of the brake pedal is less, and the rear brakes (and the servo of the brakes) are acting faster. ( Rear brakes and servo action are fed by the same valve in the main brake cylinder). Only this circuit is affected. I'am almost sure that cars where the brake pedal pushes clearly back are affected by this phenomena: the spool valve is very small, and to compress the air ( after the spool valve), it will take up to 3-6 sec before pressure is building up ( and before you get proper rear braking and servo action = the pushing back of the pedal) The number of presses does not change. Please , let me know what you see in the reservoir.
  17. Hi, After some years of intensive search, the system is not that odd anymore... :-) I hear the pump, it runs normal. Every 3(-4) presses of the brake pedal it switches on ( 3-5 is normal according the servica manual)- the accumulator is ca 2 years old- and even straight after the replacement I had the same thing. Pressure is ok, switch is ok. Really everything is ok (even with the diagnostics), except that after a while there is again air in the system. I checked the aeration (with rubber membrane) of the reservoir ( so there will be no underpressure) that is ok. A next test i will do is uncouple the high pressure side, and guide it with a transparent hose back to the reservoir: I expect to see very tiny bubbles. But a consideration is that they may be that small I cannot see them...)
  18. Hi guys, This problem is a hard one: already 4 years... I follow the bleeding procedure, and the car brakes perfectly. But after a while ( variable 1 week - 1 month), there is always air in the system, and also in the accumulator. I presume some air is sucked in by the brake pump. I tightened the clamps around the hose (reservoir-accumulator assembly) , later I replaced the hose , but the phenomena stays. I can only imagine something goes wrong in the pump. Any ideas? Any experience? Is a seal kit available for this pump? Where can I buy a complete pump? Brand? Thanks in advance.
  19. You can truly say (for heroes only): 'This is how a man buys his car.' :-)
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