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Andyww

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  • Name
    Andy Warne
  • Car
    1982 Turbo Esprit, Autozam AZ-1
  • Location
    Wimbledon

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  1. I had kind of assumed that way back you had bled the rad, as someone did sugggest it, so that alone could have cured it. Vent pipe also would have caused an issue if misrouted. I would say a very good chance its all good now. Dont think the coolant concentration would be an issue.
  2. Its behind the fascia but that doesnt sound like the issue. If the diode were open circuit it would prevent fans being on when the compressor is on, only. Otter sw would still work. Does your car have the same two 4-fuse holders in the RH of the glovebox as UK cars (and maybe early US cars) have?
  3. If the gauge is off though the sender is the least likely cause, more likely is gauge or voltage reg. But yes, if the engine has been out, air lock is prime suspect of the issue.
  4. The gauge can be tested by removing the sender , connect earth to it and put in boiling water in a kettle and check the gauge reads 100. It is possible to recalibrate the gauge, I have done it, on the bench but its not worth doing lightly. If its still erratic after replacing the VR, its likely to be an air lock. They can be persistent. Or could be the thermostat as suggested, wax stats rarely last almost 40 years. Another thing to check is the small vent hose which comes off the large pipe next to the sender. Make sure its not blocked and has a run which doesnt dip right down before it reaches the header tank.
  5. Disclaimer: Dont know about USA cars but: Assuming the same as other, the rad fans come on when the AC compressor is on, via a diode controlling the fan relay. But thats not the issue you have. The power to the Otter switch comes from one of the fused circuits. The fuse is the same one as feeds the heater blower. Not sure though as I believe USA cars electrical system is substantially different.
  6. Yes thats right, when closed the water is diverted through a bypass route under the engine.
  7. Never got mine to open off the car using that method. It was Pete at PNM who said the whole thing needs to be in boiling water to open and mine did open using that method. I think there are different temp spec versions.
  8. Definitely get a solid state one. You can either make one using a suitable semiconductor voltage regulator or there are ready-made ones on Ebay. Its mounted to one of the instrument fixing nuts in the binnacle so you have to loosen the side panels, and move the main panel forwards to access it, going in through the right side. The earth to it must be good.
  9. The clutches are larger diameter on the Turbo so these will be different.
  10. Removing the thermostat should be a last resort, its a big task, but if you do, in order to test it you have to put the whole housing in a big pan of water and boil it up and wait a few mins. Even if its working properly it wont open if you simply pour hot water into it. Presumably you have bled the rad, it sounds like an air lock. The gauge can read high in this case as the sender can be out of the water flow so it is measuring the temperature of steam in the pipe instead. With the filler cap off try violently squeezing the left hand rad hose which can be reached through the LH wheelarch as this can sometimes dislodge air pockets and make a big glugging noise then you can top up. Jacking up the front or rear of the car can help also, and open rad bleed tap. If the air lock is really persistent it could be air getting into the system. These cars are unfortunately very prone to pinhole leaks in the cooling system if the aluminium pipes have not been checked/replaced. There are two versions of the Otter switch with different temperatures, manual covers these. but in normal driving the fans dont come on usually. Only when stuck in traffic, stationary. Infra red gauges dont indicate water temperature so I am not sure they are worth bothering with. Not sure why the gauge was reading 60 when sender in boiling water. Doesnt sound right but its wrong in the opposite way to expected. The gauges do go out of whack, even mounting the mechanical voltage regulator the wrong orientation can cause them to be 15 degrees out.
  11. It looks like he has done exactly the same as I did, with the BBS wheels which was satin-black them and then have the webbed faces milled flat then the whole wheel diamond cut.
  12. The ARB is the only thing preventing lower link front-back movement so it sounds like the ARB to link bushes, already mentioned or the nut on the end of the ARB has come loose. The service notes specifies a stupidly low torque for that nut, 6 lbft or something. If that is followed, it unwinds. It always seems to me that they made the spacer which fits inside the bushes too short. Using poly bushes and tightening up the nut tight, seems to compress the bushes too much until they are rock solid. I went back to rubber on mine.
  13. Its on the connection to the changeover relay. Should look like this.
  14. There is a differece in the current path when main/flash is being used vs dip, but cant see how that can cause cycling on one setting but not the other. Maybe the reason it does not happen on main beam is the voltage drop is higher on the battery so the motors are being less "driven". If thats the case it could be motor run-on. If either motor runs past the limit switch it will cause both to carry on running. Run on could be caused by two issues: The motor supplies are each earthed by a changeover relay when not running, which acts as a brake. If this is not happening it will cause this. Also the motors have end-float adjustment screws with locknuts on the end of the gear housing. If one of these has come unscrewed it will cause the braking effect to not work properly. Also has the system ever been rewired? If someone has wired it according to the Turbo Esprit wiring diagram in the service notes it wont work properly as there is an error in the diagram. In fact the results of the error would be pretty much what you are seeing.
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