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bullit

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  1. Glyn,

    when put new rings  (they are  round )  in new cilinders ( also round)  no problem,

    but when put on the cilinder head , the cilinders wil deformate a bit .(they are not round anymore)

    now the round (new)  rings must runing in  into the cilinder wals , (and also the wals  formate to the rings (visa versa)

    the result is a perfect  match  between  the rings and the cilinder wal ,   

    the case is running in wel, hopeful it is oil consumtion free.

    and take a lot off miles

    google the "abbott curve"

    also the ruf pixels are disapeard from the rings , and from the liners

     

    -------now you dismantle  the cilinder head, maintenance, and put the old stuf again into the used cilinders.

    put the cil.head back on,  and suprice the cilinder deform again , but just a bit else than before,

    the ring are smooth surfaced, the liners  are smooth  surfaced,  and the rings wil never run in,

    they wil not fill the unroundnes  of the liners , and result in oil consumption . if you  have luck , it 's ok.

    ( do you take the gamble?)

    ( it is for me dificult to write down  the hole case, i am not english )

     

    in the past,  the mini (blmc)  have a lot of problems  when skim the head and put it back on, even when the pistons are not removed, today the opel (vauxhall)  have the problem a lot.

    sietse

  2. not so important Travis.. the rings are moving al the time around...while engine running

    but for (between the ears ) I agree

     

    normally Glen,  you  renew used rings ,

    the rings are bed-in ( running in)  into the cylinders, and so are the cylinders  ( a bit )

     

    so if you use  used rings in used cylinders , you get oil consumption , they never running in again

    and if you use new rings, let the cylinders honing again, ( not  the normal way, because they are nikasil  they must "lapping" the cylinders )  if it is alusil  the honing work is different, then with nikasil)

     

    use cast iron rings, the running in time is short, as Travis mentioned the rings lotus used, are cast iron (they broke)                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

    if there is no other way  than use old rings,  use R.I.C. (running in compound) from BP,  to let them running in.

    greetings  sietse // holland

  3. hi,

    i put a gt28 twin ballbearing turbo on my 90se, produced my own translation between exhaust and turbo

    (see picture) 

    not the quick spoolup is the big case, but you have the full presure even at high revs.

    i use a normal cheep wastegate controler ( 20$) and get 1.2bar  al the time , blow-off valve on the intake pleanum .

    and its working awesome.

    post-16850-0-74442200-1414183615.jpg

    post-16850-0-23514800-1414183616.jpg

  4. what a long story....

     

    first, the most hobbyist do not have the equipment to measure  the guides, (only measure with two point bore gauge, and not with 3-point)

     

    second , I suppose there is no hobbyist that can place k-line guides, you need special

    equipment and a hand full off  k-line guides......(besides  i think +/- 7.13 mm is not common k-line size)

     

    be handsome,  take the head to a engine overhaul centre, they have the experience, and the stuff

    to  repair the head in no-time, while you have a lot work to lap or grind the valves and still it is not perfect

     

      

    sietse  // holland

    post-16850-0-46465100-1413880010.jpg

  5. on my 90SE

    latterly what is the (crank) case

    I've cleaned up the engine , inside and outside, 

    the engine is empty, re-joined  the crankcase halves, and measured....

     the main bearing OD bore diameter, normally it must be 67.704 to 67.715

    I measured up/down  lets say 67.74 to 67.75,mm 

    that is no problem, new bearings , 010 undersize, and we can calculate  the crankshaft grinding size

    but  measured left/right I've got  67.78 and 67.60 mm

    well the oversize  67.80 is no problem  , side play left/right is normally more than std

    and that is regulated by the bearing ( the bearing hole must be equal round) but it is no problem when it is  a

    bit out off the diameter.(left/right)

    I am a lot more concerned about the 67.60mm, that is more than the bearing oil clearance

    even when i remove the locating dowels, and put  steel rings (67.70mm) into the main bearings holes,(both ends) 

    still I have got more than 0.06 mm out off roundness main bearing holes...

    to much i think

    is that becomes after 250.000 km  of good use?
    well I suppose I have to skim the lower bearing case, and  line honing the hole crankcase.....
    wow what a tech talk........ 

    greetings  sietse // holland  ( not mentioned my langauge)

  6. hi,

    i changed the front to toyo proxes t1 205-55-15

    and rear to toyo proxes cf1 225-55-16

     

    smaller tire makes the car extreme better handling on the dutch roads 

     

    more grip (other materials) and mutch more better handling when you use heavy brake  
    and the wear is lower i think
    and last but not least , the price is a lot lower then the original tires
    (sorry for the language mistakes)
    .gr sietse
  7. Thanks for the peace of mind Travis.

     

     

    Sietse, the thought did cross my mind. Not sure if many others have changed to an electric pump. Would the flow rate and head match, plus it would have to handle the +80C temperature of the coolant which shouldn't be a problem?

     

    For now I'm happy refurbing the original pump, hopefully last another 100,000 miles.

     

    for usa V8 (chevy, ford) it is a exchange  item, remove the old pump, and bolt on the electric one..so far so good,

    what is the problem to get those pumps, bolt it on a "fake"engine plate, and put it somewere in de hose...(if there is place)

    sk

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